Chemical removal....

[BarryG]

Recently had a problem with green hair algae, never had it before. Tried all the obvious - reduce lighting duration and intensity, extra liquid CO2 etc etc
Have tried Interpet "Anti Hair Algae" with partial success but have also been recommended to try eSHa Protalon-707. Reading the leaflet it tells me that it is not good for snails (bonus) but makes no mention of shrimps. Does anyone know if it would affect my Amano shrimps - hate to lose them.

 

[Essjay]

If it kills snails it is likely to kill shrimps.

But I would not use a chemical to remove algae. It will just come back unless you sort out what's causing the algae to grow. And chemicals in a tank are not very good for fish.
Algae is usually caused by an imbalance between lighting and nutrients. Too much or too little light; the wrong light spectrum (lots of blue with little red encourages algae); too much or too little plant fertiliser.


To start with the basics:
How long are the lights on per day?
Is the tank planted, and if yes what type of plants - slow growing, fast growing etc?
How much and what brand fertiliser?

 

[GaryE]

Snails tend to be tougher than shrimp, so it seems likely to me (not having experimented) that the shrimp would have to be removed for the duration.

I would never, under any circumstances, use an algicide in a tank. I'll add one question to@Essjay's excellent post - where in the room is the tank, in relation to windows?

 

[seangee]

Agree with what has been said. Fix the cause and don't use chemicals. Personally I would never use liquid CO2 - its a poison. Assuming your light is OK you may want to try a liquid fertiliser, one that does not contain nitrate, such as Seachem Comprehensive or TNC Lite. Algae is more tolerant than plants and will thrive in conditions where plants struggle. Get the balance right and the plants will out compete the algae.

 

[BarryG]

If it kills snails it is likely to kill shrimps.

But I would not use a chemical to remove algae. It will just come back unless you sort out what's causing the algae to grow. And chemicals in a tank are not very good for fish.
Algae is usually caused by an imbalance between lighting and nutrients. Too much or too little light; the wrong light spectrum (lots of blue with little red encourages algae); too much or too little plant fertiliser.


To start with the basics:
How long are the lights on per day?
Is the tank planted, and if yes what type of plants - slow growing, fast growing etc?
How much and what brand fertiliser?

My thoughts exactly about snails and shrimps
Never suffered from algae before, but new juwel rio tank 125ltr and led lights - one tube 'day' and one 'nature'. Never used leds before and they seem very intense - originally on for 8 hrs a day but reduced to 5 for last couple of weeks.
Fairly well planted with valis, anubia, amazon swords and a few other unknowns - all growing well.
Fertiliser is 5ml Neutro T and 2ml Liquid CO2 per day - as per instructions. Plus Plant Tabs in the gravel.
Also just changed the 9000K Day led for their Colour one - hoping this might decrease the intensity but still allow plant growth.
Only feed once a day and not too much.

 

[BarryG]

Agree with what has been said. Fix the cause and don't use chemicals. Personally I would never use liquid CO2 - its a poison. Assuming your light is OK you may want to try a liquid fertiliser, one that does not contain nitrate, such as Seachem Comprehensive or TNC Lite. Algae is more tolerant than plants and will thrive in conditions where plants struggle. Get the balance right and the plants will out compete the algae.

Hi, please see my answer to Essjay above to save me retyping all info.
There seems to be two schools of thought on Liquid CO2 so jury's out on that one at the mo.

 

[BarryG]

Snails tend to be tougher than shrimp, so it seems likely to me (not having experimented) that the shrimp would have to be removed for the duration.

I would never, under any circumstances, use an algicide in a tank. I'll add one question to@Essjay's excellent post - where in the room is the tank, in relation to windows?

Hi, tank gets almost no natural daylight at all.

 

[Byron]

On the light, can you give us the spectrum data(Kelvin or CRI)? I concur the 9000K is more likely to cause problem algae as others mentioned. The duration is obviously important, it has to balance the nutrient availability so plants use it but not algae; but the initial intensity and spectrum have to be what the plants need as duration is not a substitute for intensity or spectrum issues.

