Algae

allnew

New Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2010
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Hi. Am new to forum's and new to marine fish tanking...have had our 250L tank for 3 mnths now. Is a Red Sea Max tank with usual set up. We have 2 clownfish only so far, a few hermit crabs, 2 cleaner shrimps and a starfish....

We have ongoing problem with algae. All tested parametere always good - 0 ammonia/nitrate/nitrie (haven't checked phosphate yet - have to buy kit)

Most of the rock surfaces are furry, the snails are covered in algae - all green and 'fuury/fine hair' type.....

Could this still be part of the cycling process or will we always be cleaning algae out of our tank - is a bit soul destroying....really need to clean daily but not doing that!!

Before we bought the fish we turned the lights off completely which really dampened it down and now they're only on 7 hrs a day - but I'm worried this isn't enough for the fish - but has helped a bit...should we have the lights on more for the fish?

Someone told me that if you test the phosphate and it's low - that won't necessarily help you because it may mean that the algae has simply used all the phosphate up....is that right?
 
Algae needs two things to grow, light and a source of food. Your light routine sounds fine so I'm goign to assume that its a nutrient issue. Most algae will use Ammonia, then phosphates then nitrates to grow. In most cases algae issues are due to high phosphates and/or high nitrates.

As you have mentioned though the algae can use up all available phosphates/nitrates as they are being created so you still get algae growth but no detectable phosphates/nitrates (also add in the fact that most test kits just aren't that sensitive or accurate to pick up low levels).

The good news is if you can't detect phosphates or nitrates on a test kit then your water quality is good for the fish and inverts. Also algae blooms are common in new tanks so this is a contributing factor as well.

My advice would be keep up with regular weekly partial water changes (using pure, zero tds, RO water to make your new salt water up with), use some phosphate removing media and replace it regularly (something like rowaphos) and just keep manually removing the algae in the short term.

Give it a couple of months and it will probably burn itself out as long as you are doing the above. I would say that most marine tanks have the odd patch of green in them (some more than others) and its not such a bad thing as it helps to remove the phosphates and nitrates from the water and its a food source for many marine critters and some fish as well.

If you still have issues consider maybe looking at getting a few more members for your CUC (I would say this is the last resort, personally I think people tend to overdo it with CUC). In my 100g tank I only have 3 snails, while this isn't honestly enough I wouldn't want to get many more in there and the tank never gets too over run. Finding true algae eaters for your CUC as well is not that easy. Hermits I would say are rubbish at it, emerald crabs are apparently good but I don't really trust any kind of crab in a reef tank. Conchs are supposed to be good too.


Welcome to the forum as well :) look forward to hearing more about your tank!

Edit: If I remember correct the RSM tank has back compartments? If so you might want to consider converting one of them into a refugium (put a light over it) and then put a macro algae in like chaetomorpha. this will out compete the other algae in the tank by using up all the available nutrients in the water column.

Info on Chaeto:
http://www.brettsreef.com/index.php/the-macro-algae-chaetomorpha/
 
:hi: to TFF and the salty side of the forum. We would love to see some photos of your tank and hear your plans :good:

Seffie x
 
I asked a similar question the other day and mine has drastically reduced as I have set my timer for lights 4 hours after it used to be
 

Most reactions

Back
Top