eggo
Fish Crazy
Malawi Mbuna for beginners
ok hi guys, i've been thinking about doing this for a bit now. something all new members that are new to malawi mbuna could look at for a point of reference, one thing i found when starting was there's tons of info on lots of site's and i thought it would be cool to bring it all to one place were its easier for people to locate.
Tank size
firstly if your thinking about starting a mbuna setup the size of ya tank dose matter, unlike what your wife tells you size realy dose matter the bigger the better. at a min size would be 4ft 220L but if you wish to keep dwarf mbuna in a 3ft 180L tank you can do that but be warned over stocking a 180L tank will probably mean a lot of work for you and probably some un happy fish. in a 180L aim for no more then about 10 to 15 fish in a 4ft 220L tank about 20 to 25 the idea is to keep the tank stocked to reduce the agression in the tank. also the length is more important then hight in my opinion.
Filtration
theres no such thing has too much filtration were mbuna are concerned they thrive in clean water, externals are best for many reasons like more room in tank ect. when buying an external filter go over the top never under, for instance if your tank is 4ft 220L get a 400L filter or bigger, the fish will love you for it.
Substrate
Choosing the right sand
The choice of sand is very important. Some sand will have no effect on water chemistry while some will buffer the GH/KH and/or pH. In addition, the cost and availability of the sand may also have an influence on your choice.
We can divide sand materials commonly used in two category: silica based sand and calcium based sand. The first category of sand should have no influence on the water chemistry while the other will buffer the pH and/or GH/KH. An African cichlid tank will probably benefit from calcium based sand while American cichlid tank will do much better with a sand what wont change the water chemistry.
If unsure, the best thing to do is to test the sand before to use it. To do so, simply put some sand in a jar with water and test the water after a few days.
Silica-based sand
The types of silica sand typically used in aquarium are play sand, pool filter sand (sold for use in swimming pool filters), sandblasting sand, and some other sand labeled for use in freshwater aquariums. The grain size and shape may vary from one to an other but at the end, they are all silica sand.
Play sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Should be (assuming it is pure quartz). May contain calcium carbonate which may raise your pH undesirably.
Organic : No
Advantages:Look very natural and is cheap. The particles in play sand are usually too small and have very sharp edges.
Inconvenient: The particles are really small and can get sucked into the filtration system and completely destroy pumps in hours. So make sure to keep your pumps away from the substrate.
Pool Filtration Sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Yes
Organic : No
Advantages:The grain is smooth and round: no sharp edges. Even if it gets into your filtration system, it is not nearly as destructive as other type of sand. The best part of pool filter sand is the appearance; it looks very natural and the fish seem to love it. It is heavier than play sand. Pool filter sand is generally clean so less need to wash it before to add it to the tank.
Inconvenients: May be expensive.
Sandblasting sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Yes. Assuming the silica sand you obtain is pure quartz, it is no more soluble than the glass (also a silicate) that makes up your fish tank.
Organic : No
Advantages: Can be purchased in different grades that would allow for a large enough grain to ensure it would not be sucked into a filter.
Inconvenient: The main problem with sandblasting sand is cost (50 pounds can be around $100)
Calcium-based sand
Unless I am wrong, most calcium-based sand on the market are actually made of crushed coral, also known as aragonite. They are usually available in various grain size, from very small to very big. Aragonite sand is commonly used to buffer the water in African cichlid tanks and saltwater aquarium.
Coral or Aragonite sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Should be. May contain calcium carbonate which may raise your pH undesirably.
Organic : No. Will buffer your pH.
Advantages: A good choice if you need to stabilize your PH or improve your buffering capacity.
Inconvenient: It is fairly expensive.
Washing the sand
Whatever the sand you chose it is very important to wash it before to use it. Some sand such as pool filtration sand might not need to be washed as much as play sand but still, it is always a good idea to give it a good wash. If you dont, chances are to cloud the water. Washing the sand is easy. Simply put the sand in a pillow case or a large paint strainer (my personal favorite) and run the hose in it.
Conclusion
Once weve decided if the substrate should buffer the water or not, there is no much choice left. At this point, price, the grain size and the color are the main feature to look at. My personal favorite is play sand simply because it look natural and its cheap. if your tap ph is low coral sand will help to higher your ph, thought i should mention that.
