Need Advise

[erk628]

Hello everyone, I have a few questions. I had two black finned sharks (catfish), when I bought them I thought they were freshwater because thats what they were being sold as and no one told be differently, then CFC informed me they were brackish fish. I had one for about two weeks he died tonight. I still have another one that I've had for about one week is is a lot smaller them the one that died. Right now I'm taking care of a ick problem the catfish is covered. I've been treating it now for three days. Also I made a mistake and changes from gravel to sand to soon so I'm dealing with a nitrite probelm which is 1pmm. So I do 10% water changes every day which might be weaking my meds. However there not falling off and I have had my water set at 86 F for the past 3 to 4 days. Anyways after my one died tonight I got a 10gallon tank out and set it up and started the cycle now. I'm going to make the 10 gallon a brackish tank for the catfish. I know this won't be a big enought tank for long but right now he's only about 3 ichs so it will be fine for now until I get a bigger one which I will be very soon. Now the thing is I want to move him to the brackish tank as soon as possible so he doesn't die like the other one did. I need some advise how I can speed the cycle up very fast. I was told about Bio-Spira, I read about this product and it says in a new tank you can add this and 24 hours later you can add fish. Now I would just do a regualr cycle but seeing how I need to get this fish in this tank as soon as possible I'm thinking of using Bio-Spira. What do you guys think? Also seeing how this cat was in frestwarer at the pet store and here how high of salt content should I start off with him. I read the pinned form by CFC about how to introduce them to it, but I'm not to sure how much salt to add for him like I said he is about 3 inchs if that.

 

[nmonks]

I had two black finned sharks (catfish), when I bought them I thought they were freshwater because thats what they were being sold as and no one told be differently, then CFC informed me they were brackish fish.

Which they are. From what I can establish, these species swims up and down estuaries between freshwater and the sea for its entire life. So while the exact salinity isn't important, they can't safely be kept in freshwater indefinitely.

I had one for about two weeks he died tonight. I still have another one that I've had for about one week is is a lot smaller them the one that died. Right now I'm taking care of a ick problem the catfish is covered.

This suggests your salinity is too low. At SG 1.005, whitespot is rare, and above SG 1.010, virtually non-existent.

Also I made a mistake and changes from gravel to sand to soon so I'm dealing with a nitrite probelm which is 1pmm.

Unless you had an undergravel filter, changing the substrate shouldn't have any effect on water quality. Your nitrite is coming from something else -- too small a filter, or the biological filter isn't mature yet. Either way, cut back on the food and consider what might be the problem.

So I do 10% water changes every day which might be weaking my meds. However there not falling off and I have had my water set at 86 F for the past 3 to 4 days.

Make sure you have no carbon in the filter. Medication will not work if there is carbon in the filter. By far the commonest reason people find medications don't work as they should is because they have used carbon in the filter. There are almost no reasons to ever use carbon; it is sold primarily as a way to trick inexperienced aquarists out of money.

Anyways after my one died tonight I got a 10 gallon tank out and set it up and started the cycle now. I'm going to make the 10 gallon a brackish tank for the catfish.

Putting aside the fact the tank is far too small, why do you think this will help? Taking a stressed fish from a tank with nitrite problems and sticking into an even smaller, completely immature aquarium will likely kill it. When tanks have problems, one of the most important things to do is step back and think about what's going wrong. Knee-jerk responses often cause more harm than good. Brackish water fish don't die because of lack of salt. You have months if not years of breathing space. Sure, they won't be happy, and yes, they may develop problems like fungus, but compared with nitrite and ammonium poisoning, these are easy to deal with. Keep the shark cat where he is, and try and fix the filtration. Then worry about the salinity.

I need some advise how I can speed the cycle up very fast. I was told about Bio-Spira, I read about this product and it says in a new tank you can add this and 24 hours later you can add fish.

I have no experience of this stuff. But why not use it on the big aquarium? Once this tank is stable, you can then gradually raise the salinity over a few weeks to SG 1.005. That will be fine for anything up to a year. Once you're there, you can gradually raise the SG to 1.010 over a few months, and that will be fine for permanent maintenance.

