Good Catfish For Cichlid Tank

Elisabeth83

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I'm looking for a catfish to put in with my pair of Blue Acaras to eat their eggs. I was suggested a Raphael catfish...but I'm not sure if I can get my hands on one so what other South American catfish would work?

I guess it doesn't have to be a catfish from South America so any other types of catfish suggestions are welcome too. I should mention the tank is 50 gallons so it needs to be a catfish that wont outgrow it.
 
The best catfish for Cichlid set ups are those from the Synodontis family which are well adapted to life with aggressive fish due to their heavily armoured heads, short stubby barbels and thick spiny fins. They are adept egg theives which take advantage of their nocturnal lifestyles to take the eggs while the Cichlids sleap.
 
I agree I would put a vote in for any synodontis species. I think my favorite would be S. Eupterus as in my experience they spend much more time out in the open then anyo of the other species of this genus I have kept.

Carl
 
I think the two most common ones that I'll be able to find around here are S. Eupterus (feather fin catfish) and S. Nigriventris (upside down catfish)...out of those two is the Eupterus the better choice? I thought maybe the Nigriventris might be better because it stays smaller but maybe that doesn't matter since the tank is 50 gallons?

From sites I've been reading on the upside down catfish should be kept in groups. I haven't found anything on sites that say if the feather fin should be kept in groups or alone? I think I read awhile ago a post on here about them being aggressive with eachother..I could be wrong though and thinking of something else.
 
If you want an egg eater, then check out Synodontis multipunctatus, plenty of info on PlanetCatfish.
 
The best catfish for Cichlid set ups are those from the Synodontis family which are well adapted to life with aggressive fish due to their heavily armoured heads, short stubby barbels and thick spiny fins. They are adept egg theives which take advantage of their nocturnal lifestyles to take the eggs while the Cichlids sleap.

i would agree with synos as the best fish for an African cichlid set up but for SA cichlids then Synos, limas, and doras are great in addition to synos
 
Well I actually had a choice between S. Multipunctatus and S. Schoutedeni and I went ahead and got the Schoutedeni. I didn't see your reply Ferris until I was already home. Maybe if I did I would of chosen the Multipunctatus instead. I hope the Schoutedeni does just as good of a job. :/
 
i would agree with synos as the best fish for an African cichlid set up but for SA cichlids then Synos, limas, and doras are great in addition to synos

Limas (presuming you mean Sorubim lima) are not egg theives and are not built to withstand attacks from aggressive Cichlids as their long delicate barbels and soft rayed fins are easily damaged, they also grow too large for a standard 50 gallon aquarium needing a tank with a minimum of a 18" width and prefferably much larger as they can easily top 12 inches in length..

Doras (catfish of the Doradidae family) are good scavenger/egg stealers but unfortunately all the smaller species are about as active and interesting as having a rock in the tank.

The shoutendeni will be fine, all Synodontis are noted egg theives.
 
i would agree with synos as the best fish for an African cichlid set up but for SA cichlids then Synos, limas, and doras are great in addition to synos

Limas (presuming you mean Sorubim lima) are not egg theives and are not built to withstand attacks from aggressive Cichlids as their long delicate barbels and soft rayed fins are easily damaged, they also grow too large for a standard 50 gallon aquarium needing a tank with a minimum of a 18" width and prefferably much larger as they can easily top 12 inches in length..

Doras (catfish of the Doradidae family) are good scavenger/egg stealers but unfortunately all the smaller species are about as active and interesting as having a rock in the tank.

The shoutendeni will be fine, all Synodontis are noted egg theives.


my bad i was thinking a 75 gallon tank for some reason.

ive heard that doras are more active in groups but mine unfortunately is about as active as a rock but theyre actually very interesting when they do come out. they dont see so good and occasionally i see mine skimmin around at the surface upside down
 
I've had the snyo for about a week now and he's taken a liking to hanging out behind the filter. I've put in bloodworm and other foods after lights out (I can still kinda see in the tank) but I haven't once seen him come out and eat. He must be getting some though as he's still alive and healthy looking.

It took awhile for the Acaras to accept him but he was able to hold his own and was pretty nifty swimming around the pieces of wood. Watching him outsmart the Acaras was kinda like watching an episode of the three stooges or something :p

The Acaras are getting ready to spawn (she'll probably lay eggs within the day) so I hope the snyo does his job and eats the eggs!
 
I find Pvc piping works well for their lairs, if you wanted to move him from behind the filter. I know the multi's do better in groups, don't kow about those ones though.
 
Yeah I could try some PVC pipes...I use them in my peacock gudgeon tank and have pieces left over. Thanks for the tip :thumbs:

About this syno being in a group..I'm not sure about it either...I haven't found much information on it. At the store they were all hanging out in a group...but from things I've read about synos in general is they hang out in groups while young but get territorial when older. If he a syno that does better in a group I'd like to know so I can get a couple more to make him more comfortable.

I was just reading this on planet catfish:

"Although a sociable species, fighting can break out among a group sub-adult and adult fish. Usually this is a turf dispute, but these fish have very good teeth and can make quite a mess of each others fins and flanks if you have got the environment wrong.

Often this aggression can be quelled by a good water current and the addition of a few more caves and retreats. Or you could go the other way, it is interesting that if kept without any hideaways at all (including an external filter and under tank heating) Synodontis don't appear to bother about each others company or the need for privacy."

But that doesn't really clarify if they can/should be kept alone or can/should be kept in a group. I don't want fights or wounds but I don't want mine to be unhappy if he needs to be in a small group. Say like cories you wouldn't only keep one..as they feel more comfortable in a group.
 
My synos are in groups. The like their groups. Yes you get some bickering but I've yet to see even a minor scratch on any of them. I'd say mine don't really have enough space each and really want to upgrade the eupterus' to a larger tank sometime over 2006 but it doesn't seem to worry them. They're very sociable. They all have places to hide if they want them. I'd recommend having another two added to your solo fellow. :) And give them places to hide in if they want them.
Hugs,
P.
 
Hmm well seeing as the tank is 50 gallons I guess I could get another syno or two...just as long as I have enough hiding spots for all of them. The little guy I picked up 2 weeks ago didn't do his job of eating the cichlids eggs so yesterday I had to get rid of the eggs myself :-( I didn't want to have to do it myself...

I wonder why he didn't eat them? Maybe because he's new to the tank or maybe because he does need to be in a group and he's not feeling very comfortable?
 
If he's a captive bred baby he may well not have a clue about egg eating. Inexperience can cause some trouble, as can finickity eaters. One of my synos will eat nothing but a certain type of pellets. He'll even refuse blood worm in favour of it. :S He's really that daft. :lol: Being that my eupterus don't touch the livebearer fry ever (My angel keeps the numbers down) I'm not entirely suprised he didn't. It's the multipunctatious and petricola species that are particularly apt at egg eating.
Hugs,
P.
 

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