Rock options
mbuna meens rock dweller so it stands to reason your going to need some, theres ocean rock (my fave) slate or limestone(will higher your ph lvl), take a small sample of White vinegar with you when you buying rock, put some on the rock if it fizz's then it means the stone will buffer your ph. prepare the tank glass bottom for the weight of the rock by first placing either Styrofoam or lighting grid(egg crate) directly on the glass before you place the rocks down. This will help distribute the weight of the rock more evenly and will prevent the toppling of rocks that have been dug out by the fish. Once the main rocks have been placed on the base, cover the base with sand or fine gravel. How high you place the rockwork is up to you, however care should be taken as to secure the rocks so that they do not fall or place too much stress on the back glass of the tank. The rockwork should be arranged in such a way as to provide passageways and caves to serve as shelter/spawning sites/territorial markers for the fish. There are also other materials you can use as decoration in Malawi cichlid tanks. One such material is clay pots or pipes. These can be very attractive in the aquarium and provide excellent shelter for the fish. Terra Cotta pots tend to be the best for aquarium use. Another material often used is PVC piping. Although not as attractive as clay pots, this piping can provide frameworks of passageways that the fish really love. The pipes can also be painted so they are not such an eyesore. Occasionally, real wood is used as decoration. The advantage of real wood is that it is lighter than rock and often comes in interesting shapes and sizes to create a really nice effect in the home aquarium. The disadvantage of wood in the Malawi cichlid aquarium is that real wood tends to lower pH, which is the opposite of what is desired. However, if there is enough buffering material in the aquarium, the wood s effects will be minimal. Another material that can be used is brick. Many bricks come with various patterns and holes drilled in them that provide excellent passageways for fish while maintaining superior stability in the aquarium when they are properly stacked. There are also countless types of rocks that can be used like lace rock and slate that add structure to the tanks rockwork while adding a touch of variety.
The Background
The background is probably the most important item of the tank decoration, but many aquarists do not recognise this. The easiest form of background is either painting the back of the tank or buying a wall chart with a motive on it. However, by far the best way is to use an intank background. You can either make your own one from styrofoam (this is a versatile material) or (if you can afford it) buy a "Back to nature" background.This is an artificial background developed in Sweden that looks exactly like a real rock.
Water Tempreture
In the wild, Malawi Cichlids live in water temperatures of around 24-26 C or 76-79 F. An attempt should be made to keep the aquarium s water temperature around these levels. Lake Malawi cichlids do not stand high temperatures very well; an effort should be made to locate the aquarium away from any sunny windows/space heaters, which could cause the water to overheat. Generally speaking, the higher the temperature of the water, the higher will be the metabolism of the fish, hence more food should be provided to maintain their activity level and ensure proper health. Even if you live in warm climates, it is recommended you use an aquarium heater in your home aquarium as this helps prevent any fluctuations in water temperature which can lead to stress in the fish.
Plants
Plants in the Malawi Cichlid aquarium can work but be aware that most Malawi cichlids are diggers and occasionally will taste plants, especially if those cichlids are in the mbuna group. Plants that usually do well in African tanks are Valisneria, Anubias and Java fern. The last two are especially good as they can be tied to a rock or a piece of wood and will grow directly on that, therefore eliminating the possibility of being uprooted by the fish. In addition, they are tough plants with a rather nasty taste to the fish.
Water ph
Alkaline. The pH of a Malawi tank should be somewhere between 7.8 and 8.5. my tap water sits at 8 for intance.
GH / KH
A GH value over 10 is a good starting point (moderately hard water). KH values are not so crucial for the well being of the Malawi cichlid but it can help a lot to keep the pH stable even if something goes wrong (carbon dioxide injection or overfeeding). A KH value of 8-10 is a sure bet.
Lighting
If you do not have any plants in your aquarium (there are no plants in a genuine mbuna biotope) the lighting is not important. One or two fluorescent tubes is enough The fishes actually show their colors better in dim light. If you have plants in your aquarium, more light is necessary and in large tanks (more than 70 cm deep) metallhalogene-lamps are an expensive but good alternative to fluorescent tubes. These lamps make a difference in your aquarium, which is worth the extra expenses. Pesonally I use a marine whie/blue, they have a pleasent glow and brings out the colour's of my fish.
Water Movement & Surface Agitation
Both of these are a must!
Water movement: Can be achieved by using the filters outlets and the use of either a wavemaker or powerhead.
Surface Agitation: This is very important as breaking the waters surface will result in aerating the water! (Wavemakers/powerheads and filter outlets can do this or a air stone or two)
Wavemakers can also be used for pushing waste towards the filters inlets.
