Convert basic gravel tank to planted soil aquarium?

[meadoughlark]

I have been planning to start a planted nano tank after being inspired by videos online, but I already have an established 13 gallon aquarium (see picture) which I'm wondering if I could just improve instead. The tank has 10 neon tetras, 1 zebra danio (I know the danio should be in a school of danios - he is the sole immortal survivor of a danio tank that went awry and weirdly enough he schools with the tetras, who follow him around like he's the big boss) and 1 corydoras (I know he should also should be with other corydoras... made a few beginner mistakes). The filter is a cheap air-lift style submersible which I feel I should upgrade.Current plants and fish seem happy and healthy and I've had no issues for a long time.

I think I have a good look going with the driftwood and plants but I'm starting to get bored with it and I think the gravel and plant bases look ugly. I want a more natural 'filled in' foresty look with more plants. I live in a part of Thailand where the local fish shops only sell the plants I currently have (which I think are anubias?) but have recently found a way to get more plant species delivered overnight. I'm thinking a carpet of mini hair grass would look amazing. My questions are:

Could mini hair grass grow directly on gravel if I provide liquid fertiliser? The pebbles range in size from a couple of mm to 1cm, which I think is too big for their little roots to establish.

If not, would adding a layer of ADA Amazonia soil on top of the gravel murder the beneficial bacteria in the gravel and ruin my cycle? Would I be able to reduce the effect of ammonia leach from the new soil with water changes or would my fish be in big trouble regardless?

If neither of these options are viable, do you have any other suggestions for sprucing up this tank? Or just leave this tank alone and start a proper planted tank from the ground up?

Cheers!

 

[Byron]

There are a couple things here to recognize. Before getting into those...I think this is quite lovely now, though I could suggest a few "tweaks" that might make all the difference to your perceptions of the aquarium. I'll start with these, then mention possible changes.

When you have a largish bit of hardscape, like this single chunk of wood, it is better to off-centre it. Move it left or right, so the end on whichever side touches the end wall of the tank at the substrate. This will create a perception of a much larger space and you won't really notice the squareness of the tank. Adding a smaller piece of wood on the resulting open side is another trick of enlarging the visual space, and you might try that, or not. Given the filter in the back left corner, I would try to move the large chunk of wood to the left so it basically hides the filter and bubbles. This too gives a perception of more space. The idea is to avoid any item/object like the filter drawing your attention.

Now to possible changes. First, I always caution aquarists about soil-substrate tanks. I've never used ADA Amazonia substrate, but these are not necessary to grow healthy plants, and some of them can cause serious fish issues. If you want to change the substrate, basic dark-tone sand would work best. I use play sand in a dark grey mix. Avoid white at all cost as this is hard on fish and can be glaring to look at. I'll leave sand for the moment.

You mention carpet plants...the issue with these is light. Your Anubias seems to be doing very well, and this is a low-light plant. Adding plants that need more intense lighting is immediately going to be problematical as either the present lighting unit will need to be replaced, or the higher-light requiring plants will melt and die. There are some substrate plants that can do well under less light, I use pygmy chain swords. Not "carpet" as such, but effective.

The other thing here is the lack of floating plants. Your neons would certainly appreciate a cover of floating plants, and they will be more colourful. This will reduce the light more of course, but the Anubias should be fine with this. If you did increase the lighting to attempt carpet plants, you then have the issue of literally blinding the fish; fish have a significant light sensitivity, what Baensch in an article on cardinals and similar forest fish called a light phobia. Dimmer light, which can usually be achieved with floating plants and not too bright a light, will work better.

If you want to keep the present lighting you could change the substrate to sand, and try some additional plants like the chain swords, or crypts (also low-moderate light), and add some floating plants like Water Sprite. Living in Thailand, this species is native so you might find it outside. I would add a few more cories, notwithstanding the tank size, but this would be better. Sand will benefit them too. The lone Zebra is fine under thee circumstances.

Hope this helps, but feel free to question.

 

[meadoughlark]

Hi @Byron thank you so much for the detailed reply.Turns out I can get pygmy chain sword so I'm going to try adding a layer of sand and planting some of that in the foreground.

It doesn't look like I'll be able to get water sprite from either of my suppliers and I wouldn't know where to start looking outside. I can get this water wisteria though - http://www.mainamfarm.com/en/products/aquatic-plants/hygrophila-difformis/ - would that be a suitable alternative floating plant?

If you see anything else on this website which you think would be suitable for my aquarium please let me know, this is my 'local shop' http://www.mainamfarm.com/en/product-category/aquatic-plants/

I don't use liquid fertiliser at all at the moment because the plants seem alright without it, do you think I would need to start using it once I add these extra plants?

Regarding moving the big piece of driftwood to the left, I think that's a great idea. Do you think it would look better with the taller end at the far left or flipped round so the short side is on the left? I can't decide.

So you think my tank size could handle a few more cories?

Thanks again, sorry if my questions seem overly specific

 

[Byron]

I can get this water wisteria though - http://www.mainamfarm.com/en/products/aquatic-plants/hygrophila-difformis/ - would that be a suitable alternative floating plant?

Yes, try this. Planted in the substrate it will need very good light which as I said previously may not be the case here, but you can also let it float. Separate the stems (remove the wool and elastic at the cut end of the stems) and see how it does.

I don't use liquid fertiliser at all at the moment because the plants seem alright without it, do you think I would need to start using it once I add these extra plants?

Probably. Nutrients come from fish/fish food and water changes, and while this may be sufficient now with few plants and slow-growing plants which naturally require less, it may not bee sufficient with faster-growing plants. I don't know the GH of the water but if it is on the very soft side it will not have the "hard" minerals like calcium and magnesium. A complete liquid fertilizer is best, and you use very little. Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive Supplement if you can get it, or Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti are two I know of that are complete.

Regarding moving the big piece of driftwood to the left, I think that's a great idea. Do you think it would look better with the taller end at the far left or flipped round so the short side is on the left? I can't decide.

Going from the photo, I would move the wood half way to the left side so the tallest bit is in front of the filter stem behind it. At the substrate there is a bit of this wood or it may be something else (the plant is attached to this it seems), move this with it so it will touch the end glass.

So you think my tank size could handle a few more cories?

Yes. Corydoras are shoaling fish that must have a group, and a lone cory is going to be stressed. He is programmed to "expect" a group, and adding more will actually bee of more benefit than not for the biological system because the fish will be less stressed and this means less impact on the system. Here five or six cories if the cory is one of the normal-sized species; the "dwarf" species could have more. Given the limitations, you are best to stay with the same species whatever it is now.

As for other plants from the linked site...the Echinodorus tenellus should work (this is the old taxonomy but same plant as Helanthium tenellum); maybe one of the smaller crypts (crypts can be fussy and melt so I tend not to bother but some have good luck);