I have had a disaster with my tank and hoping someone can help or offer advice for the future. I have a 90 litre tank. I did a water change at the weekend. I use RO water. I also added 4 Guppies. Before I added the water I noticed it was very cold, so I rang the Aquatics center who advised me to wait a few hours for it to warm up which I did. I added the water but noticed that when got to the bottom of the barrell that there was what looked like lupms of chalk (turned out to be the minerals). The water and fish were added Sat afternoon. Last night I noticed that the fish were all swimming to the top and shoaling where the filter(external) pumps the water back into the tank. A couple of fish were struggling at the bottom of the tank. When I woke up this morning the fish were dropping like flies. My 2 clown loaches were covered in white stuff, which the aquatics centre said was mucus. I did a water test I will give the reading this from this A.M. and reading on Friday in brackets. PH was 6 (7.6), High PH was 7.6 (8.4), Ammonia 1 (0) Nitrates .25 (0) and Nitrites 80(40). I changed the water as it was 4 weeks from the last change. Even now as I am typing I have lost another fish. The only other thing I did was to wash the filters from the pump in a bucket (clean) of the tank water to get rid of excess rubbish. Tank temp is fine. Any help would be greatley appreciated.
Disaster - Please Help Me Make Sense
- Thread starter WRG
- Start date
Immediate water change and increase aeration.
How many fish and which type are in the 90 litre.
If your ph changed rapidly it could be also phock and bad water quality.
White mucas can also be a sign of ph shock to bad water quality.
Do you mean the tank water was cold.
How long has the tank been set up.
How many fish and which type are in the 90 litre.
If your ph changed rapidly it could be also phock and bad water quality.
White mucas can also be a sign of ph shock to bad water quality.
Do you mean the tank water was cold.
How long has the tank been set up.
fatheadminnow
Fish Aficionado
Since this is a freshwater tank, there really is no need to use RO water unless you have a pH problem.
Also, you should be doing weekly water changes, not monthly water changes.
I would say whatever was in the RO water (the white stuff) is what made the fish start acting like they are.
Also, adding the 4 guppies my have been a bit much to add at one time. Even further the guppies could of brought in some sort of disease, but the likely hood of that effective all the fish in your tank in a couple of days in unlikely.
-FHM
Wilder, I think maybe the pH change was the effect of the RO water entering the tank?
What do you think?
-FHM
Also, you should be doing weekly water changes, not monthly water changes.
I would say whatever was in the RO water (the white stuff) is what made the fish start acting like they are.
Also, adding the 4 guppies my have been a bit much to add at one time. Even further the guppies could of brought in some sort of disease, but the likely hood of that effective all the fish in your tank in a couple of days in unlikely.
-FHM
Wilder, I think maybe the pH change was the effect of the RO water entering the tank?
What do you think?
-FHM
Fatheadminnow, it sounds like ph shock, bad water quality, even toxins.
If it was toxins would expect to see darting, erratic swimming, gasping, turning upside down.
I looks more like ph shock and bad water quality to me.
If it was toxins would expect to see darting, erratic swimming, gasping, turning upside down.
I looks more like ph shock and bad water quality to me.
Wilder you many thanks. The RO water was cold and not the tank water.
The tank has been set up for a year now and not really had a problem (apartfrom Guppies as previously posted) I have/had Neon Tetra (9) Harleqins (4) and guppies (7 after adding the new ones from Sat) and 2 clown Loaches. I have changed about 20% of the tank water with tap water (to try to increase the PH). I have also moved the water pump above the water level to add airation. I have also added an ammonia removal pack in the filter. The tank also has tropical plants in it. The Neon Tetra that died were bloated but the others that have died were not. As said the Clown Loaches were covered in White stuff and laying on their side gasping for air and the Harlequins just dropped.
The tank has been set up for a year now and not really had a problem (apartfrom Guppies as previously posted) I have/had Neon Tetra (9) Harleqins (4) and guppies (7 after adding the new ones from Sat) and 2 clown Loaches. I have changed about 20% of the tank water with tap water (to try to increase the PH). I have also moved the water pump above the water level to add airation. I have also added an ammonia removal pack in the filter. The tank also has tropical plants in it. The Neon Tetra that died were bloated but the others that have died were not. As said the Clown Loaches were covered in White stuff and laying on their side gasping for air and the Harlequins just dropped.
You need to return the ph back fast.
Here some info on ph shock. See if most of the symtoms match.
pH Shock
As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.
It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.
Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.<br /><br />A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock
Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production. Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only)If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.
Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!<br />PH SHOCK
Here some info on ph shock. See if most of the symtoms match.
pH Shock
As its name suggests this condition occurs when a fish is introduced to quickly into a new environment which has a very different pH from the one it came from, when the pH is adjusted to quickly and the fish have little or no time to adjust themselves, or when the pH is to far outside the fishes normal range.
It is very important that any change in water chemistry is made slowly and fish should never be exposed to changes of pH greater than 0.5 of one unit on the pH scale in either direction.
Avoidance is by far the best solution because in most cases the symptoms don't appear until the second or third day by which time the damage has been done and the fish will probably die.<br /><br />A fish suffering from this condition will show all the typical signs of shock
Lying on the bottom and paying little or no attention to its surroundings and ignoring potential threats.
It may even lay on its side or go upside down completely.
There could be other signs to, related to Acidosis and Alkalosis
Excessive mucus production. Rapid breathing.
