Fuzzy
Fish Herder
sry a little disorganized.
Worms in the aquarium. Are they common? Who can get them? What can I do about them? And what do they mean for the health of my fish?
Worms are nocturnal creatures. If you can’t see them during the day doesn’t mean they’re not present. Because they are light-sensitive, they remain in the darkness of the gravel, rocks, plants or any hideout available during the day or lighting hours.
Obviously the best way to detect any nocturnal creatures is therefore only at night or when the tank is dark.
It may take several hours after the lights have been turned off and the room darkened before the creatures appear. Using red light will make them visible for the human eye, but will not be recognized by the worms. Rapid movements should be avoided it will scare the worms back into hiding.
Worms grow at a fast rate; the same applies to their reproduction. Once worms have been spotted, and action has been taken to eliminate them, it is this fast rate of growth and reproduction that can be misleading if their successful removal from the tank is believed.
Worms eat everything they can find in the aquarium, which initially makes them appear to be ideal bottom cleaners. Nevertheless the fast growing population makes it a priority to remove all the worms that can be found. Some initially small and harmless looking species can grow to a solid 24-inch sea monster. No matter how long the species will get, there is usually more worm than meets the eye.
Worms can be introduced to the aquarium in various ways, through plants, new fish, fish food, snails etc.
One of the biggest threats for reef and marine set ups are the bristle worms. A fast growing population does not only do damage, but can also lead to attacks on crustaceans, corals and anemones. Bristle worms are visible and can be identified by the many bristles. These worms can grow into 24-inch creatures.
Next to fairly visible worms that are considered non-parasitic, there are of course external and internal parasitic worms that will harm the fish.
Parasitic worms are the roundworm, tapeworm, thorny headed worms, and flukes.
One rule applies, to calm the nerves of the hobbyist; most worms seen outside the fish are usually not internal parasites and not considered as harmful to the fish. Parasitic or harmful worms will not be visible on the gravel or the glass of the aquarium.
Noticing small white worms the size of a few millimeters crawling along the glass are either flat or roundworms. Flat appearances are planaria (flatworms) and the more thin and wiggly ones are nematodes (roundworms). Both of them do not exceed 4-5 millimeters. Both types are harmless to fish and thrive on excessive nutrients in the water column often resulting from overstocked aquariums.
To free the tank of these worms simply do not feed your fish for 3-4 days as they will often feed on them. Also lower the excess nutrients in the tank to quickly solve the problem.
The fluke is a parasite worm that is visible on the skin or gills of the fish. Measuring only 0.3 - 0.5 millimeters in length, this oval shaped worm can spread and often result in fish death.
Internal parasitic worms can not easily be diagnosed. Advanced stages can be visible by ulcers on the skin. On the other hand, not all internal worms do pose a threat to the fish.
First signs of internal worms are an increased appetite without weight gain or even weight loss while consuming increased amounts of food.
The tapeworm is the best known though not very common.
Worms of Concern
Anchor Worm
Young anchor worms are free swimming crustaceans that bury themselves into the fish’s skin. It takes several months before the worm becomes visible in form of holes or ulcers on the fish's body. After laying eggs, the worm dies off.
Since the worm can not be removed by hand, a potassium permanganate bath for about 20 minutes should cure it (dosage 10ml/l).
Thorny Headed Worm
Visible symptoms are white or green threads on the gills. The fish often scratches on objects in the aquarium.
The thorny headed worm is similar to the anchor worm, only smaller in size. It attaches itself to the gills. The cure is also a potassium permanganate bath for 20 minutes (dosage 10ml/l).
Flukes
The symptoms are mucus covered gills and/or body, red spots on the skin, fins appear eaten away, as well as rapid breathing.
Flukes are flatworms and are similar in appearance as Ick and can be better viewed with detail through a magnifying glass. Flukes will destroy the gills and kill the fish if left untreated.
The best cure is a potassium permanganate bath for 20 minutes (dosage 10ml/l).
Threadworms
Threadworms are internal fish that sometimes emerge from the fish's anus. This parasitic infestation can be fatal if not treated in time. Preferred treatment is parachlorometaxylenol soaked fish food and a bath in the same for several days (dosage 10ml/ liter).
Leeches
These external parasites are visible on the skin, gills and fins of the fish and are similar in appearance to Ick.
Since they attach themselves to the fish, the best method of removal is a bath in a salt solution for 20 minutes (dosage 2.5 % salt to water). During the bath, most of the leeches will simply fall off; the ones remaining can be removed with a pair of tweezers.
Ich/White Spot: This is probably one of the most common fish diseases. Ich looks like literally white spots all over the fish. This is a Protozoan disease caused by Ichthyophthirius in fresh water aqauriums (Cryptocarion irritans in Marine). It is a parasite that attacks the eyes, fins, gills, skin and mouth interior.
Symptoms: White spots all over the fish. The fish may attempt to scrape itself against objects in the aquarium, have a loss of appetite or a stressed-rapid breathing. The parasite can only be affected by treatment during the free-swimming stages of the cycle.
Treatment : A Copper Sulfate or Copper Formalin medicine should be able to kill most infections. There are many medicines all do the trick. If the fish are salt tolerant give your fish a salt bath. Also raise the temp this ups the life cycle of the disgusting parasite.
Velvet Similar to ich except the white spots appear 'dusty'.
Symptoms Same as ich except dusty spots
Treatment Same as ich
Dropsy : One of the most disturbing of fish diseases, and is rarely cureable. Dropsy is an internal bacterial infection.
Symptoms: The fish's scales will stand out, making it have a pine comb look. Sometimes eyes can .blow up'.
Treatment : Use Kanamycin or Tetracycline and raise the temperature to about 80 degrees/ 30 deg C. This helps remove the fluid note this is rarly curablee.
Fungus:: Common disease that effects all kinds tropical fish. Fungus mostly infects in poor water conditions in which there are unacceptable levels of ammonia or nitrites. Fin nippers will damage the fins of other fish making them more susceptible to fungal infections and external bacterial infections such as fin and tail rot.
Symptoms A white cottony fluff will appear on fish. Can be around body or in mouth. Fin rot appears as white on ends of fins.
Treatment: Relatively easy. Add appropriate medication (Available for all fungal infections). If fish are salt tolerant add salt. Raise the temp to 30 deg C or 80deg F.
Swimbladder: This is a disease that effects the fishes swim bladder.
Symptoms: Fish swim side-ways or rest on bottom and can't go to surface.
Treatment: Raise the temperature, add appropriate medication for swim bladder. Note this is a disease that is rarely curable.
Cysts This is a uncommon disease. Fish infected by systs should be ethunaised before the cyst bursts.
Symptoms: Large balls appear on fish internally or externally. They look full of fluid and are relatively largeCataractsCataracts are fungal growths on the eyes. Treatment with any aquarium fungicide should work. Its probability increases with water rich in ammonia or nitrates.
Symptoms:White or gray material covering the eyes only.
Treatment
pecial attention should be made to assure that ammonia and nitrite levels stay within accepted measures. Add anti fugal treatment. Raise the temperature and if fish are compatible with salt add it.
