Guppy Constantly Swimming At Surface?

[Aquapotts]

Hi, I am a new fish owner and still learning the basics.

I have a Biorb 90 (60 litres) to which I have added 3 guppies and it is in the early stages of cycling (two weeks since adding fish, ammonia levels at 4ppm, no sign of nitrites or nitrates, completing 10% water changes daily).

Two of the guppies seem healthy, swimming and chasing most the time and using the whole tank.

The third guppy has always been a bit of a loner and has for the last 3 days taken to swimming constantly against the bubbles at the surface. He does this tirelessly for the day until the lights go on in the evening (and then behaves "normal", joining in with the others). In addition to this I have noticed a change in colour towards the back of him and the black seems dull in patches on either side, but is somewhat reflective when it catches the light.

Is there anything wrong with my guppy? Or is this behaviour and appearance normal?

Instinct tells me that he may be stressed because the level of ammonia and the research I have done could imply that this has caused some parasites on his skin. It doesnt' look like ich or white spot, however I'm not sure what the "Sliminess" problem looks like - the patch on my guppy looks dry rather than slimey). I have a hospital tank set up just in case I need to isolate and start treatment, but I do not want to transfer him and cause unneccesary stess.

 

[OldMan47]

Welcome to the forum Aquapotts.

There is no doubt that all of your guppies are suffering. My guess is that you are using paper test strips and they are being pessimistic about ammonia right now. I seriously doubt even guppies surviving an ammonia of over 2.0 unless you have a very low pH. Ignore the advice you may have received about small water changes. Try doing a 80% water change with a proper dechlorinator and see if your fish don't look much better almost immediately. While doing a fish-in cycle, we try to keep both ammonia and nitrites at less than 0.25 ppm. For you, at your point in the cycle, that will mean several huge water changes if your test results are accurate. Wait at least an hour between water changes so that you can get some mixing before testing again.
Around here we depend mainly on the liquid reagent type test kits, the ones with the little test tubes, for our water parameter testing. The one we know best is the API master freshwater test kit but other manufacturers also make good ones. They are often a bit dear locally but can be had cheap on places like E-Bay.

 

[Aquapotts]

Great, thank you so much for your help.

Yes, I have been using the paper strips. The Dummies guide to freshwater fish implied it wasn't until ammonia levels grew that the nitrifying bacteria would become present, it wasn't until I felt my guppy wasn't well that I did some more research and obviously this was wrong.

Sad news... I'm pretty sure my stressed out guppy has died, but I've put him in my hospital tank (just in case, but not hopeful). My concern is now for the other two fish. I have just completed as close to an 80% water change as I can (probably nearer 75%) and added API stress coat to treat the water, and matched the temperature to the water in the Biorb.

For the moment I don't have the liquid test, but will have to invest in this first thing in the morning - it's unfortunate I have to work as I would like to do hourly changes to bring the levels down, but should be able to do atleast one more tonight and again in the morning.

Going to test the levels now... is there anything more I can do the help the fish? They are going round and round the tank quite fast - I thought this was a game they were playing, but now I'm worried they are being affected by the ammonia too.

 

[beechey]

my guppy live at the top of the tank to

 

[Aquapotts]

My ammonia test strip indicates 3.0ppm (it was at least 6.0ppm this morning). I also have interpet ammonia remover - should I use this now, I think it will mean not be able to do my next water change for 2 hours.

Please help...

 

[Harlequins]

I would do a large water change with dechlorinated water anyway,you need to get that ammonia down fast!!

 

[Aquapotts]

Thanks for your reply. I will start this now then. Will this cause stress to my fish? They are constantly swimming round and round towards the bottom as though they are a little panicked.

 

[Harlequins]

A large water change will do them better than swimming in all that ammonia,its best to try to keep on top of the ammonia,after doing this water change test the water again,if its still above 0.25 do another one,ideally you need to keep it has close to zero has you can,otherwise your fish will suffer or maybe die.

Water changes are key in doing fish in cycles has opposed to bottles products and it will improve your fishies well being.

 

[Aquapotts]

I'm part way through a water change now, I will let you know how I get on - I wish I'd understood all this from the beginning... thanks for your help again...

 

[Harlequins]

Good luck I'm still relatively a newbie only had fishes since may,but i learnt the hard way of fish in cycle,luckily never lost any fish,its ok if you keep on top on the ammonia and nitrite during the cycling period,hence lots of water changes and don't feed to much has this produces ammonia also.

 

[OldMan47]

When you have done all the water changes that you can, go ahead with the ammonia controller. It may have the minor benefit of making the ammonia the less lethal form until you get the chance to reduce the ammonia with a water change. Until your water shows less than 1 ppm on the paper strips, you need to keep after the water changes. After that try watching the fish instead of the chemistry to tell you when things are OK. Meanwhile you need to get a proper test kit so that we can do more to help you and your fish get through this. In the old days of the hobby, before test kits became readily available, we did some large frequent water changes and had no way to monitor, we didn't believe the paper strips even then. A daily water change of 30 to 50% was considered appropriate for the first month or so back then, but we lost a lot of fish too.

 

[Aquapotts]

Thanks Oldman47 and Harlequins - I've just finished another water change and will be getting up early to do another one in the morning. Atleast I know I'm doing the best I can for them - if only I'd trusted my instincts and recognised the behaviour of my other fish sooner - Dash was a stunning Guppy and I really thought I was was doing my best for them all (I am very sad about it and so very sorry - I will miss him)...

I hope I've done enough for the others...

 

[Aquapotts]

Now that I've had a few moments to myself I have been able to test the water... the good news is that my ammonia levels are now where they should be and are reading as being around 0.25 on the paper strips, I never thought I'd get there! Thank you! Also, my 2 remaining fish seem a little less frantic, but... they were always the stronger of the three and I really want them to get through this!!! I will be taking your advice with the regular water changes daily while the tank is cycling.

Are you able to answer some questions I now have, as this has turned everything I thought I knew upsidedown... when should I expect the good bacteria to start and how do I handle the Nitrite? Is it with water changes still?

I previously thought that high levels of ammonia were nessecary to then be converted to high levels of nitrite and then in to nitrate which is then removed with water changes. I am now a little confused... if the levels of ammonia are always kept at 0.25 or below my understanding is obviously not right?

 

[OldMan47]

Until the tank has finished cycling, you will be doing lots of water changes. It gets even worse when the ammonia starts processing to nitrites. Each 1 ppm of ammonia will become over 2 1/2 ppm of nitrite so the effect becomes amplified. In the meantime try to get a liquid type test kit so that you will have some semi-accurate idea of your water chemistry. Even the liquid type kits are far from perfect but they really put the paper strips to shame when it comes to accuracy. If you keep an eye on your fish and get very observant, you can probably tell when everything is not right. In the old days, that is when we would do a 50% water change. As I said earlier, we still lost fish, but not as many as if we had not kept a close eye on things. With a decent test kit, in these days, there is no reason to lose fish to water chemistry issues.

 

[Aquapotts]

Now that I understand a bit more about keeping the ammonia down I've been able to a keen eye on it and have the liquid test for improved accuracy.

The levels have today just increased over 0.25ppm (though I find it is tricky to tell between the colour chart, but will read it as the strongest colour to be safe), how big of a water change would you recommend?

Also, you mentioned that 2.5ppm nitrite comes from just 1ppm ammonia (I'm learning something new everyday! thanks!). When the cycle eventually moves on, will this mean more frequent water changes of just bigger water changes? I'll do whatever I can...