Cleaning Tank And Ammonia Level

bluecharm7

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Okay I upgraded my aquarium from a 30 gallon to a 60 gallon about 2 months ago. The new tank did not get the proper time to cycle because I had to move the fish into the new tank immediately. So the ammonia is at .25ppm or lower. All of my fish look great. I am using the old filter with established bacteria and a new filter because I needed a bigger one. My question is how long will it take until the ammonia level drops down to zero? Is it always going to be zero or will it spike up to the .25ppm right before the water change?

Now my second question is how often should I do the routine mantainance on my tank? I am doing water changes every sat. at about 20-25%. I use the siphon to clean the bottom. But I have a planted tank so I don't feel that I get every part clean. How often should I siphon the bottom of the tank? Will siphoning suck up the good bacteria? How often should I clean my filters? Every week, month? Also should I do more frequent water changes, like 2x a week versus the one. I feel there is mixed info out there and I have read different things and I just want to make sure I am doing everthing right.

Sorry if this is already posted I couldn't find an answer to my question.
 
Okay I upgraded my aquarium from a 30 gallon to a 60 gallon about 2 months ago. The new tank did not get the proper time to cycle because I had to move the fish into the new tank immediately. So the ammonia is at .25ppm or lower. All of my fish look great. I am using the old filter with established bacteria and a new filter because I needed a bigger one. My question is how long will it take until the ammonia level drops down to zero? Is it always going to be zero or will it spike up to the .25ppm right before the water change?

Now my second question is how often should I do the routine mantainance on my tank? I am doing water changes every sat. at about 20-25%. I use the siphon to clean the bottom. But I have a planted tank so I don't feel that I get every part clean. How often should I siphon the bottom of the tank? Will siphoning suck up the good bacteria? How often should I clean my filters? Every week, month? Also should I do more frequent water changes, like 2x a week versus the one. I feel there is mixed info out there and I have read different things and I just want to make sure I am doing everthing right.

Sorry if this is already posted I couldn't find an answer to my question.

What filter are you running? Most of the bacteria used for converting the ammonia will live in the filter media i believe. How long this sort of thing takes depends on so many different things that it is really hard to give a time scale. If you have ammonia in the water then do quite large scale water changes maybe 50% 3 times a week and see if it settles down!
 
Ammonia should always be at 0. You have to do enough of a water change to get it down to 0. 20-25% isn't enough. With ammonia present, you should do up to 75% water change.

This is what I do each week

50% water change
Rinse filter media in a bucket of tank water
Gravel vac the gravel. I don't vac the areas that are planted, just where gravel is showing. I take care around rooted stem plants and just kind of hover over the ground cover plants. The plants use up the nutrients so I don't worry about it.
Scrape algae off glass
Wipe everything down
 
If you are running the filter from your old tank and have not added any more fish, your bacteria should be able to handle the bioload. I suspect that your ammonia readings are coming from your tap water. As long as you are using a dechlorinator that neutralizes ammonia you should be fine until your bacteria catch up to the new level.
 
I am running two power filters. They are both aqua clear filters one is a 50 gallon and the other a 70 gallon. So should I be doing the 50-70% water change weekly until the ammonia is 0 ppm and then switch to a 25% weekly or keep it at the 50% range?

If you are running the filter from your old tank and have not added any more fish, your bacteria should be able to handle the bioload. I suspect that your ammonia readings are coming from your tap water. As long as you are using a dechlorinator that neutralizes ammonia you should be fine until your bacteria catch up to the new level.
I haven't added any new fish to the tank. How long will it take roughly for the bacteria to catch up? Will the .25ppm of ammonia effect my fish?
 
Ammonia will have a negative impact on fish. The more you can minimize the exposure time, the better for you fish. Don't add any shrimp or other invertebrates(if you plan on it) until ammonia is at 0 consistently for at least 4 weeks. There is no exact time frame for how long it will take for the tank to be cycled. I can happen in 4 weeks or it can take more than 2 months. It's different for everyone. 50% water changes after it's at 0 every week for as long as the tank is running. Test the water daily and do water changes accordingly.
 
If you are running the filter from your old tank and have not added any more fish, your bacteria should be able to handle the bioload. I suspect that your ammonia readings are coming from your tap water. As long as you are using a dechlorinator that neutralizes ammonia you should be fine until your bacteria catch up to the new level.

As soon as I went home I tested the Ammonia level of my tap water. It is .25ppm. So what should I do to the tap water before putting it in the tank during water changes? The nitrites is 0ppm and the nitrates is at 0ppm. I am assuming that my tank is cycled then because the tap water has the ammonia and my nitrites have been 0 ppm for a while.
 
I would say your tank is cycled. I don't know what dechlorinator you use but Prime and and Tetra will both neutralize ammonia in your tap water so it is safe for fish for 24 to 36 hours. A cycled tank should be able to remove .25 ppm of ammonia in a couple of hours. So, check your levels a day after your water change. If the ammonia is gone you have nothing to worry about.
 