CorneybacteriosisCorneybacteria causes swelling in the head which will push the eyes outward. It is caused by overcrowding and water of poor quality, having an excess of ammonia and / or nitrites. (YOU KNOW SEE WHY WE GO ON AND ON ABOUT AMMONIA/NITRITES )
Symptoms Bulging Eyes
Treatment:There are a few commercially available products which treat corneybacteriosis Penicillin and tetracycline are among them.
Black Spot Black Spot, or diplopstomiasis, often follows the addition of new aquarium fish. All fish are susceptible, especially the Silver Dollar and Piranha. It is fairly easy to diagnose and treat.
Symptoms Small black spots on the body.
Treatment Black spot is generally easy to cure. There are a number of commercially available treatments and preventatives.
VelvetVelvet looks similar to Ich, but there will be many more small white spots that appear dusty. This Protozoan disease in fresh water environments is caused by Oodinium limneticum and Oodinium pillularis. In marine environments by Oodinium occellatum. The parasite attacks the eyes, fins, gills and skin.
Symptoms: Similar to Ich more white spots that appear dusty
Treatment As for Ich
Fin Rot Can be either bacterial (fins rot with red [blood] outline on edge) or fungal (white, cottony grows on edge of fin)
Symptoms The fins will have a ragged, uneven appearance that will eventually, if left untreated, disintegrate to the point where only a stub remains.
Treatment There is a range of medication including penecilin.
Hole In The Head (HITH): This is a common disease among larger Cichlids such as Severums and especially...Oscars. It appears as small holes on the face and around the eyes, that may have a white material growing inside them.
SymptomsIt appears as small holes on the face and around the eyes, that may have a white material growing inside them. Loss of appetite and whitish feces are another indication that may appear before the development of the holes.
Treatmeant A range of medication including Aquarium Pharmaceuticals-General Cure, Aquatronics- Hex-a-Mit, Aquatronics- Hex-A-Vital (especially for Discus, Angelfish and Oscars)
Gill Flukes Parasite livign in gills. Gills become inflamed.
Symptoms: The gills may turn red and swollen. The fish may scratch himself against objects and breathe rapidly.
Treatment Use appropriate medication and raise the temp and if possible give a salt bath.
Flexibacter Flexibacter is a gliding bacteria. These bacteria are long, thin, and flexible. One end of the bacterial cell is attached to the fish, while the other end if free floating.
Symptoms: Looks like fuzzyness basically. Balls that look like mold.
Treatment Appropriate medication (Maracyn and Maracyn II used together). Increased aeration, and decreased temperature.
Tumor There are 2 types of tumors. The Benign and Cancerous tumor.
Symptoms: The benign tumour will have something that looks like an infection around it. A Cancerous tumour will keep growing and some scales around the area will protrude when it grows big enough.
Treatment: Sadly no cure. Either euthanise the fish reccomended or let it live in agony for its remaing days.
Clamped fins The fish clamps its fins close against the its body. Experienced aquarists use this to quickly spot problems with their fish.
Symptoms Like the name clammped fins.
Treatment: Water change (Like with all diseases) add melafix or some sort of appropriate medication. If possible add salt to compatible fish.
Temperature
Fish are cold-blooded animals. We have to provide them with the water temperature best suited for them, either through a heater or a chiller.
Glass is a bad insulator, which means the tank will quickly adapt to the room temperature when our heater fails due to a power outage.
In order to keep the temperature as stable as possible blankets or Styrofoam come in handy. You can actually "wrap your aquarium with blankets or Styrofoam in order to slow the temperature loss.
The risk of overheating can be avoided by placing ice cubes in a sealed plastic bag in the aquarium.
Once the power is restored make sure to slowly adjust the temperature back to normal as extreme changes can cause extreme stress for your fish.
Oxygen
Oxygen levels in your aquarium will decrease with the increase in water temperature. Oxygen enters the water through a gas exchange at the water surface. If you think about blowing air into the plastic tube connected to your air pump, the effects will be very limited. The air stone actually provides little to no oxygen.To increase oxygen levels you should extract some water with a cup and pour it back in the tank. This should be repeated at least once per hour, or as soon as you notice your fish gasp for air.
Lower tank temperatures will not only hold more oxygen, but also slow down the fish's metabolism.
Filtration
The most important part of concern during a power outage is the filtration system. Remove the biowheels and submerge them in the tank. Filter media in trickle filters can be placed in a mesh bag and placed in the tank as well, or you can pour water over the media in regular hourly intervals.
Canister and other closed filters should be disconnected. These filters turn anaerobe rather quickly, producing highly toxic substances, which are deadly for the fish. One of these substances is hydrogen sulfite which smells like rotten eggs, the other ammonia. All filters should be cleaned, before they are restarted.
Other Things to Consider
Do not feed your fish during a power outage. Fish can survive 3-5 days without food. If you have to feed, do it sparingly. When the power comes back on, siphon the gravel, replace the carbon and do a 20% water change.
Another important part is to watch out for diseases. Many parasites and bacteria are already in the water and can attack a weak fish at any time. A power outage is extremely stressful and the chance for diseases to take foot hold are very high.
We recommend placing Algone in the filter during and after a power outage. Algone will control ammonia, and hydrogen sulfite in the filter and help minimize the possible release into the aquarium.
A power back-up system in the form of a car or boat battery will provide energy for at least one filter. Considering expensive fish, corals, live rock and other animals, this relatively small investment may be worth it.
his is the smaller half purple, half yellow fish. I obtained it in June, 1994 when it was about 1.5 inches. It is an opportunistic feeder of whatever happens to be floating in the water. I feed it alternately brine shrimp and formula 1, approximately every other day. It likes to build a nest out of algae, though it also spends part of its time in the open water.
Mandarin Fish, Synchiropus splendidus
This fish was added on 12-Nov-94. It's a decent sized male and appears healthy.
Stony Corals
Acropora microphthalma
The parent colony is in an outdoor tank maintained by Bruce Carlson at the Waikiki Aquarium. This colony was originally collected from Fiji in 1990 on a fore-reef slope off Pacific Harbour at a depth of about 45 feet. It was part of a huge mono-clonal colony about 30 feet across. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Acropora elseyi
This coral glows green under actinic lights. The parent colony (pictured on page 66 of The Reef Aquarium by Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung) is in an outdoor tank maintained by Bruce Carlson at the Waikiki Aquarium. This colony was originally collected from Fiji in 1990 on a reef flat off Suva at a depth of about 5 feet. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Leaf coral, Pavona cactus
The parent colony is from Palau, collected in 1988. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Finger coral, Montipora digitata
The parent colony is from Palau, collected in 1988, literally from Gerry Heslinga's backyard at a depth of 3 feet. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Bird's nest coral, Pocillopora damicornis
I got a good price on this at a local pet store because it was bleaching nearly white. This was the first "Acropora" (as the pet store labelled it) I had actually seen. It has very slowly regained some color, though it is still very pale. The polyps open and I think it has grown a little. I got this colony in August, 1994.
