asoftuk
Fish Fanatic
I have noticed not a lot is said on one main piece of gardware I.E Lighting. I was confused by this at first but after a fair bit of reading and research on the subject i found this info quite helpfull.
Hope you find it informative.
Aquarium Lighting
This section will be dedicated to an important element of aquarium keeping; that of lighting. This area of aquarium care can be the difference between life and death in certain applications, and the difference in long-term aquarium success, and growth.
There are two important decisions to be made before the aquarium lights are to be purchased, and installed. One of which, of course, is the lighting requirement of the aquarium to be set-up, and the other one is cost.
Most aquariums do very well with standard fluorescent or incandescent lighting. However, with the advancement of technology, and the recent popularity of the saltwater reef, and freshwater live plant aquariums, lighting demands are high, and deciding on the proper type of lighting is key. One needs to check the lumen, and light spectrum requirements of the specimens or fauna to be kept. From here one can determine the lighting requirements of the aquarium.
Cost is a factor always, but especially when one is looking into a high-tech metal halide, compact fluorescent, or combination lighting systems. Make sure the lights are not only affordable now, but also in the future as bulbs will wear out, and need to be replaced. Check to see what the cost is of replacement bulbs, and how often the manufacturer recommends replacement. Most aquarium bulbs need to be changed about once a year to year and a half, as a generalization.
Always, always have the aquarium specimens in mind when purchasing aquarium lighting. Certain common aquarium inhabitants can easily be stressed and/or killed as a result of incorrect lighting decisions. Long-term stress and/or death may occur from slight misjudgments in certain aquarium applications. Specimens that photosynthesize, or feed off light, with perish for sure without the proper lighting conditions.
This section will discuss the four major types of aquarium lighting, and go into them in depth. There are other alternatives to aquarium lighting, such as natural sunlight. This is only an option though, for limited aquarium applications, and only recommended for advanced aquarists. However, I will be covering the major artificial light sources used in aquaria today.
Incandescent Lighting
Incandescent bulbs come in several colors and wattages. These are most commonly used on smaller aquarium applications. Consult your dealer for the proper size and color for your aquarium. Incandescent Lighting has been a popular form of aquarium lighting for decades. It is an inexpensive, versatile light source that is used in aquariums both big and small. This lighting offers many colors, and bulb strengths. As with other light sources, there are advantages and disadvantages to having this type of lighting, and it is only useful in certain aquarium applications.
One important note is that incandescent lights produce a significant amount of heat. This heat can be helpful, or detrimental, depending on how and where it is used. More often than not, it is detrimental. Smaller aquariums are especially vulnerable to these temperature changes.
Incandescent lights have been very popular with smaller type aquariums, mainly because many different types of incandescent bulbs will fit into a small aquarium hood, which is another reason this is a popular form of lighting. They have also been available to the hobby longer than the other types of lighting.
Some downfalls though, with this type of lighting is that the spectrum of the bulb is not consistent, bulb life is short, and they are inefficient at high lumen output in deeper aquaria.
Things to look for when shopping for an incandescent bulb would be color, wattage, connector type, and bulb life. Some bulbs offer a "spec sheet" in, or on the box for information about the bulb. Careful consideration needs to be taken in determining what the proper type of lighting is for your type of aquarium environment.
Because of the heat produced by this bulb, as with metal halide lighting, proper circulation and/or ventilation is desirable. An efficient heater is also mandatory in most applications because of the temperature changes, that can take place when the light turns off. This is especially the case in smaller aquariums, or aquariums with poor ventilation.
Fluorescent Lighting
Fluorescent light have been around for the last 50 years or so, and have become very popular and widely used in the last 20. Fluorescent lighting for aquarium use is probably the best all-around bulb for the aquarium, and has become a staple for aquarist's lighting needs.
The physiology of the light is actually fairly simple. The bulbs are basically long glass tubes which contain phosphor bits, and when an electrical current is run through the tube, these phosphors heat up and emit visible light. Different mixes of phosphors will give different properties of spectrum and intensity, resulting in different light colors.
Fluorescent bulbs come in three main forms. These are regular output (around 400 milliamps), high output (HO-around 800 milliamps), and very high output (VHO-around 1200 milliamps). The bulbs come in many different colors and wattages, and most bulbs run very cool, are inexpensive, and have a relatively long bulb life. They are also available in a broad spectrum of bulbs lengths.
Fixtures for these bulbs are broadly available, and come in many shapes and sizes. Most aquarium setups are sold as a tank/top/light combination. More often than not these light fixtures are fluorescent. Consider the specimens to be kept to decide the color (K temp) of bulb to be purchased.
