Algae :(

[RinaLane]

I had for 4 months very strong cold LED light 10500K one. I guess its for coral reefs but it was too cheap to not buy it And I already had very dim & bad light which came with tank. So all was bad anyway. So right now for 1st time in my life & life of this aquarium i have tiny seaweed algae on my 3 yards long vallisneria & on few anubiases plants. What should I do?? Cut infected parts off? Its not too much of algae but I can see it & its bothers me I feel it will spread everywhere as disease >< I run cheap UV-filter but apparently it doesnt do its job... I do have huge pleco fish but he doesnt care of hard leaf plants. Thought about buying algae eating shrimps but I doubt they will survive in 30C degrees with not too many plants to hide from big fish.
Right now I bought proper freshwater light with 4 color spectrum which suppose to improve health of my plants so I'm afraid that it will improve already growing algae too
My water stats are
 
Ammonia: 0.25ish its in yellow could be 0.00 but I leave a room for improvement with 10% daily water changes just in case...
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate:0
being like this for about 4 months so I can only blame the very bad light I had for desperate state of my plants.

 

[Vethian]

try oto cats or siamese algae eaters
why is the temp so high?

 

[Byron]

I'm not certain what "seaweed algae" refers to...this I assume is a freshwater aquarium [I vaguely remember your earlier threads].  But there are many species of algae that can inhabit a freshwater aquarium, and most (especially the problem algae species) will not be eaten by any of the so-called "algae eating" fish.  The only way to deal with algae is to prevent it, and that is done by finding the balance between light (intensity/spectrum) and nutrients (in planted tanks).  Any attempts to remove the existing algae will not have any effect on more appearing, unless one deals with the causes.
 
We will need to know the data on the lighting, plus what fertilizers you are adding, before we can offer suggestions.  Also keep in mind that the fish load (and the amount of fish food being fed) figures into the equation, as does the duration of the tank lighting each day.  Sometimes it takes some experimenting to find the balance, as each aquarium can be unique, before things settle.
 
And I would wonder with Vethian about the temperature...but if I again recall things correctly, you have discus?  So that would explain the warmer temperature.  But I would lower it a bit, to around 27-28C (82F) which is fine for discus.
 
Byron.

 

[Alasse]

Marine light is generally not suitable to a planted tank.

 

[Vethian]

For me, if I see algae...i clean it.    The fish will help keep the plants cleaner.  But yes, they wont fix everything.  If it is hair algae, as example...use a soft toothbrush to gently remove it.

 

[RinaLane]

there is any US equivalent of Tetra Algitsit? Cant find it anywhere
And yes its somekind of hairy weed on my plants. Before that there was yellow powder looking weed on stem plants but I solved that with removing all those plants. Nothing on walls of tank through. No fertilizers, no co2, 9h light day using DSuny FW-A6-2 for past few days. Changed lamps but problen still present. Can it be from not enough nutritions?
Daily water change 10% every Sunday 40%  change.
30C for baby discus. I'm afraid to lower it when they olny 2 inch big.

For me, if I see algae...i clean it.  

 The fish will help keep the plants cleaner.  But yes, they wont fix everything.  If it is hair algae, as example...use a soft toothbrush to gently remove it.

Will try to scrub my valisneria.... Anubias seems much easier to work with

 

[Byron]

there is any US equivalent of Tetra Algitsit? Cant find it anywhere
And yes its somekind of hairy weed on my plants. Before that there was yellow powder looking weed on stem plants but I solved that with removing all those plants. Nothing on walls of tank through. No fertilizers, no co2, 9h light day using DSuny FW-A6-2 for past few days. Changed lamps but problen still present. Can it be from not enough nutritions?
Daily water change 10% every Sunday 40%  change.
30C for baby discus. I'm afraid to lower it when they olny 2 inch big.

For me, if I see algae...i clean it.  

 The fish will help keep the plants cleaner.  But yes, they wont fix everything.  If it is hair algae, as example...use a soft toothbrush to gently remove it.

Will try to scrub my valisneria.... Anubias seems much easier to work with

 
Under no condition do I recommend any chemical algicide.  There is no need to resort to such methods, and there is a risk to the fish and invertebrates.
 
