I am dosing liquid c02 or liquid C, AKA EasyLife Liquid Carbon. I am dosing it according to the instructions given on the bottle which state 1ml per 50 litres can be applied in tanks containing not that many plants; 2ml per 50 litres for heavily planted tanks.[/auote]
tanks containing 'not many plants' does not mean tanks with 3 plants. It means something with a relatively low plantmass in comparison to a heavily planted tank.
This is a heavily planted tank below. For a relatively lower planted tank then divide this by 2. You see the point I am making now?
I am dosing it so that the plants have carbon to convert into oxygen? lol
you laugh as if you think I don't understand photosynthesis. You think I don't understand what made you think you needed CO2. I won't bite though, I'll just explain.
There is enough CO2 in every tank in the world (with very few exceptions) for 3 plants already naturally due to the gaseous exchange at the surface which is already bring O in alongside it. There is an equilibrium. A natural level. Also the substrate will adda little from rotting down organics which get through the substrate out of sight and also a minimal amount from the fish.
How do you think I can grow plantmass as above without CO2 addition by any means of human intervention. I do not add liquid nor pressurised nor yeast. It is the natural equilibrium C. I have used all methods of injection and know the results. Doesn't mean I need it though.
I have done and it didn't answer the question I asked regarding whether a drop-checker is capable of measuring the amount of liquid C in the water. I'm sorry for confusing everyone in calling it liquid c02.
It doesn't answer the question because it is a CO2 drop checker and therefore does not measure C, therefore it doesn't need to answer any question on liquid rather than gas related queries by the nature of what it is.
It measures gaseous exchange. It is filled with a known reference 4dKH which when mixed with a few drops of Ph solution is known to show different colours when there are different amounts of CO2 in the tank water. How does it work? The reference solution is seperated from the tank water by air. The air is trapped between the reference solution and the tank water. Through the same gaseous exchange you get at the water surface gas leaves the tank water and enters the sir space. Similarly it exits the airspace and goes into the solution. It works both ways. Therefore it works with gas not liquid. However you don't need the liquid C or pressurised due to the natural CO2 in the water which is more than plentiful for your plants.
No, one species of fish (Dwarf Neon Rainbwofish) succumed to gill/body flukes prior to using the plant fertilizers (including the liquid C) so it's likely that it was just stress caused by transportation or something the LFS did that was perceived as stressful. Indeed, post number 4 (by myself) already states one of the DNR died when liquid C was not being dosed.
Indeed but all the fish will have gill flukes. Most fish have these sort of things and can deal quite happily with it. It is when they are stressed that they have to concetrate on other things and (to simplify) their immune system has to become a lower priority.
Yes some fish may have succumbed from the stress of transport or new tank or any other reasons however by putting in Gluteraldeyde when there are not enough plants to consume it you were causing the fish some stress and therefore you can be making the fish concentrate on breathing rather than living a normal life, thus the gill flukes take their chance.
parasites are like algae. They are often easily 'handled' in a healthy tank but when things aren't ideal they seize the moment.
Two T5 lights came with the aquarium and no light will be generated unless there are 2 x T5 bulbs in full working order installed. The unit containing the lights is stuck to the aquarium glass.. not supposed to be removed and sold.
This is a problem with the new Fluvals and Juwels. Pandering to the myths of high light. They have adapted from the low light setups they used to have to a higher light setup as people were always talking about higher light needs for plants, however we are talking these days of not needing anywhere near the amount of light people thought back then. A common fault with many manufacturers. They follow myths, often feed them theirselves because it sells product. Then the failure due to the myth sells more products (cures. lol) You should be OK but just clean algae off when it is there. treat your tank as an non planted tank.
The PH of the tank is around 7.8. Initially it is 7.4 after a 20% water change because the tap water has a PH of 7.4. It takes about 2-3 days to rise to 7.8.
No, not the case. The PH rises in the tank due to the carbonic acid leaving the tap water after 2-3 days.
You are trying to say that your tank water is 7.8 due to carbonic acid. Then when you change 20% it goes down to the same as the tap water? Is the carbonic acid only in the 20% you remove? How do you remove all the 'reason for the Ph rise' by only changing 20%. This makes no sense at all.
I'm lost with your last statement but it doesn't seem very plausible to me. I will leave that to science people to puzzle over. Does carboniuc acid leave the tank water? How does it do that? Anyway I am no science guru so can't really comment there.
There is a lot of CO2 in fresh tap water. A high level and pressurised. Did you take a cup and test some immediately and some a couple of hours later? That was not for my enjoyment. It was a lesson for you to see the change. CO2 pulls the Ph down. When it gasses off the Ph rises to a natural level. 2 hours!!!
I would expect straight away to see a lower tap reading and then after 2 hours a higher tap reading i.e. 7.4 immediate from the tap and 7.8 after 2 hours. That does sound familiar
Anyway you have the info. You have the answers what you choose to do based on the info is up to you. We can only try to help not force so we have done all we can
AC
