Molly Problem

June FOTM Photo Contest Starts Now!
FishForums.net Fish of the Month
🏆 Click to enter! 🏆

KrystaK

Fish Addict
Joined
Jul 24, 2011
Messages
877
Reaction score
1
Location
CA
Tank size: 30 Gal
pH: 8.2
ammonia: Acceptable
nitrite: Acceptable
nitrate: Acceptable
kH: Unknown
gH: Unknown
tank temp: 75-78 depending on time of day (Heater is on a timer)

Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior):
Perfectly active as if nothing were wrong, though the scales on the left side of his head have lost their color (And just a few min ago) I saw one fall off! He hasn't bred with any of his girls (Well he has, but they aren't getting pregnant) He is still territorial and acting his normal self, the only issue is the scales on his head turning white and I just recently saw one or two fall off when I introduced a female back from the nursery tank.
It doesn`t look like a fungus or any sort of growth, just as if his scales are turning white-gray (But I cant get a good look, he is to active)

Volume and Frequency of water changes: 25-30% weekly

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank: Seachem plant fertalizer, Aqueon water dechlorifier, Aquarium salt (.5 teaspoon per 5 gal)

Tank inhabitants: 2 female mollies, four female Platy`s, 1 male platy, 1 female guppy.


Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration): (Due to crack in my 20 gal) 1 female molly, 1 Panda cory, 3 Ottos, no decorations or new chemicals added.

Exposure to chemicals: Possibly vinegar due to cleaning hard water stains, otherwise just chemicals I listed above.

Digital photo (include if possible):
fishy027.jpg

fishy032.jpg


Sorry about quality, even with my best camera he is too twitchy to get a good still photo of.
Any help would be great!!
 
Your molly is ill, quaratine him into a separate tank. Mollies are brackish water fish (am I correct?). You can maintain Mollies in a community tank with many but only the most sensitive South American Fish. Other livebearers that do not have as high of mineral requirements will also do well in an aquarium that is at least kept to minimum Molly requirements.
If you intend to keep Mollies in a community aquarium with other fish such as Platties, Gouramis, etc; here are the minimum requirements I would suggest:

*pH – 7.5 - 8.0
*KH -100 – 150+ ppm
*GH – 200 -300+ ppm (important!)
*Salt (marine salt is best here) – 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons to 1 teaspoon per gallon

With this "disease", The Molly Fish stay in one place and wiggle, rock, wag and/or "shimmy" (hence the term "Shimmies").



Molly Disease is not technically a disease at all, rather a condition brought on by poor water conditions; electrolytes in particular.
However secondary infections may accompany this condition or parasitic protozoan infections may also mimic or even be present along with Shimmies/Molly Disease.

Treatment is generally easy assuming the condition is not too progressed.
Improving water chemistry as noted earlier in this article is the first step (following the in depth Aquarium Chemistry Article is a MUST for more complete information on this important subject!).
Although salt is not essential to most Mollies despite anecdotal claims to the contrary, the addition of 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons to 1 teaspoon per gallon of Aquarium Salt generally aids in Molly Disease initially (sometimes 2 teaspoons per gallon is needed, assuming other tank mates can tolerate this, of which Guppies should do fine with this level of salt).
[Mmmm.. I don't think that's very helpful to you :(]
Is that the only spot where he's gray/white/losing scales? Anymore spots?
A fish will begin to turn silver due to bleaching from ammonia poisoning. First its gills will change, then the rest of its body. After the body turns silver, the fish will soon die.

Many websites will tell you to change 20% of the water a week, however, in a chloramine environment this will kill your fish as that compound is a mix of chlorine and ammonia. A healthy freshwater aquarium fish typically wants the following environment:


+ A pH of 6.8
+ A water temperature of 80-84 degrees Fahrenheit
+ 0% ammonia, nitrate, and chlorine


Your tank can handle up to .25% ammonia at a pH of 6.8. The higher your pH, the more toxic your ammonia problem becomes.

~Blitz :)
 

Most reactions

Back
Top