I'd suspect OTS (Old Tank Syndrome) if it's just new fish you are loosing. Can you try and get numerical water test results for Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate and pH, the latter two being most important, please? If you don't have your own test kit to obtain these, a good LFS (Local Fish Shop) should be able to test the water for you

Make sure they use liquid drop test kits, and that they give you numerical results, don't accept "it's fine" as it often isn't when they say that

Also, Strips are as accurate as guessing your own numerical results
Could you run us through what maintenance you do, how and when please?
I'd probably stop adding new fish until you can sus out what's killing them

We can't rule out the current stock getting to them either, as you have a few "large" fish in that list that would be capable of eating the fish you added if they were adults, I.E, the Pink Kissing Gourami, that get between one and three feet, depending on the exact species, and the Banded Goruami, again dependant on the exact species. What size are the afore mentioned fish at ATM? The Silver Shark may eat the Neons if large, but shouldn't be able to get at the RTBS or Tiger Barbs
One you have the tank sorted, you need to add to the numbers of some of the species you already have. The Clown Loach, Silver Shark, Tiger Barb and Corrydorus all need bigger groups of at least four to be happy, and being alone may explain the existing Silver Sharks aggression

For future reference, you can only have one Red Tailed Black Shark in a tank as adults, unless you have a 12X6X6ft tank, as they would have a 6ft cubed territory in the wild and would kill any other RTBS or similar looking fish that entered that territory unless that fish was ready to spawn with them, and even then, they'd only mix for spawning. It works in the LFS as they are all juveniles and pack densely in most instances. It can be OK
short-term in the home aquarium, but long-term that type of thing would become a blood-bath
All the best
Rabbut