Aggression
This is an unpleasant characteristic of the African cichlids from Lake Malawi. Almost all species are territorial and most of them intolerant of (at least) their own species. In the limited space of the aquarium it is not advisable to have more than one male from species like Melanochromis, some Pseudotropheus, Nimbochromis, Protomelas and many others, unless a very big tank is available (more than 1.000 liters). In some very aggressive species even the females show a territorial behaviour (Melanochromis auratus and Melanochromis chipokae are characteristic examples). Sometimes, the aggression of the male is directed against any similarly colored fish (especially between Aulonocara species).
Some ways to reduce aggression in the context of the aquarium are a) the use of dither fish or b)an overcrowded aquarium. The dither fish is quick fish that can become the target of the aggression of cichlids but can escape because of their speed. The overcrowded tank is based on the theory that when too many fishes are in the same tank no territories can be established therefore aggression is minimized. Generally speaking it is a good advice to carefully select the fish you plan to put in your tank. Aggressive fish should be kept with fish of similar temperament or larger species that can defend themselves. Another point to consider is that latest additions will have a much harder time finding their place in your tank so they better be the most aggressive species you plan to keep. Adding the fish just before lights go off is a good alternative. For the newcomers to these cichlids it should be noted that aggression doesn't mean just chasing around the tank; it means killing the intruder.
as an idea these mbuna are less aggresive and ideal for the beginner. based on a 4ft tank.
5x Labidochromis caeruleus (Elec yellow) 1 male 4 females
5x Iodotropheus sprengerae(rustys) 1 male 4 females
5x Pseudotropheus saulosi 1 male 4 females
5x Cynotilapia Afra (Jalo reef) 1 male 4 females
5x Labeotropheus Trawavasae Chiofu 1 male 4 females
2x Bristlenose plec's
plec's arnt part of the comunity but great at keeping the alge down in your tank.
Feeding
In the lake, mbunas feed both from the biocover, (algae that covers the rocks) as well as plankton in the free water, but in an aquarium they will eat everything you give them. All food is not good for mbunas. I feed my fishes with New Life spectrum dinechi colour suprem spiraline flacks and as treats peas chopped and cucumber. Another important thing is not to overfeed. Adult fishes should be fed once or twice per day and not too much. If they are overfed, they grow fat and will seize to spawn.
With thanks
ok hi guys, i've been thinking about doing this for a bit now. something all new members that are new to malawi mbuna could look at for a point of reference, one thing i found when starting was there's tons of info on lots of site's and i thought it would be cool to bring it all to one place were its easier for people to locate.
Tank size
firstly if your thinking about starting a mbuna setup the size of ya tank dose matter, unlike what your wife tells you size realy dose matter the bigger the better. at a min size would be 4ft 220L but if you wish to keep dwarf mbuna in a 3ft 180L tank you can do that but be warned over stocking a 180L tank will probably mean a lot of work for you and probably some un happy fish. in a 180L aim for no more then about 10 to 15 fish in a 4ft 220L tank about 20 to 25 the idea is to keep the tank stocked to reduce the agression in the tank. also the length is more important then hight in my opinion.
Filtration
theres no such thing has too much filtration were mbuna are concerned they thrive in clean water, externals are best for many reasons like more room in tank ect. when buying an external filter go over the top never under, for instance if your tank is 4ft 220L get a 400L filter or bigger, the fish will love you for it.
Substrate
Choosing the right sand
The choice of sand is very important. Some sand will have no effect on water chemistry while some will buffer the GH/KH and/or pH. In addition, the cost and availability of the sand may also have an influence on your choice.
We can divide sand materials commonly used in two category: silica based sand and calcium based sand. The first category of sand should have no influence on the water chemistry while the other will buffer the pH and/or GH/KH. An African cichlid tank will probably benefit from calcium based sand while American cichlid tank will do much better with a sand what wont change the water chemistry.
If unsure, the best thing to do is to test the sand before to use it. To do so, simply put some sand in a jar with water and test the water after a few days.
Silica-based sand
The types of silica sand typically used in aquarium are play sand, pool filter sand (sold for use in swimming pool filters), sandblasting sand, and some other sand labeled for use in freshwater aquariums. The grain size and shape may vary from one to an other but at the end, they are all silica sand.
Play sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Should be (assuming it is pure quartz). May contain calcium carbonate which may raise your pH undesirably.
Organic : No
Advantages:Look very natural and is cheap. The particles in play sand are usually too small and have very sharp edges.
