Ammonia Staying At 0.25

[rousell]

Hi guys
I'm fishless cycling and my ammonia just doesn't seem to want go below 0.25 yet my nitrite is processing to 0 and my nitrates are rising. I'm in about week 6 into the cycle. I've checked my ph and it's fine but I just don't understand how my nitrites can clear yet the ammonia will only go down to 0.25? Any ideas anybody? Thanks

 

[sadguppy]

Are you using prime? Basically, it turns chlorine into ammonium (or something like that!) which is picked up on an API test as ammonia, yet is not harmful to fish.

 

[`Peter]

Same thing happened to me. Try testing your pH if its really low below 7 that may be the problem once your nitites processed. If thats the case do a big water change or add a bicarbonate of soda to increase the pH.

 

[rousell]

Hi and thanks for the replys. My ph Is at 7.4 so I don't think that's the problem. I'm not using prime at moment. I was going to get some as soon as I run out of the current stuff I'm using which I think is called nutrafin. By what I've read on this forum, everybody seems to be using either prime or streesscoat. I just can't get my head around why it won't go below 0.25. Surly if nitrites are clearing then shouldn't the ammonia have fully cleared before the nitrites?
Well if prime can make the ammonia safe then I shall be investing in a bottle ASAP. Thanks

 

[Xraymark]

If you are using the API test, sometimes it can be difficult to tell the difference between 0 and 0.25 with the colours.
Natural light is usually best when looking at them. Maybe post a picture of your tester.

 

[phocoena]

If you are using the API test, sometimes it can be difficult to tell the difference between 0 and 0.25 with the colours.
Natural light is usually best when looking at them. Maybe post a picture of your tester.

+1

I can only tell the difference by holding it in front of the window when it is daylight.

 

[Aqua Tom]

If you are using the API test, sometimes it can be difficult to tell the difference between 0 and 0.25 with the colours.
Natural light is usually best when looking at them. Maybe post a picture of your tester.

+1

I can only tell the difference by holding it in front of the window when it is daylight.

+2

Mine always looks 0.25 under artificial light but Zero under daylight.


Tom

 

[TwoTankAmin]

The light source should nat matter. What does matter is yyou need to hold the test tube against the card where the background is white. The have the light coming from behind your head when you look at the tube and card.

From http/andysworld.org.uk/tag/test-kits/

 

[Aqua Tom]

The light source should nat matter. What does matter is yyou need to hold the test tube against the card where the background is white. The have the light coming from behind your head when you look at the tube and card.

The light source matters greatly. All lamps give off light in a different colour, this is indicated by the number printed on them after the wattage, eg 840, 860, 800 etc. These in turn effect the way we percieve colour, this is why we use different colour lamps in our aquariums to bring out the best in our plants & fish. Here is a link that explains it far better then I ever could.

http/www.theplantedtank.co.uk/lighting.htm

The pictures illustrate perfectly the different way lamps effect the way colours look to us.



Tom

 

[mattyeatsmatts]

Wow, never thought of the different lighting affecting it

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Umm think about this for just a second. When you place the test tube against the white background next to the little color bars on the card. the Light source is affecting both. If you put the color card under different light the bars will look different. If you put the test tube under different lights the color will look different. But all you need to do is look at both under the same light.

It isn't the exact wavelength of the color that matters it is the degree of matching between the two that counts. This is why you need to place the test tube along side the sample color. And it is why you want the test tube against a white background. If you put the tube against a white, a red and a blue background under the exact same light, the color in the test tube will look different against each background.

But don't take my word for this. just bother to read the test kit instructions thoroughly. This way you will see the part in them which always says:

Determine the pH reading by matching the color of the solution against those on the pH Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the pH of the water sample.

From http/cms.marsfishc...34%20insert.pdf

The above if from the API test instructions for their master test kit manual. Read through it and each test says to do it the same way. Maybe they have not read the article above which has absolutely zero to do with this issue but is educational on the subject of light istelf not how to read test kit results.

Here are the instructions for reading the results using a Salifert Ammonia Test Kit:

Hold the test vial and look through the side of the test vial. Keep the color chart behind the test vial. Make sure that the white portion of the color chart is behind the test vial. The values on the color chart are in mg/L total ammonia (that is NH3 + NH4+).

From http/www.drsfoster...65&pcatid=16565

Even the SeaChem design uses a white test container and their result card can be placed beside this to compare the colors.

None of these instructions say anything about what light source to use of that using different light sources will rsult in seeing different results. They just want you to use a sufficiently bright source so you see the color well and to be sure to hold the tube against a white background to compare.

 

[Aqua Tom]

Blimey, here take this chill pill & calm down.

You test it your way & I and many others will test it our way. Its not realy worth getting up on your high horse about is it?

 

[TwoTankAmin]

Huh? I was simply trying to explain why the difference in light source should not really matter, and why, one should interpret the reading by holding the test tube against the white area next to the color boxes. I provided the quotes and the links to show this was not my way, but was how the manufacturers of these kits instruct their customers to use them. However, I do believe it will give one the most accurate readings.

The reason for holding them in this fashion is to minimize the potential problems caused by exactly what you pointed out. They want us to hold the tube as close to the color boxes, among other reasons, to have them under the same light. More importantly, they want them against the white background because the color boxes are against it. The boxes are not transparent. The colored solution in the tube is fairly transparent. So the background you look at it against will effect how the color in the tube appears.

An easy way to see this is to get a few sheets of colored paper- a red, a blue and a green for example. Hold the card and the test tube against each. The card colors don't change, but the tube colors, being transparent, do. A white background will affect the color in the test tube the least.

Now if you hold the tube against the white background and you have 3 colored light sources, a red, a blue and a green, you get different results. As you look at the card and the tube under each different colored light, it not only changes how the color in the tube appears but it will also change how the colors in the boxes appear.

Even though the color shift will be fairly consistent in both the box and the tube, it can be harder to read things correctly and easily due to the effect of that color shift. Colors that are easy to recognize under more normal white lighting conditions may be replaced by subtle shades of grays or blues etc. etc. My point was that changing the light source doesn't matter in terms of changing how the tube looks vs how the box colors look. When they are both lighted by that same different light source, they both change. Unlike in the backgraound example where only the tube colors will change.

Tom, may I ask if you use test kits with color charts where the instructions do not suggest holding the tube against a white background when reading the results? I would be curious to know what brand it is since I am only familiar with those available in the USA.

Sorry, no high horse meant. No intent to offend. No chill pill required. Please, could I ask you to blame those horrid kit makers instead of me

 

[snazy]

To be honest I've used the Api liquid test kit and the result is no different regardless of whether I tested under day light or artificial light. I've been running many times from the lamp to the windows to make sure I get it right and the light makes no difference to me.
The only way a 0.25 ammonia under artificial light would show 0 under day light is if you don't hold the tube against the chart maybe?
Also, the manufacturer does say the tubes need to be held against the white background next to the colour chart.

 

[snazy]

Just to add to the above that if you are using the Api liquid test kit and you do have any ammonia, then the surface of the liquid in the test tube appears sligthly darker, with a green tinge to it. If it's 0 then it will have no greenish tinge and it will be yellow regardless of the ligth. Look at the tube from above.
Also, don't wait longer than 5 minutes to read the results.