One other thing: a single shark cat is an unhappy shark cat. These fish are intensely social. Ask around or read some of the other posts about these fish. The more catfish in the group, they happier they are. They're worth the extra care because of how beautiful they are and also their very sweet temperaments. These fish are a dream to mix with other large community species like monos and cats. If they can't swallow it whole, they'll ignore it. Even large sailfin mollies are safe.

Cheers,

Neale

 

[erk628]

I had two black finned sharks (catfish), when I bought them I thought they were freshwater because thats what they were being sold as and no one told be differently, then CFC informed me they were brackish fish.

Which they are. From what I can establish, these species swims up and down estuaries between freshwater and the sea for its entire life. So while the exact salinity isn't important, they can't safely be kept in freshwater indefinitely.

I had one for about two weeks he died tonight. I still have another one that I've had for about one week is is a lot smaller them the one that died. Right now I'm taking care of a ick problem the catfish is covered.

This suggests your salinity is too low. At SG 1.005, whitespot is rare, and above SG 1.010, virtually non-existent.

Also I made a mistake and changes from gravel to sand to soon so I'm dealing with a nitrite probelm which is 1pmm.

Unless you had an undergravel filter, changing the substrate shouldn't have any effect on water quality. Your nitrite is coming from something else -- too small a filter, or the biological filter isn't mature yet. Either way, cut back on the food and consider what might be the problem.

So I do 10% water changes every day which might be weaking my meds. However there not falling off and I have had my water set at 86 F for the past 3 to 4 days.

Make sure you have no carbon in the filter. Medication will not work if there is carbon in the filter. By far the commonest reason people find medications don't work as they should is because they have used carbon in the filter. There are almost no reasons to ever use carbon; it is sold primarily as a way to trick inexperienced aquarists out of money.

Anyways after my one died tonight I got a 10 gallon tank out and set it up and started the cycle now. I'm going to make the 10 gallon a brackish tank for the catfish.

Putting aside the fact the tank is far too small, why do you think this will help? Taking a stressed fish from a tank with nitrite problems and sticking into an even smaller, completely immature aquarium will likely kill it. When tanks have problems, one of the most important things to do is step back and think about what's going wrong. Knee-jerk responses often cause more harm than good. Brackish water fish don't die because of lack of salt. You have months if not years of breathing space. Sure, they won't be happy, and yes, they may develop problems like fungus, but compared with nitrite and ammonium poisoning, these are easy to deal with. Keep the shark cat where he is, and try and fix the filtration. Then worry about the salinity.

I need some advise how I can speed the cycle up very fast. I was told about Bio-Spira, I read about this product and it says in a new tank you can add this and 24 hours later you can add fish.

I have no experience of this stuff. But why not use it on the big aquarium? Once this tank is stable, you can then gradually raise the salinity over a few weeks to SG 1.005. That will be fine for anything up to a year. Once you're there, you can gradually raise the SG to 1.010 over a few months, and that will be fine for permanent maintenance.

One other thing: a single shark cat is an unhappy shark cat. These fish are intensely social. Ask around or read some of the other posts about these fish. The more catfish in the group, they happier they are. They're worth the extra care because of how beautiful they are and also their very sweet temperaments. These fish are a dream to mix with other large community species like monos and cats. If they can't swallow it whole, they'll ignore it. Even large sailfin mollies are safe.

