New Tank 200L (55Gal) Stocking?

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nick1986

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Hi
 
I'm not ready to start putting fish in but iv got a fluval roma 200 just about to start cycling the tank next week and wanted to know what fish and number of them.
 
I'm going to put 4 mail guppies and 7 female in from my old tank and one little sucker type thing dont know the name but its about 3 cm long and had him/her for about year now and not grown much at all.
 
only thing I do want in there is angle fish and few of those clown loach.
 
 thinking 10 x neon tetras but then I don't know what to go for.
 
any ideas I like vivid colours and bit of a glow.
 
don't want to spend loads on fish but don't mind if they are worth it. but cheap and cheerful is always good lol
fish.gif

 
 
 
 
Thanks
 
Nick
 
Unfortunately a 220 litre (= 52 gallon) tank is far too small for clown loach.  This is a shoaling fish, and as loaches are very social fish, the group should be five minimum or the weaker will be picked on.  They attain 8-12 inches.  Nothing less than a six-foot (five-foot is pushing things) tank.
 
Angelfish might or might not work.  This too is a shoaling fish, minimum five; any fewer and the dominant fish will harass the weaker to the point of death.  I don't know the tank dimensions, but it should be no less than 4 feet in length, and be deep (height) as this fish attains an 8-inch vertical fin span; I'm doubtful this will be the case.  But if you come across a bonded/mated pair, they would be OK.
 
Neons are not good choices with angelfish, as they are likely to be eaten.  If you like loaches, there are some more suitable species, such as Botia kubotai or Botia striata.  Again they need a group, but five or six minimum works well, and as these remain under five inches the space is adequate.  They do need lots of chunks of wood, to have hiding places, and tunnels to "play." 
 
Byron.
 
ok then tank is 55H x 100L x 40W cm don't think il get any clown loach then that's all id have in the tank. not sure on angle fish now think I could get away with 2 but id rather have a busy tank with lots of small fish darting around than just a few larger types floating about.  thinking about 6 silver sharks in there. and might get a Siamese fighter.  
 
nick1986 said:
ok then tank is 55H x 100L x 40W cm don't think il get any clown loach then that's all id have in the tank. not sure on angle fish now think I could get away with 2 but id rather have a busy tank with lots of small fish darting around than just a few larger types floating about.  thinking about 6 silver sharks in there. and might get a Siamese fighter.  
 
 
Goodness, no!  Silver sharks, aka bala sharks, can grow up to 16 inches long.  These are also shoaling species and shouldn't really be in the hobby at all, imho, but certainly not in a tank that isn't at least 8 feet long x 2 feet wide.   And Siamese fighters, aka bettas, are best in their own tank rather than in a community.  In a community there is the danger of them attacking the others, or the others attacking their long flowing fins.  They do best in low flow tanks and generally that's a bad idea in a large tank like that.   
 
Your best bet, should you really be looking for lots of 'little fish' darting around really depends on the water chemistry out of your tap.
 
 
 
 
Cheap and cheerful species of fish that are great to keep and always active:
 
 
Nice hardy fish for low pH, low hardness water:
Harlequin rasboras - as docile as they come, but quite lovely in their own right.  The males will get a nice reddish tint in addition to the black 'pork chop' shape on their back half.  These guys are slightly larger than their cousins the Hengeli or Espei rasboras, which are slightly more colorful yet smaller in stature.
Cardinal or Neon Tetras - when it comes to colorful tetras, you really will have a hard time beating these guys.  Not sure about pricing in the UK, but neons in the US are about $1-2 each, whereas the cardinals are $4-6 sometimes.
Corydoras species -  some are much more expensive than others.  Species like Peppered or Bronze are much cheaper than others.
Bolivian Rams - a bit pricier than some of the others, but still very hardy and lovely 'little' bottom dwellers.  1 would be a nice 'change up' in this set-up.
Apistogramma species - Prices will vary depending on your species choice, but these, like the Bolivian Rams would add a different 'accent' fish to the mix of tetras.  In this size tank a single male with 2-3 females would probably work best.  (Plenty of cover and decor are needed to break up the females' territories.  The male will take the whole tank as his territory, but the females will choose smaller sections.  A small cave for each (plus a few spares) would be a nice feature to add - half coconut shells work well as 'caves'.
 
 
Hardy fish for neutral to slightly alkaline water, medium to high hardness water:
Guppies - the colors never end on the males... lots of color options.
Platies - lots of color options here as well.
Pearl Gourami - my personal favorite gourami, fairly large, and moderately expensive.  A pair in that tank would really punch up the display.
 
 
Hardy fish for alkaline water, fairly high hardness water:
Mollies - some of the most active fish in the hobby... intense colorations in both males and females.  Very active, constantly grazing on everything.
Rainbowfish - the colors on these fish do honor to their name (though that's not where the name comes from) but they are active swimmers and great for high hardness, alkaline water.  These are pricier fish.
 
