Is This Big Enough For 1 Betta?

This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.

I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj
 
This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.

I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj

yes but theres a diffrence between surviving and being healthy. garanteed my betta will live longer in a 5g tank anyone that keeps them in a 1g unheater unfilltered will.
 
Well, it would appear that the requirements of the human is being put foremost in virtually all the replies, especially the moderators.

Inchworm - I have over 25 years fish keeping experience, and have kept and bred many many species of fish from freshwater to marine. I have seen many changes in that time, and the biggest change is aesthetics. Some aesthetic changes are very good, like the designs of tanks to become more of a piece of furniture to be viewed, but other changes like this half bubble tank do NOT take into consideration the needs of the fish, and i challenge anyone to say how this bubble has been designed with the fish in mind? You. Inchworm, actually hit the nail on the head when you said "safe and comfortable environment for any fish are clean water kept at an appropriate temperature". The appropriate temperature for a betta is higher than the normal community tank. A temperature of 28c+ is considered appropriate for bettas, so unless the owner of this bubble keeps their house unbearably hot the basic needs will not be met. Constant water changes, which this bubble will need, will increase the likelihood of stress which in turn may lead to illness.

As regards to whether fish keeping has moral differences between various countries, check out the countries relevant ebays. You will find that ebay UK has very very few, if any, tanks like this. Whereas, ebay USA, Canada, Australia will have dozens. The majority of fish shops in the UK will not sell these things, vases or bowls. So there are moral difference which do affect a persons view on these types of containers.

Regarding the large betta breeders, did you also realise that a lot of commercial breeders use the multiple spawning techniques that result in the death of the female 99% of the time? This is done for only one reason, profits.

However, i can see that there is no point in continuing to view my experienced opinions as it appears that people with little knowledge of bettas frequent this forum. Sorry if that sounds harsh, but thats the impression I have gained. I have kept, amongst other fish, around 1000+ bettas during my fish keeping career so do know what I'm talking about.
 
This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.

I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj

yes but theres a diffrence between surviving and being healthy. garanteed my betta will live longer in a 5g tank anyone that keeps them in a 1g unheater unfilltered will.

Take a look at my signature. Four years old is pretty good. He only had one minor infection when he first moved to Miami from IL in 2006, otherwise, he was disease free. I don't know, you think he just survived at death's door for four years? I find that extremely hard to believe.

Well, it would appear that the requirements of the human is being put foremost in virtually all the replies, especially the moderators.

Again, take a look at my signature. I think his long lifespan speaks well for my husbandry. I've also over 20 years in the hobby.

I feel like a broken record sometimes....

We're not saying keeping one in a 5g is bad. It's great and I admire these setups, they are very pretty. Not saying keeping one in a 2g bowl is bad either. That's the point, we present the information and it's up to the hobbiest to decide. We don't want members here being flamed for choosing their method if it doesn't conform to what another member does and it works. I've already argued against the bubble. It's awkward to clean and too heavy for a wall, posing a risk to the fish IMO and suggested something more user-friendly with better surface area and depth for a fish that utilizes surface air. And by the way, my room is between 78 and 80 degrees because of multiple tanks and high plant density, so I think that's more comfortable than most environments and probably significantly contributed to his longevity. The rest of the house is cooler at around 74, so I keep species that prefer these temperatures and I never kept bettas in those parts of the house, as it would be too cold. Now, if you don't want to post here because you claim people here know nothing of bettas...

That is the mistake. Why not stay and help to educate? You might not get everybody to share your views, but you would be welcome.

Just my two cents...

llj
 
Just to clarify my post, I said there is nothing wrong with the size (ie volume) of the tank, I never said I thought it was ideal. In fact I went on to voice some concerns with using it.

With adequate water changes there is nothing wrong with keeping bettas in small tanks/bowls, bigger is not always better.

You're right, the way I originally read your post "size" meant tank shape and dimensions in my head. I saw your concerns and didn't mean for my post to downplay them. So if it seemed like that I do apologize.
 
