Member's Planted Tanks (Follow Directions To Submit A Tank)

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Fish Crazy
Jan 30, 2006
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2006 original:

2007 remodel:

Wasn't happy with remodel, so here's the new look:

Tank: 20 US Gallons

Filtration: Fluval 105 - sponges/carbon

Lighting: Compact Flourescent 65 Watt system w/ 1 white LED moonlight - on 12, off 12 hrs

CO2: CO2 Pro System Deluxe (paintball system) - 2 bps

Substrate: Flourite Red mixed with common black gravel

Fertilisation: the entire Flourish line

Water chemistry: 6.8 PH, 0 ppm nitrates/ites, 78 F

Maintenance: 15 % biweekly change, monthly filter cleaning, every week trimming

Fish: 1 x Cardinal Tetras, 2 x Rummynose Tetras, 1 x Flash Pleco, 2 x amano shrimp, 4 x ottos.

Plants: Many crypts, riccia, rotala rotundifolia, anacharis, java moss, phoenix moss, anchor moss, christmas moss, marimo moss ball, bolbitis asiatica, corkscrew val, much more...

Decor: driftwood

Additional comments: This is simply a 3-year-old planted tank just to play with.

Thanks to everyone who has shared their tanks with us all!

~ Wonderboy!!


Aug 12, 2006
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Richmond CA
Tank: 20 US Gallons

Filtration: Whisper 20, Furval Ceramix media

Lighting: Jebo 2 X 55 watt 1000k

CO2: Nutrafin yeast/suger unit - 30ppm "approx"

Substrate: silica sand , kiln dried, and screened

Fertilisation: Seachum florish and substrate tabs

Water chemistry: 6.8 PH, 0 ppm nitrates/ites, 78 F

Maintenance: 20 % weekly change, weekly trimming of stem plants

Fish: 8 X Blue neons, 5 x Black neon tetras, 2 x Rubberlip plecos, 2 red wag tail platies

Plants: 6 X Hygrophila difformis (water wistera), 10 X Microsorium pteroptus (java fern), Vesicularia dubyana (java moss) - Attached to drift wood, 1 X Anubias Nana, 6 X Ammannia gracilis, 5 X Alternanthera reineckii, 20 X Myriophyllum matogrossensis
2 X Cryptocoryne wendtii, 1 X Echinodorus uruguayensis

Decor: driftwood

Additional comments: This tank won't look like this for long, i am including a pic from 1 week ago to show growth rate of plants.
1st date of set-up


After 1 week


Plant guide




New Member
Oct 28, 2006
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Tank: 40 Gal

Filtration: Emperor

Lighting: over 100 ONDO lighting

CO2: Nutrafin co2

Substrate: Regular

Fertilisation: Fish Waste.

Maintenance: Once a Month water change

Fish ? Guppies, Shrimps, others unknown

Plants, Java moss, Christmas moss, anubia, anarchias, riccia & more


New Member
Apr 10, 2005
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United states Southern California

Tank Volume (US Gallons, Litres): 60 US gallons

Dimensions (L x H x W - Inches, cm): 48"x17"x15"

Filtration Type, media used: Eheim 2217 stock media

Lighting Type: Tek 4x54w T5 HO 2x6500k, 2x10000k

CO2: Inline DIY reactor, Bubble count matched to my Drop checker.

Substrate: Soil Master Select, ~40lbs

Fertilisation: Basically EI, Excel sometimes

Water chemistry:? Average:)

Maintenance: Usually weekly 50% water changes, Clean Ehiem when it slows down.

Fish list of species: School of Green neons, A few ottos, 1 Amano shrimp

Plants list of species (full scientific/Latin names please, common terms are too ambiguous)
Eleocharis parvula
Echinodorus Angustifolius
Echinodorus Tenellus "micro"

Decor types i.e. bogwood, stones
Lava rock from the Desert.

Additional comments Give a brief history of the tank's life.
Had a few problems. Eventually got it to where I liked it. Now I am trying to do another scape with glosso instead.

Read all about it here: There is a lot of stuff that I don't want to copy over to here.:)


Fish Crazy
May 7, 2006
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Tank: 95 gallon tank

Filtration: One eheim Classic 2215 and Aquaclear 100?

