Help - Fish Keep Dieing... Water Test Is Fine

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Dr. Bogger

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Ok, this is the main problem i keep having...

First, i have had 2 Dalmation Mollys die (one replaced the other), then i have had 2 Black Phantom Tetra's Die(purchased 2 more to replace them), then just now, i have had 1 of my Painted Glassfish die (i got them this morning).... what is going on?

Currently i only have 2 black phamtom tetras, 1 male Dalmation Molly, and 1 painted glassfish left...

The male molly has been alive sence the begining, he seems to be very hardy, (but ever sence day 2, he acts very lazy)... all the other fish i have, are ones that have been replaced... i DID have a betta in my tank also, but i removed him thinking he was killing all the fish...

All other fish have been fine sence i removed the betta, but the painted glassfish's i have just got this morning, and one died, but the other is alive but acting a bit lazy... could this be caused by stress from just getting him? he was acting fine this morning, but ever sence the other one died, he acts lazy... maybe he is sad? idk...



Just as a side note, i also have a Afracian Dwarf Frog in my tank... could it be possible that he is causing them to die? I have had him sence the begining also.


Bascily, right now, all of my fish, are acting very sluggish and lazy... except the 2 black phantom tetras... they are just fine, and very active.

Any idea what could be going on? I tested the water for ph, nitrites, nitrates, buffer, hardness, and ammonia, and all of the test come out just fine... so i know its not the water that is causing it...

Any help would be great.
 
Need more info on the size of the tank.
Can you post your water stats so we can take a look.
Any signs of the fish darting around and flicking and rubbing on objects.
Any fish look bloated.
Any other symtoms to go on.

Also need to know the lfs ph to your tank and how long diid you climatise them for.
 
Need more info on the size of the tank.
Can you post your water stats so we can take a look.
Any signs of the fish darting around and flicking and rubbing on objects.
Any fish look bloated.
Any other symtoms to go on.

Also need to know the lfs ph to your tank and how long diid you climatise them for.


The size of the tank is a 10 Gallon.

I used those test strips, and they all came back normal according to the manual... but i'll tell you what they were..

Nitrate = 0
Nitrite = 0 (possibly 0.1 or 0.2)
Total Hardness = 120
Total Alkalinity/Buffering Capacity = 120
pH = aprox. 7.0
Ammonia = Aprox. 0.35
Temp = 78 F

The Male Dalmation Molly i have, has been darting around, rubbing up and down the glass wall, but he does this in spirts... like right now, he is swiming around *almost* normal, but like 3 minutes ago, he was darting around.... (erm... i correct that, i just glanced over, and he is doing it again >_<)

The fish do NOT look bloated...

The painted glassfish *was* doing fine when i first put him in the tank, but ever sence the other one died, he has been on the ground for a while, but he is alive... he does move around, but he is always on the ground....

The two Tetras i have are doing just fine... they are swimming around normaly.

---------------

when i first get them, i put the bag in the water for 10 minutes, then i put a half a cup of water into the bag, wait 10 minutes, then put another half cup of water into the bag, wait 10 minutes, then i put him into the water.... am i doing something wrong with this?

Any idea what is wrong?
 
Right when you buy fish always ask the lfs for the tank ph, even test the ph of the bag so this way you know how long to climatise them for, and temp is a good idea as well.
Them test strip are not that accurate the luquids test kits are the best.
Darting around can be poor water quality, parasites, stay voltage in a tank but i doubt this is the case for you, overdose of meds, and toxins in the water.
I would look at the gills to see if there red and inflamed, or pale with excess mucas on them.
Also check the fish for any signs of little bubbles on there skin.
Also look out for fish that look like there been sprinkled in salt, or a talc dusting, yellow to golden varnish on a fish, or a greyish slime coating on a fish.
 
Right when you buy fish always ask the lfs for the tank ph, even test the ph of the bag so this way you know how long to climatise them for, and temp is a good idea as well.
Them test strip are not that accurate the luquids test kits are the best.
Darting around can be poor water quality, parasites, stay voltage in a tank but i doubt this is the case for you, overdose of meds, and toxins in the water.
I would look at the gills to see if there red and inflamed, or pale with excess mucas on them.
Also check the fish for any signs of little bubbles on there skin.
Also look out for fish that look like there been sprinkled in salt, or a talc dusting, yellow to golden varnish on a fish, or a greyish slime coating on a fish.

Okay, well next time i get a fish, i was ask what the ph of the tank is, and i will test them... as for the strips... i will try and get the liquid ones next time, but they are very expensive... for now, i will just use these up.

As for the inflamed gills, the molly looks like it could be *possibly* inflamed, but then again, that could be normal for them... i will try to look for a picture of a molly, and i will compare it.

I dont see any bubbles n their skin.. and i dont see any yellow varnish, or greyish slime on them.

now the tank is brand new... it is not even a week old yet... how do i check to see if there is any parasites or stray voltage or toxins in the water?

