Hello A Newbie Starter Question

[tonydb]

Hey all new to the forums and liking what I've seen so far.
 
I recently brought a 62 litre tank (brand new) interpet.
 
Followed the instructions supplied with regards to washing the gravel setting up the filter and heater (26 deg).Filled the tank with water and added interpet tapsafe and interpet filter stat, at the required doses. I set this up on Saturday afternoon around 4pm ish.and its been running since.Now I understand I have to leave it for some time to cycle, but how long? .I had some tetra test strips and results below:
 
NO3-10
NO2-0
GH-0
KH-6
PH-less than 6.4
CL2-0
 
Now im under the assumption these are all ok except for the PH level needs to rise a little according to the colour chart on the side of my test strip pot.
 
Will this change whilst the cycle process is taking place?
 
Oh and just in case this matters I only have a little décor in there at the moment and plan to later on today go to the store and buy some live plants.
 
Also the tank appears to be slightly cloudy?
 
Im hoping I've done everything ok and its just a waiting game now till I can get my little friends in there !!
 
Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[the_lock_man]

You've not done the really bad thing and just put some fish in there, which is good, but at the moment you are (probably) doing diddly towards cycling your filter. I don't understand why the shops and the books tell you to just run an empty tank - it does nothing. Most people reckon Interpet Filter Start does pretty much nothing too.
 
What you really need to do is to read this link here.
 
Your filter needs to grow some bacteria - theoretically there are some in the Filter Start, but the chances are that they are not really going to help. The bacteria need ammonia to grow. You therefore need to add some ammonia to grow some bacteria. That link above gives an excellent, controlled and controllable method of doing so, it will be the quickest way of growing the bacteria, and therefore making it safe for your fish, without harming fish in the meantime.
 
To answer your other questions - there is nothing "wrong" with a low pH - it just means that you can't really have fish like platies and guppies which prefer a higher pH. Having said that, you really need a higher pH to cycle the filter, but this is only a temporary adjustment, and once you are filtered and stocked, you need to leave pH alone, until such time as you get a bit more experienced, and particularly want fish that need a high pH.
 
The cloudiness is almost certainly a bacterial bloom (sorry, no, not those bacteria), it's a very common thing in new tanks, and usually goes away on its own in a few days.

 

[ADW1988]

Hey there,
 
You've come to the right place for help.. Check out my signature at the bottom of post for the link to cycling tanks.. 'Fishless cycle" I recommend you follow this.
 
I did and took no more than 3.5 weeks. Its worth the wait honestly and then you have full piece of mind. I'm not a fan of Filter starts as have had bad experiences with them, so I started afresh..
 
My one first recommendation before cycling is to get a LIQUID BASED TEST KIT... API Master test kit.. They are expensive £35 at Pets at home £19 on ebay (I got mine from ebay ;P) but they give much more accurate results than the test strips..
 
Good luck, its an addictive hobby as I've found out only owning a tank for 6 months, I'm obsessed.. but it brings great enjoyment and everyone on here is more than happy to help.

 

[tonydb]

Hi thanks for the replies.
 
So I am doing right but not enough?
 
Sorry if I sound thick but as a newbie there is loads to take in all at once.
 
So I need to go buy some ammonia and a better test kit?
 
How do you know when you have cycled the filter enough.Ive read that putting some fish food in now can help (don't know how true that is ) Also will adding live plants at this stage make any difference?

 

[ADW1988]

Hi thanks for the replies.
 
So I am doing right but not enough?
 
Sorry if I sound thick but as a newbie there is loads to take in all at once.
 
So I need to go buy some ammonia and a better test kit?
 
How do you know when you have cycled the filter enough.Ive read that putting some fish food in now can help (don't know how true that is ) Also will adding live plants at this stage make any difference?

 
No honestly I was the same.. It's daunting new territory and there is so much to know so ask away..
 
No point putting fish food in as an ammonia source as you cant measure what ammonia content you'll be adding.. It can also cloud the tank..
 
As you're in the UK you can get normal household ammonia from B&Q and homebase I believe. I got mine from ebay and have used the below to good effect:
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230928834948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
Ammonia is basically in simple terms the output from the fish (and rotting fish food for example) that is toxic and needs converting to Nitrite, then Nitrate - the Nitrogen Cycle.
 
I also got my API testkit on ebay too: The reason you use this is it gives you more accurate measurements of PPM (parts per million) for each element (ammonia, NitrIte, NitrAte) this is essential when fishless cycling as it will clearly show you the rise and fall of Ammonia and Nitrite. Also has a PH test too.. Its just more accurate.
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291025542764?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
Have a good read of the article in my sig provided by TwoTankAmin.. It's all you need to know without being too scientific.. Of course you need the science as a base for the knowledge, but TTA will give you detailed answers to any cycling questions you have.
 
I'm going to give you a BASIC outline guide to the first few steps of fishless cycle.  
 
1 Set up and run your tank for 24-48 hrs (if only to check its fully operational and no leaks)
 
2. Use the ammonia calculator: http/www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm on TTA's article to work out your initial input of household ammonia.
 
3. Add the ammonia, wait for levels to drop - may take a number of days but test every 2-3 days
 
from then on follow TTA's guide from the paragraph below
"If at any time you test and ammonia is under .75 ppm and nitrite is clearly over 2 ppm, it is time to add more ammonia. Add the same full amount as you did the first time. Now, begin to test the ammonia and nitrite levels every other day."
 