Lighting: 260 watt coralife lighting. 2.7 WPG

Co2: Co2 injection. 10lb tank with a rio power reactor. uncountable bubbles per minute. Using a milwaukee PH controller too.

Substrate: 100% Flourite

Ferts: TMG (improved version) 35mg . Half tsp of potassium nitrate every two weeks.

Water chemistry: PH 6.2. Temp 81.

Maintenence: 50% water change every two weeks. Gravel vac. Pruning if it needs doing.

Plants: Polysperma, many Cyrpts, Anubias, Java Fern. Various others.

Seem to get green dust algae once in a while. I leave it now and scrape it off once it gets bad, and do a water change straight after.

Not 100% happy with the tank. Have never got the ferts 100% and lush green. Best thing I done was stop the dry dosing

George Farmer

George Farmer

ad aqua
Jul 6, 2003
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Stamford, Lincs, UK
It appears some of you need a reminder of what is expected of posts in this thread. If it seems like a lot of effort then perhaps the "Member's pics" forum is for you.

I ask member's that haven't followed the guideline below to edit their posts accordingly. If they do not I will remove them.

Thanks for your co-operation.

Please fully read and understand this first post before submitting your tank to this thread.

Member's Planted Tanks is intended to be a database of specifications with photos of member's planted aquariums. It should provide a valuable resource to other members of the forum and should be particularly helpful to less experienced planted aquarists. It also gives the individual member the opportunity to show off their hard work.

Do not post any replies regarding questions or feedback in this thread? I will delete them. PM the relevant member with any feedback or question you may have and if it is useful then the member will edit their post accordingly. Potential contributors should be aware that they may receive lots of PMs.

If you wish to submit your planted tank then please follow these guidelines.

1. Please do not contribute your tank unless it is well-planted, if it isn't then the Member's Aquarium Pictures Forum is the place for you. I would define "well-planted" as the aquascape being strongly dominated by living, true-aquatic plants that are growing healthily. Typically this would mean a minimum of 50% of the substrate covered in plants but there may be possible exceptions. PM me if you are unsure.

2. Follow this format for listing your tank specifications. It may be a good idea to cut and paste this into your post. If everyone follows the exact same format then I feel the thread will look very well-presented and professional looking. There is more detail here than many may be used to but in my experience the more detail the better, especially for potential planted hobbyists wishing to replicate any of the hardware, parameters etc.

Tank Volume (US Gallons, Litres), Dimensions (L x H x W - Inches, cm)

Filtration Type, media used

Lighting Type (T8, T5, PC etc.) and quantity (amount of tubes, Watts), colour temp.

CO2 Method of injection (DIY, pressurized etc.), quantity (average ppm), diffusion/reaction type, bubble rate

Substrate Type, quantity (Kg or depth in inches/cm), additives used

Fertilisation Types used, quantities and frequency of dosing.

Water chemistry pH, KH, GH, NO3, PO4, temperature

Maintenance Water change schedule, filter cleaning, substrate cleaning etc.

Fish list of species, quantity if necessary

Plants list of species (full scientific/Latin names please, common terms are too ambiguous)

Decor types i.e. bogwood, stones

Additional comments Give a brief history of the tank's life.

Discuss any problems you had with individual plants i.e. stunted growth, nutrient deficiencies and how you overcame them.

Talk about any algae experiences and you dealt with them i.e. changes in CO2, fertilising. Try to keep it brief yet well informed.

3. Try to keep the photos to a minimum, yet enough to portray the feel of the tank. Start with one whole tank shot, label the plants if necessary and provide a key. I'm leaving this to your common sense. If you feel close-ups are particularly relevant then provide them. If the size of the contribution gets out of hand then I will edit as I see fit. This may sound obvious but please crop the images to fit within a standard size desktop screen. All too often I see huge images in posts that overlap my visible desktop area.

4. Finally it has to be said I'm afraid (I hope this won't be relevant).

Don't even think about posting photos of someone else's work. I will probably be able to tell by the specs if it is genuine, if I'm in any doubt I will PM the contributor with some probing questions that will allow me to ascertain whether the submission is honest. If I believe there is cheating then needless to say the post will be deleted followed by possible disciplinary action. You have been warned.

I look forward to seeing your contributions.