Algae will be a nuisance in planted tanks when something is out in the balance of light intensity and nutrients.  All one needs to do is restore (or find) the balance, and end of nuisance algae.  And please note I say nuisance algae...algae is perfectly normal in a healthy aquarium, but under control.  And that we achieve by finding the balance.
 
Light is a major part of this balance, and so are nutrients.  I don't know the light you mention...can you post some data or a link to data please?  As for nutrients, something may be missing since you are not adding any fertilizers.  Vallisneria is fairly rapidly growing, and this always means more nutrients or it cannot.  Fish foods provide most nutrients, and others occur in the water changes (the "hard" minerals), and CO2 occurs from the decomposition of organics in the substrate (main source) as well as respiration of bacteria, plants and fish.  Any chance of some photos?  These would also help ID the algae, though it is sounding like a form of brush algae.
 
Anuybias getting brush algae is almost always due to bright light, so this is a clue to what I suspect is the issue.  Too much light (intensity, then also perhaps duration if the intensity is not too much), too few nutrients to balance.
 
Byron.

 

[RinaLane]

And my cryptocarinas is so tiny

 

[RinaLane]

And the lamp is over here http/www.aliexpress.com/store/product/DSunY-WIFI-programmable-120W-aquarium-led-light-full-spectrum-freshwater-plants-4-channel-dimmable-sunrise-sunset/117944_32254566280.htmlbut i just install it on Monday so I dont think there is any effects from it yet

 

[DrRob]

That's black brush algae. Fairly common. Caused by too much light and/or not enough nutrients for the plants. CO2 is often the culprit, but to be honest the easiest thing to do is to cut back the light. You could replace the lights, or shorten the photoperiod for a quick fix (and remember that physical removal is important if a little difficult with this stuff, and that when you're talking quick with plants and algae we're closing on what feels like geological time scales when you're watching, it's weeks to get differences to stick).
 
Personally I'd turn the lights down in time period and then look at some form of nutrient regime. I'm slightly concerned by a 0 nitrate reading, it's not a common finding in a working tank, but it could just be a test kit error (some of them are prone to underreading if you don't shake them like mad).

 

[RinaLane]

That's black brush algae. Fairly common. Caused by too much light and/or not enough nutrients for the plants. CO2 is often the culprit, but to be honest the easiest thing to do is to cut back the light. You could replace the lights, or shorten the photoperiod for a quick fix (and remember that physical removal is important if a little difficult with this stuff, and that when you're talking quick with plants and algae we're closing on what feels like geological time scales when you're watching, it's weeks to get differences to stick).
 
Personally I'd turn the lights down in time period and then look at some form of nutrient regime. I'm slightly concerned by a 0 nitrate reading, it's not a common finding in a working tank, but it could just be a test kit error (some of them are prone to underreading if you don't shake them like mad).

How long my day light should be? With new lamp I use only channel 3 for 30 mins each day it goes to 100% but the rest of the day light is dimmed down to 45% And down to 1% to evening between 9-11pm. Between 11pm and 8.30am all lights is off
What nutritions should I buy?

 

[Byron]

I basically concur with Rob.  Brush algae is always due to an imbalance, and having seen the light data, I would agree to reduce the duration each day and I also agree that you need to add some fertilizers as presently there is almost certainly a shortage to balance the light.
 
On the light, I would normally suggest reducing the brightest lighting period, but if I read you correctly, this is only 30 minutes now.  Not knowing about this LED lighting, I would be inclined to leave it alone and add some fertilizers.  As Rob said, give this change a few weeks; what you are looking for is an improvement in plant response, and no increase in this algae [what is now present will not go away, but if it stops increasing you are on track].
 
In your situation, the easiest fertilzer is a complete liquid.  I currently use the Seachem "Flourish" line, specifically Flourish Comprehensive Supplement once a week, and I also use Flourish Trace once a week.  Some say these are expensive, but you use so very little, and with only one (or two) planted tanks, you will get months of use from a bottle.  Use them after the weekly water change.
 
Another similar product is the Florin line made by Brightwell Aquatics.  FlorinMulti is their "Comprehensive" equivalent.
 