***Edit***
Also, how long should I climatise them for? and how should I do it?
 
now the tank is brand new... it is not even a week old yet... how do i check to see if there is any parasites or stray voltage or toxins in the water?
Right that explains it all got a lot of learning to do.
Added to many fish to soon.
Do a slight water change and increase aeration in the tank.
Add two teapoon of salt in a jug of tank water stir well and add to the tank.
Need to look cycling up will get you a link to the biginners section.
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showforum=58
 
now the tank is brand new... it is not even a week old yet... how do i check to see if there is any parasites or stray voltage or toxins in the water?
Right that explains it all got a lot of learning to do.
Added to many fish to soon.
Do a slight water change and increase aeration in the tank.
Add two teapoon of salt in a jug of tank water stir well and add to the tank.
Need to look cycling up will get you a link to the biginners section.
http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showforum=58

I know all about the cycling... I have added the StressZyme to the tank, along with stress coat... and i have been closely monitoring the ammonia level... i test it about 1 - 2 times a day... and after i setup the tank, i let it sit for 24 hours, then i added 2 fish to start (The mollys), but they all kept dieing... even before i added anymore... currently i only have 4 fish..... that is not too many is it? - 1 molly, 1 painted glassfish, and 2 tetras...

I didnt want to do a fishless cycling, so thats why i added the two mollys to start (ofcorse the one died)... then like 2 days later, i added the two tetra's, then just today, i added the painted glassfish.... all the other fish listed above, it may look like a lot, but everytime one dies, i replace it with a new one.

Please advise some more?
 
Your tank is still cycling, any amount of nitrites & ammonia indicate a cycling tank. Your acclimation process sounds ok. What are you using for dechlorinator? I would recommend water changes for the ammo/nitrite problem, dilution is the solution. :)
 
Your tank is still cycling, any amount of nitrites & ammonia indicate a cycling tank. Your acclimation process sounds ok. What are you using for dechlorinator? I would recommend water changes for the ammo/nitrite problem, dilution is the solution. :)

i use the stress coat for the dechlorinator... (yes, it is a dechlorinator as well).

As for the water change, once my ammonia hits upto 1.0, i will do a 30% water change... or if the nitrite hits upto 0.3... as of now, everything seems to be fine.

Or would you recomend me to do a water change right away?
 
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/rev-cond.htm

Stresscoat will remove chlorine & chloramine, but will do nothing for the ammonia which is a result of splitting apart chloramine into it's components, chlorine & ammonia. When you are doing a water change using this product you are removing ammonia with the water, then adding it back in when the dechlorinator does it's thing to chloramine. That link shows some better conditioners, I would pick up a different product for now.

While a water treatment that leaves you with some ammonia will often work in a mature tank, it's just adding to the problem in a cycling tank. I can get by with sodium thiosulfate in the summer, I mix it myself and save money. In the winter when my water quality drops I use Prime. Water quality does fluctuate seasonally, or due to weather conditions. The water company's concern is making sure people don't get sick from the water, and will increase chlorine, chloramine, and buffers when they feel it's needed.
 
http://www.thetropicaltank.co.uk/rev-cond.htm

Stresscoat will remove chlorine & chloramine, but will do nothing for the ammonia which is a result of splitting apart chloramine into it's components, chlorine & ammonia. When you are doing a water change using this product you are removing ammonia with the water, then adding it back in when the dechlorinator does it's thing to chloramine. That link shows some better conditioners, I would pick up a different product for now.

While a water treatment that leaves you with some ammonia will often work in a mature tank, it's just adding to the problem in a cycling tank. I can get by with sodium thiosulfate in the summer, I mix it myself and save money. In the winter when my water quality drops I use Prime. Water quality does fluctuate seasonally, or due to weather conditions. The water company's concern is making sure people don't get sick from the water, and will increase chlorine, chloramine, and buffers when they feel it's needed.

What one would you recomend me getting? There are too many in the list, for me to deside what one is best :unsure:

*Edit*
I almost forgot, i also have another dechlorinator... it is "Insto Chlor" by Jungle... is that one good to use?
 
Can I also add that painted glassfish are quite likely to die anyway, due to the very cruel dyeing process they are subjected to. They are injected with a needle, and the death rate is horrendous. This is not something we should encourage; I would refuse to buy anything in a shop that sold dyed fish- and make sure they knew why!
 
Well this morning, my other painted glass fish died.... what the hell is going on with my tank? it seems all new fish i get, keep dieing....

The male dalmation molly i have, has been swiming around franticly... he has been swiming agenst the gass wall, up and down, up and down, up and down.... what is this a sign of?

The two black tetra's i have are just just fine... they are acting normal, and everything.

I went to the pet store, and the guy there told me i probabley have a disease in my water, but what could it be? i put some CopperSafe and APPLUS+ Anti-Bacteria Medication in the tank... how long do these medications usualy take to come into effect?

Any ideas what this could all be? i am totaly lost :sad:
 
Can I also add that painted glassfish are quite likely to die anyway, due to the very cruel dyeing process they are subjected to. They are injected with a needle, and the death rate is horrendous. This is not something we should encourage; I would refuse to buy anything in a shop that sold dyed fish- and make sure they knew why!


I did wonder the same thing. Why do people still buy these fish when they know the terribly cruel process the poor things undergo? :angry: :(
If people stopped buying into cruelty, the cruelty would stop.
 

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