Complete Newbie

lawless23456

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hello everyone

this is my first post, and let me say this about myself i am an absolute complete newbie, the only fish i've kept before is goldfish. so my first question (which i'm sure will be the first of many questions so please forgive me) is it better for a newbie to have a Species Tank or Community tank? and i'm guessing that you can't mix from the two? i.e. can't have community fish in a with species fish? i don't have a tank or any fish yet i'm just in the planning stage and learning stage before i feel confident to look after fish

thanks

lawless
 
If a species has a peaceful temperment then theres no reason not to put them in a community tank :good:

A species tank is usually because the fish are too aggressive for a community or they have special requirements.

Id recommend a community tank for yourself, with some nice schooling fish such as zebra danios etc. Of course it all depends on what size tank you will be wanting. The bigger it is the more options there are! :drool:

Have a look at the fish profiles and see what you like the look of. Any questions just ask and make sure to read up about cycling! the most boring part of fishkeeping but necessary to do :sad:

Welcome to the forum :D
 
i will be getting a fairly large tank at least 50 gallons as i want a lot of fish eventually and i've heard if you have a larger tank it is easier to control the water conditions?
 
I'd say a community tank is a lot more interesting (no offense to anyone who'd disagree!!)

Although as many others would tell you, research what fish you like. See who's compatible with who, who eats what, who requires the what temp, water conditions, etc. I rushed into it, screwed everything up and wasted a lot of money replacing fish! :S

This link of links should be of great use to you :D

Beginner Resouce Center - http://www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=88643

Hope this helps!

i will be getting a fairly large tank at least 50 gallons as i want a lot of fish eventually and i've heard if you have a larger tank it is easier to control the water conditions?

They're definately a lot easier to clean that is. Mine's only a 10 gal and as it's quite heavily planted it's a right pain in the backside getting around with the gravel cleaner! lol! :S
 
Also, there are a lot of different sorts of community tanks. For example you might hear people talking about a Lake Malawi community. This is referring to a tank full of the cichlids from Lake Malawi in Africa, which are aggressive, territorial, relatively large and require specialist water chemistry. Obviously you wouldn't include these fish in a 'normal' community tank.

One term you'll hear a lot is 'general community'. If a fish is 'suitable for the general community' that usually means that if you put it in your average 25 gallon home tank with a bunch of other fish, fed it on flake food and kept the water clean, it would be healthy and relatively happy. 'General community' fish include most of the common ones you will see for sale, such as most livebearers, most tetras, danios, rasboras, most catfish and most rainbows. The reason these fish are so popular is that you CAN just chuck them in a tank with almost anything else and expect them to be okay.

Also, if a fish is NOT suitable for the general community this does not necessarily mean it's hard to keep. There is nothing difficult about keeping the charming livebearer Heterandria formosa - but adults are only an inch long, so if you put it with many general community fish they will snack on it. Bumblebee gobies and mollies are also easy fish to keep, but will not thrive in fresh water (they require brackish conditions). Sometimes unsuitable fish are very big or downright predatory. Research any fish before you buy it.

You may also hear stuff about 'larger community aquarium' and 'smaller community aquarium'. A smaller community may be a tank of any size from about 15 gallons up, but is filled with small and totally peaceful fish such as small tetras, small livebearers and rasboras. A larger community requires a bigger tank, but can be just as peaceful. It is comprised of larger species such as rainbowfish and congo tetras, and may include some species that are territorial or would eat anything small (like your neon tetras and dwarf platys). For example, a smaller community aquarium in a 50 gal might include schools of neons, zebra danios, small corydoras, harlequin rasboras, a few platys and a peaceful gourami as a 'feature fish'. A larger community might include a school of congo tetras, a school of rainbowfish, a few smallish plecs, kribensis or angelfish, etc.

So basically a community tank is any aquarium where you mix up different species of fish that do not naturally occur in the same ecosystem (like fish from Asia, Africa and South America in the same tank). A biotype aquarium is a tank where there are different sorts of fish but all from the same part of the world - like an Amazon biotype might include several different species of tetra. A species tank is a tank where only one species is included, usually because it has special needs.
 
Its a wise and lucky choice to begin your research early, without even owning any equipment yet! You are correct that there is an advantage to having a tank of fairly large size for a beginner. Larger water volumes are more forgiving. They can't change water parameters as fast and thus give beginners more time to recognize and react to a problem. This is true of course, only up to a point (debatable what size that point is.. 75G?) because past this point the labor of maintenance builds "beyond easy" and other problems can creep in, such as too much depth for your reach.. other odd things like that.

