Leaking Fluval Filter

[Crossfire]

Woke up this morning to about one to two cups of water inside my aquarium cabinet. Shut off electronics, cleaned up the water. Couldn't exactly say where from the filter it was leaking from. 
 
Opened filter, checked everything. No visible cracks or holes or such. Took out the rubber seal and placed it back in making sure it was even. Closed the filter up, pulled down lever, but I still heard air hissing out. Pulled lever up, re-opened filter, re-sealed with rubber ring. 
 
This time the air was less loud, but still hissing out. Water seems to leaking from the front, left clasp. Not a lot. A droplet at a time. Still highly concerning. 
 
How do I fix this? What's broken, what am I not doing right?
 
If all else fails, I have a back-up HOB to use.
 
Thank you.
 
EDIT: it's not a Fluval at all, I had a brain fart. It is in fact a Filstar by API.
EDIT AGAIN: Still nothing I do fixes the leak. I've started looking at replacement filters. Trying not to order anything online as I leave for college in 2 days, so anything I can buy at a store would be great. Looking for something with a spray bar.

 

[Crossfire]

If anyone could help, that'd be great......

 

[TwoTankAmin]

 
>Filter leaks from the main seal

Check to make sure that all four clamps are properly closed.
Make sure the filter is no more then 55" (140 cm) below the water level. If it is deeper, raise the filter.
Make sure the O-ring is not damaged or twisted.
Make sure there is no gravel or other solid object between the canister and the O-ring.
Check the top edge of the filter for any chips, or cracks.

from http/www.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/AP7315.pdf

 

[Crossfire]

 

 
>Filter leaks from the main seal
Check to make sure that all four clamps are properly closed.  Check. All four clamps close perfectly.
Make sure the filter is no more then 55" (140 cm) below the water level. If it is deeper, raise the filter. Check.
Make sure the O-ring is not damaged or twisted. O-Ring is fit in as snugly as possible, smooth side up, evenly throughout. 
Make sure there is no gravel or other solid object between the canister and the O-ring. No foreign objects were discovered.
Check the top edge of the filter for any chips, or cracks. Checked thoroughly on all sides. No visible cracks or chips encountered.

from http/www.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/AP7315.pdf
 

 
After doing these checks, I restarted the filter. I still heard air hissing out, and air continues to hiss but no leaks at all so far. Not one drop. Highly strange. Will keep checking for leaks. 

 

[techen]

Pick up filter, Shake it, tilt it. Give it some good wiggles and see if the air goes away.

 

[Crossfire]

Okay it has begun to leak again. I managed to identify the source of the leaks:

 

[techen]

Well I thought this was a Fluval but reading again its a APB it's nothing new for leaking canister. Such a known issue by there brand.
 
I'd replace the o-ring at best but something tells me that wont be the issue, There just cheaply made filter and there customer support isn't that great at all.
 
I'd throw the HOB on and look for a different brand 

 

[Crossfire]

Thanks Techen, I feared that would be the answer.
 
This filter model really does suck. It didn't even come with a spray bar as advertised.
 
I will definitely go with an Eheim. I want a Classic, but the only store that has them is an hours drive and they like to overcharge. Other option is the National Geographic canister from petsmart, which is actually just a re-labelled Eheim Ecco. Only that's more expensive and has no spray bar.....

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Oddly, I bought a couple of well used Filstars. They were running at the time and had been for a number of years and they were not leaking. I have always refused to consider buying Fluvals for a similar reason as stated by techen. I uess we all have one canister we dislike for whatever reasons. The other thing is over time the manufacturers change things trying to save money and increase profits. So the top filter a decade ago can now be junk and vice versa. One of the best canisters out there, Eheim, can also develop similar leaks. I know I own several.
 
Since leaking via the main gasket is not uncommon with canisters, there are a number of tricks now that one can use to help prevent/fix it. But in the end, these are rubber or similar materials which can degrade, especially if allowed to get really dry. Here is one thing to try. Remove the gasket and rinse and then wipe it dry with paper towels. Try not to stretch it. When done, get some vaseline and coat the gasket with a minimal amount. This may restore a bit of flexibility and help make it seal. When I clean my Eheims I tend to keep the gasket moist if I can. Another trick is to reverse the gasket so the side that was on top is now on the bottom.
 
That Fluval links has a section on air in the filter but I think that was not for hissing type air coming out, but air trapped in the filter. I did not read it all.

 

[Crossfire]

Oddly, I bought a couple of well used Filstars. They were running at the time and had been for a number of years and they were not leaking. I have always refused to consider buying Fluvals for a similar reason as stated by techen. I uess we all have one canister we dislike for whatever reasons. The other thing is over time the manufacturers change things trying to save money and increase profits. So the top filter a decade ago can now be junk and vice versa. One of the best canisters out there, Eheim, can also develop similar leaks. I know I own several.
 