Open brain coral, Lobophyllia hataii
This colony was almost pure white when I bought it in August, 1993. It is now a pale cream color, with greenish bands along the outside. It puffs up during the day, and puts out feeding tentacles at night or when I put food in the tank.
Elegance coral, Catalaphyllia jardinei
This colony has a skeleton about 2.5 inches across, but opens 8 to 10 inches during the day, and about half that at night. I purchased it in July, 1993.
Torch coral, Euphyllia divisa
Also called a frogspawn coral because of the appearance of the tentacles, this one has a branching skeleton. It was purchased in November, 1993, and has added perhaps 1/2 inch of skeleton in a year.
Soft Corals
Yellow polyps, Parazoanthus axinellae
These polyps all came into the aquarium on one rock in September, 1993. They now appear in four different places in the aquarium.
Button polyps, Zoanthus sp.
Most of these polyps came in on one rock in August, 1993. This was unusual in that there were 3 different color patterns in the polyps on this rock (bright green centers, yellowish centers, and mottled white/grey centers). These have spread to several other nearby rocks. There are also a few solitary polyps that were added from another colony. One of these has since grown a colony of 9 polyps.
Mushroom corals, Actinodiscus sp.
Three solitary polyps (one blue, two greenish) were added from a friend's tank in September, 1993. The original blue one disappeared into the rocks, though it left behind three children. One of the green ones has only divided once, the other has divided six times.
Anthelia sp.
Just a few polyps were recieved in September, 1993 from a friend's tank. This has grown to a patch of a dozen polyps, with a second patch appearing about a year later.
Gorgonia sp.
This specimen was purchased in November, 1993. A few of the branches have died back, but the tops have definately grown. It regularly gets some slime algae growing on it, then slimes that away and will open for a few days, then become overgrown again. I try to squirt it with a turkey baster to keep it clear when I notice it becoming overgrown.
Encrusting Gorgonian, Cladiella sp.
This specimen just grew out of the live rock. It appeared as two waving tentacles on a dime sized smudge of tissue in January, 1991. It now has 8 fingers each a couple of inches long, and has proved very hardy.
? Cladiella sp?
This grew out of the live rock. I first noticed it in March 1993 when it was just a couple polyps in a spot on the rock. In a year it grew about 2 inches.
Other Inverts
Giant clam, Tridacna maxima
This clam was purchased in May, 1993. It was originally a greyish purple with blue spots along the edges of its mantle. It has darkened to a deep purple/brown, and the spots are gold now. It has only put on about 1/4 inch of new shell, though that includes two sets of "scutes".
Giant clam, Tridacna derasa
This clam was purchased in March, 1992 and initially put in another aquarium. It was moved to this tank in October, 1993. It has put on over an inch of new shell.
Giant clam, Tridacna crocea
This clam was purchased in October, 1994. It has a mottled blue and tan mantle.
Coral banded shrimp, Stenopus hispidus
This is the surviving shrimp from a pair added in June, 1993. It killed the other shrimp. I had thought they would make a pair because they had co-existed in a dealer's tank for several weeks before I got them. They stayed together in my tank for about 6 weeks. The shrimp likes to molt down under the rocks, so I only rarely see a discarded skin to know how often he is molting.
Peppermint shrimp, Rhynchocinetes_uritai
I added three of these in April, 1994. I believe that only two survive now, though it is difficult to tell. I can regularly see bits of them between the rocks, though they seldom come out into the open, and I rarely see more than one at a time.
Astrea snails, Astrea tecta
I started the tank in Feb. 1993 with 9 of these, of which I believe 6 are still surviving. They have all at least doubled in size. In October 1994 I added 10 more snails. A baby appeared on the glass in September, 1994. While it may have been from a spawn, I suspect that it came in as a hitchhiker on a coral or other addition to the tank.
Siphonaria
Four of these small limpets were added at the same time as the Acropora Challenge II fragments. I haven't seen them since, and suspect that they did not survive.
Live Rock
This tank contains 110 pounds of live rock, with lots of life on it. This is about 80 pounds of "plant rock" from one Florida supplier, and about 30 pounds of "reef rock" from another Florida supplier.
On the rock, I have seen orange and yellow encrusting sponges, tunicates, three varieties of urchins (removed from the tank), many brittle stars, three small crabs (two of them were removed; I have been unable to capture the third, which is now sizable and red. However I have only seen it eat brown algae, and think it is OK), one mantis shrimp (captured and killed), some bristle worms, three tiny patches of stoney coral, many fanworms, a couple rock-boring oysters, several kinds of macro algae, and more
Food and Additives
I add several different kinds of food on different schedules:
Frozen brine shrimp, Formula I, other prepared foods
I add these mainly for the fish, usually every other day. I add only one type of food at a time, but alternate among the various foods. When I'm feeding brine shrimp, I try to squirt some of them at the corals that will eat it.
Chopped shrimp or squid
About once a month, the larger corals are given 1/4 inch chunks of seafood. I cut up the seafood while it is fresh, and then freeze it in a ziplock bag. At feeding time I defrost the needed amount, and place it on the corals with long tweezers.
Finely ground fry food
Every couple of weeks, I will dissolve some of this in tank water, and then squirt that among the smaller corals and other filter feeders. This is just to make sure that they are getting enough food since I don't feed the fish very much.
I also add a number of different additives:
Kalkwasser
I mix this up regularly, about a teaspoon of Ca(OH)2 to a gallon of water. A couple times a day, I add about a cup of this to the tank, pouring some into the sump, and some across the top of the tank. It is important not to add it too fast to avoid a "snowstorm" where all of the calcium percipitates out of solution. Some day I will build an automatic kalkwasser reactor.
Buffer
When I was dosing calcium with CaCl2, I added about 2 teaspoons a week. Now that I'm using Kalkwasser, I expect to need it much less often. I've been using the Kent Marine seabuffer.
Combisan
While I prefer to use simple additives where I know everything that is in them, I won a couple bottles of Combisan in a raffle, so I'm trying this for a while as an experiment. I've quit adding Strontium or Iodine separately, and am now dosing 1/2 teaspoon of Combisan every other day.
Strontium and Moybdenum
I generally use the Kent Marine preparation for this, adding a couple teaspoons a week.
Iodine
I mix my own iodine additive from Lugol's solution obtained at a pharmacy. I put 1 ml of Lugol's into a liter of R/O water, then does a couple teaspoons of this solution into the tank each week.
I rarely do water changes. When I do, it's about 10 gallons, and it happens every couple of months. I usually gage when to do this by how the corals look. If the corals go a couple of days without opening fully or looking completely happy, then it's time for a water change.
Water Quality
I test the tank infrequently (I should probably test more often). Test values mentioned here are from 10/19/94.
Salinity
Most recent test was a specific gravity of 1.026. This is a little high, since I target 1.025, but nothing to worry about. I will gradually correct it over the next couple of weeks.
Ammonia
I haven't tested this since the tank was about one month old. I'm sure that there is no measurable ammonia in the tank. I would test again if corals and/or fish started looking unhappy and I couldn't explain it.
Nitrite
Same as ammonia.