 
 
Honestly, there's lots of options for each water type.  The best success is had when you match your stock to your water, and you don't try to keep the wrong size fish (or too many) for the volume you have.
 
At risk of repeating myself (and others below), do not buy Clown Loaches, not even one (especially not one only). I have a six foot tank and worry constantly that I am not doing my best for the seven I have but having bought them in less enlightened times I do what I can.
 
A six foot tank with water and stand can weigh the best part of a tonne and is not something to consider lightly (not that you were, I'm just throwing it in).
 
Hi thanks for all your replys my tank is empty at the moment and all that's going in is the 11 guppies all about 4-5cm head to tail. still don't know what to put in lol less sure than before didn't know the silver sharks grew that large at all every one iv seen have been at max 10 cm long (~4inch) my water is fine here bob on 7ish every time iv tested it never needed to alter it in the last year. water hardness I'm not 100% on but all my tests think iv been lucky have been in the ideal range on the test kits.
 
il have a google at the fish you have suggested eaglesaquarium. but do like the look of those silver sharks are there any thing that looks like them that don't grow that large?
 
We (or you actually) need to find the GH (general hardness).  This impacts fish, even more than the pH (which is related).  You can or should be able to ascertain the GH from your municipal water authority, probably on their website.
 
In very general terms, there are soft water fish, and hard water fish, and then there are some that overlap a bit.  The level of hard minerals dissolved in the water is what determines the GH, and these minerals get inside the fish.  Soft water fish do not need them, so they cause trouble internally.  Hard water fish do need them, so the absence of the minerals in the water causes trouble internally.
 
The pH as I said is related to the GH, but provided it is stable and not extreme either way, most fish can manage.
 
Byron.
 
nick1986 said:
Hi thanks for all your replys my tank is empty at the moment and all that's going in is the 11 guppies all about 4-5cm head to tail. still don't know what to put in lol less sure than before didn't know the silver sharks grew that large at all every one iv seen have been at max 10 cm long (~4inch) my water is fine here bob on 7ish every time iv tested it never needed to alter it in the last year. water hardness I'm not 100% on but all my tests think iv been lucky have been in the ideal range on the test kits.
 
il have a google at the fish you have suggested eaglesaquarium. but do like the look of those silver sharks are there any thing that looks like them that don't grow that large?
 
They are handsome fish, and so much the shame for it... its their appearance as little fish that makes them so popular.  Nearly all of them die well before their time.  They don't get to realize their true potential, because most people don't realize what they grow into... and they are active swimmers in the wild.   They are like a freshwater version of tuna... shoaling fish, that swim very very fast.
 
I can't think of any that actually look quite like them.  Maybe Silver mollies... but not quite.
 
Hi been on my water suppliers website and put my post code in and it said it can go from very soft to moderately hard
 
this is what it said about the water.


Water source

The water supply to this area comes from the River Dee and from Lake Vyrnwy.

Water quality

The water supply to this area can vary in hardness from very soft to moderately hard. The supply is low in naturally occurring fluoride and is not artificially fluoridated. For further information see link on left "my drinking water quality".

Quality control

There are strict regulations to ensure that drinking water meets the standards required by European Union legislation. We monitor the quality of water as it leaves our treatment works and service reservoirs to make sure that standards are being met. We also measure the quality of water as it reaches our customers. The region we supply is divided into 226 Water Supply Zones. The water supplied to a zone is usually from one water treatment works or service reservoir. All the test results are summarised in the Drinking Water Register, which can be viewed by selecting the "View detailed report" button below.




Water quality details


Analysis

Typical Value

UK/EU limit

Units



Hardness Level Soft
Hardness Clarke 6.125 Clarke
Aluminium <5.99 200 µg Al/l
Calcium 28.1 mg Ca/l
Residual chlorine - Total 0.59 mg/l
Residual chlorine - Free 0.48 mg/l
Coliform bacteria 0 0 number/100ml
Colour 1.30 20 mg/l Pt/Co scale
Conductivity 270 2500 uS/cm at 20oC
Copper 0.0041 2 mg Cu/l
E.coli 0 0 number/100ml
Iron <9.51 200 µg Fe/l
Lead <0.344 10 µg Pb/l
Magnesium 4.26 mg Mg/l
Manganese <0.511 50 µg Mn/l
Nitrate 6.93 50 mg NO3/l
Sodium 17.7 200 mg Na/l


The report details drinking water quality for the last 12 months. The information is updated weekly
 
OK, as I convert it, 6.125 dClarke is equivalent to 87.5 ppm, which is equivalent to 4.8 dGH.  So this is soft water.
 