This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.
I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj

yes but theres a diffrence between surviving and being healthy. garanteed my betta will live longer in a 5g tank anyone that keeps them in a 1g unheater unfilltered will.

Take a look at my signature. Four years old is pretty good. He only had one minor infection when he first moved to Miami from IL in 2006, otherwise, he was disease free. I don't know, you think he just survived at death's door for four years? I find that extremely hard to believe.
well you have been very lucky them because ive never heard a betta in a bowl that long with no fillter or heater so well done but i bet it would dtill have been healthyer if it was in a 5g with fillter and heater. how big actually was the tank?
 
Hi,

(Just for perspective). . .One of my bettas is in a 2-gallon bowl. What I've done for her is 1) keep the substrate to a minimum (less than 1/4") so as much water can fill up the bowl as possible, and 2) provided her with a heater.

She gets 100% water changes every 3 days and I also put indian almond leaf pieces in there and she LOVES those. She's a rare and interesting betta as *she* builds bubble nests.

FWIW, two of my male bettas are in 5-gallons and their ammonia levels build up *just as fast* as the 2-gallon ;)
 
If those tanks are filtered then you may want to check them, as that should not happen with weekly water changes. It certainly doesn't occurr in mine.
 
If those tanks are filtered then you may want to check them, as that should not happen with weekly water changes. It certainly doesn't occurr in mine.
One of the 5-gallons is filtered, the other is not. The one with the filter has a filter for a 3-gallon because my betta has VERY long fins and is easly swept away in the current. There is no way he'd be okay in his five gallon with a Tetra 5-10 gallon PF Whisper (which is in my 10-gallon betta tank) even with the filter stuffed with extra foam.

The other isn't filtered yet because I haven't found one for that tank size. The one that I have for the tank (mentioned above) is a tad noisy and the unfiltered tank is in my son's room so I don't want him to be kept awake. I upgraded him to a larger home but all he has right now is a heater, gravel, and silk plants.

Any recs for a filter for a 5-gallon that works for Bettas? The one I have for that size is the red sea deco art nano:

http://www.petco.com/product/12148/Red-Sea-Deco-Art-Nano-Filter.aspx
 
That's the reason your ammonia is showing.


Most sponge filters should work. They produce very little current and are safe enough for fry so safe enough for adult bettas . As for cannisters, the Rena Filstar is a good filter and the flow can be turned right down and then blocked with an ornament or wood. Bronson has one set up in this way and he hsn't been sucked into it as yet. Putting the cut off leg of a pair of thin tights/pantyhose/stocking or even a very fine/small hole fishnet stocking over the intake should also help to stop fins being sucked in.

If you can get a filter that has an outflow nozzel that sticks out, you can make or buy a spray bar attatchment to deflect the flow if it's too fast . Just aim the solid tube and it's holes at the back wall. The flow will simply collect there and run down the back wall.
 
That's the reason your ammonia is showing.


Most sponge filters should work. They produce very little current and are safe enough for fry so safe enough for adult bettas . As for cannisters, the Rena Filstar is a good filter and the flow can be turned right down and then blocked with an ornament or wood. Bronson has one set up in this way and he hsn't been sucked into it as yet.
What is the model number for the appropriate sized Rena Filstar?

I have a net over my Eclipse filter (seperate tank) to keep my guppy fry & pygmy cories from being sucked in. That does work well :)

Oh, and I added IAL to his tank and took his leaf out and have done about 4 water changes (ranging from 25%-50%) and still the water is an amber color. How long till this goes away? I would like to keep leaves in there, but worried that the decomposing leaf would increase ammonia. Wouldn't that be the case? (The betta I still put the IAL in is one of my females and she gets 100% changes every 3 days. She loves the leaves)
 
This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.
I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj

yes but theres a diffrence between surviving and being healthy. garanteed my betta will live longer in a 5g tank anyone that keeps them in a 1g unheater unfilltered will.