Retired moderator :)
Retired Moderator ⚒️
Aug 10, 2005
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Miami, FL
I figured since this particular scape has been retired and enjoyed a pretty stable existance, it would be good to add.

llj's 8g Dutch layout

Tank 8g, 16.5"x 11.5"x 10", Finnex brand seamless front aquarium

Filtration Aquaclear 20 (3 sponges), Finnex brand HOB filtration (Aquaclear brand sponge media). Both set to maximum flow capacity.

Lighting PC, 24W, 7100K Finnex brand fixture (came with the aquarium)

CO2 No CO2 injection

Substrate 1-3mm natural gravel, 1-2" depth, supplemented with 16oz of laterite and mixed

Fertilisation Seachem rootabs, dosed every 3-4 months.

Water chemistry pH 7.2, other parameters not measured, temperature 73-76 farenheit, depending on the season. This tank is unheated as I live in a very warm climate.

Maintenance 2.5g water change 2x a week, gravel vac once a week. Media cleaning once a week. Filter cleaning once a month.

Fish 9 Xiphophorus maculatus "dwarf" and fry, sunburst variety.

Plants Cryptocoryne lutea and lucens, Hemianthus micranthemoides, Rotala rotundifolia, Alternantera reineckii, Heternantera zosterfolia, lemna minor, Echinodorus tenellus

Decor None

Additional comments This tank was setup initially in July as a high-tech with little success. 24W is insufficient over 8g to be considered high-light. I tore down the tank and set it up again in October of 2006. It was initially run with DIY CO2, which was removed in late October because in sufficient consumption by the plants. For the first three months of the tank's life, it was a simple jungle scape, while early algae issues were being sorted and different plant species were experimented with. I had a brief out break of green water which was cured when I stopped injecting CO2, and I've had very minor thread algae on my Hemianthus micranthemoides, which was manually removed during water changes. In December, having read up on Dutch scapes and enjoying the color and form of my plants, I removed the hardscape (wood) and converted the tank to a Dutch layout. The challenge was preserving the essence of the typical Dutch layout on a much smaller scale. Plant species were reduced, the typical moss walls were removed, and finding contrasting leaf shapes that grew well in lower light was very difficult. I had to train A. reineckii to grow smaller leaves by pinching the tips. Another challenge was finding a proper foreground plant, which ranged from moss to crypts, to finally E. tenellus, which is what I settled on.

One thing I will say, though, Dutch scapes require quite a bit of maintenance. To maintain the look you want, you need to prune quite a bit. I thought it wouldn't be so bad because of the lighting level, but growth was actually quite rapid. Even with low-light and no CO2, this isn't the type of tank for lazy hobbiest. After nearly 6 months with a Dutch scape, I recently switched to a more natural style scape with less emphasis on structure and more on maintenance ease. I also wanted to experiment with emmersed growth and flower production, which is not the emphasis in Dutch scapes. If you like tinkering, however, this is a lovely option fo you. The pictures below were taken between prunings. I have kept it even more structured than this. It was nice to know that you didn't necessarily need a large tank or high-tech equipment to keep a colorful, complex layout.




Retired moderator :)
Retired Moderator ⚒️
Aug 10, 2005
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Miami, FL
This tank is now a year old, so I consider it mature enough to add to this section.

llj's 20g Planted aquarium

Tank 20g, 24"x 12"x 18", All-Glass aquarium, I think. I've had it over 10 years. Used to house a pair of kribs and was then dismantled when the pair died and I got into goldfish in 2000

Filtration Aquaclear 30 (3 sponges), Aquaclear 50 (3 sponges). Both set to maximum flow capacity.

Lighting 3, 14W T5 bulbs, 2.1WPG, one colormax, the other two at 6700k, photo period is 12 hours or more. I use one T5 as sort of a night light until I go to bed.

CO2 Two Nutrafin canisters connected via T-connector to a bubble ladder. DIY mix (1/2cup sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast) changed on alternate days once a week, 1-2 bubbles per second.

Substrate 1-3mm natural gravel, 2-3" depth, supplemented with 24oz of laterite and mixed

Fertilisation Seachem rootabs, dosed every 3-4 months.

Water chemistry pH 6.4, kH 3, other parameters not measured, temperature 68-76 farenheit, depending on the season. This tank is unheated as I live in a very warm climate.

Maintenance 5g water change weekly, gravel vac once a week. Media cleaning once a week. Filter cleaning once a month.