Nitrate
I test this every few months, using the LaMotte test kit. There has been no measurable nitrate (less then 0.25 ppm) since the tank was one month old.
pH
It currently tests between 8.3 and 8.4. I only have the Tetra test kit, so it is difficult to get an accurate measurment. However, this is also the target range, so I don't worry about it.
Alkalinity
Most recent test was about 9 dKH. This is a little higher than I usually keep it (I target 7.5 to 8 dKH), but well within recommended ranges. I use the Hanna titration test. Theil actually recommends a very high alkalinity, while many others recommend lower values.
Calcium
Most recently tested at 500ppm. This is high, and is because I used to use calcium chloride to keep the calcium level up, and let it get away from me. I'm using Kalkwasser now, and letting the level slowly drop down to around 450ppm. I use the LaMotte calcium hardness test for this.
Phosphate
I don't have a test kit for this. Since I'm using R/O filtered water, I'm not too concerned.
Signs of Poison
Toxicity levels vary depending on the species, the size, and the metabolic rate. The fish’s metabolism is more active in higher temperatures then in cooler environments, which allows toxins to act faster.
Toxic substances come in contact with the fish through the gills, rather than the skin. This allows most toxins to act very rapid as they enter the bloodstream of the fish very directly. Any degree of poisoning will weaken the fish, making it vulnerable toward disease.
Ammonia Poisoning
Ammonia is highly toxic to any fish. Reasons for an ammonia poisoning include a new set-up (nitrogen cycle), an interruption of the beneficial bacteria (i.e. power outage, medication, filter exchange) or a change in the bio-load, if too many new fish have been added to the aquarium too quickly.
The signs are a lethargic motionless fish hovering at the bottom of the tank, red gills and a lack of appetite. Advanced cases will show bleeding gills as well as external and internal bleeding toward the final stage before resulting in death.
In addition to a water change, first aid can be given by lowering the pH to 7.0 or less. Toxic ammonia changes into ammonium at this level and is, at this stage, harmless and non-toxic.
PH can be lowered by using distilled water for the partial water change.
Nitrite Poisoning
Nitrite is less toxic then ammonia, but still poses a significant health risk to the fish, and can be deadly in high doses or over long periods of time.
Fish gasping for air at the water surface is generally a good sign of nitrite poisoning.
Nitrite enters the bloodstream of the fish and binds hemoglobin cells - the oxygen carrying vessels of the fish’s body. In other words, high nitrite levels will suffocate the fish.
The cause for nitrite poisoning is the same as described with ammonia poisoning.
1 teaspoon of salt per 300 Gallons of water can help the fish to cope with nitrite toxins.
CO2 Poisoning
CO2 levels in excess of 25-30 ppm are dangerous for fish. Common signs for CO2 poisoning are an increasing and more rapid breathing, gasping for air, and a staggering swimming behavior – all leading to suffocation of the fish.
CO2 poisoning can be caused by a malfunction of the CO2 reactor, or the inability of plants to absorb CO2 if the lighting is insufficient.
A quick and long lasting solution is to heavily aerate the tank through surface agitation and air-stones. This will cause the CO2 to dissipate from the water.
Hydrogen Sulfite
In rare occasions, such as a severe lack of maintenance or an extended power outage, hydrogen sulfite can be formed in the gravel or within the filter.
Hydrogen sulfite can be detected by its rotten egg like smell. Hydrogen sulfite transforms iron within the blood cells into sulfide which will lead to suffocation of the fish.
The warning signs of hydrogen sulfite are the same as with nitrite poisoning in addition to the rotten egg smell of the water.
Prevention is crucial; the gravel should be cleaned on a regular basis. In case of a power outage, the filter has to be rinsed out well, before re-starting it. This will help eliminate the toxins that are in the filter, instead of washing them into the tank.
Chlorine, Chloramine, Heavy Metals
All three of them are in general of no concern as the water usually is treated with a conditioner prior to use, eliminating this problem right from the start.
Most tap water (city water) is treated with chlorine/chloramine to make it safe for human consumption. Unfortunately, our wet pets do not appreciate that. Chlorine/chloramine poisoning has similar signs as associated with nitrite poisoning. Chlorine/chloramine irritates the gills and blocks the oxygen carrying cells, again leading to suffocation. Additional to the fish gasping for air, a chlorine odor can be detected.
If so, adding a water conditioner is imminent, as chlorine/chloramine can kill all fish within 24 hours.
High concentrations of heavy metals can lead to a sudden fish death without any warning signs. A good water conditioner will also remove heavy metals next to chlorine/chloramine.
The degree of heavy metal toxicity is dependent on the water hardness. Fish can tolerate 10 times the amount of heavy metals in an aquarium at 18 degrees hardness as with 1 degree.
Some medications and aquarium additives contain copper; they have to be used with caution and should not be used over an extended period of time.
Moving Your Aquarium
Moving an aquarium can be a real challenge. Whether you want to move it from one room in your house to another, or move it to a completely new place of residence.
Needless to say, the larger the tank, the more challenging the task. The main thing to remember is that stress to your fish makes them more susceptible to disease. Therefore stress should be kept at a minimum. Below we will attempt to outline some of the precautions to take as well as the order in which things are best done. With a little preparation your move should be fairly painless and successful.
The very last thing you should move is your aquarium. Make your aquarium the last thing you tear down. At the same time, make sure that it is also the first thing you attend to once arriving at your new place.
Although fish are shipped around the world all the time, we do not recommend doing so. If you are moving further than 6 hours from your present home, you should consider finding a new home for your fish. You may want to consider selling your livestock and starting over. Moving less then 1 hour makes it simple. You can bag your fish the same way your pet store does. Be sure to keep your bagged fish in the dark, as this will reduce stress. If you are moving 1 - 6 hours away, again bag the fish. However you should add pure oxygen to the bags. The easiest way to do this is to take your bagged fish to your pet store and ask them to add the oxygen. Call them first and find out if it's o.k.
Try to save as much of your aquarium water as you can. If you re-use this water, cycling of your freshly setup aquarium will take a lot less time with a lower chance of "new tank syndrome". As far as plants and decorations, transport them in a bag or container using some of the original tank water. Leave the gravel in the tank with enough water to cover it.
Keep your filter media in some of your aquarium water while moving it. Your move will disrupt the bacteria colonies that are responsible for biological filtration. Leaving the filter media in the water will minimize this disruption.
Make a check list of any supplies you may need at your new home (i.e. salt if you are moving a marine tank) and be sure to have everything ready.
Once you arrive at your new home start by setting up your aquarium. Fill it with as much water as you were able to take with you and top it off with fresh water if necessary. Second, get your filters going quickly. Put your decorations back in the tank and finally add your fish.
If you use Algone in your filter, you can minimize any ammonia spikes that may occur.
The loss of fish due to a move is always a possibility. Obviously the shorter the move the better the chances for a 100% success. If you are moving only a short distance and follow the suggestions above everything should be fine. Just make sure to minimize the stress on your fish and to preserve the bacteria on your filters and your substrate by keeping them in some of the original aquarium water.