Each bulb requires a ballast, which transforms energy from the electrical outlet to the bulb. These are rated in milliamps, so it's recommended that the ballast is matched to the milliamp ratings of the above bulbs.
Many fluorescent lighting hoods now offer electronic ballasts that can be operated by timers for automated lighting control. Consult the light manufacturer if this is an important option for you.
Some hobbyists, especially reef and freshwater plant aquarists, now use multiple fluorescent bulbs. Those who use the VHO fluorescent bulbs have great results in lumen production, and keep a low running heat. Another pro is that the bulbs are available in many color renditions, so it's easy to mix and match.
Mixing fluorescent bulbs with other lighting types (ie. metal halide, compact) will offer increase in overall lighting lumens, and color rendition of the total lighting system. Advanced hobbyists are known to mix bulbs and color temps to certain effects.
For most aquarists who intend on keeping tropical fish only, this is the lighting form recommend. It's also an energy efficient, safe form of lighting that should be popular in the aquarium hobby for years to come.
Compact Lighting
Compact lighting is now most often sold as complete aquarium hood packages, with ballast, fan, and plug often included. To simplify what compact lights are, is to call them fluorescent light on steroids. These powerful and energy-efficient lights are available at limited aquatic outlets, and offer a nice alternative to aquarium lighting. You could consider these lighting systems the best long-term economic value for high intensity lighting needs.
Compact fluorescent technology offers several distinct advantages over conventional fluorescent lighting.
These lights give considerably more light output, which in turn gives you a brighter tank.
Compact bulbs are smaller in size than the fluorescent tubes, and can put out much more light. The bulb life is long, too, with some manufactured bulbs lasting 2+ years. Longer bulb life saves money and time.
They consume less electricity than conventional fluorescent lighting, which makes them very efficient and economical.
Most compact fixtures are sold as a complete aquarium hood. Many of which are very attractive and multi-functional. However, retro-fit type systems, and do-it-yourself kits are also currently available.
Most power compact ballasts are timer-ready, and easily enclosed in a hood area, or underneath the aquarium. These are small and energy efficient.
These bulbs are also known for their depth penetration. The average aquarist probably doesn't know this, but with every inch of aquarium water that light has to penetrate, significant intensity is diminished. Most conventional fluorescent bulbs are dramatically effected by this. The compact lighting sources have tremendous efficancy and great reach.
For high lumen, and full spectrum lighting needs, some people mix and match the compact lights with metal halide, or fluorescent bulbs. This gives an effect matched by no other type of lighting, except of course, sunlight. The effects of this combination on saltwater reef aquariums is especially notable.
Most bulbs are sold from 28 to 96 watts per bulb, and offer many color renditions. Always keep the specimens in mind when choosing wattages and colors.
Metal Halide Lighting
Metal halide lighting offers a beautiful and intensive lighting source for the aquarium. This form of lighting has become popular in the aquarium hobby, especially by the reef or plant enthusiasts. They produce a truly "sun like" effect on the water, and will create a dancing, rippling reflection of light in the tank unmatched by any other current aquarium lighting.
There are many options to consider when metal halide lighting will be purchased. Keeping in mind what will be kept in the aquarium first, you then need to decide how bright the bulb should be, and what color light you desire from the bulb.
The metal halide bulb is now sold in many different wattages, and temperatures. The most common wattages found include 50, 150,175, 250, and 400 watt bulbs. The wattage basically will determine the brightness of the bulb.
There are also a variety of temperatures to choose from. The common choices 4500, 5500, 6500, 10,000, 120,000, 15,000 and 20,000K bulbs. The K represents degrees Kelvin. The lower the degree K, the whiter or more yellow the lamp appears, the higher, the more blue the lighting appears. Many freshwater plant enthusiasts prefer a lower Kelvin bulb (around the 5500-6500 K range) for freshwater plants. Saltwater reef hobbyists use bulbs in the more blue range (10,000-20,000 K range).
Metal halide lighting also puts out heat and will raise the Fahrenheit/Celcius temperature of the aquarium water. Care needs to be taken that the aquarium is in a well ventilated room. Some tanks, especially reef aquariums require a chiller unit to cool the water, especially the aquaria with strict temperature parameters.
The lights come in many different forms as well, some include, pendants, independent bulb hoods, ventilated hoods, combination (fluorescent, compact, halide) hoods, hi-tech hoods, retro kits, and other do-it-yourself type kits.
A ballast may be required to run your lights. The ballasts convert the electrical energy into bulb energy. Some systems come with their own ballast, some require the separate purchase. There are many good ballasts available. Electronic ballasts are the most efficient, and versatile. However they are more expensive than the former tar style ballasts.
