Just got a 20H and a Aquaclear 30...

Moreover, to know the exact pH of tank water, it is necessary to test 5 minutes before lighting is switched on and again 5 minutes before the lighting is switched off, then take the average of the two measurements.
 
They will ;) But you know pH rises during the day and falls at night, so to make sure it doesn't rise above 7 it is best to lower it to 6.5 for example.
Moreover, to know the exact pH of tank water, it is necessary to test 5 minutes before lighting is switched on and again 5 minutes before the lighting is switched off, then take the average of the two measurements.
Oh ok... A lot of the fish I want dont like a ph of 6.5... So maybe a 6.8 or something? Idk... This is becoming a hassle lol
 
Thats the exact set up I want besides acidic water... My water is neutral at a 7.0

Forget the pH. With the GH at 5-6 dGH (100 ppm mentioned earlier in this thread) the pH is most likely going to lower on its own as the tank becomes established. Let it do what it wants, it will make life much easier for you and the fish. Soft water fish will be fine at a pH in the neighbourhood of 7.0 but it will likely lower.

On the diurnal pH fluctuation which has been mentioned, this occurs in nature as well as the aquarium./ In a relatively heavily planted tank it will be more substantial a fluctuation and this is why very heavily planted tanks have to be monitored, as it is possible to poison the fish with CO2 during the night. Good surface disturbance should avoid this (unless diffused CO2 is being used, and not turned off at night). You really don't have to worry about this fluctuation. Fish are well able to manage the normal diurnal change...if they couldn't, there would not be any left alive by now. It is the more rapid and often substantial fluctuations caused by aquarists messing with the pH that is far more serious and deadly. Leave it alone.
 
As Byron said, Iriatherina wernerii is a beauty but a shy one that need a jungle to feel safe.
 
Hassle ?? Naaah ! Aquaria is a matter of patience...
 
I never knew ph does that in the day and night... I'm curious as to why ph does that?

Forget the pH. With the GH at 5-6 dGH (100 ppm mentioned earlier in this thread) the pH is most likely going to lower on its own as the tank becomes established. Let it do what it wants, it will make life much easier for you and the fish. Sofdt water fish will be fine at a pH in the neighbourhood of 7.0 but it will likely lower.
Ok.
Forget the pH. With the GH at 5-6 dGH (100 ppm mentioned earlier in this thread) the pH is most likely going to lower on its own as the tank becomes established. Let it do what it wants, it will make life much easier for you and the fish. Soft water fish will be fine at a pH in the neighbourhood of 7.0 but it will likely lower.

On the diurnal pH fluctuation which has been mentioned, this occurs in nature as well as the aquarium./ In a relatively heavily planted tank it will be more substantial a fluctuation and this is why very heavily planted tanks have to be monitored, as it is possible to poison the fish with CO2 during the night. Good surface disturbance should avoid this (unless diffused CO2 is being used, and not turned off at night). You really don't have to worry about this fluctuation. Fish are well able to manage the normal diurnal change...if they couldn't, there would not be any left alive by now. It is the more rapid and often substantial fluctuations caused by aquarists messing with the pH that is far more serious and deadly. Leave it alone.
Ok. So it isnt something I should have to worry about too much but I should keep an eye on it simply put...
 
Ok.

Ok. So it isnt something I should have to worry about too much but I should keep an eye on it simply put...
As pH KH and GH are related, check your pH once a week : if pH is rising, so does kH and GH. I call them "the devilish triplets" 😂
 
As pH KH and GH are related, check your pH once a week : if pH is rising, so does kH and GH. I call them "the devilish triplets" 😂
Oof... Well I guess I just always have those in stock for use...
 
Ok.

Ok. So it isnt something I should have to worry about too much but I should keep an eye on it simply put...

Once the aquarium is running with fish, checking the pH and nitrate should initially be done regularly. Just before the weekly water change is a good time, as that will tell you just what is occurring. Also test following the water change, maybe the next day, for a couple of changes, just in case something weird is occurring. Then test before the W/C, and once this has been done for a few weeks, and assuming you are getting the same results every test (which is the goal) then less often, maybe once a month, then eventually not at all as the consistent results will mean the biological system is settled. Provided the maintnance is regular (W/C's) and the fish load is suited to the tank, and you don't overfeed, and you avoid adding any chemicals/additives aside from water conditioner and (possibly, if needed) plant fertilizer, the tank should be fine.

Another thing with tests...always test at roughly the same time of day, and in natural light but not direct sunlight. Light is composed of colours, and all artificial light (bulbs, tubes, LED) can be vastly different even though it may be "white" light. This can affect the colours of tests. The time of day matters with pH for example due to the diurnal variation; testing in the morning each time will provide a better idea of the situation.
 
Once the aquarium is running with fish, checking the pH and nitrate should initially be done regularly. Just before the weekly water change is a good time, as that will tell you just what is occurring. Also test following the water change, maybe the next day, for a couple of changes, just in case something weird is occurring. Then test before the W/C, and once this has been done for a few weeks, and assuming you are getting the same results every test (which is the goal) then less often, maybe once a month, then eventually not at all as the consistent results will mean the biological system is settled. Provided the maintnance is regular (W/C's) and the fish load is suited to the tank, and you don't overfeed, and you avoid adding any chemicals/additives aside from water conditioner and (possibly, if needed) plant fertilizer, the tank should be fine.

Another thing with tests...always test at roughly the same time of day, and in natural light but not direct sunlight. Light is composed of colours, and all artificial light (bulbs, tubes, LED) can be vastly different even though it may be "white" light. This can affect the colours of tests. The time of day matters with pH for example due to the diurnal variation; testing in the morning each time will provide a better idea of the situation.
All I see is $$$$ with all the testing involved... Lol
 
The API Master Combo test kit is a good one to start with, and all you need going forward. It has ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. Ammonia and nitrite tests won't be needed once the tank is cycled, except when something goes wrong but let's hope it won't. Nitrate and pH are good tests to ensure the tank is established (as opposed to just cycled). And these two tests should be consistent with the near-exact same result every time, for years, once the tank is established.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top