Take a look at my signature. Four years old is pretty good. He only had one minor infection when he first moved to Miami from IL in 2006, otherwise, he was disease free. I don't know, you think he just survived at death's door for four years? I find that extremely hard to believe.
well you have been very lucky them because ive never heard a betta in a bowl that long with no fillter or heater so well done but i bet it would dtill have been healthyer if it was in a 5g with fillter and heater. how big actually was the tank?

Good husbandry and quality stock were the key, not blind luck. I do not purchase "rescue" bettas or petstore stock anymore. I purchased this fish from a friend here who had a suplus from her first spawn. The parents were quality stock from aquabid and she was working on developing a specific line. I received an F1 from her, which usually has a larger gene pool than if I received the result of a line development, so I already had a better fish to work with. It was also a smaller, short-finned plakat, which IMO, also explains its longevity. Less fins to haul around, and it was a young, more robust fish.

I really believe that adding the pothos sprigs eliminated the ammonia problem with regard to Alberich's care. I had tested the water in that bowl repeatedly, it never tested positive for ammonia, even before his waterchanges, which were done 2x a week. The test wasn't broken, it was new. I tend to not get ammonia in any of my tanks, or if I do, an algae spike will betray minute levels before they are toxic to fish and then I do a water change. The plants consumed it too quickly. The bowl had a capacity of between 2 and 2.5g. Not a small bowl by any means. I also used a minimal substrate, just a few smooth river stones which I removed and cleaned with each wather change. He had quite a bit of swimming space.

Again, 4 years isn't typical. It is a long life, regardless of the method of care. I've also kept bettas with a heater and a filter in 10g tanks divided 2 ways, so I understand your side completely. They lived about a year, so go figure, and with no ammonia in the tanks because they were also planted. These fish, however, were pet store fish with long fins and I did not know their history. I plant all of my tanks because, for me, it is the natural thing to do. So I think the quality of the fish has a lot to do with its longevity and the addition of plants to the picture.

If I purchase a betta again, I will make sure to purchase quality stock and I will stick with plakats, which just seem stronger to me. Also, I will be adding the pothos sprigs to eliminate ammonia. I am confident that while I may or may not get a betta to thrive for 4 years, it will certainly enjoy a quality life and live out its natural lifespan. Do I recommend this to everyone, no? I have special circumstances (more fish-keeping experience, warm climate, etc) that makes this method particularly successful for me. Like I said, it is up to the reader to decide what method works for them, but it's not anyone's place to blast a particular method or assert that their's as the only one that guarantees success. Again, the reader needs to decide based on the information he/she receives.
 
That's the reason your ammonia is showing.


Most sponge filters should work. They produce very little current and are safe enough for fry so safe enough for adult bettas . As for cannisters, the Rena Filstar is a good filter and the flow can be turned right down and then blocked with an ornament or wood. Bronson has one set up in this way and he hsn't been sucked into it as yet.
What is the model number for the appropriate sized Rena Filstar?

I have a net over my Eclipse filter (seperate tank) to keep my guppy fry & pygmy cories from being sucked in. That does work well :)

Oh, and I added IAL to his tank and took his leaf out and have done about 4 water changes (ranging from 25%-50%) and still the water is an amber color. How long till this goes away? I would like to keep leaves in there, but worried that the decomposing leaf would increase ammonia. Wouldn't that be the case? (The betta I still put the IAL in is one of my females and she gets 100% changes every 3 days. She loves the leaves)

My Rena is an older model and I can't seem to find it online, but there is one of what appears to be a similar size and power, it looks similar too. It has no flow adjustment, but from the look of it the outflow sticks out and you can make a spraybar attatchment for it using a piece of flexible hose and a piece of rigid pipe with holes drilled in it. Obviously just make sure the flexible hose fits tightly onto the outflow nozzle and also the rigid pipe.


http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/rena-internal-power-filters.asp

I find mine to be pretty much silent also, so having the tank in a bedroom would not diusturb sleep.