Hope you find it informative.
Aquarium Lighting
This section will be dedicated to an important element of aquarium keeping; that of lighting. This area of aquarium care can be the difference between life and death in certain applications, and the difference in long-term aquarium success, and growth.
There are two important decisions to be made before the aquarium lights are to be purchased, and installed. One of which, of course, is the lighting requirement of the aquarium to be set-up, and the other one is cost.
Most aquariums do very well with standard fluorescent or incandescent lighting. However, with the advancement of technology, and the recent popularity of the saltwater reef, and freshwater live plant aquariums, lighting demands are high, and deciding on the proper type of lighting is key. One needs to check the lumen, and light spectrum requirements of the specimens or fauna to be kept. From here one can determine the lighting requirements of the aquarium.
Cost is a factor always, but especially when one is looking into a high-tech metal halide, compact fluorescent, or combination lighting systems. Make sure the lights are not only affordable now, but also in the future as bulbs will wear out, and need to be replaced. Check to see what the cost is of replacement bulbs, and how often the manufacturer recommends replacement. Most aquarium bulbs need to be changed about once a year to year and a half, as a generalization.
Always, always have the aquarium specimens in mind when purchasing aquarium lighting. Certain common aquarium inhabitants can easily be stressed and/or killed as a result of incorrect lighting decisions. Long-term stress and/or death may occur from slight misjudgments in certain aquarium applications. Specimens that photosynthesize, or feed off light, with perish for sure without the proper lighting conditions.
This section will discuss the four major types of aquarium lighting, and go into them in depth. There are other alternatives to aquarium lighting, such as natural sunlight. This is only an option though, for limited aquarium applications, and only recommended for advanced aquarists. However, I will be covering the major artificial light sources used in aquaria today.
Incandescent Lighting
Incandescent bulbs come in several colors and wattages. These are most commonly used on smaller aquarium applications. Consult your dealer for the proper size and color for your aquarium. Incandescent Lighting has been a popular form of aquarium lighting for decades. It is an inexpensive, versatile light source that is used in aquariums both big and small. This lighting offers many colors, and bulb strengths. As with other light sources, there are advantages and disadvantages to having this type of lighting, and it is only useful in certain aquarium applications.
One important note is that incandescent lights produce a significant amount of heat. This heat can be helpful, or detrimental, depending on how and where it is used. More often than not, it is detrimental. Smaller aquariums are especially vulnerable to these temperature changes.
Incandescent lights have been very popular with smaller type aquariums, mainly because many different types of incandescent bulbs will fit into a small aquarium hood, which is another reason this is a popular form of lighting. They have also been available to the hobby longer than the other types of lighting.
Some downfalls though, with this type of lighting is that the spectrum of the bulb is not consistent, bulb life is short, and they are inefficient at high lumen output in deeper aquaria.
Things to look for when shopping for an incandescent bulb would be color, wattage, connector type, and bulb life. Some bulbs offer a "spec sheet" in, or on the box for information about the bulb. Careful consideration needs to be taken in determining what the proper type of lighting is for your type of aquarium environment.
Because of the heat produced by this bulb, as with metal halide lighting, proper circulation and/or ventilation is desirable. An efficient heater is also mandatory in most applications because of the temperature changes, that can take place when the light turns off. This is especially the case in smaller aquariums, or aquariums with poor ventilation.
Fluorescent Lighting
Fluorescent light have been around for the last 50 years or so, and have become very popular and widely used in the last 20. Fluorescent lighting for aquarium use is probably the best all-around bulb for the aquarium, and has become a staple for aquarist's lighting needs.
The physiology of the light is actually fairly simple. The bulbs are basically long glass tubes which contain phosphor bits, and when an electrical current is run through the tube, these phosphors heat up and emit visible light. Different mixes of phosphors will give different properties of spectrum and intensity, resulting in different light colors.
Fluorescent bulbs come in three main forms. These are regular output (around 400 milliamps), high output (HO-around 800 milliamps), and very high output (VHO-around 1200 milliamps). The bulbs come in many different colors and wattages, and most bulbs run very cool, are inexpensive, and have a relatively long bulb life. They are also available in a broad spectrum of bulbs lengths.
Fixtures for these bulbs are broadly available, and come in many shapes and sizes. Most aquarium setups are sold as a tank/top/light combination. More often than not these light fixtures are fluorescent. Consider the specimens to be kept to decide the color (K temp) of bulb to be purchased.
