Goldfish

[freddythefrog]

Hi. bought DD fish tank for goldfish.It came with pump/filter that is inside the tank at the top. sorry for being a bit basic but should the whole unit be under the water level(waves along the top and water clear) or does the top of the unit where the cable is, go above the water level so there are millions of little bubbles in the tank....
Thank you

 

[rewlyn]

Hi. bought DD fish tank for goldfish.It came with pump/filter that is inside the tank at the top. sorry for being a bit basic but should the whole unit be under the water level(waves along the top and water clear) or does the top of the unit where the cable is, go above the water level so there are millions of little bubbles in the tank....
Thank you

it should be blowing bubbles, it helps airate the tank

have you got fish in there yet

 

[freddythefrog]

Hi. bought DD fish tank for goldfish.It came with pump/filter that is inside the tank at the top. sorry for being a bit basic but should the whole unit be under the water level(waves along the top and water clear) or does the top of the unit where the cable is, go above the water level so there are millions of little bubbles in the tank....
Thank you

it should be blowing bubbles, it helps airate the tank

have you got fish in there yet

yes 2. one doesnt seem to be swiming much though....had tank set up and running a couple days first..
Just not sure about he tloads of bubbles(tiny ones) or if it should be clearer....

 

[knig6]

Welcome to the forum, and the bubble should be cause, like a wave of bubble going down then up, over and over again, it is basic, but did you start the fishless or fish in cycling?

must be reason why your gold fish not moving , also you need tap water conditioner, API would be a good choice, i had a hard time also, but my fish seems good and chilling, i used some bacteria product(do not use if you are unsure) and tap water conditioner, wait for few weeks, buy testkit also and check water level and keep this forum updated with your level so we all can help you to tell you if the water level and all that good, cause you got to have a mature filter and all that stuff, i dont know much, but FHM proberly would help you



-knig

 

[BecciMac1987]

Welcome to the forum, and the bubble should be cause, like a wave of bubble going down then up, over and over again, it is basic, but did you start the fishless or fish in cycling?

must be reason why your gold fish not moving , also you need tap water conditioner, API would be a good choice, i had a hard time also, but my fish seems good and chilling, i used some bacteria product(do not use if you are unsure) and tap water conditioner, wait for few weeks, buy testkit also and check water level and keep this forum updated with your level so we all can help you to tell you if the water level and all that good, cause you got to have a mature filter and all that stuff, i dont know much, but FHM proberly would help you



-knig

Mmmm close but not quite! You need to use pure ammonia. Adding bacteria product and leaving for a few weeks will do diddly squat. Check the pinned articles on cycling. My main concern is your tank size. For one goldfish you need a 3foot tank ish (20gallons or so), and an extra 10 gallons for every goldfish thereafter. How big is your tank?

 

[pippoodle]

First of all welcome to the forum

Your tank hasn't been cycled so you'll have to keep doing water changes with dechlorinated tap water daily to keep the fish healthy - cheapest dechlorinator products are for ponds - tetrapond aquasafe is a good one and cheap and easy to use . just add required amount for the amount of tap water you are replacing to remove harmful chemicals from the tap water

what size is the tank in litre/gallon - dont worry too much about the size of the tank to start off with if the gold fish are only small , we can come to that later when the tank is cycled

can you find a link for the tank and post it here so we know what sort it is

THE most important thing to do is to read this link on fish in cycling

<a href="http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306" target="_blank">http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=224306</a>

Then go and buy a liquid test kit - API master kits are ones of the best and easiest to use
you need this to monitor ammonia and nitrites in the tank ---- these are poisonous to fish and will cause permanent damage and premature death if fish are left in tanks with this for any amount of time

any questions dont hesitate to reply on this thread and someone will help

 

[knig6]

Mmmm close but not quite! You need to use pure ammonia. Adding bacteria product and leaving for a few weeks will do diddly squat. Check the pinned articles on cycling. My main concern is your tank size. For one goldfish you need a 3foot tank ish (20gallons or so), and an extra 10 gallons for every goldfish thereafter. How big is your tank?

thank you for making it more clear =]
i got like 6 or 5 comet goldfish, i heard they grow awfully big!