Fish 5 Hyphessobrycon callistus (Serpae tetras), 5 Corydoras aenaeus, 6 Hypessobrycon herbertaxelrodi, 3 Otocinclus affinis, 6 Boehlkea fredcochui, 4 Corydoras peleatus. Soon to add a pair of Scleromystax barbatus.

Plants Bolbitis heudelotii, Anubia barteri var. barteri, Marsilea quadrifolia, Bacopa caroliniana, Rotala rotundifolia, Christmas moss.

Decor Four pieces of Mopani wood interlocked together.

Additional comments This tank was setup in June of 2006. It was originally another high-tech system with 2.8WPG, CO2 injection, and EI and looked like this.


I was getting persistant greenwater, however, and my wood was rotting, so I reduced the lighting to 1.4WPG and replaced the wood about a month or so later. This cleared up the greenwater very quickly and the tank was algae-free until November or December when I got a BBA outbreak on my A. reineckii. I used excel to treat this and nearly killed the A. reineckii as some plants are sensitive to Excel dosing. In retrospect, I should have just removed the infected leaves. The only other major event was an ICH outbreak when I purchased the blue tetras, which was promptly treated with no losses. When I reduced the lighting in this tank, I maintained a jungle scape for quite some time, which I think contributed to the overall stability of this system. Chief among the early stemplants were Egeria densa and Hydrocotyle leucocephala, which are excellent algae-busters. Also, as you can see from the above picture, the Marsilea hirsuta (clover-like plant) is in its emersed form. It took about 4-5 months for the plant to completely transition from emersed to submerged growth. which has several potential leaf shapes, from a single lobe to four lobes.

In late April or early May of 2007, I hooked up another T5 bulb, giving me 2.1WPG. I did this because I was concerned about the decreased efficiency of my T5 bulbs, which were over 2 years old at that point. I also experimented with a more structured scape and removed a lot of rampant moss and Marsilea hirsuta, which was covering some very nice pieces of Mopani driftwood. No sense covering wood you paid a pretty penny for. I also removed the A. reineckii and replaced it with Rotala rotundifolia, which was more subtle and looked better with the wood. Finally, new wood was added to frame the anubias and to contrast with the Marsilea hirsuta, which was forming a lovely foreground along with bare stretches of substrate. The final layout is below.


On the left back corner is R. rotundifolia. On the right back corner, B. caroliniana. Hidden in the wood by the Bacopa is a small rhyzome of Bolbitis, which is hard to make out. In the center, surrounded by wood is a large cluster of Anubia barterii var barterii. There are two small tufts of Christmas moss, and the foreground is bare gravel with two concentrations of Marsilia hirsuta on the left and right of the tank. Some other pictures for your benefit.





Because of the large quantity of Mopani, this tank is consistently the color of weak tea. I personally like this, but others do not. This can be eliminated by either soaking the Mopani for a longer period before adding to the tank or filtering with Activated carbon. In addtion, this tank is overstocked by most standards. I do not recommend this stocking for beginners as you do have to keep up with maintenance, especially in the tanks early stages. On the other hand, I think the plants have benefit from the extra waste produced and the system is now mature enough that it can go nearly a month without water changes and function on zero power for a day or two. Notice, however, that the stocking also consists of minimal-waste producing fish.


Fish Fanatic
Jan 19, 2007
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Tank - 200 litres

Filtration - Tetratec ex1200

Lighting - 90w 2x Arcadia freshwater 1x Arcadia Origional with reflectors

CO2 - Pressurized D&D Co2 Kit with JBL Vario Diffuser 15ppm

Substrate - Pea Gravel with JBL fertiliser balls underneath crypts and sword plants

Fertilization - Greenline pro plant fertiliser bag

Water chemistry - PH 7.0, KH 5, Temperature 27C

Maintenance - 30 Litre water change once a week

Fish - 2x Angelfish, 2 Firemouths, 9 Harliquin rasboras, 9 Rummynose tetras, 5 Corydoras Sterbai, 2 Bristlenosse catfish

Plants - Vallisneria americana (natans), Echinodorus 'Red Diamond', Java Fern, Cryptocoryne wendtii ''green'', Cryptocoryne wendtii ''brown'', Echinodorus tenellus

Comments - I have been keeping fish for 2 years now , started of with a juwel rekord 60 and then got this tank a year ago. The tank has went under alot of changes lately due to my new Pressurized Co2 kit that I bought a couple of weeks ago so im just waiting for a few new plants that I bought to fill out a bit more such as the vallis curtain at the back of the tank and the Echinodorus tenellus plants at the front left hand side which you cant really see at the moment as they were only planted a few days ago and are still quite small. Had a bit of trouble with black brush algae due to unstable co2 when I was using the DIY method but since I got my Pressurized Co2 kit it has stopped growing and I have got rid of most of what was left in the tank by pruning.


