Ammonia!

[Sambo]

I have a major problem in my tank! I recently bought a second hand Jewel Rio 125. I have replaced the filter with an external one which is big enough for the tank.

Howver I have hiigh readings of ammonia of about 3.5. I only 3 fish in there and i have used ammo lock and have done regular 50% water changes, and the ammonia wont go down! I't like something in the tank is causing it because as soon as i do a water change, ammonia still shows at the same level when i do a reading.

Can anyone help pleaaaaaaaase?

 

[WILDER]

Check tap reading in ammonia.
Did you squeeze bacteria off your old sponges onto the new sponges.
Did you leave your old internal filter in the tank while the external filter cycled.
How many fish and which type are in the tank?

 

[akp]

I have a major problem in my tank! I recently bought a second hand Jewel Rio 125. I have replaced the filter with an external one which is big enough for the tank.

Howver I have hiigh readings of ammonia of about 3.5. I only 3 fish in there and i have used ammo lock and have done regular 50% water changes, and the ammonia wont go down! I't like something in the tank is causing it because as soon as i do a water change, ammonia still shows at the same level when i do a reading.

Can anyone help pleaaaaaaaase?

When I am setting up a new tank I use AmQuel plus made by Kordon, it is not a medication.
It removes nitrate, nitrite and improtantly ammonia.
This works really well. I always increase aeration levels for around 24 hours afterwards.
This will help to settle the tank for awhile.
However it will not address any other under lying problems you may have in the tank.

 

[Cory_Dad]

I thought I read some where that when using Ammonia Lock the tests will still show an ammonia reading because the ammonia is actually still there but locked with another compound to make it harmless.

If my ammonia readings get too high in my fry tank I immediately do a water change and put in some ammo chips until the numbers go done. I've been yelled at for using ammo chips (the person had a good reason for not using them) but it's only for a short while until the numbers go down.

But this won't solve the long term problem. Did you cycle your tank for a week before you put in the fish? If not, then you don't have the bacteria in the filter that will consume the ammonia. To help set up the bio community you could try adding bacteria supplement.

Good luck and cheers.

 

[Sambo]

I filled the tank with water, and added Tetra Safe Start. I then added fish the next day. But as soon as I had high Ammonia reading I moved them all into a second tank. I now only have 2 Zebra Danios and 1 Cardinal tetra in there.

It is just weud as even after a 60% water change the readins were the same after I had done it. I did not use Ammo Lock either, just a water conditioner. This is not normal is it?

I think I may do a 100% water change on Saturday.

What is wrong with using Ammo chips?

it's doing me head in!

 

[Cory_Dad]

The problem may then be with your tap water. 3 small fish don't produce that much ammonia.

Adding fish the day after setting up a new tank is extremely risky (case in point) even when you use start up chemicals. The reason to run the tank for a week is so that the 'good' bacteria get established so that when you add fish the bacteria is there to convert the ammonia to nitrite to nitrate.

A 100% water change just removes any bacteria in the water.

I would:

a) test the tap water, if it has his ammonia then you need to get fixed tight away either chemically or biologically

b) get your tank cycled properly, you can help it along by adding bacteria, there is a product called Cycle, which should help. do you have ceramic bio material for the bacteria to grow on in your filter?

Ammo chips are great to use in an emergency but should not be used long term in a filter. Yes, it does a great job taking out the ammonia but the bacteria needs the ammonia to grow so your basically starving them.

As for the water conditioner, I don't know what you're using, but on the Prime label it says:

Prime converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form that is readily removed by the tanks biofilter.

Your tank has no biofilter, yet...

Good luck and cheers.

 

[waterdrop]

Hi Cory_Dad and Sambo!

Sambo gave some history, about switching to a new tank etc. but do we know even more history? Sambo, are you working with a good liquid-based test kit to get those ammonia readings? Once we've established that a good test is being used then the first question to answer is what are all the stats of the tap/source water (ammonia most important in this case, but it would be good to get the others for good measure.. pH, nitrite, nitrate, maybe GH if the pH is extreme.)