I would say your tank is cycled. I don't know what dechlorinator you use but Prime and and Tetra will both neutralize ammonia in your tap water so it is safe for fish for 24 to 36 hours. A cycled tank should be able to remove .25 ppm of ammonia in a couple of hours. So, check your levels a day after your water change. If the ammonia is gone you have nothing to worry about.
Thanks Randi-
I did a 40% water change just to be on the safe side. Before I did that I took a good look at the dechlorinator that I was using and it did not neutralize ammonia. I did't even realize. So I went out and bought some prime and used that for with my water change. I will check the water over the week to see what happens.
 
Prime and other products (bar zeolite) that claim to neutralise ammonia, don't, they shift the ammonia - ammonium equilibrium so that it favours the production of ammonium, ammonium is still toxic, but not as toxic, dependent on your test kit it may still register. If you're having a slight spike it'll only be a few days before the bacterial colony increases in size and it settles down.
 
Quite a lot of members find they have 0.25ppm or so ammonia in their tap water. I agree with the advice above - A good conditioner like Prime will help with the initial time period after a water change and a good mature biofilter will remove the 0.25ppm in a matter of hours. If your filter is never getting ammonia down to zero then it is not fully cycled yet.

A good general habit for people with ammonia coming in via tap water is to think in terms of smaller but more frequent water changes as a replacement for the normal advice you will hear on all sorts of matters here in the forum. When someone recommends such and so water percentage change, just think to yourself, ok, I need to maybe spit mine into a couple of smaller changes with some time in between. This is just a general thing. The normal guidelines that 0.25ppm ammonia is a good general safety max still hold and if your tap situation causes you to hit that for brief periods sometimes it won't be a terrible thing.

There are two large basic habits of general maintenance that we hope our beginners section provides to all who pass through here. The are the weekly substrate-clean-water-change and the "monthly" filter maintenance habit.

The weekly substrate-clean-water-change really is weekly, typically performed each weekend, but of couse any time works as long as it is weekly. The is a very tough thing to maintain over the years - we all understand that and we all slip with a fair frequency I'm sure but we still like to -try! For gravel substrates a gravel-cleaning-siphon is used to disturb the gravel (right down to the bottom of the tank, but be careful of the roots on live plants.) In your case it may be difficult to complete a thorough clean and still have the water change remain smaller because of the tap ammonia. In that case perhaps do a more shallow clean over a wider surface are as your first clean and perhaps you can do another deeper one on only a portion of substrate at a later or next clean. Always wipe down your interior glass (even if you don't see algae or any other problem yet) and gently clean other things.. all just prior to the gravel-clean siphon part of the work. This way a maximum of debris will go out with the water exiting water. Water changes are extremely important to tank maintenance because they are removing invisible mineral buildups, organics and other inorganics from the water (there are literally hundreds of things that we -don't- measure that build up in the water and NO3 is just the "canary in the coal mine" that we use as a flag to tell us we need to keep getting them out). They also remove algae spores and the fresh tap water coming in supplies calcium, magnesium and other trace minerals needed by both fish and plants.

The regular filter maintenance habit is also extremely important and we like to suggest monthly as a starting point for beginners just to put a number on it. But in fact there are better ways to determine the rhythm of your filter cleans: The best is to take note of the regular nitrate(NO3) test readings that should be accumulating in your aquarium notebook (you do have an aquarium notebook with daily diary, right? This is a basic of any good aquarist.) Anyway, in a healthy tank we often see nitrate(NO3) levels not exceeding 15 to 20ppm -above- whatever the tap nitrate level is (eg. 15-20ppm NO3 if you have no tap nitrate, or higher if you do) Often we see even lower levels than this and sometimes we see higher - the steady state is not so important - what -is- important is to note whether they are creeping up on you over time. That is a sign that more maintenance is needed and filter maintenance may indeed be the part that needs to get more frequent (because of course you are doing your weekly gravel routines, we assume.)

The actual steps of filter maintenance are spelled out in numerous of our documents in the Beginners Resource Center, tank water, not tap water, should always be used in rinsing your media and cleanings should be gentle to reasonable, not overly aggressive. You are just unclogging your media, not trying to make it "clean." Speaking of unclogging, any time one notices reduced flow, a filter cleaning should follow. Filters having significantly reduced flow is a serious problem as not only might the biofilter not be able to function efficiently, you might also begin to lose bacteria in a worst case.

~~waterdrop~~ (whew! :cool: )
 
Quite a lot of members find they have 0.25ppm or so ammonia in their tap water. I agree with the advice above - A good conditioner like Prime will help with the initial time period after a water change and a good mature biofilter will remove the 0.25ppm in a matter of hours. If your filter is never getting ammonia down to zero then it is not fully cycled yet.

