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I Give Up.

RO water is short for reverse osmosis. osmosis is a natural process which in short, filters out all the nasties. osmosis is used in the human body in the kidneys and every cell but that isnt relevant to us aquarists.

Basically tap water is passed through several filters (dependent on how many stages you use)which removed sediment, chlorine and chloramine. it is then forced under pressure through a reverse osmosis membrane which has molecule sized holes in it. The only molecules that are small enough to pass through the membrane are the pure water molecules and this is the water that you collect and use in your tank. it is pure h2o with ALL minerals taken out. the machine also discards the waste through another outlet and this is discarded or used for watering plants or lawns etc.

As the water is in its purest form it has no minerals which the fish need so if you use pure RO water in your tank your fish will die in the same way that we would die if we received no iron, calcium, sodium in our diet etc. You must re-mineralise pure RO water with a remineralising compound if you intend to use pure RO water in your tank.

However you can mix the pure RO water with a percentage of tap water to give back some minerals. obviously this tapwater must be treated with a conditioner such as the one you are using.

my mix ratio initially was 70% ro and 30% tap. but my pH was too unstable on this so I now use pure 100% RO water mix a special discus re-mineralising compound and they are very happy on this mixture. my pH is also very steady at 6.4. I live in a hard water area and my tap water gave me a tank pH of 8.0 before I started using ro water.

another reason I use pure RO over an RO/TAP mixture is that my tap water contains 31ppm of nitrates before I start and the RO machine removes these prior to me adding it to the tank. Consequently my nitrate levels have fallen from40-80ppm in my tank to aroun 5ppm!!

My fish are very healthy and are displaying beautiful colours and normal schooling and interaction behaviour.

You can get RO machines from lots of places and ebay is a good place. Me, I won mine in a competition but if i had needed to pay for it I would have done.

Good luck mate. do some research on the web about RO machines and water and then make your decision. The re-mineralising compound actually works out cheaper than buying the tap water conditioner and you use less of it so there is a saving to be made here ( in the uk at least).

thanks again
paul
 
I FINALLY got my water test today. I tested the amonia after not changing the water yesterday, it was at about .25 ppm. I did a 20% water change, and its somewhere between 0 and .25 ppm, closer to 0 though.

I got a master kit that tests nitrites, nitrates, hardness, alkalinity, and ph. I'm just waiting for the answers to develop.

Nitrates: about 10 ppm
Nitrites: 0
Hardness: 120 (about)
Alkalinity: 100 (about)
pH: 6.4 (about)

Any comments guys?
 
lol m8.

to be fair the only reason I have gone down the RO water route is because I am keeping discus and hope to breed them and my tap water is so hard that I could never get my pH down below 8.0.

The RO water has brought my pH down to 6.4 and my fish seem a lot healthier, happier and are displaying brighter colours as a result.

As long as you use a good quality tap water conditioner that deals with chlorine and chloramine and your filter is nicely cycled which it appears to be going by your readings you shouldnt have too many problems.

good luck and keep in touch m8
 
I FINALLY got my water test today. I tested the amonia after not changing the water yesterday, it was at about .25 ppm. I did a 20% water change, and its somewhere between 0 and .25 ppm, closer to 0 though.

I got a master kit that tests nitrites, nitrates, hardness, alkalinity, and ph. I'm just waiting for the answers to develop.

Nitrates: about 10 ppm
Nitrites: 0
Hardness: 120 (about)
Alkalinity: 100 (about)
pH: 6.4 (about)

Any comments guys?

is this a strip based kit or a liquid one? If it's strips (which I guess it is) then they are wildly innacurate I'm afraid. Invest in a liquid test kit and then you can test the ammonia yourself as well.
 
I FINALLY got my water test today. I tested the amonia after not changing the water yesterday, it was at about .25 ppm. I did a 20% water change, and its somewhere between 0 and .25 ppm, closer to 0 though.

I got a master kit that tests nitrites, nitrates, hardness, alkalinity, and ph. I'm just waiting for the answers to develop.

Nitrates: about 10 ppm
Nitrites: 0
Hardness: 120 (about)
Alkalinity: 100 (about)
pH: 6.4 (about)

Any comments guys?

is this a strip based kit or a liquid one? If it's strips (which I guess it is) then they are wildly innacurate I'm afraid. Invest in a liquid test kit and then you can test the ammonia yourself as well.

The ammonia test is liquid, the other one is a strip test. I know they can be inaccurate but it was all they had that was under $50. I've been using two at a time and they have all been getting the same results.
I was also told by my mom that our house has very hard water, which the test also supports.

The liquid ammonia test is saying that my tap water(after letting it sit for 24 hours), has a reading .25 ppm ammonia. I can't imagine that this is good....

Paul- Good luck on breeding discus, let me know if it happens!
 

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