Swollen abdomen. (Alkalosis only)If the condition is allowed to go on for one or two days then the chances of a successful remedy are greatly reduced because a lot of damage will have taken place. If the symptoms are spotted early enough there are a couple of things that will help.
Begin to return the pH to the original pH in steps of 0.4 of one unit on the pH scale and allow 3 hrs in between the adjustments. Make these adjustments until the pH is returned to a safe and satisfactory level.
Treat the tank with a broad spectrum anti-Bacteria/Fungus compound to prevent secondary infections of the Skin and Gills
Prevention is easy. A successful treatment isn't!<br />PH SHOCK
fatheadminnow
Fish Aficionado
I totally agree with you Wilder, that the quick change in pH was the cause of this.
As for the Ammonia pack, you do not want to keep that in your tank. If you are taking the ammonia away, then there is not going to be any ammonia left for the beneficial bacteria to use. In which case, the beneficial bacteria will begin to die off.
So, water changes are the best bet right now, however, if the pH of the RO water has a lower pH of what the pH was, then do not use RO water. You really should not have been using it in the first place.
Instead, I would check the pH of your tap water, and if that is closer to the pH of what your tank was, then use that along with a good water conditioner.
-FHM
Freshwater tank not sure what you mean. I have only ever used RO water. Went down this route as I was advised that it keeps the water is crystal clear and it keeps it easier to keep fish as the minerals add back all the nutrients addusive to keeping tropical fish and it controls the PH levels. The white stuff was the minerals. I think that the white stuff was the minerals but they did not dissolve. As I understand it the minerals adjust the PH levels as well as adding back the required nutrients. The reason I chose this route is that I live in a very hard water area. I normally change every 2 weeks but being snowed in I have not been able to do it, but check the water every week. I have never had a problem like this. In fact a couple of month ago when I took water in to be tested it was described as being great waste cycle. I personally feel the RO water has caused this. I e-mailed my brother who has a lovely tank and never any problems and he advised that I should not use RO but normal tap water and use EASY Balance. What do you all think. How do I move forward from here. Will a shift in the water affect the tropical plants that I have in the tank. The plants are produced by Tropica and I am not sure if they can only be used with RO water. I do still have some fish left and if they survive I want to keep them. My kids are gutted, beleive it or not they had names for all of them. The aquatics centre accept no responsibility. I was almost in tears this morning. May sound sad but it was more out of frustration over the TLC and building I have done over the last year. Once again many thanks to you all and all your advice.
fatheadminnow. You posted your response as I was replying. I will follow your advice and check the PH of my tap water. I have made a water change today using tapwater this afternoon. Looking at my tank now the fish are swimming around the tank but not sure what I will see in the morning. Wilder thanks for your concern and I will certainly let you now how it goes.
how do I transit from RO to tapwater without killing any fish left?
how do I transit from RO to tapwater without killing any fish left?
fatheadminnow
Fish Aficionado
Freshwater as opposed to saltwater.
It really is up to you if you want to keep going with RO water.
I also have RO water readily available to me, however I choose to was tap water, why?
Tap water contains trace minerals that are very beneficial for fish. These trace minerals are found in abundance in nature where rivers, streams and lakes are constantly being flourished with these minerals and trace nutrients.
Over time in a tank, these trace minerals and nutrients are used up by the fish, and the plants in your case, and the only way to "re-stock" them is through weekly water changes, which are found in tap water.
Also, when using tap water a water conditioner, in most cases, is a must. Once again a good water conditioner also has trace beneficial minerals that are good for fish.
RO water was mainly used for Discus, where Discus need water with a pH near neutral (7.0). However, as time has moved on, most Discus keepers have moved to Tap water after finding out how beneficial it is to the fish.
Saltwater, however; keepers use RO water because RO water is a good basis, so-to-speak, as it is neutral in pretty much every way, and the trace minerals come with the type of salt one decides to use.
-FHM
It really is up to you if you want to keep going with RO water.
I also have RO water readily available to me, however I choose to was tap water, why?
Tap water contains trace minerals that are very beneficial for fish. These trace minerals are found in abundance in nature where rivers, streams and lakes are constantly being flourished with these minerals and trace nutrients.
Over time in a tank, these trace minerals and nutrients are used up by the fish, and the plants in your case, and the only way to "re-stock" them is through weekly water changes, which are found in tap water.
Also, when using tap water a water conditioner, in most cases, is a must. Once again a good water conditioner also has trace beneficial minerals that are good for fish.
RO water was mainly used for Discus, where Discus need water with a pH near neutral (7.0). However, as time has moved on, most Discus keepers have moved to Tap water after finding out how beneficial it is to the fish.
Saltwater, however; keepers use RO water because RO water is a good basis, so-to-speak, as it is neutral in pretty much every way, and the trace minerals come with the type of salt one decides to use.
-FHM
fatheadminnow
Fish Aficionado
FHM. Thanks for that. Not using a water conditioner as not been using tap water. Will follow your advice and will get a water conditioner to add as well. How many changes do you think I will need to make to take out the RO water?
fatheadminnow
Fish Aficionado
It will probably take a couple months for the transition to complete.
Get a water conditioner asap!
If you are using city water, then odds are you have chlorine in your tap water which deadly to fish and the beneficial bacteria. A water conditioner will remove chlorine and other harmful elements from tap water.
-FHM
Get a water conditioner asap!
If you are using city water, then odds are you have chlorine in your tap water which deadly to fish and the beneficial bacteria. A water conditioner will remove chlorine and other harmful elements from tap water.
-FHM
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