Cheers,

Neale

I guess I didn't explains myself very well, so let me try again. First off this catfish is not the only fish that I have in my tank, like I said it is a freshwater tank. Most of the fish that I have in there can not stand salt at all. The catfish is the only true brackish fish that I have. My flitertrations is not to small, I an running two filters at a total of 600 gph. Next thing is I have only had my tank set up for about 2 months before I took the gravel our my water readings were always right on. A few days after I took the gravel out my nitrite and ammonnia went to 1PMM. Meaning taking out the gravel (to early) took to much bacteria out and really the only bacteria that was left was in my filters. So bascially my tank started a mini-cycle. My ammonia has dropped back to 0 and has been that way for a few days now. My nitrite has finnaly statred to go down as of last night. With the carbon yes it is out and had been, also its not totally usless, the best time to use it is when your done using meds to take it out of the water. As for the 10 gallon if I bought the BIO-Spira and put it in 24 hours later the tank would be mature. As for the size of the tank seing how the fish isn't even 3 inchs a 10 gallon would be fine for a few weeks. As I mentioned above the 55 contains no salt thats the reason for the ten gallon. I was told by CFC to get him in a brackish envirement as soon as possible so thats what I'm trying to do.

One other thing I have had a total of 3 black finned sharks and lost two within the last few weeks. All my other fish are doing great. This makes me think it has to do with the fact that there is no salt in the tank. The two that dies were of the same size. The one that is still alive is much smaller then those that died.

 

[nmonks]

I guess I didn't explains myself very well, so let me try again. First off this catfish is not the only fish that I have in my tank, like I said it is a freshwater tank. Most of the fish that I have in there can not stand salt at all. The catfish is the only true brackish fish that I have.

Then take the shark catfish back. There's nothing wrong about admitting you bought a fish you can't care for. We've all done it at some point. A shark catfish needs [a] companions, brackish water, and [c] a good deal of space. It will grow to around 15 cm within the first year, if not more. So you may as well plan ahead.

Next thing is I have only had my tank set up for about 2 months before I took the gravel our my water readings were always right on. A few days after I took the gravel out my nitrite and ammonnia went to 1PMM.

Not debating your nitrites and ammonium results, but these were not because you changed the substrate *unless you had an undergravel filter*. The amount of biological filtration (i.e., bacteria) that occurs on sand/gravel just sitting at the bottom of the tank is trivially small. That's why undergravel filters need to have the water pumped through them: without the flow of water, the gravel contributes virtually nothing to water quality.

Meaning taking out the gravel (to early) took to much bacteria out and really the only bacteria that was left was in my filters.

Assuming you don't have an undergravel filter, then 99% of the biological filtration will be within the canister filter (or whatever you're using). So this shouldn't have been the problem. Much more likely something else went wrong, and the gravel change was purely coincidental.

So bascially my tank started a mini-cycle. My ammonia has dropped back to 0 and has been that way for a few days now. My nitrite has finnaly statred to go down as of last night.

Good.

With the carbon yes it is out and had been, also its not totally usless, the best time to use it is when your done using meds to take it out of the water.

Are you asked to remove medications from your body after the course of tablets? No. The idea you need to remove medications is a bit of a myth. There may be exceptional circumstances where this is desirable (for example if you've used a copper compound but want to introduce copper-intolerant fish or invertebrates). But for most people, most of the time, simply allowing the medications to decay naturally across a few weeks will do the trick fine. Water changes do the rest. Hence, carbon is useless. Go ahead and use the stuff if you want, I'm not stopping you, but I am telling you it's a waste of money. I personally don't like to waste my money!

As for the 10 gallon if I bought the BIO-Spira and put it in 24 hours later the tank would be mature. As for the size of the tank seing how the fish isn't even 3 inchs a 10 gallon would be fine for a few weeks.

Define "a few weeks". Will it be okay by itself for two weeks in the 10 gallon? Probably. Will it be fine for three months in there? No.

As I mentioned above the 55 contains no salt thats the reason for the ten gallon. I was told by CFC to get him in a brackish envirement as soon as possible so thats what I'm trying to do.

CFC is absolutely right. But I'm sure he didn't mean give it brackish water *and* a 10 gallon aquarium! Immature shark cats will survive for months in freshwater. They aren't dying because of the freshwater, I can guarantee that. They are dying for other reasons: immature filtration, poor water quality, low pH/hardness, low oxygen, wrong diet, disease, anything from a long list of potential issues. Look, either way you are going to need a tank 55 gallons or larger, with brackish water, for two or more of these catfish. Keeping a singleton isn't an option really, and a 10 gallon tank isn't either. So decide if you want to [a] keep it properly or take it back to the store. There really isn't another option here.