Fish Crazy
Sep 3, 2004
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There are some truly awesome aquariums on display here.... :good:

I am just starting out with my very first South American planted aquarium, but this is my Rio 125.


Tank – Juwel Rio 125L. 36" x 18" x 24"

Filtration – Standard Juwel Compact H - 600l/h

Lighting – Juwel T5 with reflectors

CO2 – None used as yet. A Dennerle profi250 just won on Ebay though.

Substrate – Eco-Complete spread from 1" to 3" depth.

Fertilisation – 10ml of Nutrafin Plany Growth

Maintenance – 10% water change every other day

Decor – Lengths of Grape Root. These produce a brown hair algae that fish go beserk for.

20x Cardinal Tetra
4x Black Neon Tetra
3x Apisto Agassizi (Double Red)
3x Panda Corydora

2x Radican Swords
2x Mayacca Fluviatilis
1x Rotala Walichii
3x Vallisneria Spirallis
4x Nymphaea bulbs
1x Nuphar species tuber

I made an impulse purchase in the week, of a wild collected Nyphaea bulb and a Red Nuphar tuber, so I might have to have a bit of a reshuffle...

EDIT - 26/06/08

Here are a couple of photos that I took last night. As you can see there has been some growth going on...




New Member
Jul 17, 2009
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My Brand New Long Island Beach-esque Picotope!

Tank Volume:
3 US Gallons

11.8" x 8.9" x 8.1"

Filtration Type:
Pico Powerfilter
Model: WF-2015
Volt: 115V
Power: 6W
GPH: 40gph
Dim: 3.3" x 3" x 4"
Media: Sponge
(I also have a Deco Nano Filter that was running on this tank before there were fish in it, but had to be used for an emergency quarantine recently. I might leave it off as the water is already more turbulent than I would like with just the one filter!)

Lighting Type:
JBJ Picotope Clamp-On Lamp in the back (Power: 9W, Kelvin: 50/50 CF Lamp - Half Blue/Half 10K, Ballast type: Magnetic/Remote) &
Azoo Neo-Light (24 LEDs - 6 blue and 18 white)

ADA Nature Aquarium Goods CO2 System 74 Amazonia (not hooked up yet)

Substrate Type:
ADA Nature Aquarium Goods Power Sand Special-S (bottom layer), Aqua Soil Amazonia - Powder Type (middle layer) & Forest Sand Branco (top layer).

Substrate Additives Used:
ADA Nature Aquarium Goods Bacter-100 & Clear Super

ADA Nature Aquarium Goods Green Brighty - Step 1 (administered 1x per day)

Water Chemistry:

PH: 6.0

78 F (no heater used due to lights)

1 gallon water change weekly, daily top-off with water treated with Am-Quel

2 Otocinclus affinis (a.k.a. Oto Cat)
1 Corydoras julii (a.k.a. Leopard Cory)
1 Corydoras spp. (a.k.a. Cory Cat)
1 Caridina japonica (a.k.a. Amano shrimp)

Eleocharis parvula (a.k.a. Dwarf Hairgrass)
Hemianthus callitrichoides (a.k.a. Dwarf Baby Tears)

Tiffany brand blue stationary paper (2 sheets) as background.

Additional comments:

This is a newly set-up JBJ Picotope that I purchased to replace my 55-gallon planted aquarium since I moved into my tiny new apartment. It was running with just plants and water in it for 3 weeks; I added the fish and the one shrimp last night.

I have always loved going to the beach out on Long Island, NY, so I wanted to replicate that type of landscape in the aquarium. It looks sparse at this point, which I like, but I am hoping that the dwarf baby tears will fill up that back dune once the CO2 is added, so I will then have one sandy dune with just the dwarf hair grass in the foreground and a more thicket-like, wilder-looking dune in the background.

