New To Cichlids...help!

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Joey_Mic

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I am a 22 year old male from the Northwest who is seriously considering setting up an aquarium for Cichlids. Although, I am slightly concerned at the fact I know very little about them. They are truley amazing fish and I seem to favorite the brighter coulourd Cichlids. At first, I favoured marine fish, but after looking into Cichlids, this seems like a cheaper option, is this right? I would be very grateful if someone could answer the following questions:

Are some Cichlids easier to maintain than others? if so what ones?
Is there a standard price I should be looking to pay for each fish? if so what is it?
What size tank and equipmenmt would I require?

Thanks for your help :good:
 
I would help if i could Joey!

I am sure that someone will come along soon and help you.

I would advise not to rush out straight away and buy loads of equipment and fish without getting some advice here first.

Do you have a budget in mind? Space restrictions?

Well done coming to get some help in advance -

It sounds like you want a beginners guide to setting up a Cichlid tank -

Good Luck!! Keep us updated on your progress.
 
I am in exactly the same position (although unfortunatley no longer 22), and look foward to some responses to this. seen the osaka 260 which I hope will be a good home for them.
 
hullo,

1-Im not sure, with a bit of help and research I believe they are all as difficult/easy as each other.
2-Around 5 pounds a fish, for Mbuna and Utaka
3-As big as you can afford, and then a bit bigger!
Whatever size tank you buy in a month you will wish you had bought a larger one!

I only started fishkeeping a few months ago.

I have 5 tanks now!

I only started keeping Mbuna and Utaka 2 weeks ago.

Iam getting a bigger tank already!

I too was interested in Marine, but fell in love with cichlids.

I think the reason they are so interesting is partly because they are so aggressive, being full of spunk they possess a good deal of character.
For instance, with all my other fish, when one puts a hand in the tank the fish all swim away. But with my Malawis they swim towards my hand, inspect it, then see if they can bite a lump out of it!

doris
 
Oh and also OP don't forget-filtration, filtration, and filtration!

Ordinarily tanks get turned over 2 or 3 times an hour with the filter that tanks come with as standard, for instance, my rio 125l came with a filter capable of filtering 200 lph (litres per hour)

But as Mbuna tanks are often heavily stocked, to reduce aggression most sources reccomend at least 10x hourly turnover.

So when buying your kit get a filter that is rated around ten times the size of your tank.

And research aggression levels carefully.

doris
 
I am in exactly the same position (although unfortunatley no longer 22), and look foward to some responses to this. seen the osaka 260 which I hope will be a good home for them.


I just looked up the osaka 260, it comes with a fluval 305 external filter.

The 305 only pulls through 1000 lph, so your tank will only get turned over 4x an hour.

As I said to the OP higher levels of turn over are desirable.

doris
 
Im in the NW where bouts are you? Get as big a tank as you can get, like a 4ft or larger and there shouldnt be anything you cant have,

Im in Knowsley just outside of Liverpool!!! my main concern is what are the easiest to maintain? I understand that it is a big responsibility, but id like to start at the bottom so to speak!!..
Were about are you??
 
West Yorkshire

Unofrtunately due to my wife who 'likes' fish, but does not 'love' fish, I would be unable to get anything longer than 106cm (I have an alcove in living room which is the only place my wife will allow me to put a larger aquarium) :huh:
 
Im in the NW where bouts are you? Get as big a tank as you can get, like a 4ft or larger and there shouldnt be anything you cant have,


Im in Knowsley just outside of Liverpool!!! my main concern is what are the easiest to maintain? I understand that it is a big responsibility, but id like to start at the bottom so to speak!!..
Were about are you??
 
I have a little experience with a smaller aquarium, keeping platys mainly, but until a month ago, I did not use this forum and have alowed my water conditions to deteriate without understanding what was going on. Bought a better filter and API test kit, know a alot more than I used to and loving watching healthy fish again.

My plan is to upgrade my aqaurium next year and keep cichlids (they look great in my LFS), but feel I have much more to learn. Cichlids seem to be an agressive bunch and getting the right balance is essential - but I'm sure others on this forum will lend their expertise with this.
 
Right so when you go shopping on Friday - you need a 4 ft tank!

What filter does he need - and other stuff?

Help this boy out!!! His money is burning a hole in his pocket!!
 
If you are interested in the brightly colored cichlids, I'm guessing you would prefer mbuna (means rock-dwelling), one of 3 groups of cichlids from Lake Malawi, Africa.

There is a lot of research needed to successfully keep them, they aren't difficult in terms of feeding or water quality, but rather grouping species that are unlikely to destroy each other. :lol: They are quite aggressive and temperaments can range from mildly aggressive to unbelievably psychotic. And because of their temperament and preference of hard alkaline water, mbuna should only be kept with other mbuna with the exception of some catfish.