One other thing I have had a total of 3 black finned sharks and lost two within the last few weeks. All my other fish are doing great. This makes me think it has to do with the fact that there is no salt in the tank. The two that dies were of the same size. The one that is still alive is much smaller then those that died.

It's not the salt. Yes, they do need brackish water over the long term, but lack of salt doesn't kill them in the short term. Here's you list of things to check (plus what they should be):
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline, at least pH 7.5 and hardness ~20 degrees GH.
Water quality: Zero ammonium and nitrite, nitrates 40 ppt or less.
Oxygenation: Ample, the aquarium must *not* be overstocked.
Water changes: At least 20% weekly, ideally much more than that.
Temperature: 25C/77F -- no higher.
Medications used: Nothing with copper (i.e., no "blue" or "green" potions).

Two things in your messages are worrying me. Firstly, the temperature. Like most brackish water fish, these fish are extremely sensitive to low oxygen levels. The temperature should be around 25C and no higher. Secondly, you haven't said what medications you are using. Check they do not contain copper. Catfish generally are intolerant of copper, and Ariid catfish are known to be particularly intolerant. Copper is in most inexpensive whitespot remedies. You *must* use copper-free varieties, such as those branded as "safe for invertebrates". These are the ones used in reef tanks.

Hope this helps,

Neale

 

[erk628]

I guess I didn't explains myself very well, so let me try again. First off this catfish is not the only fish that I have in my tank, like I said it is a freshwater tank. Most of the fish that I have in there can not stand salt at all. The catfish is the only true brackish fish that I have.

Then take the shark catfish back. There's nothing wrong about admitting you bought a fish you can't care for. We've all done it at some point. A shark catfish needs [a] companions, brackish water, and [c] a good deal of space. It will grow to around 15 cm within the first year, if not more. So you may as well plan ahead.

Next thing is I have only had my tank set up for about 2 months before I took the gravel our my water readings were always right on. A few days after I took the gravel out my nitrite and ammonnia went to 1PMM.

Not debating your nitrites and ammonium results, but these were not because you changed the substrate *unless you had an undergravel filter*. The amount of biological filtration (i.e., bacteria) that occurs on sand/gravel just sitting at the bottom of the tank is trivially small. That's why undergravel filters need to have the water pumped through them: without the flow of water, the gravel contributes virtually nothing to water quality.

Meaning taking out the gravel (to early) took to much bacteria out and really the only bacteria that was left was in my filters.

Assuming you don't have an undergravel filter, then 99% of the biological filtration will be within the canister filter (or whatever you're using). So this shouldn't have been the problem. Much more likely something else went wrong, and the gravel change was purely coincidental.

So bascially my tank started a mini-cycle. My ammonia has dropped back to 0 and has been that way for a few days now. My nitrite has finnaly statred to go down as of last night.

Good.

With the carbon yes it is out and had been, also its not totally usless, the best time to use it is when your done using meds to take it out of the water.

Are you asked to remove medications from your body after the course of tablets? No. The idea you need to remove medications is a bit of a myth. There may be exceptional circumstances where this is desirable (for example if you've used a copper compound but want to introduce copper-intolerant fish or invertebrates). But for most people, most of the time, simply allowing the medications to decay naturally across a few weeks will do the trick fine. Water changes do the rest. Hence, carbon is useless. Go ahead and use the stuff if you want, I'm not stopping you, but I am telling you it's a waste of money. I personally don't like to waste my money!

As for the 10 gallon if I bought the BIO-Spira and put it in 24 hours later the tank would be mature. As for the size of the tank seing how the fish isn't even 3 inchs a 10 gallon would be fine for a few weeks.

Define "a few weeks". Will it be okay by itself for two weeks in the 10 gallon? Probably. Will it be fine for three months in there? No.