A good general habit for people with ammonia coming in via tap water is to think in terms of smaller but more frequent water changes as a replacement for the normal advice you will hear on all sorts of matters here in the forum. When someone recommends such and so water percentage change, just think to yourself, ok, I need to maybe spit mine into a couple of smaller changes with some time in between. This is just a general thing. The normal guidelines that 0.25ppm ammonia is a good general safety max still hold and if your tap situation causes you to hit that for brief periods sometimes it won't be a terrible thing.

There are two large basic habits of general maintenance that we hope our beginners section provides to all who pass through here. The are the weekly substrate-clean-water-change and the "monthly" filter maintenance habit.

The weekly substrate-clean-water-change really is weekly, typically performed each weekend, but of couse any time works as long as it is weekly. The is a very tough thing to maintain over the years - we all understand that and we all slip with a fair frequency I'm sure but we still like to -try! For gravel substrates a gravel-cleaning-siphon is used to disturb the gravel (right down to the bottom of the tank, but be careful of the roots on live plants.) In your case it may be difficult to complete a thorough clean and still have the water change remain smaller because of the tap ammonia. In that case perhaps do a more shallow clean over a wider surface are as your first clean and perhaps you can do another deeper one on only a portion of substrate at a later or next clean. Always wipe down your interior glass (even if you don't see algae or any other problem yet) and gently clean other things.. all just prior to the gravel-clean siphon part of the work. This way a maximum of debris will go out with the water exiting water. Water changes are extremely important to tank maintenance because they are removing invisible mineral buildups, organics and other inorganics from the water (there are literally hundreds of things that we -don't- measure that build up in the water and NO3 is just the "canary in the coal mine" that we use as a flag to tell us we need to keep getting them out). They also remove algae spores and the fresh tap water coming in supplies calcium, magnesium and other trace minerals needed by both fish and plants.

The regular filter maintenance habit is also extremely important and we like to suggest monthly as a starting point for beginners just to put a number on it. But in fact there are better ways to determine the rhythm of your filter cleans: The best is to take note of the regular nitrate(NO3) test readings that should be accumulating in your aquarium notebook (you do have an aquarium notebook with daily diary, right? This is a basic of any good aquarist.) Anyway, in a healthy tank we often see nitrate(NO3) levels not exceeding 15 to 20ppm -above- whatever the tap nitrate level is (eg. 15-20ppm NO3 if you have no tap nitrate, or higher if you do) Often we see even lower levels than this and sometimes we see higher - the steady state is not so important - what -is- important is to note whether they are creeping up on you over time. That is a sign that more maintenance is needed and filter maintenance may indeed be the part that needs to get more frequent (because of course you are doing your weekly gravel routines, we assume.)

The actual steps of filter maintenance are spelled out in numerous of our documents in the Beginners Resource Center, tank water, not tap water, should always be used in rinsing your media and cleanings should be gentle to reasonable, not overly aggressive. You are just unclogging your media, not trying to make it "clean." Speaking of unclogging, any time one notices reduced flow, a filter cleaning should follow. Filters having significantly reduced flow is a serious problem as not only might the biofilter not be able to function efficiently, you might also begin to lose bacteria in a worst case.

~~waterdrop~~ (whew! :cool: )
Wow thanks waterdrop!!!
I have one more question regarding the filter maintance. How often should I be changing the media in the filter? I have a sponge, carbon and bio-orbs. A while back I had a mini cycle because I changed everything at once. Bad advice from a pet store. This happened back in november. I have been trying to clean the filters 2x a month. Because I am running two filters right now I rotate them. But I am hesitant on complete changing the media. I have changed the carbon filter every month but I don't know when to change the sponge or the bio-orbs. I have also heard conflicting advice. Some people say never change them because that is where the live bacteria are, other people say change them in a schedule every three months. What should I do.

Also unrelated. What does +1 mean?

Thanks for the help--the light bulb is starting to glow above my head:)
 
Last things first ... +1 just means that person agrees with the person who commented before them, like add one to the list of people who agree.

You shouldn't ever change your sponges, unless they start to disintegrate completely. You shouldn't be using carbon unless you're trying to get meds out of the water. And bio-orbs? Do you mean bio-wheels?

Yes, the bacteria live in the filter media. The only thing you should be doing with the filter media is rinsing in old tank water when you do water changes. Siphon out water from the tank into a bucket, rinse out the filter media in that water, then put back in the filter.

And never, ever change out all the media at once.

smile.gif
 
+1, lol.

Ideally, media can sometimes last a lifetime (this is why ceramics get such high marks from experienced hobbyists!) Nearly all the bacteria live on the surfaces of the media in the filter, because it is such a better supplier of ammonia and oxygen as the water flows through, much more so than the surfaces out in the tank (although they will contribute some too, especially after a tank has been in operation a long time.)

Anyway, agree with TOS (who is a movie star, lol?)

~~waterdrop~~
 

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