As most above have stated, getting correct stats on source water is needed first. Of course, because this is a "fish-in" cycling process that's been barely started, understanding the details of water changes is critical too (how often you can do them, best way to do them etc.) Not sure if answers are needed there Sambo.

Sorry if I don't know the whole story - know you fellows might have been communicating for a while and there is other info!

~~waterdrop~~

 

[Sambo]

The tap water has no ammonia showing up. My filter does have media tube things. It is a Fluval.

I have added tetra Safestart.

It is a liquid based test kit. It does work as I tried it in a friends tank where it showed no ammonia.

i have now transfered some bio media from my old tank to go in the new filter.

 

[Cory_Dad]

How often and how much do you feed your fish? Are their bellies bulging? I presume you didn't have this problem before switching the filters.

How clean is the gravel substrate? Do you deep vacuum it when you change the water?

You may want to try Prime as it locks ammonia, nitrite and nitrate at least until you get your bio filter working.

Please keep us informed.

Good luck and cheers.

 

[Sambo]

I have not been feeding them at all over the last few days. No they are not bloated.

It is is new gravel in the tank so it cant be that dirty.

did not have this porb in my old tank/

I just dont get it, it is like there is some chemical in the tank whihc is causing it.!

 

[Cory_Dad]

Well. this has me stumped because it doesn't make sense. How can the tap water register 0 ammonia, the tank 3.5 and after a 50% water change you still get a reading f 3.5?

How old is your test kit?

<shrugs and scratches head>

 

[TheConstantGrower]

This is quite mind boggling, I'm doing a fish in cycle with some mollies, and i use the ammo lock to bind it, my numbers go down a smidge, but whoever said the thing about the ammo lock not actually lowering the numbers is right, it chemically bonds the ammonia with another chemical until the cycle creates the nitrIte which eats the ammonia then the nitrAte which eats the blah blah blah you know the rest, keep up with your water changes, but and experienced fish keeper who's more of a naturalist says to let nature take its course, after all without the ammonia the cycle cant start.

But hey... that's just his opinion. what works for one doesn't have to work for you.. or me

 

[Cory_Dad]

This is quite mind boggling, I'm doing a fish in cycle with some mollies, and i use the ammo lock to bind it, my numbers go down a smidge, but whoever said the thing about the ammo lock not actually lowering the numbers is right, it chemically bonds the ammonia with another chemical until the cycle creates the nitrIte which eats the ammonia then the nitrAte which eats the blah blah blah you know the rest, keep up with your water changes, but and experienced fish keeper who's more of a naturalist says to let nature take its course, after all without the ammonia the cycle cant start.

But hey... that's just his opinion. what works for one doesn't have to work for you.. or me

Actually, it was me who said it. But still, after doing a 50% water change you'd expect the ammonia reading to go down! Maybe if he moved the fish to another tank and did a 90% water change as well as vacuuming the gravel... but that shouldn't be needed after so many water changes already.

I sort of agree with the 'naturalist' comment but when you've gone through so many changes and there's no difference, you panic. I know I do.

<dazed and confused>

 

[Sambo]

The media you can put in fish ponds to speed up the bacteria process, could i use the same in my fish tank?

 

[ckulahci]

I guess you're in a vicious circle... As long as you:

1) Still keep fishes in your not yet fully cycled tank and
2) Yet doing extremely high portions of water change

you will not be relieved from the issue. In fact you're putting yourself into deeper trouble. My advise would be the following :

- Stop doing water changes while tank is cycling
- Increase the bio-filter media surface in your filter and add some plastic plants into your tank at least temporarily.
- Good aeration is key to increase the efficiency of bio filtration.
- For a temp period, bring down the temp to 24-25C if it is currently higher than that
- Go for bacterial fluids instead of chemicals that bind ammonia
- Try to keep your ph as low as suitable for your fish

and in later stages, whatever type of freshwater (tap or even drinking...) you add into your tank from now on, de-chlorine it with chemicals available in the market before adding.