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Do you put a dechlorinator into the water when you do a water change? Tap water has heavy metals, chlorine and chloramine in it which are toxic to fish and the bacteria in your filter: a good water conditioner like Seachem Prime or Stress Coat will detoxify the heavy metals and remove the chlorine/chloramine so that it doesn't harm your fish.

Good that you don't replace the filter media - you should continue to just clean it in old fish water :good:

About the pH - I had a similar question when I joined the forum 2 years ago. Is it my pH that's killing the fish. Answer, maybe, but the likelihood is that the pH being low is indiciative of a different issue: usually OTS or low KH, or both. Basically, nitrate is acidic. Your tap water has minerals in it which bind with the acidic organic substances, but if there is low mineral content (soft water) then that buffering capacity runs out quicker than if you have high mineral content (hard water). So if your pH is dropping very low very quick it is often a side effect of having soft water (I have soft water, as do quite a few forum members). The way to help it is to do weekly water changes and make them larger rather than smaller. So I do 50% a week rather than 25-30% a week which I might do if I lived in a harder water area. This is where OTS (old tank syndrome) comes in. If you don't do the water changes, your organic substance levels rise, pH drops...etc. Now I'm not saying that you've obviously not done water changes for several months, but I do think that perhaps monthly water changes are insufficient in your case.

If I were in your position (which I was, a couple of years back) I would do more frequent water changes at first: spend a month doing weekly water changes and see how your test readings come back. I would also buy fewer fish at a time (ie, about 6 at a time), and acclimate them by drip syphon over the course of 2-3 hours.

(Ps. actually pH 5 is not a problem for tetras/angels etc which come from south america, as the water there can naturally be as low as pH 4. However, it could be a problem for the livebearers, as you said, I think they prefer harder, more alkaline water.)
 
+1 to coldcazzie, think she summed it up fairly well :good:
 
OP= original poster?

i usually leave the fish in the bags for 20-30 mins submerged in the tank water for the temperature to sync, but haven't thought about the actual water itself.


Thanks coldcazzie, a few things there for me to try.
 


hm, u should do a 25% water change weekly,with a gravel vacumee. if u do this weekly the water level with be better and the water cleaner more regualy, and the fish become used to rutine. 80% water change is not a good idea. :/

and add the correct amount of tap water conditioner to the new water.
Dont over feed. ever.
have some bottom feeders. and algee eaters.
and 1 to two days later check your PH balence. change your carbon when it is looking bad.



new fish:
leave in there bags intop of the tank for 20 to 40 mins. add fish into tank at seperate time e.g one sort fish within 20 mins then next sort in ten min after. and follows caulculate accouring to how many new fish you have. also try to introduce new fish over a few days not just all in one day :)

have a lot of hiding places for new fish, if the fish are quiet stressed, turn of light for a while. also add stress coat to tank.


also check them out at the pet store for any imperfections. and disease, check all the tanks there, tropical and marine, to see how well the keep there fish. make sure the put a stress coat into your fish bag when u leave with ur new fish.

When introducing new fish, best to put them in a smaller tank and do a course of multicure in the smaller tank. it aids in helping in white spot, velvet disease and fungal things. before adding into ur tank. :) prevention is the best cure :) give them the best chance :)



also best to do ur water change a few days before adding new fish, then u wont have to disturb them again untill, a week later when they are setttled :)
 

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