The amber colour probably won't go away. It's tannins leached from the leaves. They won't harm your fish and since their native waters are not crystal clear anyway it gives the water a more natural colour for them. Removing the leaves completely and doing a lot of water changes , and never adding them again would give you clear water, but if the fish like the leaves then leave them in and remove when they start to disintegrate . As long as you do weekly water changes and filter you shouldn't get an ammonia reading from them.

Perhaps you're adding too many? I use half a leaf in Bronson and the Girls tanks, and I barely get this discolouration of the water at all. Also do you have any bogwood in the tanks? This also leaches tannins and if you have some in there it's probably that and not the leaves colouring the water.
 
That's the reason your ammonia is showing.


Most sponge filters should work. They produce very little current and are safe enough for fry so safe enough for adult bettas . As for cannisters, the Rena Filstar is a good filter and the flow can be turned right down and then blocked with an ornament or wood. Bronson has one set up in this way and he hsn't been sucked into it as yet.
What is the model number for the appropriate sized Rena Filstar?

I have a net over my Eclipse filter (seperate tank) to keep my guppy fry & pygmy cories from being sucked in. That does work well :)

Oh, and I added IAL to his tank and took his leaf out and have done about 4 water changes (ranging from 25%-50%) and still the water is an amber color. How long till this goes away? I would like to keep leaves in there, but worried that the decomposing leaf would increase ammonia. Wouldn't that be the case? (The betta I still put the IAL in is one of my females and she gets 100% changes every 3 days. She loves the leaves)

My Rena is an older model and I can't seem to find it online, but there is one of what appears to be a similar size and power, it looks similar too. It has no flow adjustment, but from the look of it the outflow sticks out and you can make a spraybar attatchment for it using a piece of flexible hose and a piece of rigid pipe with holes drilled in it. Obviously just make sure the flexible hose fits tightly onto the outflow nozzle and also the rigid pipe.


http://www.aquatics-online.co.uk/catalogue/rena-internal-power-filters.asp

I find mine to be pretty much silent also, so having the tank in a bedroom would not diusturb sleep.

The amber colour probably won't go away. It's tannins leached from the leaves. They won't harm your fish and since their native waters are not crystal clear anyway it gives the water a more natural colour for them. Removing the leaves completely and doing a lot of water changes , and never adding them again would give you clear water, but if the fish like the leaves then leave them in and remove when they start to disintegrate . As long as you do weekly water changes and filter you shouldn't get an ammonia reading from them.

Perhaps you're adding too many? I use half a leaf in Bronson and the Girls tanks, and I barely get this discolouration of the water at all. Also do you have any bogwood in the tanks? This also leaches tannins and if you have some in there it's probably that and not the leaves colouring the water.
The reason I was wondering about the amber color is because I removed the leaves a few weeks back and have done multiple changes and still the water is brownish. In one of my other betta tanks, I've kept a small leaf piece 1" X 2" and she LOVES that and blows bubbles now. I'll add a few bits back into the unfiltered tank for one of my guys. I don't mind the brown. . .it just looks like I'm not up on cleanings which bugs me a bit.

Thanks for the filter info. I'll hunt for it on a US site :)

This has nothing to do with morals but rather is a matter of practicality. Long flowing fins and tail can be all too easily snagged and ruined by clutter added to in a big tank and make swimming against a current created by a filter

thats why you use a sponge fillter mine is in a 5g tank with a spray bar that he swims againg and his fins have never had 1 rip in them and along as you get silk or live plants and smoth substance theres nothink for them to cut there fins on.

is still think 3g is the min to give it some room to actually move in and so that when you add a fillter and heater (which they need) there will still be enoght water volume and then you can add plant that will make it feel alot safer and happyer but you just cant do that in a 1g tank.
I do not think they always need a filter or a heater. But again, I live in Miami and it never gets cold enough that I have to heat any of my tanks. As for filtration, the plants that I add (usually Pothos sprigs) probably do a better job cleaning the water than most filters without the potential problems that a current could cause to the fins. All my tanks, with or without filtration, are planted in some way. While I did feed my betta generously, he also munched on the various microorganisms on the plant roots, small snails living in the bowl, and I would feed him live mosquitos and ants. Granted, I also prefer plakats, which are generally smaller fish and have shorter fins.

