Any Ideas For Low Tech, Nitrate Removing Plants...

[N0body Of The Goat]

I'm getting concerned that my tank with the heaviest bioload, namely Nelly's old 540l, must be producing a fair bit of nitrate per week. At the same time, however, this tank has the lowest concentration of live plants (just a small bunch of Java Fern and two Anubias barteri nana)... So nothing is going to significantly absorb nitrates except my weekly ~15-20% water changes.

• Water temp is set to 22C; kH ~11 and gH ~14; pH ~8.2
• Water flow is ~1000lph from Eheim 2078, ~2000lph from Fluval FX5, the Magnum8 is no longer operational after concerns it may be too powerful (12500lph) for some of the fish in there, namely Humphead Glassfish / Denisons Barb / Leopard Bushfish / African Butterfly [but he is being moved anyway, not convinced he is eating enough])
• Lighting is temporarily provided by 48W S.A.D. lamp, compact fluorescent bulbs, until store can replace the Arcadia double controller with a new magnetic ballast version coming out soon and then it will be 72W of T8

Do any plants come to mind that could noticeably use excess nitrate, but withstand the conditions above?

 

[lljdma06]

I'm getting concerned that my tank with the haviest bioload, namely Nelly's old 540l, much be producing a fair bit of nitrate per week. At the same time, however, this tank has the lowest concentration of live plants... So nothing is going to significantly absorb nitrates except my weekly ~15-20% water changes.

• Water temp is set to 22C; kH ~11 and gH ~14; pH ~8.2
• Water flow is ~1000lph from Eheim 2078, ~2000lph from Fluval FX5, the Magnum8 is no longer operational after concerns it may be too powerful (12500lph) for some of the fish in there, namely Humphead Glassfish / Denisons Barb / Leopard Bushfish / African Butterfly [but he is being moved anyway, not convinced he is eating enough])
• Lighting is temporarily provided by 48W S.A.D. lamp, compact fluorescent bulbs, until store can replace the Arcadia double controller with a new magnetic ballast version coming out soon and then it will be 72W of T8

Do any plants come to mind that could noticeably use excess nitrate, but withstand the conditions above?

I'd recommend crypts. lots of them... C. Spiralis, especially. With low-light it's a weed, at least I found that it grows pretty fast. It's a rather large crypt too, so it will provide coverage. I've got it in my 36g.

 

[Wills]

I'm sure there are others more experienced in plants than me. But I use Moss balls for this same reason - though they are becoming increasingly short lived due to my Nicaraguan eating them.....

Wills

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

Blimey, I was half-expecting no possibilities, yet alone two! Thanks guys

 

[Ben M]

hi, floating plants are supposed to be good nitrate removers. i found dwarf water lettuce did well in low tech.

 

[N0body Of The Goat]

"Voo" sent me enough Phyllanthus Fluitans to sink a battleship weeks ago (I ended up giving a load to staff at Aquajardin!), but it needs high intensity lighting and does not like current. As a nitrate remover it is doing great in my Rio240 and so-so in the Korrall60, but I fear it would simply rot and add to nitrate problems in the 540!

Hmm, dwarf water lettuce, I shall look that one up too, thanks!

 

[KittyKat]

Floaters are generally best (might get munched), Java moss and Crypts, Elodea and Hornwort if you have a steady supply from someone's pond and like unblocking your filter. Also normally hard to eat/destroy plants include Thai onions and Anubias spp.

 

[stevereade]

Huge clump of Hornwort.

 

[SuperColey1]

I'm sure there are others more experienced in plants than me. But I use Moss balls for this same reason - though they are becoming increasingly short lived due to my Nicaraguan eating them.....

This a myth I'm afraid. Moss balls i.e. Marimo are actually algae balls. algae consumes minute amounts of nutrient in comparison to 'higher plants' and that is why it is so hard to eradicate.

There are versions called moss balls which actually are moss but even still moss doesn't consume much.

Anyone who buys marimo algae balls with the intent of reducing nutrient is falling for the myth I'm afraid.

Basically if a plant grows big and fast it is consuming a lot. If it takes eons (marimo balls) it isn't.

AC

 

[JoshuaA]

Basically if a plant grows big and fast it is consuming a lot.
AC

...and I present to you the Amazon Frogbit!

My first frogbit was a loner with just 2 opened leaves and no roots, placed it into my tank and left it. After a week it was already dividing. After another week both were dividing again. After 6 months I've given as much a I possible could to other people and the rest goes on the compost bin!

I have heard of these just melting or failing to live for long if at all in some conditions, though on the two occassions I've given them a home they have flourished. All I really know is...

I have very soft water, pH around 7-7.6 and I dose Excel daily and flourish twice a week. These things seem to grow even faster the more coverage of light you have. (It would seem silly to dose ferts with such low plant mass though I don't see the harm in trying with out the ferts. What works best for me might work differently elsewhere!).

Finally, if you're not too sure whether they're going to live it won't hurt to put a few in the tank and see if they reproduce. The roots on mine have been over 12 inches long which is impressive but can become unsightly and well I don't like the fact they love to wrap around my amazon swords and steal the light from them. Other than that my fish love them! also I don't seem to have any nitrate problems even with a irregular water change pattern.