Considering fish now, forget the hard water species such as all livebearers, other Central American fish (the medium cichlids), rift lake cichlids, and a few others.  Many species of rainbowfish would have problems.
 
You are left with most of the fish originating from South America, SE Asia, and Central Africa.  Tetras, rasbora, danios, barbs, most catfish, dwarf cichlids, gourami.  In post #1 you mentioned neon tetras, and these would thrive in this water.  You also mentioned guppies, and while strictly speaking these are livebearers and thus should have moderately hard water, they do seem to manage in soft water these days, probably due in part to the generations of inbreeding which have weakened the fish in many ways but left them less fussy about water hardness, ironically.
 
Anyway, you have a wide range of fish options.
 
Byron.
 
I agree with Byron... and that would mean stocking fish like these:
 


Nice hardy fish for low pH, low hardness water:
Harlequin rasboras - as docile as they come, but quite lovely in their own right.  The males will get a nice reddish tint in addition to the black 'pork chop' shape on their back half.  These guys are slightly larger than their cousins the Hengeli or Espei rasboras, which are slightly more colorful yet smaller in stature.
Cardinal or Neon Tetras - when it comes to colorful tetras, you really will have a hard time beating these guys.  Not sure about pricing in the UK, but neons in the US are about $1-2 each, whereas the cardinals are $4-6 sometimes.
Corydoras species -  some are much more expensive than others.  Species like Peppered or Bronze are much cheaper than others.
Bolivian Rams - a bit pricier than some of the others, but still very hardy and lovely 'little' bottom dwellers.  1 would be a nice 'change up' in this set-up.
Apistogramma species - Prices will vary depending on your species choice, but these, like the Bolivian Rams would add a different 'accent' fish to the mix of tetras.  In this size tank a single male with 2-3 females would probably work best.  (Plenty of cover and decor are needed to break up the females' territories.  The male will take the whole tank as his territory, but the females will choose smaller sections.  A small cave for each (plus a few spares) would be a nice feature to add - half coconut shells work well as 'caves'.
 
had a look at the fish you said and do like the look of most of them. Would I be safe in thinking about 6 of each of them would be my limit for the tank or can I go for more or less of a species.
 
 
Most of the fish JD mentioned are shoaling fish.  This means the fish has evolved to require a largish group.  There can be specific reasons for this, depending upon species, but it is a definite fact that shoaling fish absolutely must be kept in a group, at least to start with, if they are to be in the best of health.  The number in the group sometimes depends upon the species, as some need more than others, but in general, the more the better.  So, while one may read "minimum six" or something, always keep in mind that when you have the space, more than six will be better for the fish.  This means better health, which means more natural behaviours, which means more interest and enjoyment for you when observing them.
 
In general, all characins (tetra, pencilfish, hatchetfish) are shoaling; most cyprinids (rasboras, danios, barbs, loaches) are shoaling; and many catfish (corydoras, etc) are shoaling.  With the sized tank you have, I would recommend around 9-12 of most of these, though again the species may warrant less or more.
 
like the look of ruby sharks say they grow to a max of 12cm about 5 inch would 4 be ok to keep in the tank?

http://www.aquaticst...Ruby-Shark.html
 
 
 
This is another "problem" fish.  The species is Epalzeorhynchos frenatus, and another common name is Rainbow Shark.  A shoaling fish technically, but here we have an example of a fish that within the confines of an aquarium does not have the expanse of its natural habitat, and it can change somewhat.  It is territorial and combative with its own species, and thus best kept in solitude (as they seem to live in their habitat). Young fish tend to be secretive, but as they mature some can become aggressive, especially with their own or similar species. This "shark" will get along with some of the loaches (Botia sp.) but other bottom fish should be avoided. Upper fish such as the medium barbs, rasbora and danios would be suitable, but tankmates need to be carefully chosen.  In other words, adding one of these to your tank might well create real trouble.  As often occurs with such fish, an individual in one situation may seem fine, but other individuals may be real terrors and kill other fish.  It is best to assume that the fish will be "normal," rather than risking it.
 
 
 
This is a fish that would work well in your sized tank, as a mated/bonded pair.  Males/females must select their mates, or trouble may ensue.  But the main issue here is temperature.  This species needs more warmth than many other tropical fishes, around 28C/80-82F minimum.  So finding tankmates must take this into account; some fish kept this warm will literally burn themselves out because the temperature of the water governs the physiological operation of fish.  Unlike mammals, they cannot regulate their internal workings when the water temperature lowers or falls outside their preference for a healthy life.
 
and the Cherry Barb
 
 
A nice peaceful shoaling fish, and one that will be best at more moderate temperatures for example, around 75-77F/24-25C.  A couple degrees may not look like much, but when it comes to the physiology of a fish, it is very important.
 
Byron.
 

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