Worms in the aquarium. Are they common? Who can get them? What can I do about them? And what do they mean for the health of my fish?
Worms are nocturnal creatures. If you can’t see them during the day doesn’t mean they’re not present. Because they are light-sensitive, they remain in the darkness of the gravel, rocks, plants or any hideout available during the day or lighting hours.
Obviously the best way to detect any nocturnal creatures is therefore only at night or when the tank is dark.
It may take several hours after the lights have been turned off and the room darkened before the creatures appear. Using red light will make them visible for the human eye, but will not be recognized by the worms. Rapid movements should be avoided it will scare the worms back into hiding.
Worms grow at a fast rate; the same applies to their reproduction. Once worms have been spotted, and action has been taken to eliminate them, it is this fast rate of growth and reproduction that can be misleading if their successful removal from the tank is believed.
Worms eat everything they can find in the aquarium, which initially makes them appear to be ideal bottom cleaners. Nevertheless the fast growing population makes it a priority to remove all the worms that can be found. Some initially small and harmless looking species can grow to a solid 24-inch sea monster. No matter how long the species will get, there is usually more worm than meets the eye.
Worms can be introduced to the aquarium in various ways, through plants, new fish, fish food, snails etc.
One of the biggest threats for reef and marine set ups are the bristle worms. A fast growing population does not only do damage, but can also lead to attacks on crustaceans, corals and anemones. Bristle worms are visible and can be identified by the many bristles. These worms can grow into 24-inch creatures.
Next to fairly visible worms that are considered non-parasitic, there are of course external and internal parasitic worms that will harm the fish.
Parasitic worms are the roundworm, tapeworm, thorny headed worms, and flukes.
One rule applies, to calm the nerves of the hobbyist; most worms seen outside the fish are usually not internal parasites and not considered as harmful to the fish. Parasitic or harmful worms will not be visible on the gravel or the glass of the aquarium.
Noticing small white worms the size of a few millimeters crawling along the glass are either flat or roundworms. Flat appearances are planaria (flatworms) and the more thin and wiggly ones are nematodes (roundworms). Both of them do not exceed 4-5 millimeters. Both types are harmless to fish and thrive on excessive nutrients in the water column often resulting from overstocked aquariums.
To free the tank of these worms simply do not feed your fish for 3-4 days as they will often feed on them. Also lower the excess nutrients in the tank to quickly solve the problem.
The fluke is a parasite worm that is visible on the skin or gills of the fish. Measuring only 0.3 - 0.5 millimeters in length, this oval shaped worm can spread and often result in fish death.
Internal parasitic worms can not easily be diagnosed. Advanced stages can be visible by ulcers on the skin. On the other hand, not all internal worms do pose a threat to the fish.
First signs of internal worms are an increased appetite without weight gain or even weight loss while consuming increased amounts of food.
The tapeworm is the best known though not very common.
Worms of Concern
Anchor Worm
Young anchor worms are free swimming crustaceans that bury themselves into the fish’s skin. It takes several months before the worm becomes visible in form of holes or ulcers on the fish's body. After laying eggs, the worm dies off.
Since the worm can not be removed by hand, a potassium permanganate bath for about 20 minutes should cure it (dosage 10ml/l).
Thorny Headed Worm
Visible symptoms are white or green threads on the gills. The fish often scratches on objects in the aquarium.
The thorny headed worm is similar to the anchor worm, only smaller in size. It attaches itself to the gills. The cure is also a potassium permanganate bath for 20 minutes (dosage 10ml/l).
Flukes
The symptoms are mucus covered gills and/or body, red spots on the skin, fins appear eaten away, as well as rapid breathing.
Flukes are flatworms and are similar in appearance as Ick and can be better viewed with detail through a magnifying glass. Flukes will destroy the gills and kill the fish if left untreated.
The best cure is a potassium permanganate bath for 20 minutes (dosage 10ml/l).
Threadworms
Threadworms are internal fish that sometimes emerge from the fish's anus. This parasitic infestation can be fatal if not treated in time. Preferred treatment is parachlorometaxylenol soaked fish food and a bath in the same for several days (dosage 10ml/ liter).
Leeches
These external parasites are visible on the skin, gills and fins of the fish and are similar in appearance to Ick.
Since they attach themselves to the fish, the best method of removal is a bath in a salt solution for 20 minutes (dosage 2.5 % salt to water). During the bath, most of the leeches will simply fall off; the ones remaining can be removed with a pair of tweezers.
Ich/White Spot: This is probably one of the most common fish diseases. Ich looks like literally white spots all over the fish. This is a Protozoan disease caused by Ichthyophthirius in fresh water aqauriums (Cryptocarion irritans in Marine). It is a parasite that attacks the eyes, fins, gills, skin and mouth interior.
Symptoms: White spots all over the fish. The fish may attempt to scrape itself against objects in the aquarium, have a loss of appetite or a stressed-rapid breathing. The parasite can only be affected by treatment during the free-swimming stages of the cycle.
Treatment : A Copper Sulfate or Copper Formalin medicine should be able to kill most infections. There are many medicines all do the trick. If the fish are salt tolerant give your fish a salt bath. Also raise the temp this ups the life cycle of the disgusting parasite.
Velvet Similar to ich except the white spots appear 'dusty'.
Symptoms Same as ich except dusty spots
Treatment Same as ich
Dropsy : One of the most disturbing of fish diseases, and is rarely cureable. Dropsy is an internal bacterial infection.
Symptoms: The fish's scales will stand out, making it have a pine comb look. Sometimes eyes can .blow up'.
Treatment : Use Kanamycin or Tetracycline and raise the temperature to about 80 degrees/ 30 deg C. This helps remove the fluid note this is rarly curablee.
Fungus:: Common disease that effects all kinds tropical fish. Fungus mostly infects in poor water conditions in which there are unacceptable levels of ammonia or nitrites. Fin nippers will damage the fins of other fish making them more susceptible to fungal infections and external bacterial infections such as fin and tail rot.
Symptoms A white cottony fluff will appear on fish. Can be around body or in mouth. Fin rot appears as white on ends of fins.
Treatment: Relatively easy. Add appropriate medication (Available for all fungal infections). If fish are salt tolerant add salt. Raise the temp to 30 deg C or 80deg F.
Swimbladder: This is a disease that effects the fishes swim bladder.
Symptoms: Fish swim side-ways or rest on bottom and can't go to surface.
Treatment: Raise the temperature, add appropriate medication for swim bladder. Note this is a disease that is rarely curable.
Cysts This is a uncommon disease. Fish infected by systs should be ethunaised before the cyst bursts.
Symptoms: Large balls appear on fish internally or externally. They look full of fluid and are relatively largeCataractsCataracts are fungal growths on the eyes. Treatment with any aquarium fungicide should work. Its probability increases with water rich in ammonia or nitrates.
Symptoms:White or gray material covering the eyes only.
