Minimum Tank Size For A Single Male?

fantastic informative post there, thank you!

quick question though what is best to use for the 'earthy' substrate? is there a special aquarium soil based substrate, or can i pull something from the bottom of someones pond?



im gonna have fun with this!!




(ps - i too am financially challenged as i like to put it! but buying most of my items second hand or being given them free for my fishy rescue part, it all helps keep costs down!!)
 
Hmm thats odd, why does a tank for a betta have to be so big? I can understand 1-2 gallons but any bigger then that is absolutely ridiculous. Their just ONE fish.

I have mine in a 0.7 Gallon tank and he seems fine to me. He makes air bubbles, eats, and looks healthy.
 
People have used everything from yard soil to pond soil, and get all kinds of little critters and other organisms with them.
Some seem to be harmless, others aren't.
You'll see pictures of some on the threads...

Don't use the fake stuff - get the real dirt.
Apart from anything else, the natural soil bacteria will help with the tank processes, while nasties seem to expire or be starved out in the packing process.
Plants grow in dirt - and it's worked forever - as far as life itself goes, anyway.

Best bet, cheap topsoil - no added anything, and all unbreakable lumps of organic matter carefully removed.
No chemicals, no vermiculite or perlite - and check out the planted section for a comment entitled: 'The Cost of Vermiculite - Breathtaking' if you don't know why.
Also, stuff like that floats up into the water...
Do NOT use any Scotts product - they're loaded with toxic chemicals and heavy metals - someone on one of the El Natural threads had some info on that, as you may or may have have seen; I don't know how global they are, but they're pretty big, and may, for all I know, ship poison to Belgium as well.
Some peat content's OK, but apparently too rich is liable to translate into an ammonia/algae farm, and wetting agents used on this for potting soil can be, I believe, (too lazy to check right now) deadly to fish.
Not good, anyway.
If you could only get topsoil that could be used in organic horticulture, that would be ideal.
Even if much more expensive, for a small bag, and for the increased health of your tank, plants, fish and all, it'd be worth it.
I was lucky enough to be given by my Dad a nearly full bag of lovely soil which did have some peat in it but which had been open for several years, and left out in the elements for a couple of them.
This was perfect, as not only was ammonia released, but a fair number of chemicals would have been broken down/removed, I'm told.
So if you can get an old, opened bag from anybody, ever so much the better.
I was able to contact the business, a smaller, local, privately owned outfit, explained the use I intended the soil for and my concerns, to be told that their soil came from farmers fields, (so would have been artificial ferts added at some point) but that they hadn't added anything.
And I went through everything I took from the bag, removing anything hard/lumpy, along with the moss growing in it, for every tank/potted plant done.
And it's important to remember to at the least let that bag of soil air out open for a bit, as quite a bit of ammonia/nitrates will likely gas out, and it helps if you can spread the amount you want out flat for a few days.
I swiped an enormous, relatively shallow metal mixing bowl that was stored unused in the laundry room - if you can find something like that, you'd probably find it as handy as do I.
The soil could be spread out in that fairly thinly, without risking spillage, and left to air out for a few days.
Or there's a thread on 'mineralizing' the soil which involves soaking and working it, if you're interested.
But it's the people who have the wrong soil, and/or don't have aired soil, who develop ammonia spikes and algae breakouts in the early days.
And it can take months to stablize in that case - when care in soil selection, and even a few days airing, can make so much difference in producing a trouble-free tank.

edit - just thought I'd better add, in case you don't know, that I believe you need about 40% plant matter, to assure good uptake of ammonia as produced, and do need to aim for about that amount or more to grow in, and will of course, need cover plants, something low, for the front so as to have a swimming and feeding area where your fish will be visible.
That's fairly easy to do in the small tank planned.
 
I too feel some peopel are too fussy about how to keep bettas. Mine in the tank never even attempted making nests and both have done so in a small 2 litre bowl.
 