Neutro T seems to be trace elements or micro nutrients, though the site does not say what exactly. Macro nutrients they say are not included, so these may be lacking in the aquarium but note I said may, not are. Before changing I would want to know just what each contains. As you are in the UK, I will say that nothing is likely to be better than TNC Lite.

As for so-called liquid carbon, it is a serious fish risk regardless of what any manufacturer says.

 

[TwoTankAmin]

I use Excel.

There are 3785.41 ml in ine US gallong. I add 3 ml of Excel per 10 gals of water. That means 3 ml in 37,854.10 or 1 ml/12,621 (I had to add the 3 ml of excel to the total). If the Excel were 100% glutaraldehyde that would be one thing. But I highly doubt that is the strength of Excel.

There are 3785.41 ml in ine US gallong. I add 3 ml of Excel per 10 gals of water. That means 3 ml in 37,854.10 or 1 ml/12,621 (I had to add the 3 ml of excel to the total). If the Excel were 100% glutaraldehyde that would be one thing. But I highly doubt that is the strength of Excel

What is a glutaraldehyde used for?

Glutaraldehyde is a colorless glass-like crystal that is usually in a 2% to 50% water solution. It is used for cold sterilization of dental and medical equipment and as a preservative, biocide, hardener, and tanning agent.
Glutaraldehyde - Hazardous Substance Fact Sheet - NJ.gov

My bet is that the stength of what is in Excel is pretty diluted. It is also likley somewhat modified from pure Glut. but this is a guess and who knows if that makes it less potentially dangerous. But we we are talking about here is a pretty low concentration.

Next, we have a lot of anecdotal evidence in the form of this product being used for a few decades in what is likely a fair number of tanks. I have been using in most of my planted tanks after weekly water changes now for about 20 years. My fish appear healthy, they mostly live longer than average life expectancies and I rarely get diseases etc. I keeps and breed some rare exepensive fish which are quite prolific and not deforemed. Poeple who get them have them spawn as well.

I do not overdose Excel ever. I do not use it as an algaecide. Fertilizers of all kinds are diluted before going into a tank and then gadually with refilling. Finally, from the time I add the Excel it is being used up by the plants. so the ceoncentration is decling steadily between applications.

What I cannot say os that here is nothing living which we might keep in a tank that will not have a problem with Excel. I have not kept anywhere near close to that many different fish to say this.

I do not begrudge anybody for not wanting to use Excel or a similar product, that is their decision. But I also feel there are two sides to this and my experience comes down on the side of safe to use properly. I should also mention that I have also done a pressurized co2 tank and never used Excel there.

 

[Ellie11]

I got rid of algae with big water changes, up to 75% once or twice daily and by reducing light. The tank was by the window and I covered it partially with a plastic blue shower curtain liner that blocked some light

 

[seangee]

Recently had a problem with green hair algae, never had it before. Tried all the obvious - reduce lighting duration and intensity, extra liquid CO2 etc etc

Not sure if that should be interpreted as never had it before in this tank or never had it before in other tanks, or whether this is an established tank. If it is an established tank then ask yourself what has changed. If you stick to the same routine then the likely answer is the lights. Flourescant tubes need to be replaced every year. The idea that LEDs last forever is unfortunatley not true. I have replaced 2 LED units this year, one was producing too much red and the other was just not producing enough light. In another tank i replaced the LEDs about 3 years ago. In that case my issue was BGA, supposedly a nightmare to get rid of. I did nothing else and it cleared.

I can't say that is your problem, any number of things could be causing an imbalance - but we cannot assume that lighting is constant over time.

 

[sharkweek178]

It's not always excess light. Overfeeding can put excess nutrients in the water and cause algae.
I was getting some green algae on the sand in my aquarium. I noticed that it was occurring in the area that I drop my fish food. I cut back on the food a little and it went away.

 

[Naughts]

It was the daylight bulb causing the algae, I have the same issue with Juwel tanks. I think Juwel try to provide lights that can be used for Marine tanks to grow corals and freshwater tanks; but it is too intense in freshwater and algae's take hold. The nature bulbs are fine. The problem should subside now you have swapped out the daylight bulb.