 

[waterdrop]

Agree with pippoodle up there, the most important thing right away is to understand and perform those large daily water changes and to do them in the right way. Use the conditioner (liquid chemical product that removes chlorine or chloramine as mentioned) as per instructions or you can even dose it at 1.5x but not more than 2x what the instructions say. You can roughly temperature match the new water by using your hand to get it right before adding it back to the tank.)

Then, as said, next priority is off to the store to find a liquid-reagent based test kit. The one most of us use and like is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. The Nutrafin Mini-Master Test Kit is also good but be sure not to get paper test strips, they are worthless.

After you figure out all the shaking and testing, post up your results for both your tap water and your tank water and the members will take it from there!

~~waterdrop~~

 

[fatheadminnow]

Some great advice from the members above.

Sorry to hear that you did not perform a fishless cycle before you added fish to your tank.

You are now in what is called a "Fish-in" cycle, where you want to colonize beneficail bacteria (Autotrophic) bacteria in your filter to process the Ammonia that is given off by your fish, as well as the NitrIte once it becomes present.

Some things to know:

If your fish are exposed for long periods of time to any level of Ammonia greater than .25 ppm, it will give them permanent gill damage.

Same with NitrIte, any level of NitrIte over .25 ppm will give your fish permanent nerve damage.

NitrAte, starts to get harmful to fish if it is 50+ ppm.

To test for Ammonia, NitrIte, NitrAte and pH, you must buy a test kit. Like stated above, the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, is a very good test kit to buy. It is very accurate for the price it is, and will last you a long time.

Do not buy strip test kits, as these are extremely inaccurate.

Both of these toxins, ammonia and nitrite; if the fish are continued to be exposed to high levels of these, will be fatal to the fish.

During a fish-in cycle, the only way to keep these levels down is by doing water changes, and eventually, on average 4-6 weeks, you will have colonized enough beneficial bacteria in your filter that will process ammonia and nitrite for you, and they will constantly be at zero.

Please read link that pippoodle sent you, and understand it the best you can. If you follow these guidelines, it will ensure that you perform the Fish-in cycle properly, and keep your fish safer, for the most part.

Please feel free to ask any questions!

-FHM

 

[BecciMac1987]

Guys dont mean to be picky and obv you are all giving correct advice, but if the OP only has, for example, a bowl or an aquastart 320 etc, cycling is in fair, pretty pointless. The fish are going to be creating more waste than can be dealt with. If its a bowl, our advice has to be get rid of the goldfish now, if its a 3 footer then yes, cycle. We need OP to come back and let us know!

 

[fatheadminnow]

Guys dont mean to be picky and obv you are all giving correct advice, but if the OP only has, for example, a bowl or an aquastart 320 etc, cycling is in fair, pretty pointless. The fish are going to be creating more waste than can be dealt with. If its a bowl, our advice has to be get rid of the goldfish now, if its a 3 footer then yes, cycle. We need OP to come back and let us know!

Yes, you are right on correct about this.

But, it is also extremely important that the OP understands the basics of cycling a tank as well.

You are also true that the ammonia being produced by the goldfish in that size tank is going to be more concentrated, but that does not mean the tank cannot cycle.

All it means is that the OP is going to be busier with performing more water changes.

Like you said, we need the OP to come back on to clear up a few things.

-FHM

 

[pippoodle]

i think it's a 20 gallon tank looking at the other posts / hopefully it is any smaller THEN the fish HAVE to be returned to store
as 20g will be fine for the time being for the goldies while they are tiny and the tank is cycling
when all of this has been done then the op can look into getting a bigger tank or rehoming them to a pond
but the tiny goldfish arent going to suffer (size wise) in that tank for quite a while (fish in cycling can cause them some suffering so thats the most important thing at the moment)

 

[knig6]

im in process of doing a fish-in cycle thanks to FHM, =]

my fish are rocking!!!they just chilling and eating their food regular

good luck with your goldfish freddy