As I mentioned above the 55 contains no salt thats the reason for the ten gallon. I was told by CFC to get him in a brackish envirement as soon as possible so thats what I'm trying to do.

CFC is absolutely right. But I'm sure he didn't mean give it brackish water *and* a 10 gallon aquarium! Immature shark cats will survive for months in freshwater. They aren't dying because of the freshwater, I can guarantee that. They are dying for other reasons: immature filtration, poor water quality, low pH/hardness, low oxygen, wrong diet, disease, anything from a long list of potential issues. Look, either way you are going to need a tank 55 gallons or larger, with brackish water, for two or more of these catfish. Keeping a singleton isn't an option really, and a 10 gallon tank isn't either. So decide if you want to [a] keep it properly or take it back to the store. There really isn't another option here.

One other thing I have had a total of 3 black finned sharks and lost two within the last few weeks. All my other fish are doing great. This makes me think it has to do with the fact that there is no salt in the tank. The two that dies were of the same size. The one that is still alive is much smaller then those that died.

It's not the salt. Yes, they do need brackish water over the long term, but lack of salt doesn't kill them in the short term. Here's you list of things to check (plus what they should be):
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline, at least pH 7.5 and hardness ~20 degrees GH.
Water quality: Zero ammonium and nitrite, nitrates 40 ppt or less.
Oxygenation: Ample, the aquarium must *not* be overstocked.
Water changes: At least 20% weekly, ideally much more than that.
Temperature: 25C/77F -- no higher.
Medications used: Nothing with copper (i.e., no "blue" or "green" potions).

Two things in your messages are worrying me. Firstly, the temperature. Like most brackish water fish, these fish are extremely sensitive to low oxygen levels. The temperature should be around 25C and no higher. Secondly, you haven't said what medications you are using. Check they do not contain copper. Catfish generally are intolerant of copper, and Ariid catfish are known to be particularly intolerant. Copper is in most inexpensive whitespot remedies. You *must* use copper-free varieties, such as those branded as "safe for invertebrates". These are the ones used in reef tanks.

Hope this helps,

Neale

The meds I am you using is Aquari-Sol the active ingredents are soluble Cooper Salt. Should I get something else.

I guess I didn't explains myself very well, so let me try again. First off this catfish is not the only fish that I have in my tank, like I said it is a freshwater tank. Most of the fish that I have in there can not stand salt at all. The catfish is the only true brackish fish that I have.

Then take the shark catfish back. There's nothing wrong about admitting you bought a fish you can't care for. We've all done it at some point. A shark catfish needs [a] companions, brackish water, and [c] a good deal of space. It will grow to around 15 cm within the first year, if not more. So you may as well plan ahead.

Next thing is I have only had my tank set up for about 2 months before I took the gravel our my water readings were always right on. A few days after I took the gravel out my nitrite and ammonnia went to 1PMM.

Not debating your nitrites and ammonium results, but these were not because you changed the substrate *unless you had an undergravel filter*. The amount of biological filtration (i.e., bacteria) that occurs on sand/gravel just sitting at the bottom of the tank is trivially small. That's why undergravel filters need to have the water pumped through them: without the flow of water, the gravel contributes virtually nothing to water quality.

Meaning taking out the gravel (to early) took to much bacteria out and really the only bacteria that was left was in my filters.

Assuming you don't have an undergravel filter, then 99% of the biological filtration will be within the canister filter (or whatever you're using). So this shouldn't have been the problem. Much more likely something else went wrong, and the gravel change was purely coincidental.

So bascially my tank started a mini-cycle. My ammonia has dropped back to 0 and has been that way for a few days now. My nitrite has finnaly statred to go down as of last night.

Good.

With the carbon yes it is out and had been, also its not totally usless, the best time to use it is when your done using meds to take it out of the water.