I would eventually like to add 2 more Amano shrimp, 5 Red Cherry shrimp (Neocaridina denticulata sinensis) and perhaps one of the freshwater crabs (Unca sp.) I have been lusting after at Petco recently, although their PH requirements may be prohibitively high for this particular tank. I would love to hear your thoughts on this!




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Retired moderator :)
Retired Moderator ⚒️
Aug 10, 2005
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Miami, FL
I thought I put up my recently dismantled scape. This is the second scape for this 8g tank and you can follow its development in its journal. Lljdma06's Nano; Scape #2 . And it is certainly not the last scape for this wonderful little tank!

Lljdma06's 8g Nano


Tank 8g, 16.5"x 11.5"x 10", Finnex brand seamless front aquarium. Unfortunately discontinued! :sad:

Filtration Aquaclear 50 (3 sponges for media). Surface agitation was a goodly amount of small ripples for gas exchange.

Lighting PC, 24W, 7100K Finnex brand fixture (came with the aquarium). Photoperiod between 6-8 hours. Started the tank with as little as four hours.

CO2 2, Nutrafin canisters setup via t-connector. Mix (10tbs of sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast, 1/4 baking soda). Mix changed alternate days. Difused with Rhinox 1000 glass difusor from Aquaticmagic and CO2 measured with Chameleon dropchecker. Maintained apple green or yellowish

Substrate layer of laterite capped with very fine white sand from Carib sea

Fertilisation 5ml TPN+ dosed almost daily. This tank was a little guzzler.

Water chemistry I have no clue. Not good for stemplants, though. Tank was unheated.

Maintenance 2.5g water change 2-3x a week.

Fish Otoclinus affinis, Boraras maculatus, Boraras merah, Erethistes jerdoni, Limnopilos naiyanetri.

Plants After an initial heavy-stem planting, the final scape featured; Susswassertag, weeping moss, fissidens frontalis, anubias petite nana, cryptocoryne parva (I think), Hydrocotyle verticillata, Marsilea minuta, Eleocharis species (Dwarf Hairgrass), Nymphaea lotus (dwarf daughter bulb)

Decor Old black wood, small pieces of mopani for the susswassertag

Additional comments I initially wanted to create another Dutch scape like this tank's first scape which is also in this Member's section, but it didn't work out that way. The dominant feature of this tank eventually became a moss wall constructed using the method illustrated in this thread. My first tank was a high-tech setup, but I tend to favor low-tech, non-CO2 tanks. This was my first high-tech setup since around 2006. Another dominant feature was the use of Hydrocotyle verticillata, which grows naturally in my yard in South Florida. The terrestrial plant responded extremely well to submerged growth. This was also my first tank that featured invertebrates.

My water chemistry has changed quite a bit and my initial planting with stemplants went poorly. I do not think I even needed them as the moss wall really took up a lot of plant mass and there was quickly a balance between nutrients, light, and CO2. The tank settled into predominantly a rhizome, moss, liverwort scape with some hairgrass and other plant accents. Not very Dutch, but it suited me fine.

What was unsucessful about the scape...
1. I did not trim the moss frequently enough. It grew and grew and grew. Eventually, it created packed dead spots = ammonia = algae. The irony was that I had constructed the wall specifically to be very easy to remove and maintain. I just got too busy. I know for next time.
2. I did not replace a bottle of TPN+ fast enough and I had to dose lean during late December and January. Bad idea. The lack of nitrates caused a problem with BGA.
3. I was lazy with my waterchanges around late December Early January = ammonia build-up = algae.
4. I do not think I will even bother with laterite in the next scape. IMO not necessary, especially since I was doing so much water column dosing and using rhizome and attached plants.

What was successful about this scape...
1. The overall final scape. It had an enchanted forest feel to it, especially with the hydrocotyle
2. The moss wall. Wonderful growth in a fraction of the time. I will use this idea again.
3. Pearling. I have never been sucessful with pearling. This tank pearled frequently, especially the rhizome plants.
4. Livestock choice. Whimsical and unusual. Thank you Frank Greco.
5. Overall maintenance until the end of December/January.
6. One of my first scapes where my equipment was neatly put away or unobtrusive.





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