you might call me crazy for doing this for fancy goldfish but maybe one day when I have a real job and am out of collage I can use it for SW.
Fail safe durso stand pipe:
Stops it from sucking in too much air and making noise. If the water is rising too fast (which it shouldn't unless there is a problem) the water covers the ends of the blue air tubes. The air tubes normally stop it from siphoning down water at a rate of 1500 GPH by allowing air in which breaks the siphon. However if the water rises too far the tubes get covered and the air is blocked. Thus it siphons really fast and flushes the box.
Bubble & Water Brake:
I call it the "splash box". 1.5" pipe enters the top of the 3" pipe. that pipe has holes in the sides. at the end there is a cap. the mixture of water and anti-spihone air smashes into that and slows down from its 3' fall. from there it goes down to a reduced 2" and then 1.5" pipe and ball valve (submerged). Extra air and water go out the 2" split which is not submerged. Any extra, extra air goes out the blue tube. It is much quieter than just letting a pipe dangle above the sump water surface and stops mostly all pressure from falling water. It also stops all the air bubbles rising up from making he top of the water look like a hot tub with the jets on.
Anti-siphon return pipe:
Air is let in the top and stops it form siphoning. Still needs a spray bar or something.
Algae scrubber:
This sheet of glass, which will soon have a rough plastic surface, will be blasted with 4 CFL (of 400w equivalence) lights through 0.5" of water. Thus a lot of light for a 19" X 12" area. it will get light for 18 hours a day while the main lights are off. Basically it will be a culturing spot for algae of all sorts. This well fed fast growing well light algae home will help turn NO3 and PO4? into something that is easily scraped off into the trash can every week. and out compete any algae growing anywhere else in the tank.
inspired by SantaMonica: http
/www.myfishtank.net/forum/saltwater-...emover-diy.html
Fail safe durso stand pipe:
Stops it from sucking in too much air and making noise. If the water is rising too fast (which it shouldn't unless there is a problem) the water covers the ends of the blue air tubes. The air tubes normally stop it from siphoning down water at a rate of 1500 GPH by allowing air in which breaks the siphon. However if the water rises too far the tubes get covered and the air is blocked. Thus it siphons really fast and flushes the box.
Bubble & Water Brake:
I call it the "splash box". 1.5" pipe enters the top of the 3" pipe. that pipe has holes in the sides. at the end there is a cap. the mixture of water and anti-spihone air smashes into that and slows down from its 3' fall. from there it goes down to a reduced 2" and then 1.5" pipe and ball valve (submerged). Extra air and water go out the 2" split which is not submerged. Any extra, extra air goes out the blue tube. It is much quieter than just letting a pipe dangle above the sump water surface and stops mostly all pressure from falling water. It also stops all the air bubbles rising up from making he top of the water look like a hot tub with the jets on.
Anti-siphon return pipe:
Air is let in the top and stops it form siphoning. Still needs a spray bar or something.
Algae scrubber:
This sheet of glass, which will soon have a rough plastic surface, will be blasted with 4 CFL (of 400w equivalence) lights through 0.5" of water. Thus a lot of light for a 19" X 12" area. it will get light for 18 hours a day while the main lights are off. Basically it will be a culturing spot for algae of all sorts. This well fed fast growing well light algae home will help turn NO3 and PO4? into something that is easily scraped off into the trash can every week. and out compete any algae growing anywhere else in the tank.
inspired by SantaMonica: http
/www.myfishtank.net/forum/saltwater-...emover-diy.html