Inconvenient: The particles are really small and can get sucked into the filtration system and completely destroy pumps in hours. So make sure to keep your pumps away from the substrate.
Pool Filtration Sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Yes
Organic : No
Advantages:The grain is smooth and round: no sharp edges. Even if it gets into your filtration system, it is not nearly as destructive as other type of sand. The best part of pool filter sand is the appearance; it looks very natural and the fish seem to love it. It is heavier than play sand. Pool filter sand is generally clean so less need to wash it before to add it to the tank.
Inconvenients: May be expensive.
Sandblasting sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Yes. Assuming the silica sand you obtain is pure quartz, it is no more soluble than the glass (also a silicate) that makes up your fish tank.
Organic : No
Advantages: Can be purchased in different grades that would allow for a large enough grain to ensure it would not be sucked into a filter.
Inconvenient: The main problem with sandblasting sand is cost (50 pounds can be around $100)
Calcium-based sand
Unless I am wrong, most calcium-based sand on the market are actually made of crushed coral, also known as aragonite. They are usually available in various grain size, from very small to very big. Aragonite sand is commonly used to buffer the water in African cichlid tanks and saltwater aquarium.
Coral or Aragonite sand
CEC : Low
Inert : Should be. May contain calcium carbonate which may raise your pH undesirably.
Organic : No. Will buffer your pH.
Advantages: A good choice if you need to stabilize your PH or improve your buffering capacity.
Inconvenient: It is fairly expensive.
Washing the sand
Whatever the sand you chose it is very important to wash it before to use it. Some sand such as pool filtration sand might not need to be washed as much as play sand but still, it is always a good idea to give it a good wash. If you dont, chances are to cloud the water. Washing the sand is easy. Simply put the sand in a pillow case or a large paint strainer (my personal favorite) and run the hose in it.
Conclusion
Once weve decided if the substrate should buffer the water or not, there is no much choice left. At this point, price, the grain size and the color are the main feature to look at. My personal favorite is play sand simply because it look natural and its cheap. if your tap ph is low coral sand will help to higher your ph, thought i should mention that.
Rock options
mbuna meens rock dweller so it stands to reason your going to need some, theres ocean rock (my fave) slate or limestone(will higher your ph lvl), take a small sample of White vinegar with you when you buying rock, put some on the rock if it fizz's then it means the stone will buffer your ph. prepare the tank glass bottom for the weight of the rock by first placing either Styrofoam or lighting grid(egg crate) directly on the glass before you place the rocks down. This will help distribute the weight of the rock more evenly and will prevent the toppling of rocks that have been dug out by the fish. Once the main rocks have been placed on the base, cover the base with sand or fine gravel. How high you place the rockwork is up to you, however care should be taken as to secure the rocks so that they do not fall or place too much stress on the back glass of the tank. The rockwork should be arranged in such a way as to provide passageways and caves to serve as shelter/spawning sites/territorial markers for the fish. There are also other materials you can use as decoration in Malawi cichlid tanks. One such material is clay pots or pipes. These can be very attractive in the aquarium and provide excellent shelter for the fish. Terra Cotta pots tend to be the best for aquarium use. Another material often used is PVC piping. Although not as attractive as clay pots, this piping can provide frameworks of passageways that the fish really love. The pipes can also be painted so they are not such an eyesore. Occasionally, real wood is used as decoration. The advantage of real wood is that it is lighter than rock and often comes in interesting shapes and sizes to create a really nice effect in the home aquarium. The disadvantage of wood in the Malawi cichlid aquarium is that real wood tends to lower pH, which is the opposite of what is desired. However, if there is enough buffering material in the aquarium, the wood s effects will be minimal. Another material that can be used is brick. Many bricks come with various patterns and holes drilled in them that provide excellent passageways for fish while maintaining superior stability in the aquarium when they are properly stacked. There are also countless types of rocks that can be used like lace rock and slate that add structure to the tanks rockwork while adding a touch of variety.
The Background
The background is probably the most important item of the tank decoration, but many aquarists do not recognise this. The easiest form of background is either painting the back of the tank or buying a wall chart with a motive on it. However, by far the best way is to use an intank background. You can either make your own one from styrofoam (this is a versatile material) or (if you can afford it) buy a "Back to nature" background.This is an artificial background developed in Sweden that looks exactly like a real rock.
