Ammonia will NOT go down!

[metropolis93fan]

I started my tank at 1 ppm ammonia. (not heavy stocking at all). About a week later, it went down to .5 ppm and nitrites were up to the first level above 0 (I don't remember how it's broken down). I got over excited and added more ammonia, bringing it to 1 ppm again. That was 2 1/2 weeks ago. The ammonia went down to .5 again after maybe 4 days? No nitrites. Haven't added any more ammonia since then and it's still at .5 ammonia and 0 nitrites. What needs to be done? I'm at a loss. Thanks for your help! Oh... I added Tetra Safe Start (whole bottle) and some of another one I can't think of the name of... for bacteria.

 

[Byron]

Members will want more data. Can you provide the GH, KH and pH, and temperature? Second, what "ammonia" did you add? Third, is chloramine added to your water.

Do you have any live plants?

The SafeStart is probably the issue here, not negatively exactly, but if you followed directions it should have worked properly, if it was still active.

 

[metropolis93fan]

Members will want more data. Can you provide the GH, KH and pH, and temperature? Second, what "ammonia" did you add? Third, is chloramine added to your water.

Do you have any live plants?

The SafeStart is probably the issue here, not negatively exactly, but if you followed directions it should have worked properly, if it was still active.

I will get all of that down later this afternoon. Just taking something to help with pain. (No, not a narcotic for those of you who get judgey about that). Temperature is kept at 78.9 degrees. Plants were just added last week. Some red root floaters and a crypto that isn't doing well. If it is DYING I'll replace with another healthy one I have growing. Will give it a month in case it's going to come back after the leaves die. (And one or two are still green, so I have hope).

The ammonia was a liquid ammonia. Will get brand name later as well. No chloramine. I use distilled and add minerals to it. I've figured out the right amount to add per gallon. My tap water is crazy hard. Definitely not conducive to aquariums!

I got a bacterial bloom after adding the Tetra Safe Start... Guess I can bite the bullet and use some of my Petco points for another bottle of Safe Start... damn it. Had plans for those points. Forgive me for not doing the pH, GH and KH right now. I just need to rest.

 

[Byron]

I will get all of that down later this afternoon. Just taking something to help with pain. (No, not a narcotic for those of you who get judgey about that). Temperature is kept at 78.9 degrees. Plants were just added last week. Some red root floaters and a crypto that isn't doing well. If it is DYING I'll replace with another healthy one I have growing. Will give it a month in case it's going to come back after the leaves die. (And one or two are still green, so I have hope).

The ammonia was a liquid ammonia. Will get brand name later as well. No chloramine. I use distilled and add minerals to it. I've figured out the right amount to add per gallon. My tap water is crazy hard. Definitely not conducive to aquariums!

I got a bacterial bloom after adding the Tetra Safe Start... Guess I can bite the bullet and use some of my Petco points for another bottle of Safe Start... damn it. Had plans for those points. Forgive me for not doing the pH, GH and KH right now. I just need to rest.

Will need to see the parameter levels later, but for the moment I would not get more SafeStart. If you intend live plants, that's it. Get the plants growing, and floating are the best here, and "cycling" is a thing of the past. I have never "cycled" an aquarium in over 30 years, and never had ammonia or nitrite above zero--all with live plants. Simple and easy is the way.

Go easy on the mineralization too...depends upon the fish. Which species are you intending here?

 

[metropolis93fan]

Will need to see the parameter levels later, but for the moment I would not get more SafeStart. If you intend live plants, that's it. Get the plants growing, and floating are the best here, and "cycling" is a thing of the past. I have never "cycled" an aquarium in over 30 years, and never had ammonia or nitrite above zero--all with live plants. Simple and easy is the way.

Go easy on the mineralization too...depends upon the fish. Which species are you intending here?

Oookay... So caught a second wind and did the tests... well, most. The pH needs the high range pH test done to know just how high it is. I have some almond leaves in there too, which should help lower pH. My KH and GH were amazingly low. I need to check my other tank now. I thought I had it figured out but I didn't. Also need to check my gallons of water before adding them! I'm glad to know this! GH was 6 and KH 4. I plan on having a single betta and two African Dwarf Frogs. I know I know, not always recommended to have ADFs with bettas. But I've done it before with no problem in a tank half this size, AND I have a spare tank in case I have to separate them. Don't WANT another tank going... water changes aren't easy for me because of health issues. I do them regularly, but don't want to have to add MORE to the list if possible. I can just hear some of you saying "Why don't you just set up two tanks then..." so answering it now.

As for plants... the floaters and the ONE crypto in a planter are all I wish to have. I just prefer the colors of silk and silicone plants. Plus they don't get all out of control like live plants can. The floaters just came in a week ago and it wasn't a HUGE amount. It'll take a while before they take over.

I'm all comfy in my chair waiting for my meds to kick in so I can nap. I'll check the High pH when I get up.

 

[Byron]

Can you check the GH, KH and pH numbers of your water authority? Might be posted on their website. We can assume the GH/KH will likely be much the same as tank water tests unless something calcareous is targeting the GH/KH, but good to confirm. The pH...are they raising it with some chemical? This is becoming more common in areas with soft acidic water, and whatever they add needs to be known.

One thing though, for bettas you do not need to be "mineralizing" anything, the softer the better, so assuming the source (tap) water is as low as the numbers here, they are fine. If they were zero they wold be fine--my tap water has been zero GH/KH for over 30 years and I have not had issues. Again, keep it simple.

And hope your health improves and doesn't worsen, take care of yourself as well as the fish.

 

[metropolis93fan]

Can you check the GH, KH and pH numbers of your water authority? Might be posted on their website. We can assume the GH/KH will likely be much the same as tank water tests unless something calcareous is targeting the GH/KH, but good to confirm. The pH...are they raising it with some chemical? This is becoming more common in areas with soft acidic water, and whatever they add needs to be known.

One thing though, for bettas you do not need to be "mineralizing" anything, the softer the better, so assuming the source (tap) water is as low as the numbers here, they are fine. If they were zero they wold be fine--my tap water has been zero GH/KH for over 30 years and I have not had issues. Again, keep it simple.

And hope your health improves and doesn't worsen, take care of yourself as well as the fish.

https://www.eurekaillinois.net/site...works/page/1861/2021_water_quality_report.pdf Can't figure out how to determine GH, KH and pH from this. I can do the tests myself when I get up for the tap water. But last I checked it was WICKED hard. I believe we get our water from wells. If my tanks don't need minerals, all the easier. I mean, it's not difficult to add the minerals to the distilled jugs. But one less step. Not sure about the frogs though. Need to check their needs too.

 

[Byron]

https://www.eurekaillinois.net/site...works/page/1861/2021_water_quality_report.pdf Can't figure out how to determine GH, KH and pH from this. I can do the tests myself when I get up for the tap water. But last I checked it was WICKED hard. I believe we get our water from wells. If my tanks don't need minerals, all the easier. I mean, it's not difficult to add the minerals to the distilled jugs. But one less step. Not sure about the frogs though. Need to check their needs too.

I got mixed up previously, forgot you said you were not using the local water, so the distilled is the water and GH/KH will be zero. Which is fine for a betta. I will not comment on the frog, but it is not "living" in water like a fish does so minerals in the water should not be harmful. Or the lack thereof. The betta assimilates the water into its bloodstream, along with all minerals (and other things) dissolved in the water, and this impacts the fish's physiology.

Checked the linked document, and no mention of GH, KH or pH. But you're not using this, so no matter.