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BTT,

With the high levels of light you have and minimal plant mass, you could run in to algae problems pretty quickly. In my opinion, you should either go for 75% of substrate coverage with fast growers, or control the lighting at lower levels for the duration.

Dave.

Thanks for the tip Dave. Its an Arcadia Luminaire with 2 switches (2 tubes connected to each switch), so i could run it with just 1 switch on for now (2 tubes = 108W). Would that be ok in your opinion until i get some more plant coverage?

Cheers :good:

BTT
 
I would stick with two tubes for the duration, if I was you. For a tank this size, you will need proportionally less light to make it high light, as opposed to a 60l for instance.

With the Vallisneria sp at the back and the E. tennellus at the front you are in danger of "field in front of wall syndrome". I would add a transition from the carpet plants to to the tall grass background. Something like a large investment in Rotala sp green would achieve this if you kept it pruned to the right height.

The Rotala would also give a large mass of fast growing weeds that would eventually allow you to with full lighting. Introduce the second pair of lamps slowly over a period of time, increasing the duration throughout this period too. A lot of high tech tanks fail due to a lack of fast growing biomass from the word go.

How are you measuring CO2?

Dave.
 
Thanks a lot Dave. Your input is much appreciated.

My plan is to fill the transitional space between the "field" and the "wall" with lots of Java Ferns, Anubias and Cryptocorynes tied to the driftwood, with a mass of Blyxa Japonica (and maybe Hygrophila Corymbosa) slightly below that, hopefully merging into the E. Tennelus.

I am measuring CO2 with the drop checker supplied with my Dennerle Pressurised CO2 kit.

BTT
 
Sounds like a good plan that may work. I do have my doubts about the slow growers and plant mass, though.

Are you using 4dKH solution in the drop checker (hope I`m not teaching you to suck eggs)?

Dave.
 
Sounds like a good plan that may work. I do have my doubts about the slow growers and plant mass, though.

Are you using 4dKH solution in the drop checker (hope I`m not teaching you to suck eggs)?

Dave.

I'm not sure what the solution is. It is supplied with the CO2 kit. It is blue in colour if that helps.

You mention your doubts about the slow growers and plant mass. Would it work if i pack the tank full (near 100% coverage) and use lots of H. Corymbosa or would the likes of Rotala Sp. be a better option?

I've got a picture in my head of what i want this tank to look like and i'm trying to stick to it as much as possible.

You may be teaching me to suck eggs, but its probably the best way. I've kept marines in the past, and IMO planted tanks are much more involved and difficult!

Cheers :good:

BTT
 
I'm not sure what the solution is. It is supplied with the CO2 kit. It is blue in colour if that helps.

As long as you use the indicator (bromo blue) with 4dKH, rather than with tank water.

I've got a picture in my head of what i want this tank to look like and i'm trying to stick to it as much as possible.

I find that the final look will be something that happens despite all my plans :lol: . Just try and coax it in the general direction you want.

You may be teaching me to suck eggs, but its probably the best way. I've kept marines in the past, and IMO planted tanks are much more involved and difficult!

I`ve never tried SW yet, but it looks more involved than planted, to me. Planted tanks are all about the light, and how you use and control it. This comes with experience, and will allow you to plant less densely and with slow growing plants of your own choice. I have seen what too much light and not enough experience can do, and it has driven many people away from planted tanks due to algae issues.

This was my first attempt just over a year ago, with 3.5WPG. You can see how heavily planted it was.

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Nowadays, I can plant up with a small plant mass because I have learnt how to control the light in the early days of the tank. This 54l tank was one day old when photographed, and seeded with mature filter media which helps a lot. Lighting was kept to 48W for six hours a day, before finally building up to 72W for ten hours.

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As long as you realise that light, low/unstable CO2 and ammonia are going to give you algae, and take steps accordingly, you should be alright. First and foremost control the light with the plant mass you have BTT.

Dave.
 
backtotropical - your tank looks so simple yet so effective. very little in it, but its filled out and placed nicely.
Wish my tank looked like that :(
Got algae all over my plants and wood :(
 
i have bowood in my tank and when i first put it in my tank the water went very brown.

so what i did was get a large pan and boil the wood for a few hours a couple of times that seemed to work. And i added some activated carbon also. :good:
 
Thanks so much for sharing your ongoing pictures. It's a real inspiration to a newbie like me. One day I may be brave and knowledgeable enough to do something similar. :D
 
I just added a shoal of 8 Corydoras Trilineatus today (sold to me as Corydoras Julii), so thought i'd post up some pics.

The Angels are getting big now, with the biggest approaching 6". The Whiptail Catfish has also reached adulthood and is approaching 7". It's amazing to think it was only around 1" when i bought it, not so long ago.

Corydoras Julii Trilineatus

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Corydoras Paleatus (Peppered Corys)

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Angels

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Whiptail (Sturisoma Festivum)

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Snakeskin Barbs (Puntius Rhomboocellatus) and Rummy Nose Tetras

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Full Tank Shots

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Cheers :good:

BTT
 

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