Flashing

[arielsworld17974]

So I have noticed all my fish are "flashing" all of them. And I don't know what to do. I don't see anymore symptoms, no white spots like you would see with ich. I have noticed these little white, very small, worm like things on the glass. Not swimming in the water. They look like planeria (however you spell it). But they're smaller than normal planeria. And I've had planeria before and you can see their rounded heads.
I have also noticed that there are furry stuff all over the plants and decorations. I just cleaned it really well about 2 weeks ago. And I vacuum once a month.
My angel fish have a little furry stuff on their long tenticals in front. What could this be? I've been trying to research it and can't find anything.
My fry in my other tank are doing it too. Just no furry stuff. Just flashing.
Please help.

 

[goldfinger]

Some thing is irratating there slime coat?
Do a big water change, clean the filters.
If I leave the gravel dirty for more than two weeks I find white fungus on some of the fishes, but remember always to change the water after a really good clean and only clean half of the gravel in a day, to leave some benificial bacterial to recover. But do all those thing over a few days as to not crash the filters and cause too much disturbance.
If its a fungus problem try Primafix or Melafix by API.
The worst thing for you to do is panic and doing everything all at once, which wll cause more stress to the stock & enviroment!
If its a bacterial issue internal then I'm sure someone can advise as you a product as you based in the states and I'm UK.
Jay

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Clean any and all of the gravel.  The bacteria live on all the surfaces of the tank (and a great deal live in the filter), so there's no concern in cleaning too much of the substrate.  
 
 
 
Big water change and often would give the fish the best chance at letting their natural immune system deal with whatever the problem is... kind of like just keeping a fresh bandage on a wound for people.  The immune system of the fish is generally quite good, as long as the fish aren't dealing with other stress factors.  
 
 
Keep a close watch on the fish.  A possible cause would be gill flukes, which is tough to diagnose, since seeing the parasite can be nigh unto impossible.  If that is the cause, there are a few options - but the treatment really comes down to the fish you have in the tank.  
 
 
I'd suggest a 50% water change either every other day, or every 3rd day, until you can positively ID the problem... and who knows, its possible, that the problem could be solved with just that little step.

 

[goldfinger]

I find if you disturb the gravel too much especially if fish is ill, it can cause more problems as the water column takes time to settle, and you have more contaminates floating in the water, which the filter will take time to clear, but can hamper the fishes.
If the gravel is fine it can release pockets of Ammonia i.e rotting food and waste traped under the gravel until disturbed roughly.
Purely going by experience with gravel cleaning chores over the years what the fishes like and what is too much for them in one go.

 

[arielsworld17974]

I have read that it could possibly be the conditioner I'm using. I did switch around the time it started. So maybe get a better quality conditioner.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to clean it really good tomorrow. I never clean the filters. If it isn't flowing well I rinse them in a bowl of tank water.
I think I'll cut down on their feedings too.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to work on it tomorrow morning.

Oh I also have noticed all the fish have been pooping A LOT. It's normal colored just so huge! Super long! I don't know what that's about. I feed them the same as I always have. So I don't know what that's about.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

I find if you disturb the gravel too much especially if fish is ill, it can cause more problems as the water column takes time to settle, and you have more contaminates floating in the water, which the filter will take time to clear, but can hamper the fishes.
If the gravel is fine it can release pockets of Ammonia i.e rotting food and waste traped under the gravel until disturbed roughly.
Purely going by experience with gravel cleaning chores over the years what the fishes like and what is too much for them in one go.

 
If it is carefully vacuumed, that is not a concern.  If it is merely disturbed, and not vacuumed, then I'd agree with you.

Oh I also have noticed all the fish have been pooping A LOT. It's normal colored just so huge! Super long! I don't know what that's about. I feed them the same as I always have. So I don't know what that's about.

 
A day's fast and a bit of frozen peas (defrosted and deshelled) wouldn't be a bad move either.

I have read that it could possibly be the conditioner I'm using. I did switch around the time it started. So maybe get a better quality conditioner.

 
Which conditioner did you switch to?  

 

[NickAu]

 
I have read that it could possibly be the conditioner I'm using.

My LFS put me onto Easy Life I do not know what is in it and don't care all I know is I love it and so do the fish.

Easy-Life fluid filter medium — English
When first added it turns the water cloudy for a few hours and then clears right up.
 