I myself, am new to Betta keeping after rescuing some a few months ago. Set up a 6 gal with lots of fast growing plants (anacharis, milfoil and wisteria) with adequit lighting, gravel substrate and a heater. Began DIY co2 to help the plants. Cycled the tank with the fish in while keeping very accurate and daily records of all important levels. The tank has been cycled for over a month now with now with no traditional filtration (some people may get annoyed at you around here if you dont have one)-only plants to use up the fish's wastes. also LOTS of snails to keep the plants clean. Never had any algae blooms. Very productive plants- they bubble lots of O2 all day. since the tank has cycled i have had absolutely no readings of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates!
while this is a bit more complicated (less simplistic with the diy co2) than the Walstad method, it was super easy and has achieved the same end result: an extremely low maintanence tank with a VERY happy fish. his coloration has dramatically changed to a much more vibrant appearance. And i do think that any fish benefits from live plants. my guy just loves cruising around his tank. The real plants are very easy to keep with minimal effort.
i now check my levels every four days or so (always the same, though: 0/0/0) and all i need to do is prune the plants as they grow really fast and top it off about once a week or so.
IMHO, well worth the initial time invested making sure everything was up to snuff (religiously checking levels everyday while tank was becoming established, and doing appropriate small water changes as the need arose, but even then, was more like once a week instead of every(other) day had i not had real plants in there to help take in ammonia.
good luck with the new tank :good:
 
do you think it is possible to split the 35 litre tank and have two males while using the walstad method?
 
do you think it is possible to split the 35 litre tank and have two males while using the walstad method?

Don't see why not, but must, of course, be very careful that it won't be possible to disturb the earth if using impermanent separators which might be moved at any time, or just move at all...
Especially as a fair bit of height would be required between the two betta sides to prevent them jumping over for purposes of brawling, which might make knocking/shifting of the insert more likely,.
And I'd suggest packing a thin layer of gravel between the earth and whatever separator is used, if set in down to tank bottom (most likely?) and prior to set-up, to prevent soil from being disturbed/leaching into water column, etc.
The great thing about soil under gravel is that the plant roots can access nutrients and algae can't - works beautifully as long as you can make certain to keep it that way as far as possible.



Hi, loraxchick, glad everything's going well: bettas just love planted tanks, don't they?

I think people just get worried because so many piscine horror stories appear daily on such forums as these, and it's relatively recent that published science on plant activity and capacities has intersected with aquarists to produce natural plant filtration methods as a progressively more mainstream, if still comparitively unknown, system.
I'm new to this forum, and have had nightmares already...
 
I too feel some peopel are too fussy about how to keep bettas. Mine in the tank never even attempted making nests and both have done so in a small 2 litre bowl.
its not surprising that the bettas sharing a 5 gal hell with an aggressive angelfish and massive waste producing goldfish and plec,(all of which need far more space than 5 gal individually! let alone together) were happier to come out of that misery and into a safe space alone! if you were to get rid of the other fish (all of which you are torturing and stunting by keeping in there) i have no doubt you would see even happier behaviour from the single remaining betta inhabitant. (or divided for both boys) don't try to twist the facts of your mistreatment to make it sound like they are better off in smaller containers.
The tank has been cycled for over a month now with now with no traditional filtration (some people may get annoyed at you around here if you dont have one)-only plants to use up the fish's wastes. also LOTS of snails to keep the plants clean. Never had any algae blooms. Very productive plants- they bubble lots of O2 all day. since the tank has cycled i have had absolutely no readings of ammonia, nitrites or nitrates!
i wish you would stop saying things like this (its very passive aggressive) if your method had been working correctly then most people would have been happy for you. some few might not have understood, but would have been corrected by others. i certainly would have been interested by it.
however what actually happened was you kept 2 bettas in ammonia and nitrite levels of 1ppm+ (which is dangerous for them) for a month while you "cycled" (not sure this is the correct term for what happens with plant nutrient take up) this is what most people were upset about,
lots of members on this forum have unfiltered tanks and just perform regular water changes, and most members are happy with whatever system others use so long as their fish and kept in good quality water. i'm not looking for an argument here, but you just seem to keep having little digs again and again.
 

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