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The lights are on 7:30 - 8:30 am (1 hour)
Then about 1:30pm till 10pm

This is not good. You want one continuous period of light (the "daylight") both for plants but especially for fish. Second, the duration is too long and bound to cause problem algae in time, as indeed it may have already. I would go down to an 8-hour continuous period, and after a couple weeks if algae increases, reduce another hour.

The continuous period can be any time, normally when you are most often hoe to enjoy the aquarium. Just make sure it is continuous, and there is ambient room light when the tank light comes on and goes off. This is critical to avoid shocking the fish. The aim is to provide light the plants can use, but no more. This is governed by the nutrient availability. The balance of the two if correct will thwart problem algae.
 
Ok, I wonā€™t put the light on in the morning before work, and then whenever I come home on my lunch (this can be between 12 and 3) I will put the light on, then turn it off 8 hours later.

Yes t thinking about it, it could be one of the cardianls I donā€™t know why I didnā€™t think of that.

Should I be worried finding 2 dead fish on the same day?
 
Ok, I wonā€™t put the light on in the morning before work, and then whenever I come home on my lunch (this can be between 12 and 3) I will put the light on, then turn it off 8 hours later.

Yes t thinking about it, it could be one of the cardianls I donā€™t know why I didnā€™t think of that.

Should I be worried finding 2 dead fish on the same day?

I would get a small timer, it is preferable. Fish have a circadian rhythm. More data here:

Fish do die sometimes, and rummynose is a very sensitive species. I would never guess at causes, but keep an eye on things.
 
Tank looks wonderful! And if my barnicleā€senses serve me right, you'll have @Fishmanic cruising along any moment to encourage you to enter it into a competition....šŸ‘€

Sorry about your 2 loses, it does happen unfortunately as others have already said. It's sad but don't be discouraged! Amend light situation as already discussed šŸ‘šŸ» I don't think that's the reason why they died but reducing as much possible stress won't hurt.

Algae...welcome to fishkeeping šŸ¤·ā€ā™€ļø I shall burst your bubble now and tell you quite frankly, if you're expecting an algae-free tank, keep dreaming šŸ˜‚ diatoms is completely normal and expected in the first stages of establishing a new tank, they have to run their course which can take a while. Keep on top of your maintenance and water changes, propagate your stem plants and don't over feed the fish and you'll soon find a balance. Having the lights on for a shorter duration as mentioned above will definitely help too.

All in all, a job well done!
 
Don't get Otos yet, wait a little while longer. I only say this because most of them are wild caught and they are difficult to feed....as in, they only want to eat the natural algae and biofilm in the tank. And because you have to keep them in a huge group, you need to make sure there's enough food available to sustain them. Someone may correct me if I'm wrong
 
Thanks @CaptainBarnicles haha yeh I may enter the tank competition.

Okay, shall I reduce the light Time down to 7 hours?
Yeh a little sad about the fish as I have tried my best for them, yeh I do expect the algae but what should I do about whatā€™s there? Should I clean all the glass on the inside? Isnā€™t that weā€™re the nitrates live that I built up?
 
Leave the lights for 8 hours but in one go rather than broken in two.

I don't see any algae from the photos, I believe it's there but its not in excess. You can clean glass before your next water change, Nitrates is what you want to remove out the water but I know what you meant, the nitrifying bacteria that converts ammonia etc...you're right, they do grow on the surfaces but they're also in the gravel, on the plants, in the filter etc. Cleaning the glass won't hurt so don't worry. You can either use a sponge designed for glass, a blade or a magnet cleaner. Be careful not to trap sand in between the glass and whatever you use to remove the algae because you might scratch the glass
 
I agree, 8 hoours may be fine, start there, and in one continuous period with a timer. This can also help control algae, using a timer.

As for the algae, there are two basic types, common green algae and "problem" algae. You cannot avoid the first, if the tank is healthy, as algae is part of the natural aquatic world. But the second you must control or it will decimate all the plants in time. I've no idea which you have here.
 
Even otos only eat certain types of algae, and there is usually nothing which eats problem algae,
 
Even otos only eat certain types of algae, and there is usually nothing which eats problem algae,
While I don't recommend getting fish specifically for algae control 3-4 panda garra will wipe out algae in a few days and are reported to even eat black beard algae. They are also VERY friendly and playful fish that will even attach to your hand.
 
What is the difference between algae and problem algae? @Byron

Yes itā€™s hard to see in the picture itā€™s like green spots that are starting to appear on the glass at the front. Iv also noticed that a few of the ornaments are getting a bit on them.

Is it best to clean the ornaments with a tooth brush ?

Panda Garra would the be suitable with the fish I already have @Essjay (including the cherry shrimps) they look nice @jaylach
 
What is the difference between algae and problem algae? @Byron

Yes itā€™s hard to see in the picture itā€™s like green spots that are starting to appear on the glass at the front. Iv also noticed that a few of the ornaments are getting a bit on them.

Is it best to clean the ornaments with a tooth brush ?

Panda Garra would the be suitable with the fish I already have @Essjay (including the cherry shrimps) they look nice @jaylach

First, on the garra...what fish do you or will you have in this tank? I get lost with 40 pages of posts. And garra are not suitable for every tank.

"Problem" algae is (I think) my term for the algae that can kill plants and for which almost nothing will eat it. So it is a matter of the aquarist establishing the light/nutrient balance to benefit plants but not algae. Black brush, which has more than one appearance, is probably the most common, judging by threads on TFF. All tanks have algae, it is part of a natural and beneficial biological system. The common green algae occurs on just about every surface, in the biofilm, and many fish graze through this. But problem algae when it appears on plant leaves must be thwarted or it will suffocate the leaves one by one.
 

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