 
So I have noticed all my fish are "flashing" all of them.

 
Is that in the Live bearer tank?  Are you adding a bit of salt?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

 
So I have noticed all my fish are "flashing" all of them.
 

 
Is that in the Live bearer tank?  Are you adding a bit of salt?

 
Livebearers do not require salt.  Livebearers prefer 'harder' water.  Adding a bit of crushed coral to the filter or similar would be better than adding salt.

 

[arielsworld17974]

I do add a tiny bit of salt to both tanks. Like every other water change. Like maybe 25% of what you would normally put in a tank.
I use aqua safe by tetra. I don't think it's very good. It's supposed to promote good slime coat health but I think it might be the source of the problem.
I will look into a better conditioner. Anyone in the states know of a good one that's reasonably priced.
Thanks guys!

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Prime is a really good one, and when you look at how little is needed, it is very reasonably priced.
 
And I'd eliminate the salt, and just do water changes to eliminate it.   (Don't do large ones, maybe 20-30% max weekly.)  There is really no reason to add salt to the tank.
 
Adding salt like that, every other water change causes a fluctuation in the salinity, which might be the cause for the problem.   Constant water parameters, even softer water for fish that prefer harder water, is better than fluctuating values.
 
 
I would like to know what your kH and gH are though, as these are more important.  And what are the fish that are in the tank?

 

[arielsworld17974]

That makes total sense I never thought about that. The fluctuations. I will illuminate the salt.

I'll look into prime. I will go to my lfs tomorrow morning. Thanks for all the help!

 

[arielsworld17974]

Noticed this morning that a couple of them have some clear, not white, poop. I didn't feed them last night and I gave them peas this morning.
Going to really clean the tank here soon. Got to go get a new conditioner first.
So fingers crossed.

Don't know what the clear poop is about. Constipation? I don't see how they would have parisites because I haven't introduced new fish in months. And my frozen food is disease free. So they say so we will see.

 

[Byron]

Flashing occurs when something irritates the gills.  This can be one of several things, from the beginnings of ich (ich first attacks gills) or similar parasites, to an internal protozoan that will aside from flashing never have visible symptoms, to something in the water which can be chlorine, ammonia, nitrite, high nitrate, salt, chemicals, medications...the list is endless.  As others have suggested, do not jump to conclusions, and do water changes.
 
At the first sign of trouble, I do a major water change of 70-75% of the tank.  This can be repeated daily, or alternate days.  Assuming the tap water parameters (GH, pH) are reasonably close to your tank water, this cannot do any harm but can be extremely beneficial.  As JD said, often this is the only "cure" needed.
 
Vacuum the substrate thoroughly during these water changes, at least the first ones.  Worms on the glass is likely due to a dirty substrate.  This may not be the issue with the flashing, but cleaning it up won't hurt but will improve the water quality which is a benefit regardless of the issue.
 
Salt should never be added on a regular basis to any aquarium with freshwater fish.  Salt can burn the gills and skin, and at the very least it is an irritant.  Yes, the slime coat increases, but this is because the poor fish is attempting to deal with the salt.  There is no benefit to the use of salt except when used as a specific treatment for a disease, which is not the case here.
 
On the water conditioner, I would not recommend Prime unless you have need for its "added" issues like ammonia, nitrite or nitrate in the source (tap) water.  Prime does affect fish, as do any substances added to the water, and less is always better than more when it comes to additives.  Choose a water conditioner suited to your tap water; there is no benefit to increasing the TDS in the water when it is not necessary, as this further stresses fish.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Byron.

 

[NickAu]

Livebearers do not require salt.

Well that is contradicted by the following. Especially regarding Mollies.
 

 
When mollies are kept in freshwater tanks, they often become sickly. Common symptoms are fin-rot, fungus, and the "shimmies". Fin-rot is a gradual decay of the fins, often with obviously dead, grey patches on the fins. Left untreated, this will kill your fish. Fungus usually looks like fine white threads and can appear anywhere on the body, though it's most common on the fins. Again, untreated, this is serious. Both fin-rot and fungus are easily treated with over-the-counter fish medicines. The shimmies are, as the name suggests, a bit like the dance of the same name. The fish seem to tread water, wobbling from side to side. Yet again, left untreated, this will kill your fish.