Live plants is what I'm looking to do now. I had 2/3 to start but having a planted tank takes a lot of research and time. Go for it but I don't think the plants take to well to a cycle. I'm not 100% on that so hopefully someone can answer. I'm adding plants as an after thought as the fish like them and it gives a nice natural look.
 
I cannot stress enough to use the Fishless cycle guide. It takes 3-4 weeks but cuts down any potential stress to the fish and also to you.. Fish in cycles mean daily water changes etcetc and more often than not - fish death!. I learnt the hard way trying to use shortcuts. The satisfaction you get when you've completed the cycle and are about to add fish is awesome. The 3-4 week period also give you great opportunity to read up on what fish, stocking levels and which fish are suitable for your aquarium, temperatures etc etc.
 
I too have a 60L tank and they are great manageable size, even though some say its harder to keep the water stats under control compared to larger tanks, I've never had a problem since the fishless cycle.
 
My only other advice to you is read people's journals (especially the planted ones) they give some great help and advice and check out the section on the site which details all the different types of fish. I found all these most helpful...
 
Hope that helps

 

[Meeresstille]

Hello and welcome!
 
A fishless cycle (usually takes about 6 weeks) is a lot less work, and you won't harm any fish. I'm glad you still have that option, since you haven't been sold any fish yet! 
 
In addition to the info you already received, I just want to let you know that if you know of anyone who has a fish tank, that if they are willing to donate some of their filter material to you, it would give you a head start cycling your filter. Just make sure their tank is healthy, so you don't transfer their problems over to yours!

 

[tonydb]

ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 

[ADW1988]

ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 
you can still add it if you like but most are redundant and depend on shelf life etc and other variables... I'm not too clued up on the science behind the filter starts tbh... all I know is my Tetra Safe start didn't work.

 

[the_lock_man]

ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 
Plants will use up some of the ammonia as food, effectively, they are reducing the bioload on the filter, so yes in that respect they will help, so long as you don't immediately remove them once the cycle is established.
 
 

 

ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 
you can still add it if you like but most are redundant and depend on shelf life etc and other variables... I'm not too clued up on the science behind the filter starts tbh... all I know is my Tetra Safe start didn't work.
 

 
Funny, that, as Safe Start is one of the ones that I hear good things about.

 

[ADW1988]

 

ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 
Plants will use up some of the ammonia as food, effectively, they are reducing the bioload on the filter, so yes in that respect they will help, so long as you don't immediately remove them once the cycle is established.
 
 

 


ok so if I was to buy and add that ammonia would I need to stop adding the filter start stuff I got with my package?
 
I've also been told the live plants can help with the cycle process ..is that true? and if so what plants are recommended?

 
you can still add it if you like but most are redundant and depend on shelf life etc and other variables... I'm not too clued up on the science behind the filter starts tbh... all I know is my Tetra Safe start didn't work.
 

 
Funny, that, as Safe Start is one of the ones that I hear good things about.
 


 
As have I which is why I went for it and by all accounts it's worked for some.. I'm just one case where it didn't

 

[tonydb]

ok so I took your advice and ordered the ammonia and test kit from the above links. Just hope I get this right !

 

[ADW1988]

ok so I took your advice and ordered the ammonia and test kit from the above links. Just hope I get this right !

 
you will, honest... the Cycling page in my signature is really good and if you get stuck or need any clarification on any of the steps, stick it in the Cycling your tank forum section, or of course on this thread. Best of luck..
 
While cycling, you might see no change for a bit - that is fine and all part and parcel to the process. Patience is a virtue.  
I raised my temp slightly whilst cycling... Off the top of my head around 83-85 degrees Farenheit... It helps apparently.
as Meeresstille quite rightly said, if you know someone with a tropical tank, you can borrow some of their media. Ie gravel/from filter.. this can speed up the cycle...

 

[tonydb]

There is just one thing that is slightly confusing me...
 
The calculator you kindly supplied the link for, My tank is listed on the box it came is as W60-D32-H37.And a 64L capacity
 
Now I've entered those numbers into the calculator (correctly I think),I took my own measurements as those gave me a 71 litre capacity.I got L59-W31-H35 which gave me my correct litres 64.
 
Now that gave me a required number of 0.74 is that correct and when do I take the 5-10% off for décor?

 

[ADW1988]

There is just one thing that is slightly confusing me...
 
The calculator you kindly supplied the link for, My tank is listed on the box it came is as W60-D32-H37.And a 64L capacity
 
Now I've entered those numbers into the calculator (correctly I think),I took my own measurements as those gave me a 71 litre capacity.I got L59-W31-H35 which gave me my correct litres 64.
 
Now that gave me a required number of 0.74 is that correct and when do I take the 5-10% off for décor?

 
Did you change units to cm's? .. I just used your measurements and got 64L
 
Litres - 64
Desired PPM - 3PPM (5 is unnecessarily high 3PPM is more than enough).
The % of ammonia in that one says 9-10% on the label so I left it at 9.5%
Gives you 2ml of ammonia solution needed.
 
You may need a pipette or some way of measuring the 2ml Ammonia solution.. some on ebay - look for 5ml pipettes/OR I have loads.. DM me and I'm more than happy to send you one 1st Class... Wont be sent till tomorrow tho

as at work and will miss the post today.

 

[tonydb]

ah ok I see what I have done.
 
I've put 64 in the litre in the converter and got 14.1 volume. Then in the cycle part at the bottom I've put 14.1 into volume and got 0.45 required.
 
If I could figure out how to post a screen shot I would