It is fine that you feel this way. If 3g is the minimum for you to successfully meet the needs of your fish, than that is what you need. Others here will do equally well with a 1-2g unheated, unfiltered bowl. Still others, will do well with 5g and all the bells and whistles. It depends on what you want to do and there isn't a set method really. As long as you practice good husbandry and make sure the water is clean, you will be fine and the fish will thrive.

Back on the topic, yep, I was also going to say that 1.5-2g of water with gravel is going to weigh about 20lbs, give or take. That alone would discourage me from a wall-mounted aquarium. You could potentiall damage the dry-wall. Parents would get mad. :lol:

llj

yes but theres a diffrence between surviving and being healthy. garanteed my betta will live longer in a 5g tank anyone that keeps them in a 1g unheater unfilltered will.

Take a look at my signature. Four years old is pretty good. He only had one minor infection when he first moved to Miami from IL in 2006, otherwise, he was disease free. I don't know, you think he just survived at death's door for four years? I find that extremely hard to believe.
well you have been very lucky them because ive never heard a betta in a bowl that long with no fillter or heater so well done but i bet it would dtill have been healthyer if it was in a 5g with fillter and heater. how big actually was the tank?

Good husbandry and quality stock were the key, not blind luck. I do not purchase "rescue" bettas or petstore stock anymore. I purchased this fish from a friend here who had a suplus from her first spawn. The parents were quality stock from aquabid and she was working on developing a specific line. I received an F1 from her, which usually has a larger gene pool than if I received the result of a line development, so I already had a better fish to work with. It was also a smaller, short-finned plakat, which IMO, also explains its longevity. Less fins to haul around, and it was a young, more robust fish.

I really believe that adding the pothos sprigs eliminated the ammonia problem with regard to Alberich's care. I had tested the water in that bowl repeatedly, it never tested positive for ammonia, even before his waterchanges, which were done 2x a week. The test wasn't broken, it was new. I tend to not get ammonia in any of my tanks, or if I do, an algae spike will betray minute levels before they are toxic to fish and then I do a water change. The plants consumed it too quickly. The bowl had a capacity of between 2 and 2.5g. Not a small bowl by any means. I also used a minimal substrate, just a few smooth river stones which I removed and cleaned with each wather change. He had quite a bit of swimming space.

Again, 4 years isn't typical. It is a long life, regardless of the method of care. I've also kept bettas with a heater and a filter in 10g tanks divided 2 ways, so I understand your side completely. They lived about a year, so go figure, and with no ammonia in the tanks because they were also planted. These fish, however, were pet store fish with long fins and I did not know their history. I plant all of my tanks because, for me, it is the natural thing to do. So I think the quality of the fish has a lot to do with its longevity and the addition of plants to the picture.

If I purchase a betta again, I will make sure to purchase quality stock and I will stick with plakats, which just seem stronger to me. Also, I will be adding the pothos sprigs to eliminate ammonia. I am confident that while I may or may not get a betta to thrive for 4 years, it will certainly enjoy a quality life and live out its natural lifespan. Do I recommend this to everyone, no? I have special circumstances (more fish-keeping experience, warm climate, etc) that makes this method particularly successful for me. Like I said, it is up to the reader to decide what method works for them, but it's not anyone's place to blast a particular method or assert that their's as the only one that guarantees success. Again, the reader needs to decide based on the information he/she receives.

Out of my four bettas, the one in the 2-gallon unfiltered (but heated) seems the happiest. She's perky and blows bubbles all the time now that I added IAL to her bowl. Her water is frequently changed.

lljdma06 - with your long-lived betta, did you add aquarium salt to his bowl?
 

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