Hello,
I've been thinking about this one some more... (does this show how bad the telly was over christmas or just how sad I really am!)
Just a few more general suggestions if I may.
It is possible that the ballast is still OK and your lack of light might be due to general corrosion problems.
If you feel happy to "have a go" then you'll need a multimeter. You can pick up cheap ones for about a fiver from DIY shops or Ebay. Simple tests can save you money... A multimeter has a several other uses as well. A useful tool for anyone to have.
As long as it has resistance ranges, it matters not if it is digital or analogue. I personally prefer analogue for this type of thing. Some meters have a built in buzzer for diode checks which can be used as a continuity checker.
Unplug the lights from the mains.. Don't just switch off.... UNPLUG!!
Open the lighting unit and ensure that it is totally dry before proceeding (paper towel and a cool hair dryer can help here.).
Now see if you can trace the incoming mains cable from the plug to the lights. The Live lead will probably go to a switch or a fuse carrier.
Switch on the meter, and set the dial to the lowest ohms range (or buzzer/diode test etc.). Short the test probes together to see what a full short "looks like". An analogue meter will have a zero adjust control. Adjust to give a fsd (full scale deflection i.e. to show 0 ohms.)
Hold (or clip or get a helper to do so) one of the test leads onto the live pin on the plug (bottom left pin as you look at the pins, with the lead exiting the plug downwards). Touch the other probe to the live wire termination in the lights (at the switch, fuse etc.)
If you cannot access the switch terminals, try where the wire returns from the switch to the ballast/starter etc.) You might need to operate the switch to obtain a circuit. If you get a low resistance reading **through** the switch (make sure it goes high resistance when the switch is operated again), then this proves the live connection from the plug pin to the lights.
Repeat with the neutral connection. (this may or may not go the switch). Then repeat with the earth connection. Be careful here. I would say that the earth connection (if fitted and required) is the **most** important one. If there is any trace of corrosion here, then remove the connection, clean thoroughly and remake. It will probably be bolted to the metalwork or in a connector block if it is required.
Assuming all tests OK so far then you have proved the wiring from the plug to the lighting unit.
Now see if you can see the where the wiring goes inside the light unit. A common point of failure is the connections to the (if fitted) starter (the cylindrical bayonet mounted removeable item. See http
/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-FS-U-FLUORESCENT-TUBE-LIGHT-STARTER-4W-65W-UK-NEW-/200825908061?pt=UK_Light_Fittings&hash=item2ec2282b5d for an example).
Trace the wiring and check for low resistance. Corrosion here can stop the lights from working. Be aware that you will not have any starters if your ballasts are electronic. Clean any connections as required.
Now examine the connections to the ballast. These are normally either screw connections or "push in wiring" types. You will probably also find a circuit diagram here. This will show how the tubes are connected. Now prove the wiring to the tubes from the ballast. Remove the tubes and touch one test probe to one of the tube connections on the ballast and the other to one of the contacts in the tube socket. Note that there are normally two connections to each end of each tube. So if no continuity is indicated, then try the other contact (or socket if the wiring is "confusing").
There is a small chance that there is only one wire connection to each end of the tube (this requires a specific type of electronic ballast). I doubt that this applies here.. anyway, the presence of starters in your setup indicates that magnetic ballasts are used (four wire to each tube).
If there appears to be corrosion on the ballast itself, then remove the wiring (do one wire at a time...saves mistakes!). If the connection is the push in type, you might need a small screwdriver etc. pushed into the connection to relieve the spring pressure. Be gentle here!
If all of the connections are OK, ensure that they are sound by **gently** tugging on them.. You don't want loose connections!
You can now do a basic continuity test on the tube heaters. Connect your meter test probes to the two prongs one one end of the tube. Note the resistance.. It will probably be about 5 - 20 ohms (ymmv). Repeat the test with the other end of the tube and then with the other tube. You should find similar values for each end. If any of the results show a (very) high or infinite reading then your tube is failing/is faulty. This can (depending on the exact ballast design) cause both lights to fail to strike (light).
If the problem was corrosion and the ballast (and starter, if fitted) is/are not fried, then your lights should work now.
Your next problem is to stop this problem happening again. Can you supply a photo or two of your lights (and surrounds etc.)
If you can, then I can hopefully give some suggestions as to what to do next.
Now that I've bored everyone rigid, I'll go and feed the fish.
I hope that this is of use to somebody!!
Bodge99
