Excited And Clueless...need Help

poopsydrew

"CodeMonkey"
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Hey all,
i think i have some friends looking fro my post here but ill state it again. I am a newbie and currently have a 10 gallon, i know all the basics and cycling so dont worry...anyway...i got a call from my mom and she is going to be getting a 50 gallon tank for free, i was thinking about making it brackish but have no expericence doing it. I also have no idea what to add but i do want a community tank with plenty of cool looking fish (yet peaceful, if possible), anyway i would appreciate any suggestions on brackish water tanks and good community fish for them Thanks!! :good:
 
The most important things to focus on when starting a brackish-water community tank are:

1. Salinity Range - Brackish-water is a broad term that describes water that contains too much salt to be classified as freshwater yet too little to be called marine. Brackish-water species all have different salinity requirements which must be met to keep them happy. It's very important that all the fish you keep are suitable for the salinity range that you decide on.

2. Size & Social Behavior - A lot of commonly sold brackish-water fish get quite large and are happiest in groups of their own kind. Most brackish puffers would be suitable in your tank, but are best off kept as individuals w/o tankmates. Do a lot of research before you purchase your fish and you'll save yourself a lot of heartache. I'd say that most scats/monos/archers are out of the question.

You came to the right place for help. If you browse back into the archive you'll find a lot of very valuble information w/o having to ask too many questions.
 
David has made some good points above. But I'll add one thing about brackish water aquaria -- to some degree, the direction the tank will go depends a lot on how good your local aquarium shops are. Some shops (like Wildwoods) regularly get in oddball brackish water fish every month, so it's quite easy to get some really cool stuff. Other shops only sell brackish water fish rarely, usually accidentally.

Now, the big plus with brackish water aquaria is the chance to mix "ordinary" fish with oddballs. Because brackish water communities are made up of most marine fishes able to tolerate reduced salinities, the diversity is very different to freshwater habitats. Instead of barbs, characins, catfish, and cichlids being dominant, you see examples of otherwise marine groups, things like morays, puffers, flatfish, gobies, sleepers, pipefish, and halfbeaks, plus various perciform and scorpaeniform groups. You also get some examples of things traditionally thought of as freshwater fish but equally at home in brackish (and sometimes marine) waters such as killifish and livebearers.

There are two ways to take a brackish water tank really. One way is the low salinity brackish water tank at SG 1.003-1.005. This tank can have lots of plants and bogwood, and apart from the small amount of salt (10-20% normal marine salinity) looks and works like a freshwater tank. This sort of aquarium can include livebearers, halfbeaks, glassfish, figure-8 puffers, certain cichlids (e.g., orange chromides), certain catfish (e.g., some of the banjo and Mystus spp. catfish, plus a few plecs and the Hoplo catfish), bumblebee and knight gobies, spiny eels, and even a few loaches and barbs, notably horseface loaches, ticto barbs (Puntius ticto), and blackspot barbs (Puntius vittatus). Most of these fishes will get along, though some (like knight gobies and Mystus spp.) are predatory and will view small gobies and livebearers as food!

The other way to run a brackish tank is at a fairly high salinity, say SG 1.010-1.012 (around 50% normal seawater). This tank would be based around those species that migrate in and out the sea, and these fishes tend to be large and rather robust. Monos, scats, and archers are the classic species for these tanks, but you could also keep green spotted puffers, a few catfish (such as shark catfish and Mystus gulio), moray eels, certain cichlids (Sarotherodon melanotheron is my favourite brackish/marine cichlid), large sleeper gobies, waspfish, and violet gobies. With care, there are also some species sold as tropical marines that adapt well to these conditions, including some of the snappers, puffers, batfish, and a few inverts, notably blue-legged hermit crabs. Plants are generally not an option here because of the salinity level, and many brackish water species simply eat plants anyway so it isn't worth the bother. But you can make up for the lack of plants by using large rocks, artifical mangrove roots, seashells, and so on.

A 50 gallon tank gives you a lovely canvas to work with. I'd personally recommend opting for the small-fish, low-salinity option. Getting those species is generally easy, and you can use things like mollies or guppies to mature the filter without any problems at all. It would be easy to fill the tank with Java fern and other hardy plants to build up a nice tangle of vegetation, and then you could be reasonably safe keeping figure-8 pufferfish alongside other species knowing than the size of the tank plus all the hiding places would be keeping everyone happy.

Cheers, Neale
 
David has made some good points above. But I'll add one thing about brackish water aquaria -- to some degree, the direction the tank will go depends a lot on how good your local aquarium shops are. Some shops (like Wildwoods) regularly get in oddball brackish water fish every month, so it's quite easy to get some really cool stuff. Other shops only sell brackish water fish rarely, usually accidentally.

Now, the big plus with brackish water aquaria is the chance to mix "ordinary" fish with oddballs. Because brackish water communities are made up of most marine fishes able to tolerate reduced salinities, the diversity is very different to freshwater habitats. Instead of barbs, characins, catfish, and cichlids being dominant, you see examples of otherwise marine groups, things like morays, puffers, flatfish, gobies, sleepers, pipefish, and halfbeaks, plus various perciform and scorpaeniform groups. You also get some examples of things traditionally thought of as freshwater fish but equally at home in brackish (and sometimes marine) waters such as killifish and livebearers.