For the basic requirements:

Tank: Most mbuna species can be kept in a minimum 4ft tank, they are mostly bottom dwellers and while they generally average around 5 inches or less, they are very territorial and need plenty of space. A couple of species get a bit larger than average, notably Pseudotropheus acei & Pseudotropheus crabro which both reach around 7-8 inches and should really be kept in a 6ft tank.

Filtration: As a couple of people have said you will need higher than average filtration. Mbuna should be overstocked to cut down on aggression, this allows sub-dominate or weaker fish to get "lost in the crowd" thus confusing the dominate fish (usually a male) who will randomly chase anyone near by. :rolleyes: So, as a minimum you'll need a total tank turn over of 8-10 times. This can be achieved with a very large or multiple filters (should be the bulk of your turn over) and pumps/powerheads. You can go much higher with your turn over as well as long as none of the fish are getting blown around the tank. For example, I'll be setting up a new tank with a total turn over of around 25-30 times per hour! :hyper:

Substrate: Mbuna thrive in high PH (7.8+) and hard water, so substrates that will buffer your water are preferred, that is unless your tap water can be considered liquid rock. :lol: Mbuna love sand, they'll happily dig in it all day long and it's great fun to watch; for their buffering ability, aragonite or coral sand are tops. :good: You can find either in your LFS marine section, it does cost a bit more than play sand, but it's worth it.

Decor: As I said above, mbuna means rock-dwelling and that's exactly what they are. In the wild they live, eat and breed in rock piles, so your tank will need lots of rocks or other decor that will allow them to stake out territories. To help cut down on fights try to have multiple caves/crevices for each fish. For some inspiration check here: [URL="http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=169788"]http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=169788[/URL]

Compatibility: Here's where it gets tricky, it's always important to research any fish before you buy it, but it's doubly so with mbuna. The biggest problem new keepers have is putting together incompatible species in the wrong ratios. The vast majority of species should be kept in ratios of 1 male for every 3 females. There are some exceptions of course, Labidochromis caeruleus & Pseudotropheus acei are both mild enough that they can generally be kept with multiple males. On the other hand, those species with higher aggression levels should be kept with only 1 male per tank and 4-5 females (per species). And then there are some species that shouldn't be sold at all as they are notorious for killing their tankmates regardless of how carefully you stock it. Melanochromis auratus & Melanochromis chipokae should be avoided at all costs, in fact I don't recommend any of the Melanochromis species for beginner mbuna keepers. Metriaclima lombardoi, commonly called Kennyi, are also very aggressive though they can be kept in larger tanks with other aggressive species. And then there's Pseudotropheus demasoni, one of my personal favorites, they are the biggest exception to the 1m/3f ratio. They have such high conspecific aggression (aggressive towards their own species and those similar looking) that they should be kept singly or in groups of 12 or more. That said, they do ignore any species that doesn't look similar so they're still a good choice.

Have I overwhelmed you yet? :D

You will notice they I'm using scientific names, this is really important with mbuna, there are no real common names for them like say a neon tetra, each LFS can and will call them whatever they want and so when identifying them you should always use their proper name. Another thing that should be avoided is picking any fish from a Mixed African Tank, these often contain hybrids which should be avoided for two reasons. 1 there are so many hybrids on the market now that it is becoming difficult to find pure strains and 2 you don't know who the parents are, the cute little fishy you pick out could turn out to be a killing machine.

I generally recommend to new keepers to go to their LFS and write down all the names of the fish they like the look of, then research them here or here and then post on here for help with compatibility. Grouping mbuna is just as much an art as it is a science, research and experience will tell you what will work and what won't which is why asking other keepers is so important. There are a couple of guidelines to follow though, avoid keeping species that all look alike and try to keep those with similar temperaments.

Further Reading: I highly recommend reading the following, as I said research is key to a successful mbuna tank or any tank for that matter.
The Mbuna Aquarium
Feeding Mbuna
African Cichlids, multiple articles

Well, if you've gotten through all that and still have questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer. :good: -Dawn
 
If you are interested in the brightly colored cichlids, I'm guessing you would prefer mbuna (means rock-dwelling), one of 3 groups of cichlids from Lake Malawi, Africa.

There is a lot of research needed to successfully keep them, they aren't difficult in terms of feeding or water quality, but rather grouping species that are unlikely to destroy each other. :lol: They are quite aggressive and temperaments can range from mildly aggressive to unbelievably psychotic. And because of their temperament and preference of hard alkaline water, mbuna should only be kept with other mbuna with the exception of some catfish.