Each bulb requires a ballast, which transforms energy from the electrical outlet to the bulb. These are rated in milliamps, so it's recommended that the ballast is matched to the milliamp ratings of the above bulbs.
Many fluorescent lighting hoods now offer electronic ballasts that can be operated by timers for automated lighting control. Consult the light manufacturer if this is an important option for you.
Some hobbyists, especially reef and freshwater plant aquarists, now use multiple fluorescent bulbs. Those who use the VHO fluorescent bulbs have great results in lumen production, and keep a low running heat. Another pro is that the bulbs are available in many color renditions, so it's easy to mix and match.
Mixing fluorescent bulbs with other lighting types (ie. metal halide, compact) will offer increase in overall lighting lumens, and color rendition of the total lighting system. Advanced hobbyists are known to mix bulbs and color temps to certain effects.
For most aquarists who intend on keeping tropical fish only, this is the lighting form recommend. It's also an energy efficient, safe form of lighting that should be popular in the aquarium hobby for years to come.
Compact Lighting
Compact lighting is now most often sold as complete aquarium hood packages, with ballast, fan, and plug often included. To simplify what compact lights are, is to call them fluorescent light on steroids. These powerful and energy-efficient lights are available at limited aquatic outlets, and offer a nice alternative to aquarium lighting. You could consider these lighting systems the best long-term economic value for high intensity lighting needs.
Compact fluorescent technology offers several distinct advantages over conventional fluorescent lighting.
These lights give considerably more light output, which in turn gives you a brighter tank.
Compact bulbs are smaller in size than the fluorescent tubes, and can put out much more light. The bulb life is long, too, with some manufactured bulbs lasting 2+ years. Longer bulb life saves money and time.
They consume less electricity than conventional fluorescent lighting, which makes them very efficient and economical.
Most compact fixtures are sold as a complete aquarium hood. Many of which are very attractive and multi-functional. However, retro-fit type systems, and do-it-yourself kits are also currently available.
Most power compact ballasts are timer-ready, and easily enclosed in a hood area, or underneath the aquarium. These are small and energy efficient.
These bulbs are also known for their depth penetration. The average aquarist probably doesn't know this, but with every inch of aquarium water that light has to penetrate, significant intensity is diminished. Most conventional fluorescent bulbs are dramatically effected by this. The compact lighting sources have tremendous efficancy and great reach.
For high lumen, and full spectrum lighting needs, some people mix and match the compact lights with metal halide, or fluorescent bulbs. This gives an effect matched by no other type of lighting, except of course, sunlight. The effects of this combination on saltwater reef aquariums is especially notable.
Most bulbs are sold from 28 to 96 watts per bulb, and offer many color renditions. Always keep the specimens in mind when choosing wattages and colors.
Metal Halide Lighting
Metal halide lighting offers a beautiful and intensive lighting source for the aquarium. This form of lighting has become popular in the aquarium hobby, especially by the reef or plant enthusiasts. They produce a truly "sun like" effect on the water, and will create a dancing, rippling reflection of light in the tank unmatched by any other current aquarium lighting.
There are many options to consider when metal halide lighting will be purchased. Keeping in mind what will be kept in the aquarium first, you then need to decide how bright the bulb should be, and what color light you desire from the bulb.
The metal halide bulb is now sold in many different wattages, and temperatures. The most common wattages found include 50, 150,175, 250, and 400 watt bulbs. The wattage basically will determine the brightness of the bulb.
There are also a variety of temperatures to choose from. The common choices 4500, 5500, 6500, 10,000, 120,000, 15,000 and 20,000K bulbs. The K represents degrees Kelvin. The lower the degree K, the whiter or more yellow the lamp appears, the higher, the more blue the lighting appears. Many freshwater plant enthusiasts prefer a lower Kelvin bulb (around the 5500-6500 K range) for freshwater plants. Saltwater reef hobbyists use bulbs in the more blue range (10,000-20,000 K range).
Metal halide lighting also puts out heat and will raise the Fahrenheit/Celcius temperature of the aquarium water. Care needs to be taken that the aquarium is in a well ventilated room. Some tanks, especially reef aquariums require a chiller unit to cool the water, especially the aquaria with strict temperature parameters.
The lights come in many different forms as well, some include, pendants, independent bulb hoods, ventilated hoods, combination (fluorescent, compact, halide) hoods, hi-tech hoods, retro kits, and other do-it-yourself type kits.
A ballast may be required to run your lights. The ballasts convert the electrical energy into bulb energy. Some systems come with their own ballast, some require the separate purchase. There are many good ballasts available. Electronic ballasts are the most efficient, and versatile. However they are more expensive than the former tar style ballasts.