The Solution

Add marine aquarium salt mix. This will turn your tank into a slightly brackish rather than freshwater aquarium and the mollies will be much healthier. Fin-rot and fungus will not set in, and if present, should fix themselves, especially if you treat with the appropriate remedy as well. The shimmies usually go away.

You don't need a lot of salt, around 3-5 grammes per litre will do the trick. Use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity (the concentration of salt in the water). You are aiming for a specific gravity of about 1.003 to 1.005. Don't add the salt to the aquarium directly! Make up some salty water in a bucket, and then pour it into the tank. Be sure and follow the instructions on the package with regard to how long you need to stir the salt into the water for, etc.

The salt doesn't just make the aquarium salty, it also raises the pH and hardness, which is just as critical for mollies.

 
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/137887-mollies-need-salt/
 
So are you now saying I shouldnt add salt to my Molly Guppie Platy tank? I set up my Live bearer tank according to those instructions almost I use 5 grammes of salt per gallon of water, Have I been wasting my time and money?

 

[eaglesaquarium]

First, mollies are a special case, unlike any of the other 'freshwater' fish in the hobby.   Mollies are found in the wild in full freshwater, brackish, and full marine.   So, when discussing mollies, we need to remember that, and not try to transfer too much 'molly fact sheet information' to other livebearers.  Mollies are not 'freshwater' fish.  They can range from full fresh to brackish to full marine... but for them to be ok in 'full fresh', it needs to be hard, alkaline water.  So, upping the hardness of your tank is perfectly fine for mollies, especially in any sort of a freshwater community set-up.
 
 
I am not going to disagree with Neale Monks.  He's a scientist who studies these fish, and his solution for adding salt to a MOLLY tank is effective, if done properly.  The problem is that it is an added step and it is best done only for brackish water communities, or species only tanks.
 
 
 
The best solution for keeping any 'freshwater' species, is to keep them in water that meets their needs.  Livebearers, specifically mollies, guppies, swords, and platies, do very well in hard water systems with no salt added.  None of them 'require' salt.  They do all tolerate salt very well compared to other freshwater fish - guppies and mollies, more so.  But, their 'needs' are hard water.
 

The key to keep in mind is that unless it is a species only tank, or livebearers only... adding salt is a problem for the OTHER fish.  In addition to that, the salinity needs to be kept CONSTANT, even in a species only tank.   Not only 
 
 
 
Seriouslyfish: molly - 

A planted tank is preferable but hard alkaline or brackish water is mandatory if the fish are to live long lives.

 
http/seriouslyfish.com/species/Poecilia-sphenops/
 

platy - 

Not critical but this species does appreciate a planted aquarium, and will be seen at its best if kept in this type of setup. X. variatus will not thrive in soft, acidic water.

http/www.seriouslyfish.com/species/xiphophorus-variatus/
 
 
guppy - 

An incredibly adaptable species that occurs in almost every imaginable biotope, from high-altitude streams toturbid swamps and ditches.
Some populations also exist in brackish conditions.
However it does tend to thrive best in habitats with lush growths of algae, marginal vegetation and/oraquatic plants.

http/www.seriouslyfish.com/species/poecilia-reticulata/
 
 
 
swordtail -

Natural populations are found in various types of habitat from sea level to around 1500 m altitude, including fast-flowing, rocky streams, to springs, ditches, ponds, and rivers containing clear to turbid water. In most cases the water is less than 1.5 m deep and there is no aquatic vegetation.
In flowing water adults tend to congregate in areas with greater current, while juveniles and subadults display a preference for quiet marginal zones.
Introduced populations may occur in springs, streams, rivers, canals, ditches, pools, artificial reservoirs and other environments, and the species exhibits a degree of tolerance to polluted conditions. Where X. helleriioccurs in large numbers outside its natural range it is thought to exert a number of negative impacts on native species and ecosystems.
Temperature: 16 – 28 °C
pH: 6.0 – 8.0
Hardness: 90 – 447 ppm

http/www.seriouslyfish.com/species/xiphophorus-hellerii/
 
 
So, what does this mean for your molly, platy, guppy tank?
 
Simply this:  these are highly adaptive fish to hard water conditions and salinity.  BUT, they do not require salt, and should not be kept in salt continually.  If your water hardness matches their needs, then your fish will be fine.  If not, adding a bit of crushed coral or similar to your filter would be far more suitable, and would maintain more stable conditions than salt.  Also, most of the plants that you might be trying to grow for these fish would be better off without the salt.