Treatment
pecial attention should be made to assure that ammonia and nitrite levels stay within accepted measures. Add anti fugal treatment. Raise the temperature and if fish are compatible with salt add it. CorneybacteriosisCorneybacteria causes swelling in the head which will push the eyes outward. It is caused by overcrowding and water of poor quality, having an excess of ammonia and / or nitrites. (YOU KNOW SEE WHY WE GO ON AND ON ABOUT AMMONIA/NITRITES )
Symptoms Bulging Eyes
Treatment:There are a few commercially available products which treat corneybacteriosis Penicillin and tetracycline are among them.
Black Spot Black Spot, or diplopstomiasis, often follows the addition of new aquarium fish. All fish are susceptible, especially the Silver Dollar and Piranha. It is fairly easy to diagnose and treat.
Symptoms Small black spots on the body.
Treatment Black spot is generally easy to cure. There are a number of commercially available treatments and preventatives.
VelvetVelvet looks similar to Ich, but there will be many more small white spots that appear dusty. This Protozoan disease in fresh water environments is caused by Oodinium limneticum and Oodinium pillularis. In marine environments by Oodinium occellatum. The parasite attacks the eyes, fins, gills and skin.
Symptoms: Similar to Ich more white spots that appear dusty
Treatment As for Ich
Fin Rot Can be either bacterial (fins rot with red [blood] outline on edge) or fungal (white, cottony grows on edge of fin)
Symptoms The fins will have a ragged, uneven appearance that will eventually, if left untreated, disintegrate to the point where only a stub remains.
Treatment There is a range of medication including penecilin.
Hole In The Head (HITH): This is a common disease among larger Cichlids such as Severums and especially...Oscars. It appears as small holes on the face and around the eyes, that may have a white material growing inside them.
SymptomsIt appears as small holes on the face and around the eyes, that may have a white material growing inside them. Loss of appetite and whitish feces are another indication that may appear before the development of the holes.
Treatmeant A range of medication including Aquarium Pharmaceuticals-General Cure, Aquatronics- Hex-a-Mit, Aquatronics- Hex-A-Vital (especially for Discus, Angelfish and Oscars)
Gill Flukes Parasite livign in gills. Gills become inflamed.
Symptoms: The gills may turn red and swollen. The fish may scratch himself against objects and breathe rapidly.
Treatment Use appropriate medication and raise the temp and if possible give a salt bath.
Flexibacter Flexibacter is a gliding bacteria. These bacteria are long, thin, and flexible. One end of the bacterial cell is attached to the fish, while the other end if free floating.
Symptoms: Looks like fuzzyness basically. Balls that look like mold.
Treatment Appropriate medication (Maracyn and Maracyn II used together). Increased aeration, and decreased temperature.
Tumor There are 2 types of tumors. The Benign and Cancerous tumor.
Symptoms: The benign tumour will have something that looks like an infection around it. A Cancerous tumour will keep growing and some scales around the area will protrude when it grows big enough.
Treatment: Sadly no cure. Either euthanise the fish reccomended or let it live in agony for its remaing days.
Clamped fins The fish clamps its fins close against the its body. Experienced aquarists use this to quickly spot problems with their fish.
Symptoms Like the name clammped fins.
Treatment: Water change (Like with all diseases) add melafix or some sort of appropriate medication. If possible add salt to compatible fish.
Temperature
Fish are cold-blooded animals. We have to provide them with the water temperature best suited for them, either through a heater or a chiller.
Glass is a bad insulator, which means the tank will quickly adapt to the room temperature when our heater fails due to a power outage.
In order to keep the temperature as stable as possible blankets or Styrofoam come in handy. You can actually "wrap your aquarium with blankets or Styrofoam in order to slow the temperature loss.
The risk of overheating can be avoided by placing ice cubes in a sealed plastic bag in the aquarium.
Once the power is restored make sure to slowly adjust the temperature back to normal as extreme changes can cause extreme stress for your fish.
Oxygen
Oxygen levels in your aquarium will decrease with the increase in water temperature. Oxygen enters the water through a gas exchange at the water surface. If you think about blowing air into the plastic tube connected to your air pump, the effects will be very limited. The air stone actually provides little to no oxygen.To increase oxygen levels you should extract some water with a cup and pour it back in the tank. This should be repeated at least once per hour, or as soon as you notice your fish gasp for air.
Lower tank temperatures will not only hold more oxygen, but also slow down the fish's metabolism.
Filtration
The most important part of concern during a power outage is the filtration system. Remove the biowheels and submerge them in the tank. Filter media in trickle filters can be placed in a mesh bag and placed in the tank as well, or you can pour water over the media in regular hourly intervals.
Canister and other closed filters should be disconnected. These filters turn anaerobe rather quickly, producing highly toxic substances, which are deadly for the fish. One of these substances is hydrogen sulfite which smells like rotten eggs, the other ammonia. All filters should be cleaned, before they are restarted.
Other Things to Consider
Do not feed your fish during a power outage. Fish can survive 3-5 days without food. If you have to feed, do it sparingly. When the power comes back on, siphon the gravel, replace the carbon and do a 20% water change.
Another important part is to watch out for diseases. Many parasites and bacteria are already in the water and can attack a weak fish at any time. A power outage is extremely stressful and the chance for diseases to take foot hold are very high.
We recommend placing Algone in the filter during and after a power outage. Algone will control ammonia, and hydrogen sulfite in the filter and help minimize the possible release into the aquarium.
A power back-up system in the form of a car or boat battery will provide energy for at least one filter. Considering expensive fish, corals, live rock and other animals, this relatively small investment may be worth it.
his is the smaller half purple, half yellow fish. I obtained it in June, 1994 when it was about 1.5 inches. It is an opportunistic feeder of whatever happens to be floating in the water. I feed it alternately brine shrimp and formula 1, approximately every other day. It likes to build a nest out of algae, though it also spends part of its time in the open water.
Mandarin Fish, Synchiropus splendidus
This fish was added on 12-Nov-94. It's a decent sized male and appears healthy.
Stony Corals
Acropora microphthalma
The parent colony is in an outdoor tank maintained by Bruce Carlson at the Waikiki Aquarium. This colony was originally collected from Fiji in 1990 on a fore-reef slope off Pacific Harbour at a depth of about 45 feet. It was part of a huge mono-clonal colony about 30 feet across. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Acropora elseyi
This coral glows green under actinic lights. The parent colony (pictured on page 66 of The Reef Aquarium by Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung) is in an outdoor tank maintained by Bruce Carlson at the Waikiki Aquarium. This colony was originally collected from Fiji in 1990 on a reef flat off Suva at a depth of about 5 feet. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Leaf coral, Pavona cactus
The parent colony is from Palau, collected in 1988. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Finger coral, Montipora digitata
The parent colony is from Palau, collected in 1988, literally from Gerry Heslinga's backyard at a depth of 3 feet. I received this fragment in October, 1994 as part of the Acropora Challenge.
Bird's nest coral, Pocillopora damicornis
I got a good price on this at a local pet store because it was bleaching nearly white. This was the first "Acropora" (as the pet store labelled it) I had actually seen. It has very slowly regained some color, though it is still very pale. The polyps open and I think it has grown a little. I got this colony in August, 1994.
