Fixing Juwel Light Bar.

[Nickski]

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ill report back tonight, thank you

 

[Nickski]

Perfect, job done.
Bodge, thank you for your time. See you around on the forums.
Really appreciated.
Nick.

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
It's my pleasure to help.. Glad to hear that you got sorted..
 
Bodge99.

 

[Nickski]

hi huys im back with another problemo, my rio 240 went the same way.
this time my 2x30w t8 ballast got flooded out, so im looking for another but my original ballast looks odd with just 3 wires coming out of it! can anyone suggest a replacement as they all seem to have more output terminals than this one.

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
You have a cold cathode ballast... You can immediately identify these as they use one connection to each tube end.
Hot cathode ballasts use two connections per tube end.
 
You'll either have to locate a cold cathode type ballast or see if you can change the hood wiring to suit a hot cathode type.
 
Some tube sockets can be opened.. If you can access the tube pin connections then I would consider making the change.
 
Cold cathode ballasts are more difficult to locate (often special order from electrical wholesalers) and can be three or four times the price of a hot cathode one.
 
Be aware that most (all?) manufacturers don't identify their ballasts as either hot or cold types.. The only way to be sure is to examine the ballast wiring schematic.
 
Just ask here if you want any specific help.
 
Bodge99

Hello,
 
I've just had a quick look online.. The Vossloh Schwabe Elxe 238527 (direct replacement for yours) is just under £40 excluding delivery..
 
I'd have a look at opening (if possible) the existing tube sockets, if I were you.
 
Bodge99

 

[Nickski]

hmm, ok  well the end caps are easy enough to open and I can see a connectors that the wire just feeds into one way, so if I purchased a 2x30w t8 ballast and enough of the right grade wire then I could rig it up then patch up the lighting bar and away we go.
Bodge, do you know what the right grade of wire would be please, its solid as opposed to stranded, which threw me a bit......
Thanks

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
Well done for getting this far..
 
I've used 1.0mm solid core lighting cable before.. You can buy this by the metre from your local DIY shop or electrical wholesaler.
e.g. http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1mm-twin-and-earth-lighting-cable-0-99p-per-m-Free-earth-sleeving-/221201156188?pt=UK_BOI_Materials_Supplies_Electrical_ET&hash=item33809dc85c
 
Just strip off the outer sheath and use the 2 insulated conductors (not the bare earth wire).
 
Don't use such stuff as bell wire or automotive cable as the insulation rating is too low.
 
The "proper" stuff is 0.8mm diameter solid core. Your local electrical wholesaler might stock it, but I've found it harder to obtain quickly. Just ask if they stock or can get wiring suitable for the tube side wiring of fluorescent lights.
 
Examine the existing wiring for any insulation damage.. If any is evident, then just renew it.
 
Good luck!!
 
Bodge99.

 

[Nickski]

Thanks mate.
Got some if the twin and earth 1mm cable. But I haven't a clue about th next stage. I can see a wiring diagram on the ballast but I'm unclear about where to start. I'm confident I can work slowly and prepare the cable ends safely to put it together. Capsule I ask you for a little of your time to help me through please? I'll post a pic of the wiring diagram.
I

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
If you could post a picture of the ballast wiring schematic then I'll talk you through it..
 
Bodge99.

 

[Nickski]

ok here is the power in end
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and the business end
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thank you

 

[Nickski]

OK ill have a shot at this.....
14 and 13 are the end of bulb 1 and back to the terminal
12 same terminal side on fitting as 13 back to the terminal
 
9 and 10 at the end of bulb 2 back to the terminal
11 same terminal side on fitting as 10 back to the terminal
2 remaining ends of bulbs joined together.
?

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
You are just about there...
 
Just to clarify, at either end of the tube (you are right, more correctly called "bulbs".. I prefer "tubes")  there is a filament (heater).
These are electrically isolated from each other when the tube is off. If you look at the image http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POND-UVC-LAMP-BULB-TUBE-LIGHT-UV-FILTER-4W-6W-8W-15W-16W-25W-30W-55W-WATT-SPARE-/160739579662?pt=UK_HomeGarden_Garden_PondsWaterFeatures_UK&var=&hash=item256cd3570e then you'll see what the filaments actually look like. UV tubes don't have the internal glass tube coating, so you can actually see the physical construction.
 
Referring to your ballast schematic, terminals 12,13 and 14 go to one tube. Terminals 9, 10 and 11 go to the other tube.
There is also a further wire which connects one pin on one tube to the another pin on the other tube. This wire has no connection to the ballast.
 
So.. Pick one tube and call it "tube A" (the other will be "tube B"). Connect 12 and 13 to one end of "tube A". Either way round.. 
Now connect 9 to one of the pins at the other end of "tube A". Either pin..
 
Leave the other pin for now.
 
Connect 9 and 10 to one end of "tube B".
Connect 11 to one of the pins on the other end of "tube B".
 
You will be left with two unconnected pins... one on each tube. Now simply connect these two together.
 
If you would like some futher tips or any further info then just ask here.. not a problem at all.
 
Bodge99.

 

[Nickski]

Thanks bodge, looking at it now, it seems like we have out wires crossed (see what I did there!) with numbers. Or am I going mad mate?
Hope you are having a good weekend

 

[bodge99]

Hello,
 
There are various physical ways to connect up the two tubes which are electrically equivalent..
 
Just as long as one tube end is connected to [12,link to other tube] and [13,14] to the other end.
The other tube to [9,10] to one end, with [11,link to other tube] on the other end, then all will be well.
 
The wiring to a particular tube end can be reversed (i.e. either pin), as can the tube ends.. (e.g. it doesn't matter which end of the tube 13 and 14 go to, as long as 12 and the link wire go to the other end...).
 
Good luck!
 
Bodge99.

 

[Nickski]

Thanks mate. Just finished putting it together. I really appreciate the help. I've found some great stuff to stick the bar back together again.