Water Tempreture
In the wild, Malawi Cichlids live in water temperatures of around 24-26 C or 76-79 F. An attempt should be made to keep the aquarium s water temperature around these levels. Lake Malawi cichlids do not stand high temperatures very well; an effort should be made to locate the aquarium away from any sunny windows/space heaters, which could cause the water to overheat. Generally speaking, the higher the temperature of the water, the higher will be the metabolism of the fish, hence more food should be provided to maintain their activity level and ensure proper health. Even if you live in warm climates, it is recommended you use an aquarium heater in your home aquarium as this helps prevent any fluctuations in water temperature which can lead to stress in the fish.
Plants
Plants in the Malawi Cichlid aquarium can work but be aware that most Malawi cichlids are diggers and occasionally will taste plants, especially if those cichlids are in the mbuna group. Plants that usually do well in African tanks are Valisneria, Anubias and Java fern. The last two are especially good as they can be tied to a rock or a piece of wood and will grow directly on that, therefore eliminating the possibility of being uprooted by the fish. In addition, they are tough plants with a rather nasty taste to the fish.
Water ph
Alkaline. The pH of a Malawi tank should be somewhere between 7.8 and 8.5. my tap water sits at 8 for intance.
GH / KH
A GH value over 10 is a good starting point (moderately hard water). KH values are not so crucial for the well being of the Malawi cichlid but it can help a lot to keep the pH stable even if something goes wrong (carbon dioxide injection or overfeeding). A KH value of 8-10 is a sure bet.
Lighting
If you do not have any plants in your aquarium (there are no plants in a genuine mbuna biotope) the lighting is not important. One or two fluorescent tubes is enough The fishes actually show their colors better in dim light. If you have plants in your aquarium, more light is necessary and in large tanks (more than 70 cm deep) metallhalogene-lamps are an expensive but good alternative to fluorescent tubes. These lamps make a difference in your aquarium, which is worth the extra expenses. Pesonally I use a marine whie/blue, they have a pleasent glow and brings out the colour's of my fish.
Water Movement & Surface Agitation
Both of these are a must!
Water movement: Can be achieved by using the filters outlets and the use of either a wavemaker or powerhead.
Surface Agitation: This is very important as breaking the waters surface will result in aerating the water! (Wavemakers/powerheads and filter outlets can do this or a air stone or two)
Wavemakers can also be used for pushing waste towards the filters inlets.
Aggression
This is an unpleasant characteristic of the African cichlids from Lake Malawi. Almost all species are territorial and most of them intolerant of (at least) their own species. In the limited space of the aquarium it is not advisable to have more than one male from species like Melanochromis, some Pseudotropheus, Nimbochromis, Protomelas and many others, unless a very big tank is available (more than 1.000 liters). In some very aggressive species even the females show a territorial behaviour (Melanochromis auratus and Melanochromis chipokae are characteristic examples). Sometimes, the aggression of the male is directed against any similarly colored fish (especially between Aulonocara species).
Some ways to reduce aggression in the context of the aquarium are a) the use of dither fish or b)an overcrowded aquarium. The dither fish is quick fish that can become the target of the aggression of cichlids but can escape because of their speed. The overcrowded tank is based on the theory that when too many fishes are in the same tank no territories can be established therefore aggression is minimized. Generally speaking it is a good advice to carefully select the fish you plan to put in your tank. Aggressive fish should be kept with fish of similar temperament or larger species that can defend themselves. Another point to consider is that latest additions will have a much harder time finding their place in your tank so they better be the most aggressive species you plan to keep. Adding the fish just before lights go off is a good alternative. For the newcomers to these cichlids it should be noted that aggression doesn't mean just chasing around the tank; it means killing the intruder.
as an idea these mbuna are less aggresive and ideal for the beginner. based on a 4ft tank.
5x Labidochromis caeruleus (Elec yellow) 1 male 4 females
5x Iodotropheus sprengerae(rustys) 1 male 4 females
5x Pseudotropheus saulosi 1 male 4 females
5x Cynotilapia Afra (Jalo reef) 1 male 4 females
5x Labeotropheus Trawavasae Chiofu 1 male 4 females
2x Bristlenose plec's
plec's arnt part of the comunity but great at keeping the alge down in your tank.
Feeding
In the lake, mbunas feed both from the biocover, (algae that covers the rocks) as well as plankton in the free water, but in an aquarium they will eat everything you give them. All food is not good for mbunas. I feed my fishes with New Life spectrum dinechi colour suprem spiraline flacks and as treats peas chopped and cucumber. Another important thing is not to overfeed. Adult fishes should be fed once or twice per day and not too much. If they are overfed, they grow fat and will seize to spawn.
With thanks