Open brain coral, Lobophyllia hataii
This colony was almost pure white when I bought it in August, 1993. It is now a pale cream color, with greenish bands along the outside. It puffs up during the day, and puts out feeding tentacles at night or when I put food in the tank.
Elegance coral, Catalaphyllia jardinei
This colony has a skeleton about 2.5 inches across, but opens 8 to 10 inches during the day, and about half that at night. I purchased it in July, 1993.
Torch coral, Euphyllia divisa
Also called a frogspawn coral because of the appearance of the tentacles, this one has a branching skeleton. It was purchased in November, 1993, and has added perhaps 1/2 inch of skeleton in a year.
Soft Corals
Yellow polyps, Parazoanthus axinellae
These polyps all came into the aquarium on one rock in September, 1993. They now appear in four different places in the aquarium.
Button polyps, Zoanthus sp.
Most of these polyps came in on one rock in August, 1993. This was unusual in that there were 3 different color patterns in the polyps on this rock (bright green centers, yellowish centers, and mottled white/grey centers). These have spread to several other nearby rocks. There are also a few solitary polyps that were added from another colony. One of these has since grown a colony of 9 polyps.
Mushroom corals, Actinodiscus sp.
Three solitary polyps (one blue, two greenish) were added from a friend's tank in September, 1993. The original blue one disappeared into the rocks, though it left behind three children. One of the green ones has only divided once, the other has divided six times.
Anthelia sp.
Just a few polyps were recieved in September, 1993 from a friend's tank. This has grown to a patch of a dozen polyps, with a second patch appearing about a year later.
Gorgonia sp.
This specimen was purchased in November, 1993. A few of the branches have died back, but the tops have definately grown. It regularly gets some slime algae growing on it, then slimes that away and will open for a few days, then become overgrown again. I try to squirt it with a turkey baster to keep it clear when I notice it becoming overgrown.
Encrusting Gorgonian, Cladiella sp.
This specimen just grew out of the live rock. It appeared as two waving tentacles on a dime sized smudge of tissue in January, 1991. It now has 8 fingers each a couple of inches long, and has proved very hardy.
? Cladiella sp?
This grew out of the live rock. I first noticed it in March 1993 when it was just a couple polyps in a spot on the rock. In a year it grew about 2 inches.
Other Inverts
Giant clam, Tridacna maxima
This clam was purchased in May, 1993. It was originally a greyish purple with blue spots along the edges of its mantle. It has darkened to a deep purple/brown, and the spots are gold now. It has only put on about 1/4 inch of new shell, though that includes two sets of "scutes".
Giant clam, Tridacna derasa
This clam was purchased in March, 1992 and initially put in another aquarium. It was moved to this tank in October, 1993. It has put on over an inch of new shell.
Giant clam, Tridacna crocea
This clam was purchased in October, 1994. It has a mottled blue and tan mantle.
Coral banded shrimp, Stenopus hispidus
This is the surviving shrimp from a pair added in June, 1993. It killed the other shrimp. I had thought they would make a pair because they had co-existed in a dealer's tank for several weeks before I got them. They stayed together in my tank for about 6 weeks. The shrimp likes to molt down under the rocks, so I only rarely see a discarded skin to know how often he is molting.
Peppermint shrimp, Rhynchocinetes_uritai
I added three of these in April, 1994. I believe that only two survive now, though it is difficult to tell. I can regularly see bits of them between the rocks, though they seldom come out into the open, and I rarely see more than one at a time.
Astrea snails, Astrea tecta
I started the tank in Feb. 1993 with 9 of these, of which I believe 6 are still surviving. They have all at least doubled in size. In October 1994 I added 10 more snails. A baby appeared on the glass in September, 1994. While it may have been from a spawn, I suspect that it came in as a hitchhiker on a coral or other addition to the tank.
Siphonaria
Four of these small limpets were added at the same time as the Acropora Challenge II fragments. I haven't seen them since, and suspect that they did not survive.
Live Rock
This tank contains 110 pounds of live rock, with lots of life on it. This is about 80 pounds of "plant rock" from one Florida supplier, and about 30 pounds of "reef rock" from another Florida supplier.
On the rock, I have seen orange and yellow encrusting sponges, tunicates, three varieties of urchins (removed from the tank), many brittle stars, three small crabs (two of them were removed; I have been unable to capture the third, which is now sizable and red. However I have only seen it eat brown algae, and think it is OK), one mantis shrimp (captured and killed), some bristle worms, three tiny patches of stoney coral, many fanworms, a couple rock-boring oysters, several kinds of macro algae, and more
Food and Additives
I add several different kinds of food on different schedules:
Frozen brine shrimp, Formula I, other prepared foods
I add these mainly for the fish, usually every other day. I add only one type of food at a time, but alternate among the various foods. When I'm feeding brine shrimp, I try to squirt some of them at the corals that will eat it.
Chopped shrimp or squid
About once a month, the larger corals are given 1/4 inch chunks of seafood. I cut up the seafood while it is fresh, and then freeze it in a ziplock bag. At feeding time I defrost the needed amount, and place it on the corals with long tweezers.
Finely ground fry food
Every couple of weeks, I will dissolve some of this in tank water, and then squirt that among the smaller corals and other filter feeders. This is just to make sure that they are getting enough food since I don't feed the fish very much.
I also add a number of different additives:
Kalkwasser
I mix this up regularly, about a teaspoon of Ca(OH)2 to a gallon of water. A couple times a day, I add about a cup of this to the tank, pouring some into the sump, and some across the top of the tank. It is important not to add it too fast to avoid a "snowstorm" where all of the calcium percipitates out of solution. Some day I will build an automatic kalkwasser reactor.
Buffer
When I was dosing calcium with CaCl2, I added about 2 teaspoons a week. Now that I'm using Kalkwasser, I expect to need it much less often. I've been using the Kent Marine seabuffer.
Combisan
While I prefer to use simple additives where I know everything that is in them, I won a couple bottles of Combisan in a raffle, so I'm trying this for a while as an experiment. I've quit adding Strontium or Iodine separately, and am now dosing 1/2 teaspoon of Combisan every other day.
Strontium and Moybdenum
I generally use the Kent Marine preparation for this, adding a couple teaspoons a week.
Iodine
I mix my own iodine additive from Lugol's solution obtained at a pharmacy. I put 1 ml of Lugol's into a liter of R/O water, then does a couple teaspoons of this solution into the tank each week.
I rarely do water changes. When I do, it's about 10 gallons, and it happens every couple of months. I usually gage when to do this by how the corals look. If the corals go a couple of days without opening fully or looking completely happy, then it's time for a water change.
Water Quality
I test the tank infrequently (I should probably test more often). Test values mentioned here are from 10/19/94.
Salinity
Most recent test was a specific gravity of 1.026. This is a little high, since I target 1.025, but nothing to worry about. I will gradually correct it over the next couple of weeks.
Ammonia
I haven't tested this since the tank was about one month old. I'm sure that there is no measurable ammonia in the tank. I would test again if corals and/or fish started looking unhappy and I couldn't explain it.
Nitrite
Same as ammonia.
