Got some Test Kits

[Angry_Platy]

I have always tested for ammo, nitrite and nitrate and pH and since having a planted tank I have also measure CO2 and KH. Anyways, I got a master test kit today and tested everything included (except calcium)!!!

Results
free Iron = 0
chelated iron = 0

phosphate = 0.25ppm

nitrate = <5ppm

ammo = 0ppm
nitrite = 0ppm

pH = 7.2
KH = 200mg/ml (11.2 degrees)

Which puts my CO2 at 21.2ppm. Which is pretty good considering I last changed the mixture (I use DIY) 10 days ago and I am due to do a water change SOON!!!

I know my plants need iron. So if I have none in the water does this mean my plants have deficiencies. All my plants (aisde from ym dying tonina) look good without obvious signs of deficiencies. And phosphate....I thought it would be highr since I have a minor algae issue at the moment. Erm....yeah.....Or does it mean that because I am due to do a water change the levels will go up with the new water (meaning the plants have used up any that were in last weeks liquid ferts dose)

So I got the master test kit to monitor my levels as I will be using the E.I. VERY soon. I ordered the trace ferts by Seachem but the shop sent me Seachem Flourish Excel (carbon) which I don't need. The Excel will be going back tomorrow and they will end me the right one!!! Which means I won't start on the EI method for another week or so.....sigh.....

 

[zig]

If you dose Seachem flourish as you micronutrients it should contain enough iron so as not to have to dose seperatly. So i wouldnt do anything for the moment, i wouldnt order an iron supplement.

I presume these tests are for your tankwater, what you should do is test your tapwater for phosphate, nitrate, Gh and Kh and make a note of these, as you will need to know these if you want to try EI.

Id say your algae is probably due to the co2 levels being a bit low, 30ppm is really the target, so you may have to do a bit of work on that.

But other than that i cant see anything wrong with the levels you have tested, nothing that cant be corrected, like i say i wouldnt really worry about the iron if you are going to use Seachem flourish its really the co2 levels you may have to tinker around with.

So if you just find out your tapwater results and make a note of them, and if the Gh or Kh results are quite low you may have to buffer your water, but chances are they are fine without any additives.

 

[Angry_Platy]

OK. I tested my water.....RESULTS:

Phosphate= 0ppm
Nitrate= 0ppm

KH=40ppm (2.24deg)
GH=40ppm (2.24deg)

So I have soft water out of my tap but once it goes into the tank and CO2 gets added the water changes a LOT (see above)....does this mean I still need to buffer my water and if so how do I go about this??

I retested the tank water this morning also and it came up the same as yesterday (GH 220ppm-12.3deg and KH 200ppm-11.2deg)....

WEIRD I KNOW!!!

So I have something in my tank raising the hardness.....I have plants, gravel and fish...OH...and an airstone for CO2 diffusion and laterite in the gravel.

 

[zig]

Ok im at a bit of a loss.......lost for words lol

Im not sure whats going on, what way are you running the airstone, do you have a powerhead on it or something like that?

Another question what Ph reading is the tapwater?

But mainly the airstone thats really what im interested in for the moment.

 

[Angry_Platy]

Tapwater pH=7.4

The airstone is attached to the CO2 D.I.Y bottles...no powerhead!!!

Does that leave you even more lost for words??? I tested using the same test kit like 5 minutes apart then repeated 10 minutes later!!!

I also have ceramic noodles in my Fluval canister filter and foan in that and the aquaclear.....

HELP!!!

 

[zig]

Ok what type of test kit is it, what brand?

The tapwater should be left sitting preferaly overnight to get a proper Ph reading, but i would imagine it will only be slightly different not enough to be of any real concern.

Do you have another Ph test kit?

The Ph in the tank should be dropping as you inject the co2, so normally if the tap Ph reading was correct at 7.4 i would expect to see the Ph in the tank drop to about Ph 6.4 or 6.6 or somewhere around that, it wouldnt just drop by .2 as the readings are suggesting.

If you have another Ph kit other than the master kit i would do another test on the tapwater and the tankwater and see if the results compare.

It wont be anything to do with the filter i would doubt it anyway, its more than likely the testkit, so maybe try the above if you have another kit and post back, in the meantime i'll keep thinking.

The tap readings seem to be correct a lowish Ph is normally associated with low Kh and Gh, and thats what you have.

Edit: maybe check the tankwater Ph again with the master testkit if you dont have another testkit, just to double check, and also what increments does the master kit work off for the Ph.

 

[Angry_Platy]

Ok what type of test kit is it, what brand?

Test kit is made by Hagen.

Do you have another Ph test kit?

I have 2 other pH test kits. One made by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals and the other made by "Aussie Test lab" or something. All 3 test the same for tapwater and tank water

I just tested everything again tonight using both pH test kits but I only have the master test kit for KH and GH. Everything tested the same as I mentioned.

As a bit of history, prior to using CO2, the tank water matched the tapwater almpost exactly. Its only since I started using CO2 that my KH/GH went really high yet the pH pretty much stayed the same. I did post about it on here at the time since I expected a large drop in my pH with rising CO2 levels. It seemed the KH/GH adjusted but the pH remained constant. I did post about it when I first started using CO2 HERE I wasn't worried at the time and I am not overly concerned now. I will obviously keep a close eye on pH though as I up the CO2 even more using more DIY bottles etc.

 

[George Farmer]

Very strange. My KH and GH used to creep up gradually because my old substrate contained lime - no way near the massive increase that you're experiencing though.

It's doubtful but the carbonic acids produced by the CO2/water reaction may be dissolving your gravel rapidly. I doubt this very much though as your pH measures above 7.

Are you using bi-carb in your DIY CO2 - again it is doubtful but some bi-carb may be contaminating your hardness readings.

All the above is very unlikely to raise your hardness as suggested by your kits. I cannot believe that you water chemistry can change change so much in such a short time. I would say your kits are dodgy.

What I would do -

1. Test your tap water - make a note of KH and GH.
2. Test your tank water - make a note of KH and GH.
3. Do a 50% water change. Do a bit of simple maths to see if your kits reflect what the water change should acheive i.e. if your tap KH is 2 and your tank KH is 10 then your 50% water change should leave you with a KH of 6.

If it works then it seems the kits are working. Then I too am lost for words!