Are you asked to remove medications from your body after the course of tablets? No. The idea you need to remove medications is a bit of a myth. There may be exceptional circumstances where this is desirable (for example if you've used a copper compound but want to introduce copper-intolerant fish or invertebrates). But for most people, most of the time, simply allowing the medications to decay naturally across a few weeks will do the trick fine. Water changes do the rest. Hence, carbon is useless. Go ahead and use the stuff if you want, I'm not stopping you, but I am telling you it's a waste of money. I personally don't like to waste my money!

As for the 10 gallon if I bought the BIO-Spira and put it in 24 hours later the tank would be mature. As for the size of the tank seing how the fish isn't even 3 inchs a 10 gallon would be fine for a few weeks.

Define "a few weeks". Will it be okay by itself for two weeks in the 10 gallon? Probably. Will it be fine for three months in there? No.

As I mentioned above the 55 contains no salt thats the reason for the ten gallon. I was told by CFC to get him in a brackish envirement as soon as possible so thats what I'm trying to do.

CFC is absolutely right. But I'm sure he didn't mean give it brackish water *and* a 10 gallon aquarium! Immature shark cats will survive for months in freshwater. They aren't dying because of the freshwater, I can guarantee that. They are dying for other reasons: immature filtration, poor water quality, low pH/hardness, low oxygen, wrong diet, disease, anything from a long list of potential issues. Look, either way you are going to need a tank 55 gallons or larger, with brackish water, for two or more of these catfish. Keeping a singleton isn't an option really, and a 10 gallon tank isn't either. So decide if you want to [a] keep it properly or take it back to the store. There really isn't another option here.

One other thing I have had a total of 3 black finned sharks and lost two within the last few weeks. All my other fish are doing great. This makes me think it has to do with the fact that there is no salt in the tank. The two that dies were of the same size. The one that is still alive is much smaller then those that died.

It's not the salt. Yes, they do need brackish water over the long term, but lack of salt doesn't kill them in the short term. Here's you list of things to check (plus what they should be):
Water chemistry: Hard and alkaline, at least pH 7.5 and hardness ~20 degrees GH.
Water quality: Zero ammonium and nitrite, nitrates 40 ppt or less.
Oxygenation: Ample, the aquarium must *not* be overstocked.
Water changes: At least 20% weekly, ideally much more than that.
Temperature: 25C/77F -- no higher.
Medications used: Nothing with copper (i.e., no "blue" or "green" potions).

Two things in your messages are worrying me. Firstly, the temperature. Like most brackish water fish, these fish are extremely sensitive to low oxygen levels. The temperature should be around 25C and no higher. Secondly, you haven't said what medications you are using. Check they do not contain copper. Catfish generally are intolerant of copper, and Ariid catfish are known to be particularly intolerant. Copper is in most inexpensive whitespot remedies. You *must* use copper-free varieties, such as those branded as "safe for invertebrates". These are the ones used in reef tanks.

Hope this helps,

Neale

The meds I am you using is Aquari-Sol the active ingredents are soluble Cooper Salt. Should I get something else.

Also When I said I few weeks I was talking two weeks max, also I'm going to get another on about his size tonight so he has a friend.

 

[kanzaris]

Hi Erk628

Regarding Medication I would get what Neale advised you to get.
Regarding Tank Size, please don’t think we are criticising but these Cat Sharks grow very fast. I started keeping Cat Sharks about 18 month ago in a 75 gal tank (3 ft). I bought them at about 3-4in the biggest is now 11inch. In the 75 gal he used to just sit at the bottom of the Tank. Now he is in a 150 gal (6 ½ ft) Tank and has three more mates he never sits about he swim like he should do.


Sabby

 

[nmonks]

Yes, stop using the copper-based medication. Ask for a marine aquarium safe brand, or at least one safe for use with invertebrates.

Two weeks in a mini-tank will be fine. Not good, but fine. A friend will help. I'd be tempted to find him a big tank first, and then, when you've done that, get him a pal. Putting two shark cats in a 10 gal, is not the best idea I've heard this weekend.

