First time testing my water...

rjbelles

New Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2021
Messages
8
Reaction score
4
Location
27526
Hi,

I just finished testing my aquarium water with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. I have had my 29 gallon tank for three weeks. I have a gourami, two small corys, one black molly, five tetras, three danios. My tank temperature is 78 degrees. Here are my test results:

Ph - 7.2
High Ph - 7.8
Ammonia - .25ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm

I have no idea if these numbers are good or bad. Would someone kindly get back to me with an answer? Also, if any of the tests need supplements, please tell me what to get.

Thank you,

Richard Belles
 

NannaLou

Fishaholic
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Messages
560
Reaction score
432
Location
Chichester
Hi,

I just finished testing my aquarium water with the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. I have had my 29 gallon tank for three weeks. I have a gourami, two small corys, one black molly, five tetras, three danios. My tank temperature is 78 degrees. Here are my test results:

Ph - 7.2
High Ph - 7.8
Ammonia - .25ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - 0 ppm

I have no idea if these numbers are good or bad. Would someone kindly get back to me with an answer? Also, if any of the tests need supplements, please tell me what to get.

Thank you,

Richard Belles
Hello Richard, did you cycle your tank before adding fish..?
Ammonia and Nitrite need to be at zero ppm. So you need to do a water change to remove the ammonia reading. Make sure the water you are replacing is the same temperature and has been treated to remove chlorine and/or chloramphenicol.
EDIT: not sure how that final word became what it did! Should read chloramine.
 
Last edited:
OP
R

rjbelles

New Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2021
Messages
8
Reaction score
4
Location
27526
Hello Richard, did you cycle your tank before adding fish..?
Ammonia and Nitrite need to be at zero ppm. So you need to do a water change to remove the ammonia reading. Make sure the water you are replacing is the same temperature and has been treated to remove chlorine and/or chloramphenicol.
Thank you. Are the PH readings OK. Is there something I can add to the water to reduce the ammonia?
 

Slaphppy7

Fish Aficionado
Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
3,048
Reaction score
2,253
Location
SE Texas
Agree with the above, large WC, with a good conditioner, like Seachem Prime, or API Tap water conditioner....these will render the ammonia non-toxic for 24 hours, or so.

Test again in 24 hours. If ANY ammonia present, do another WC.

Do this daily until ammonia is 0 ppm.
 

Byron

Fish Guru
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
15,156
Reaction score
6,527
Location
CA
I concur with others, generally, but with a reservation. First, please answer their question about cycling, as this could be that issue. Ammonia at so low a level may well be due to chloramine in the source water; this is quite common, we have had a few threads about it. Do you know if your water authority adds chloramine with or in place of chlorine?

Are there live plants in the tank?

Use the regular pH test going forward, not the high pH test; as you can see, the results are different and this might lead to confusion and issues down the road.
 
OP
R

rjbelles

New Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2021
Messages
8
Reaction score
4
Location
27526
I concur with others, generally, but with a reservation. First, please answer their question about cycling, as this could be that issue. Ammonia at so low a level may well be due to chloramine in the source water; this is quite common, we have had a few threads about it. Do you know if your water authority adds chloramine with or in place of chlorine?

Are there live plants in the tank?

Use the regular pH test going forward, not the high pH test; as you can see, the results are different and this might lead to confusion and issues down the road.
Not sure about the chloramine in the source water. I have not cycled the water since I started it up three weeks ago.
 

Byron

Fish Guru
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
15,156
Reaction score
6,527
Location
CA
This is thus likely a cycling issue, and others have advised about water changes. I would also check with your water authority, probably on their website, to see what exactly they are adding.
 

NannaLou

Fishaholic
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Messages
560
Reaction score
432
Location
Chichester
Thank you. Are the PH readings OK. Is there something I can add to the water to reduce the ammonia?
I don’t understand the PH reading enough myself to answer that one I’m afraid. I don’t think they are ‘dangerous’ in the same way that Ammonia and Nitrites are…but different species of fish need different water types (hard/soft) and being in the wrong water hardness can have health implications.
Some one else will come along and explain this to you.

It sounds like you have fallen into,the group of us that find ourselves doing a “fish in cycle” and there will be a sticky on here somewhere giving you all of the details on how to do this.
 

Slaphppy7

Fish Aficionado
Joined
Jan 20, 2021
Messages
3,048
Reaction score
2,253
Location
SE Texas
Richard, most importantly, read this, and post any further questions you have after doing so: https://www.fishforums.net/threads/rescuing-a-fish-in-cycle-gone-wild-part-i.433769/

You will be doing a "fish-in" cycle, not the easiest or most recommended, but it's not hard to do, with a proper test kit, water conditioner, and by following the directions in the link above.

If you are able, and have a faucet nearby the tank that will accompany this tool, I HIGHLY recommend it...you will be doing many water changes during the cycle, then weekly ones after that...IMO, this (or ones like it) are a must-have piece of equipment for freshwater fish keeping: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/?tag=ff0d01-20
 
Last edited:

Avel1896

Fish Herder
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
1,204
Reaction score
479
Location
Nice
I have a gourami, two small corys, one black molly, five tetras, three danios
Ammonia apart ( must be undetactable, as nitrites) this is good for Molly, but not at all for others that are acid and soft water fishes : they should live in pH 6.5 to 7, GH and KH below 8. Didn't you check GH and KH ?

What are your tank measurements and volume ?

How do you filter, lighten it ?

Pics of tank would be helpfull.
 

The_Labyrinth

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
23
Reaction score
15
Location
USA
I'd ditch the black molly, as it is the main misfit here, to a friend or give back to the LFS and just shoot for 80F (although 78 is OK) and a pH of 6.8. The rest of the fish will be happier in that environment. And, what is your GH? It should be definitely be lower than 10 as well.
 

Avel1896

Fish Herder
Joined
Jan 5, 2021
Messages
1,204
Reaction score
479
Location
Nice
If you manage to :
- waterchange until ammonia and nitrite are zero and nitrates are below 15,
- add lots of natural plants including floatings ones,
- test regularly (once a week or every 10 days) pH, GH, KH, NH3, NO2, NO3,
- lower GH and KH (being respectively hardness and alkalinity) under 8 it should be ok.
 

Byron

Fish Guru
Joined
Feb 25, 2009
Messages
15,156
Reaction score
6,527
Location
CA
Before we start lowering GH or pH, which may not be necessary, we need to know these numbers. The pH is 7.2, but the GH has not yet been stated. @rjbelles can you find the GH (general or total hardness) in the data on the website of your local water authority? No point in buying a tester you may never use once we know this, as GH is relatively static. And it will give us a clue as to what the pH may do in future.
 

The_Labyrinth

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2021
Messages
23
Reaction score
15
Location
USA
GH is relatively static.
NOT. It depends if you add in driftwood, almond leaves, etc. Knowing the GH from your tap is a great starting point, but it is not the end-all-be-all for the actual aquarium water quality. GH can also be affected by just topping off due to evaporation, etc depending on the mineral content of the water so it is not really static in a small volume aquarium. Typically fish put up with a very wide range which is why this parameter is less important unless you are trying to breed.
 

Most reactions

Top