Nitrate
I test this every few months, using the LaMotte test kit. There has been no measurable nitrate (less then 0.25 ppm) since the tank was one month old.
pH
It currently tests between 8.3 and 8.4. I only have the Tetra test kit, so it is difficult to get an accurate measurment. However, this is also the target range, so I don't worry about it.
Alkalinity
Most recent test was about 9 dKH. This is a little higher than I usually keep it (I target 7.5 to 8 dKH), but well within recommended ranges. I use the Hanna titration test. Theil actually recommends a very high alkalinity, while many others recommend lower values.
Calcium
Most recently tested at 500ppm. This is high, and is because I used to use calcium chloride to keep the calcium level up, and let it get away from me. I'm using Kalkwasser now, and letting the level slowly drop down to around 450ppm. I use the LaMotte calcium hardness test for this.
Phosphate
I don't have a test kit for this. Since I'm using R/O filtered water, I'm not too concerned.
Signs of Poison
Toxicity levels vary depending on the species, the size, and the metabolic rate. The fish’s metabolism is more active in higher temperatures then in cooler environments, which allows toxins to act faster.
Toxic substances come in contact with the fish through the gills, rather than the skin. This allows most toxins to act very rapid as they enter the bloodstream of the fish very directly. Any degree of poisoning will weaken the fish, making it vulnerable toward disease.
Ammonia Poisoning
Ammonia is highly toxic to any fish. Reasons for an ammonia poisoning include a new set-up (nitrogen cycle), an interruption of the beneficial bacteria (i.e. power outage, medication, filter exchange) or a change in the bio-load, if too many new fish have been added to the aquarium too quickly.
The signs are a lethargic motionless fish hovering at the bottom of the tank, red gills and a lack of appetite. Advanced cases will show bleeding gills as well as external and internal bleeding toward the final stage before resulting in death.
In addition to a water change, first aid can be given by lowering the pH to 7.0 or less. Toxic ammonia changes into ammonium at this level and is, at this stage, harmless and non-toxic.
PH can be lowered by using distilled water for the partial water change.
Nitrite Poisoning
Nitrite is less toxic then ammonia, but still poses a significant health risk to the fish, and can be deadly in high doses or over long periods of time.
Fish gasping for air at the water surface is generally a good sign of nitrite poisoning.
Nitrite enters the bloodstream of the fish and binds hemoglobin cells - the oxygen carrying vessels of the fish’s body. In other words, high nitrite levels will suffocate the fish.
The cause for nitrite poisoning is the same as described with ammonia poisoning.
1 teaspoon of salt per 300 Gallons of water can help the fish to cope with nitrite toxins.
CO2 Poisoning
CO2 levels in excess of 25-30 ppm are dangerous for fish. Common signs for CO2 poisoning are an increasing and more rapid breathing, gasping for air, and a staggering swimming behavior – all leading to suffocation of the fish.
CO2 poisoning can be caused by a malfunction of the CO2 reactor, or the inability of plants to absorb CO2 if the lighting is insufficient.
A quick and long lasting solution is to heavily aerate the tank through surface agitation and air-stones. This will cause the CO2 to dissipate from the water.
Hydrogen Sulfite
In rare occasions, such as a severe lack of maintenance or an extended power outage, hydrogen sulfite can be formed in the gravel or within the filter.
Hydrogen sulfite can be detected by its rotten egg like smell. Hydrogen sulfite transforms iron within the blood cells into sulfide which will lead to suffocation of the fish.
The warning signs of hydrogen sulfite are the same as with nitrite poisoning in addition to the rotten egg smell of the water.
Prevention is crucial; the gravel should be cleaned on a regular basis. In case of a power outage, the filter has to be rinsed out well, before re-starting it. This will help eliminate the toxins that are in the filter, instead of washing them into the tank.
Chlorine, Chloramine, Heavy Metals
All three of them are in general of no concern as the water usually is treated with a conditioner prior to use, eliminating this problem right from the start.
Most tap water (city water) is treated with chlorine/chloramine to make it safe for human consumption. Unfortunately, our wet pets do not appreciate that. Chlorine/chloramine poisoning has similar signs as associated with nitrite poisoning. Chlorine/chloramine irritates the gills and blocks the oxygen carrying cells, again leading to suffocation. Additional to the fish gasping for air, a chlorine odor can be detected.
If so, adding a water conditioner is imminent, as chlorine/chloramine can kill all fish within 24 hours.
High concentrations of heavy metals can lead to a sudden fish death without any warning signs. A good water conditioner will also remove heavy metals next to chlorine/chloramine.
The degree of heavy metal toxicity is dependent on the water hardness. Fish can tolerate 10 times the amount of heavy metals in an aquarium at 18 degrees hardness as with 1 degree.
Some medications and aquarium additives contain copper; they have to be used with caution and should not be used over an extended period of time.
Moving Your Aquarium
Moving an aquarium can be a real challenge. Whether you want to move it from one room in your house to another, or move it to a completely new place of residence.
Needless to say, the larger the tank, the more challenging the task. The main thing to remember is that stress to your fish makes them more susceptible to disease. Therefore stress should be kept at a minimum. Below we will attempt to outline some of the precautions to take as well as the order in which things are best done. With a little preparation your move should be fairly painless and successful.
The very last thing you should move is your aquarium. Make your aquarium the last thing you tear down. At the same time, make sure that it is also the first thing you attend to once arriving at your new place.
Although fish are shipped around the world all the time, we do not recommend doing so. If you are moving further than 6 hours from your present home, you should consider finding a new home for your fish. You may want to consider selling your livestock and starting over. Moving less then 1 hour makes it simple. You can bag your fish the same way your pet store does. Be sure to keep your bagged fish in the dark, as this will reduce stress. If you are moving 1 - 6 hours away, again bag the fish. However you should add pure oxygen to the bags. The easiest way to do this is to take your bagged fish to your pet store and ask them to add the oxygen. Call them first and find out if it's o.k.
Try to save as much of your aquarium water as you can. If you re-use this water, cycling of your freshly setup aquarium will take a lot less time with a lower chance of "new tank syndrome". As far as plants and decorations, transport them in a bag or container using some of the original tank water. Leave the gravel in the tank with enough water to cover it.
Keep your filter media in some of your aquarium water while moving it. Your move will disrupt the bacteria colonies that are responsible for biological filtration. Leaving the filter media in the water will minimize this disruption.
Make a check list of any supplies you may need at your new home (i.e. salt if you are moving a marine tank) and be sure to have everything ready.
Once you arrive at your new home start by setting up your aquarium. Fill it with as much water as you were able to take with you and top it off with fresh water if necessary. Second, get your filters going quickly. Put your decorations back in the tank and finally add your fish.
If you use Algone in your filter, you can minimize any ammonia spikes that may occur.
The loss of fish due to a move is always a possibility. Obviously the shorter the move the better the chances for a 100% success. If you are moving only a short distance and follow the suggestions above everything should be fine. Just make sure to minimize the stress on your fish and to preserve the bacteria on your filters and your substrate by keeping them in some of the original aquarium water.
