Cycling

[garrym1983]

Im new to the tropical fish game and frankly the amount of different information on one topic is mind boggling and more frustrating and confusing than the actual cycle itself. I have a 98litre tank, planted, 6 zebra danios, 3 albino corys and 4 neon tetras. The tank is 5 days into its cycling process and im looking to find out the best method, along with the best water treatment, water changing frequency and products to use to best get my tank, my fish and myself through this process!! I wont say what im using at present and the methods im using at present so that i can get an accurate account of peoples own opinions and experiences.

Thanks.

 

[CezzaXV]

Well, you've already got fish so it's a fish-in cycle. I'm not aware that there are different methods available when you've got fish, but someone may prove me wrong?

 

[garrym1983]

Have you got any advice on how often i should water change, and the treatments you use.

 

[The Taffy Apple]

Have you got any advice on how often i should water change, and the treatments you use.

Evening Garry.. what you need to get yourself is a water test kit.. API master test kit (liquid test kit) are widely considered to be one of the best, roughly £25 on Ebay
As was stated by Cezza, you are now in a 'fish-in' cycle, which will need daily water testing AND possibly daily water changes to keep your fish healthy and alive.
There are plenty of beginner articles on fish-in cycles to be found within this forum, so maybe your best bet is to read up and digest then take it one step at a time... you've found a great forum here, they got me sorted out in no time, whilst continually learning along the way!

All the best with it,

Terry.
Port Talbot.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

+1 to the test kit. You need one that has ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. This will tell you how often and how big a water change you need to do.


If the ammonia goes up to 0.25ppm or more, you need to do a huge water change. If it is noticeably not zero, but not to the level of 0.25ppm, you need to do a smaller W/C. Remember, one BIG water change is far more effective than a series of smaller ones.


For example: let's say your water is at 0.5ppm.

A 90% water change would bring the ammonia level down to 0.05ppm, which is a good spot for it to be during a fish-in cycle.

On the other hand, a 50% water change would only lower it to 0.25ppm, which is still not good. Another 50% would lower it to 0.125%, and a 3rd 50% water change would bring it down to 0.0625%. So, you would have to change 150% of your tank volume, to bring your level close to the same level as a single 90% change.


Best products: Quality dechlorinator that detoxifies ammonia as well. Prime would be the top one. Stress Coat+ would be #2. Any other product is completely unnecessary. Water changes and plenty of them is the way to go. When doing that, a quality dechlorinator is the most important thing (plus a method to remove the water, of course). Make sure when refilling the tank to temp match the water and fill it slowly.

 

[garrym1983]

Thanks for the replys so far. i use the api kits, and i have prime.

questions i have about a 90% change if my ammonia levels got to the levels required for such a water change would be:

a) how does the beneficial bacteria develop if nearly all the water is removed
b) how do i get 80 odd litres of tap water near to the temperature of the water removed??!!

 

[The Taffy Apple]

Thanks for the replys so far. i use the api kits, and i have prime.

questions i have about a 90% change if my ammonia levels got to the levels required for such a water change would be:

a) how does the beneficial bacteria develop if nearly all the water is removed
b) how do i get 80 odd litres of tap water near to the temperature of the water removed??!!

a/ Within minutes of you adding your fresh water, you current stock will be poo-ing and pee-ing, continuously adding to your overall Ammonia content, therefore 'feeding' your beneficial bacteria.
b/ I use a 20L builders bucket under my mixer tap. One hand feels the temperature coming out the tap, whilst the other is in the bucket, monitoring the final temp of my 20L bucket load. keep an eye on your thermometer/s after each amount you put back in.... too warm? Add more cold...

As you are in a fish-in cycle, believe me, you will become an expert at large water changes in no time at all! Also, do you have a siphon of some sort? Always easier to use one when getting the old water out of the tank.

Terry.

 

[fluttermoth]

The bacteria live in the filter, not loose in the water column. The filter will still cycle with a level of ammonia that's too small to register on our tests, so you should aim to keep the ammonia as close to zero as is possible for the safety of the fish.

It's perfectly safe to use a mix of hot and cold tap water to get the right temperature.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

a) bacteria will be fine. As long as it remains wet, no big deal. A common misconception about cycling is that the bacteria need tons of ammonia to reproduce. Ultimately, that is false. First, the fish will continually produce ammonia, so there will be food for the bacteria and the fish are producing more than the bacteria can handle, which is why a water change is needed. Second, the bacteria you are trying to cultivate prefer very low concentrations of ammonia, not high levels. So, keeping the levels are low as possible is not just good for your fish, but also good for the bacteria.

b) The easiest way is to add some hot water to the cold water in your tap. Run the water with your tank thermometer in it until you get the proper temp (it doesn't have to be perfect, but within a degree or two. The further it is from the current temp, the slower you want to add it.

 

[garrym1983]

In fairness I've got the gear and I'm slowly gaining an idea!!

 

[The Taffy Apple]

Type in 'tropical fish tank cleaning' into youtube... it's how i learnt how to my initial few water changes, the rest i picked up myself or learnt on here.



Terry.