By planning prior to owning, you can discuss pros and cons of actual tanks and all the bits of equipment. There are members who will have a feel for some of the more important things to watch out for in those larger tanks and how they should be equiped.

My own feeling is that for the beginner, filtration is perhaps the most core topic to give learning priority to, as it will be important right away even if you can't get all the other things resolved. In the tank volume range you are considering, people often employ two larger external cannister filters, which has the nice effect of maintaining stability with one filter when the other has been cleaned on an alternating schedule.

The three main filter functions are mechanical filtration, chemical filtration and biological filtration. Mechanical filtration is the obvious one that is all most beginners think is going on at all. The water is forced through smaller and smaller places until more and smaller particles are trapped and can't return to the tank. Tightness of fit and correct placement and media order are important considerations for mechanical filtration and it is the most dependent on the expertise of the filter designer.

Chemical and biological filtration are both often misunderstood. Chemical filtration is most commonly optional and dependent on individual situations. We usually recommend that beginners here at TFF do not use chemical filtration unless they've discussed it here and the members feel it would be useful. Carbon (aka activiated charcoal) is a common chemical filtration media and is useful most often for three specific things: removing medications, removing tannins (yellow tea-stain effect from bogwood etc.) and removal of organic odors in special cases. Carbon adsorbs these things for about 3 days only and then is ready for removal and trashing. So carbon is good on your shelf, but not on a regular basis in your filter.

Biological filtration is the most important and one of the most fascinating and unusual aspects of the hobby. This is the bit of science that can take even old-timer fish hobbyists by surprise. As it starts out, a filter with media has an initial mechanical capability but is really just raw hardware and not fully functional in the hobbyist sense. What's required is some knowledge and skill that's been clarified and improved in recent years. It turns out that two specific bacterial species must be coaxed to grow in the filter and these two types of bacteria will form a working biofilter that chemically transforms the tank water.

Fish not only give off CO2, like other animals, when they respire, they also give off a significant amount of ammonia, directly from their gills! This, combined with fish waste, excess food and plant debris will combine to pollute the tank with ammonia in very short order. After conditioning, there will quickly be millions of heterotrophic bacteria in the water which will rapidly perform the conversion of the animal and plant debris and the excess food into ammonia. Ammonia, constantly washed away in the huge water volumes of nature, is a deadly poison when it hangs around and causes permanent gill damage and death in relatively small amounts.

The first bacteria we grow (we'll call them ammonia oxidizing bacteria or "A-Bacs" for short) are an odd species that cling to surfaces and live where there is abundant flow of oxygen and ammonia and they "eat" and convert that ammonia to a different compound called nitrite(NO2) which is released back to the water. The A-Bacs are not heterotrophs, they are an example of a group called chemolithoautotrophs (literally "Eaters of Rock" because, as autotrophs, they don't eat other organic things like the rest of us animals, instead they literally are the beginning of the natural cycles that help convert "Rock", calcium for instance, into more organic things.)

Unfortunately for us, nitrite(NO2) is -also- a deadly poison to fish, as it "suffocates" their cells by means of displacing oxygen from its important positioning on the fish blood hemoglobin molecules. The first cells to suffer are the nervous system cells and even small amounts of NO2 will cause permanent nerve damage to fish, often not very detectable from outer symptoms at first.

This is where the second bacterial species we grow comes in to save the day. The second species are nitrogen oxidizing bacteria (we often call the "N-Bacs" for short here in the "New to the Hobby" section on TFF) which "eat" the NO2 and covert it into nitrate(NO3), which is not a particularly nice thing to have in your tank but is relatively harmless compared to the previous two substances and thus we can let it hang around until we perform our weekly water change, which will dilute it.

So this thing called "Fishless Cycling", which the members and the pinned articles are going to tell you all about is the new method devised in the 1980's and improved over and over to grow these two species in the filter and be sure you have a working biofilter prior to the introduction of any fish. The two species form "biofilms", sticky films on any surface they can attach to, which, as it turns out, also help to put the final touch of effectiveness on the -mechanical- media, by making it stickier and thus better at trapping particles of all sorts. But the main bio function is the most important, effecting the amazing and rapid transformation of ammonia and nitrite(NO2) into the more harmless nitrate(NO3) and doing this on a constant basis, hour after hour while you go about your life away from the tank.

Sorry.. know this is the "long version" of a story but perhaps you'll turn back to it for some of your questions, so enjoy!

~~waterdrop~~ :lol:
 

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