There are two ways to take a brackish water tank really. One way is the low salinity brackish water tank at SG 1.003-1.005. This tank can have lots of plants and bogwood, and apart from the small amount of salt (10-20% normal marine salinity) looks and works like a freshwater tank. This sort of aquarium can include livebearers, halfbeaks, glassfish, figure-8 puffers, certain cichlids (e.g., orange chromides), certain catfish (e.g., some of the banjo and Mystus spp. catfish, plus a few plecs and the Hoplo catfish), bumblebee and knight gobies, spiny eels, and even a few loaches and barbs, notably horseface loaches, ticto barbs (Puntius ticto), and blackspot barbs (Puntius vittatus). Most of these fishes will get along, though some (like knight gobies and Mystus spp.) are predatory and will view small gobies and livebearers as food!

The other way to run a brackish tank is at a fairly high salinity, say SG 1.010-1.012 (around 50% normal seawater). This tank would be based around those species that migrate in and out the sea, and these fishes tend to be large and rather robust. Monos, scats, and archers are the classic species for these tanks, but you could also keep green spotted puffers, a few catfish (such as shark catfish and Mystus gulio), moray eels, certain cichlids (Sarotherodon melanotheron is my favourite brackish/marine cichlid), large sleeper gobies, waspfish, and violet gobies. With care, there are also some species sold as tropical marines that adapt well to these conditions, including some of the snappers, puffers, batfish, and a few inverts, notably blue-legged hermit crabs. Plants are generally not an option here because of the salinity level, and many brackish water species simply eat plants anyway so it isn't worth the bother. But you can make up for the lack of plants by using large rocks, artifical mangrove roots, seashells, and so on.

A 50 gallon tank gives you a lovely canvas to work with. I'd personally recommend opting for the small-fish, low-salinity option. Getting those species is generally easy, and you can use things like mollies or guppies to mature the filter without any problems at all. It would be easy to fill the tank with Java fern and other hardy plants to build up a nice tangle of vegetation, and then you could be reasonably safe keeping figure-8 pufferfish alongside other species knowing than the size of the tank plus all the hiding places would be keeping everyone happy.

Cheers, Neale
Sorry it took me so long to get back to you neale. I have actually decided to wait until i feel a little more comfortable doing a brackis water tank. Not that i am lazy i am just still very new and this will be my second tank. I have to say you have helped me and others on many forums and you are extremely knowledgable and helpful and as a newbie i really appreciate you taking time to answer questios that i know must bore you to death! i am setting up a freshwater tank and my list is as follows:
6+ glass catfish
6+ boesmani rainbowfish
pair of german blue ram cichlids
butterfly fish
bristlenose pleco
moolight gourami
maybe some ottos or corys (I love corys!!)
amano shrimp

P.s. dont worry i will have the tank fully cycled before adding any fish and do the research before purchasing anything, thanks so much for your help! what do you think of my list?
 
Fine choice! Boesmani Rainbowfish are one of my absolute favorite freshwater aquarium fish.
Thanks dave!! I'm glad you like my list...I have 2 questions about ottos if thats ok...
1.what is the minimum number i should keep
2.I have heard that they supposedly can suck onto the sides of slower moving fish and cause injury to the fish such as discus fish...i was kinda worried if they would exhibit this behaviour toward my moonlight gourami i plant to get? is this even true?
3.would it be ok to keep both corys and ottos or do i not have enough room to keep at least 5 or 6 of them both?

thanks dave your a lifesaver!! :good:
 
1.what is the minimum number i should keep
They look best in groups of six or more, because they actually swim about in a school. When in smaller numbers they do their own thing and mostly you don't see them.
2.I have heard that they supposedly can suck onto the sides of slower moving fish and cause injury to the fish such as discus fish...i was kinda worried if they would exhibit this behaviour toward my moonlight gourami i plant to get? is this even true?
Yes it is true. Seen it in my tank, with Otocinclus attacking a large goby and causing much damage. I would only keep Otocinclus with small, fast fishes such as tetras and barbs. Never slow-moving cichlids, gouramis, etc.

Cheers, Neale
 
1.what is the minimum number i should keep
They look best in groups of six or more, because they actually swim about in a school. When in smaller numbers they do their own thing and mostly you don't see them.
2.I have heard that they supposedly can suck onto the sides of slower moving fish and cause injury to the fish such as discus fish...i was kinda worried if they would exhibit this behaviour toward my moonlight gourami i plant to get? is this even true?
Yes it is true. Seen it in my tank, with Otocinclus attacking a large goby and causing much damage. I would only keep Otocinclus with small, fast fishes such as tetras and barbs. Never slow-moving cichlids, gouramis, etc.

Cheers, Neale
Darn i guess ottos are out of the question since i plan on getting some gouramis. Oh well better that i know now than later. Thanks for the help neale and everyone else! :good:
 

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