Ask around in this forum for shark cat advice; sabby, who's just posted here, seems to be the resident shark cat expert! None of us bite even if we bark a little now and again. And I'll say this again: these are outstanding fish, and come the closest to being like "sharks" than any other aquarium fish (other than maybe actual sharks). They have the sweetest personalities, and everyone I know who has kept them loves them dearly. The fact they are awesome predators with venomous bites, toxic stings, make noises, and may even have a kind of echolocation just adds to their charm. As sabby says, when you keep them in a group they school nicely, and are wonderful fish to watch.

Cheers,

Neale

 

[kanzaris]

Yes, stop using the copper-based medication. Ask for a marine aquarium safe brand, or at least one safe for use with invertebrates.

Two weeks in a mini-tank will be fine. Not good, but fine. A friend will help. I'd be tempted to find him a big tank first, and then, when you've done that, get him a pal. Putting two shark cats in a 10 gal, is not the best idea I've heard this weekend.

Ask around in this forum for shark cat advice; sabby, who's just posted here, seems to be the resident shark cat expert! None of us bite even if we bark a little now and again. And I'll say this again: these are outstanding fish, and come the closest to being like "sharks" than any other aquarium fish (other than maybe actual sharks). They have the sweetest personalities, and everyone I know who has kept them loves them dearly. The fact they are awesome predators with venomous bites, toxic stings, make noises, and may even have a kind of echolocation just adds to their charm. As sabby says, when you keep them in a group they school nicely, and are wonderful fish to watch.

Cheers,

Neale

Hi Again

Thanks for the complement but I would not like to call myself an expert after only keeping Cat Sharks for 18 month, funny enough all I know I have learned from this forum and I am very grateful for that. I was badly advised by my LFS when I bought these Fish.

Thanks

Sabby

 

[erk628]

Yes, stop using the copper-based medication. Ask for a marine aquarium safe brand, or at least one safe for use with invertebrates.

Two weeks in a mini-tank will be fine. Not good, but fine. A friend will help. I'd be tempted to find him a big tank first, and then, when you've done that, get him a pal. Putting two shark cats in a 10 gal, is not the best idea I've heard this weekend.

Ask around in this forum for shark cat advice; sabby, who's just posted here, seems to be the resident shark cat expert! None of us bite even if we bark a little now and again. And I'll say this again: these are outstanding fish, and come the closest to being like "sharks" than any other aquarium fish (other than maybe actual sharks). They have the sweetest personalities, and everyone I know who has kept them loves them dearly. The fact they are awesome predators with venomous bites, toxic stings, make noises, and may even have a kind of echolocation just adds to their charm. As sabby says, when you keep them in a group they school nicely, and are wonderful fish to watch.

Cheers,

Neale

Hi Again

Thanks for the complement but I would not like to call myself an expert after only keeping Cat Sharks for 18 month, funny enough all I know I have learned from this forum and I am very grateful for that. I was badly advised by my LFS when I bought these Fish.

Thanks

Sabby

Thanks for the advise guys. Nmonks I have a quick question my catfish still has ich so I'm going to go get some different meds tonight, my question is you said not to keep the temp so high but I was told you had to have the temp set at 85F in order for the ich to fall off and for the ingredents in the meds to be actvated.

 

[nmonks]

The high temperature is to speed up the maturation cycle. The medication CANNOT kill the whitespots on the fish. All it CAN kill are the mobile "baby" whitespot parasites swimming in the water. So higher temperatures speed up the life cycle so the adult whitespots breed and then die. With luck, the medication kills off the second generation before it can infect your fish, and then you're tank is whitespot-free. That's the theory, anyway. You don't really need to raise the temperature as it doesn't actually kill the parasites. It isn't the treatment, it's a way of speeding up the treatment. I personally don't bother. Raising the temperature does speed things up a lot when treating coldwater fish, but with tropicals, the improvement is slight, a few days at most.

Cheers,

Neale

Thanks for the advise guys. Nmonks I have a quick question my catfish still has ich so I'm going to go get some different meds tonight, my question is you said not to keep the temp so high but I was told you had to have the temp set at 85F in order for the ich to fall off and for the ingredents in the meds to be actvated.