For the basic requirements:

Tank: Most mbuna species can be kept in a minimum 4ft tank, they are mostly bottom dwellers and while they generally average around 5 inches or less, they are very territorial and need plenty of space. A couple of species get a bit larger than average, notably Pseudotropheus acei & Pseudotropheus crabro which both reach around 7-8 inches and should really be kept in a 6ft tank.

Filtration: As a couple of people have said you will need higher than average filtration. Mbuna should be overstocked to cut down on aggression, this allows sub-dominate or weaker fish to get "lost in the crowd" thus confusing the dominate fish (usually a male) who will randomly chase anyone near by. :rolleyes: So, as a minimum you'll need a total tank turn over of 8-10 times. This can be achieved with a very large or multiple filters (should be the bulk of your turn over) and pumps/powerheads. You can go much higher with your turn over as well as long as none of the fish are getting blown around the tank. For example, I'll be setting up a new tank with a total turn over of around 25-30 times per hour! :hyper:

Substrate: Mbuna thrive in high PH (7.8+) and hard water, so substrates that will buffer your water are preferred, that is unless your tap water can be considered liquid rock. :lol: Mbuna love sand, they'll happily dig in it all day long and it's great fun to watch; for their buffering ability, aragonite or coral sand are tops. :good: You can find either in your LFS marine section, it does cost a bit more than play sand, but it's worth it.

Decor: As I said above, mbuna means rock-dwelling and that's exactly what they are. In the wild they live, eat and breed in rock piles, so your tank will need lots of rocks or other decor that will allow them to stake out territories. To help cut down on fights try to have multiple caves/crevices for each fish. For some inspiration check here: <a href="http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=169788" target="_blank">http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=169788</a>

Compatibility: Here's where it gets tricky, it's always important to research any fish before you buy it, but it's doubly so with mbuna. The biggest problem new keepers have is putting together incompatible species in the wrong ratios. The vast majority of species should be kept in ratios of 1 male for every 3 females. There are some exceptions of course, Labidochromis caeruleus & Pseudotropheus acei are both mild enough that they can generally be kept with multiple males. On the other hand, those species with higher aggression levels should be kept with only 1 male per tank and 4-5 females (per species). And then there are some species that shouldn't be sold at all as they are notorious for killing their tankmates regardless of how carefully you stock it. Melanochromis auratus & Melanochromis chipokae should be avoided at all costs, in fact I don't recommend any of the Melanochromis species for beginner mbuna keepers. Metriaclima lombardoi, commonly called Kennyi, are also very aggressive though they can be kept in larger tanks with other aggressive species. And then there's Pseudotropheus demasoni, one of my personal favorites, they are the biggest exception to the 1m/3f ratio. They have such high conspecific aggression (aggressive towards their own species and those similar looking) that they should be kept singly or in groups of 12 or more. That said, they do ignore any species that doesn't look similar so they're still a good choice.

Have I overwhelmed you yet? :D

You will notice they I'm using scientific names, this is really important with mbuna, there are no real common names for them like say a neon tetra, each LFS can and will call them whatever they want and so when identifying them you should always use their proper name. Another thing that should be avoided is picking any fish from a Mixed African Tank, these often contain hybrids which should be avoided for two reasons. 1 there are so many hybrids on the market now that it is becoming difficult to find pure strains and 2 you don't know who the parents are, the cute little fishy you pick out could turn out to be a killing machine.

I generally recommend to new keepers to go to their LFS and write down all the names of the fish they like the look of, then research them here or here and then post on here for help with compatibility. Grouping mbuna is just as much an art as it is a science, research and experience will tell you what will work and what won't which is why asking other keepers is so important. There are a couple of guidelines to follow though, avoid keeping species that all look alike and try to keep those with similar temperaments.

Further Reading: I highly recommend reading the following, as I said research is key to a successful mbuna tank or any tank for that matter.
The Mbuna Aquarium
Feeding Mbuna
African Cichlids, multiple articles

Well, if you've gotten through all that and still have questions, feel free to ask and I'll do my best to answer. :good: -Dawn

I know what Dawn has said seems a little bewildering, I too was jolly confused when I decided to keep mbuna and utaka.

The best bit of advice I can give, as a rift lake cichlid new boy, is read, read, and then read some more!

As dawn said you must get the hang of knowing your fish by latin names, and even then Iam afraid, be prepared for the fish you like to have 2, 3, or even 4 different latin names!

When I decided I wanted Lake malawi cichlids I must have spent 50 hours reading online before I even turned the tap on to fill my tank.

I know it sounds like hard work, but rift cichlids will provide so much joy when you get them it really is worth it.

doris
 
That's a great overview of africans cichlid keeping :good: I'm glad there are people like you who don't mind helping newbies like us :nod:
 

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