What is the GH of your tap water?  This is the prime source of what are termed the "hard" minerals, specifically calcium and magnesium.  I can't see evidence of calcium deficiency in particular in the photos, so I am assuming the GH is sufficient, but it is still part of the overall equation and balance so it would be useful to ascertain the GH from your municipal water authority (check their website) if you don't already know.  The "hard" minerals are minimal in products like Flourish Comprehensive simply because most areas have sufficient of these in their water.  But if you happen to be in a soft water area, like I am, you might need to up the calcium/magnesium.  The amount in Flourish Comp is just intended to supplement, not supply.
 
One last comment on the algae...I have found that this algae will always appear on leaves that are in the process of dying, and I see evidence of that in your photos; the yellowing leaves are attracting brush algae.  So this could be partially a case of the algae just taking the advantage of an unhealthy leaf.  I see that in all of my tanks, even though I do not have any algae problems as such.
 
Byron.

 

[RinaLane]

I looked up Seachem Flourish seems very reasonable 5ml for 60G & I have only 75G. Healthy plants worth this price. But reviews says it works micacles only on small tanks with low light otherwise i need to double doze is it true? Do I need also to add Seachem Excel? What about root tabs?
GH is 6.5-8 i coudnt find in report online anything about calcium or magnesium.

 

[Byron]

I looked up Seachem Flourish seems very reasonable 5ml for 60G & I have only 75G. Healthy plants worth this price. But reviews says it works micacles only on small tanks with low light otherwise i need to double doze is it true? Do I need also to add Seachem Excel? What about root tabs?
GH is 6.5-8 i coudnt find in report online anything about calcium or magnesium.

 
Responding to the last item first, the GH is fine.  GH (general hardness) is primarily the calcium and magnesium.  Most authorities suggest a GH of 4 dGH [= 70 ppm) minimum for sufficient of these minerals for plants, and I have found that to be accurate.  I have near-zero GH (7 ppm or less than half a degree) and I raise it to 5 dGH or 6 dGH in the tanks with the larger swords.  So you're OK here.
 
Root tabs will help larger swords (single plants), and some others.  Obviously substrate tabs will have no benefit for plants not rooted in the substrate (like your Anubias, and any floating plants).  The benefit of substrate tabs is that the nutrients are released over time and closest to the root systems, and they do not get into the water column the way liquid additives do directly.  So for heavy-feeding plants rooted in the substrate, they will benefit.  I use them next to my larger swords, aponogeton and red tiger lotus.  For rapid runner plants, like the chain swords and Vallisneria I have not found them necessary.
 
Excel is a carbon supplement, so-called "liquid carbon."  As I have written elsewhere, I do not recommend this product because it is a toxic chemical.  But to your situation, it is known to kill Vallisneria outright, and you have Vallisneria.  There will be sufficient CO2 occurring naturally to balance the light and other nutrients.  I have never added any form of carbon in more than 25 years of planted tanks.  CO2 does become necessary when you move into high-tech systems with intense lighting and daily nutrient dosing, and then a diffuser is best.
 
As for doubling the Flourish Comprehensive, sometimes this is helpful, sometimes not.  I have had outbreaks of brush algae (what you have) solely from adding a second weekly dose, so one has to be careful.  Down to that balance again.  "Low light" is a subjective term, and it is always risky to generalize too much.  I do use the terms low, moderate and bright for plant light requirements, recognizing these are subjective terms and only I really know what I mean by them without detailed explanations.  Many will write that anything less than 2 watts of light per gallon is low light, but to me this is high (bright) light; none of my tanks have anywhere close to this.  Not to mention using watts now days is deceptive as there is lighting that produces much more intense brightness with less energy, and watts is simply the amount of energy a bulb or tube uses to produce its light.
 
I would start off with once a week, and after a few weeks observe the plants' response, and algae.  If the plants respond positively and algae does not, you will have found the balance.  For a 75g, I would use one teaspoon (5 ml) of Flourish Comprehensive.  Before doubling this down the road, I would consider Flourish Trace as well; I found that using both as opposed to doubling the Comprehensive provided more benefit to the plants but kept algae reduced.  The addition of Trace with Comprehensive was very noticeable with my floating plants and my chain swords.
 
Byron.

 

[RinaLane]

Thank you Byron. I ordered both Seachems. Will start to doze on Sunday will see if my totally dwarfed cryptocorynas can get back in normal size or not