Since leaking via the main gasket is not uncommon with canisters, there are a number of tricks now that one can use to help prevent/fix it. But in the end, these are rubber or similar materials which can degrade, especially if allowed to get really dry. Here is one thing to try. Remove the gasket and rinse and then wipe it dry with paper towels. Try not to stretch it. When done, get some vaseline and coat the gasket with a minimal amount. This may restore a bit of flexibility and help make it seal. When I clean my Eheims I tend to keep the gasket moist if I can. Another trick is to reverse the gasket so the side that was on top is now on the bottom.
 
That Fluval links has a section on air in the filter but I think that was not for hissing type air coming out, but air trapped in the filter. I did not read it all.

 
Thank you. 
 
Again, the filter is an API Filstar, not Fluval. Sorry about the misleading title.
 
I tried wetting the O-ring, applied some petroleum jelly, alas it still leaks. I'm going to have to go spring for a new filter. 
 
I'm looking at Eheims, the National Geographic one aka a black Ecco or the Classic. The Ecco would be easier to get, but I can go for the hour's drive for the Classic. Which is better? I know the Classic has the spray bar.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I am partial to the old Pro II line. But alas Eheim is now on the Pro 3 line. Over the summer I managed to find 3 NIB Pro IIs on Ebay and I snatched them up. Because I have multiple tanks I try to standardize my equipment. Almost 100% of my 25 or so running power filters are assorted size AquaClear and my canisters are Pro IIs. This makes having spare parts on hand a lot easier and cheaper.
 
One of the things I like about Eheims is they get it in terms of flow rate (aka contact time) and media space. The latter is more important for sure. The longer the water is in contact with the media, the more effective that media will be. Many people rely on a single filter for both the filtering abilities and the circulation needs of a tank. This means that they have higher flow rates than are optimal for the actual filtration work. Eheims tend to focus on media capacity over higher flow rates. This is why folks doing sophisticated planted tanks will often use a filter and then an added powerhead to help with circulation.
 
I would go with the bigger canister between the two and I do like spray bars. However, they are easy to make or adapt to units that normally do not have them. I have H.O.T. Magnums adapted to use spraybar outputs.
 
But before you spend for a new filter, is it worth looking into replacing the head gasket on the Filstar? And sorry I typed Fluval above re the air in the filter when I meant API. That info is indeed on the API site I linked earlier.

 

[Crossfire]

I am partial to the old Pro II line. But alas Eheim is now on the Pro 3 line. Over the summer I managed to find 3 NIB Pro IIs on Ebay and I snatched them up. Because I have multiple tanks I try to standardize my equipment. Almost 100% of my 25 or so running power filters are assorted size AquaClear and my canisters are Pro IIs. This makes having spare parts on hand a lot easier and cheaper.
 
One of the things I like about Eheims is they get it in terms of flow rate (aka contact time) and media space. The latter is more important for sure. The longer the water is in contact with the media, the more effective that media will be. Many people rely on a single filter for both the filtering abilities and the circulation needs of a tank. This means that they have higher flow rates than are optimal for the actual filtration work. Eheims tend to focus on media capacity over higher flow rates. This is why folks doing sophisticated planted tanks will often use a filter and then an added powerhead to help with circulation.
 
I would go with the bigger canister between the two and I do like spray bars. However, they are easy to make or adapt to units that normally do not have them. I have H.O.T. Magnums adapted to use spraybar outputs.
 
But before you spend for a new filter, is it worth looking into replacing the head gasket on the Filstar? And sorry I typed Fluval above re the air in the filter when I meant API. That info is indeed on the API site I linked earlier.

 
Well, the issue is that I leave for college on Thursday. If I order anything, it will arrive after I'm gone. And it's not that my parents aren't smart, but I don't think they know a lot about filters. They'd mount it incorrectly or just do something wrong. And like Techen said, I'm afraid that fixing the filter won't last and it will leak again. I'll see what API has to offer in terms of gasket replacements.
 
I found a $10 gasket replacement part on Amazon. If I do next day shipping, it'll arrive in time (hopefully). Just to be sure, this is the correct part, right?  
 
And by bigger canister, did you mean the Ecco?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

The API site is pretty bad in terms of being helpful. It is almost discouraging enough for me to say get a new filter. I can not get the parts link to load the parts page, the manual fails to show all the parts and the contact page is bad as well. I can get zslow email type answers which wont help and they have an answering machine on the technical help line.
 
API needs to go study the Eheim pages.
 
I think maybe a safer bet is a new canister or hang on filter given your time constraints. At least you have the cycled media in the Rena.

 

[Crossfire]

The API site is pretty bad in terms of being helpful. It is almost discouraging enough for me to say get a new filter. I can not get the parts link to load the parts page, the manual fails to show all the parts and the contact page is bad as well. I can get zslow email type answers which wont help and they have an answering machine on the technical help line.
 
API needs to go study the Eheim pages.
 
I think maybe a safer bet is a new canister or hang on filter given your time constraints. At least you have the cycled media in the Rena.

Well, for the time being I went out to my LFS and got a new gasket. It was a whopping $20 for a piece of rubber.....my LFS loves to overcharge, but it's the only one around...*sigh*
 
If it leaks again, i will definitely get a new filter. My parents will give me a call and I'll come up for a weekend to go pick one up.