Algae and spotty java fern

Thanks for your reply.
I don't know the Kelvin rating. How do I find this out. The tank light is on a few hours and it is not consistent. The sunlight in the room is not bright but light gets in on all sides of the tank. The java fern uses low light and the other plants use more light I'm guessing. It's all a bit haphazard. I'm new to this. I don't know whatthe GH of the water is or even what that is. Thanks again
The pH of the water is 7.4- 7.8
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrate 0 ppm Nitrate 10ppm

The Kelvin might be on the unit, or the package, or on the end of the tube if it is fluorescent light. If these do not work, look up the unit and give us the link.

A regular photoperiod is advisable first for the fish, but also it helps control algae. Daylight entering the room factors in too, and sunlight can really cause algae problems.

A photo of the entire tank will allow us to see the plant species/numbers and the fish load.

GH is general hardness, which measures the dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water. You need to track this down for the source water, check the website of the water provider. This is worth knowing as it is a source of these two mineral nutrients; it is also important for fish, some need hard water and some soft water.
 
I mentioned the cause, it is an imbalance. To sort this out we need to know the light data--intensity, spectrum (the Kelvin rating), how long the light is on each day, and is it consistent by using a timer or ad hoc. All of these lighting factors are important. As for the nutrients in balance, are you using any fertilizer? What is the GH of your water?

Do not use hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is a powerful oxidizer that has been used under field conditions to control I. multifiliis. High doses can cause gill damage leading to fish mortality (especially at high temperatures) (Schmidt et al. 2006; Noga, 2010). Some may argue that "high doses" would not apply, but that is no reason (and may not be true anyway) to risk fish when there are safer methods.
 
The Kelvin might be on the unit, or the package, or on the end of the tube if it is fluorescent light. If these do not work, look up the unit and give us the link.

A regular photoperiod is advisable first for the fish, but also it helps control algae. Daylight entering the room factors in too, and sunlight can really cause algae problems.

A photo of the entire tank will allow us to see the plant species/numbers and the fish load.

GH is general hardness, which measures the dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water. You need to track this down for the source water, check the website of the water provider. This is worth knowing as it is a source of these two mineral nutrients; it is also important for fish, some need hard water and some soft water.
 
The Kelvin might be on the unit, or the package, or on the end of the tube if it is fluorescent light. If these do not work, look up the unit and give us the link.

A regular photoperiod is advisable first for the fish, but also it helps control algae. Daylight entering the room factors in too, and sunlight can really cause algae problems.

A photo of the entire tank will allow us to see the plant species/numbers and the fish load.

GH is general hardness, which measures the dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water. You need to track this down for the source water, check the website of the water provider. This is worth knowing as it is a source of these two mineral nutrients; it is also important for fish, some need hard water and some soft water.
 

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I can't find the Kelvin rating on the light or in the information booklet but I have posted what I could find. The web page to the actual tank I bought in September last year.
 
That is not t all bad, so this should be easy to resolve. I would suggest a dark background to the tank. The simplest that I use is black construction paper; you can buy one sheet and cut it to the size of the tank back glass, and just tape it on the outside. This will really show off the colours of fish and plants.

Get a basic timer for the tank light and have it on for 7 hours, any time of the day is fine, provided it is consistent each day, and there is a period of several hours of total darkness.

Some floating plants would likely help too. Water Sprite, Water Lettuce, or Frogbit. Or allow the stem plants to grow across the surface. Stay with the Flourish Comprehensive once a week, careful not to overdose.
 
I can't find the Kelvin rating on the light or in the information booklet but I have posted what I could find. The web page to the actual tank I bought in September last year.

I can't make much of that, but @Essjay might, I believe she knows these aquariums. I'll assume it is OK in the interim.
 
Thanks. Sadly a few days ago I cut off two of my java Fern leaves because they had algae
Would it be ok to cut off the top of the plant at the stem thanks
 

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That is not t all bad, so this should be easy to resolve. I would suggest a dark background to the tank. The simplest that I use is black construction paper; you can buy one sheet and cut it to the size of the tank back glass, and just tape it on the outside. This will really show off the colours of fish and plants.

Get a basic timer for the tank light and have it on for 7 hours, any time of the day is fine, provided it is consistent each day, and there is a period of several hours of total darkness.

Some floating plants would likely help too. Water Sprite, Water Lettuce, or Frogbit. Or allow the stem plants to grow across the surface. Stay with the Flourish Comprehensive once a week, careful not to overdose.
Thanks! Can I buy one that will somehow connect to my present aquarium light?
 
That is not t all bad, so this should be easy to resolve. I would suggest a dark background to the tank. The simplest that I use is black construction paper; you can buy one sheet and cut it to the size of the tank back glass, and just tape it on the outside. This will really show off the colours of fish and plants.

Get a basic timer for the tank light and have it on for 7 hours, any time of the day is fine, provided it is consistent each day, and there is a period of several hours of total darkness.

Some floating plants would likely help too. Water Sprite, Water Lettuce, or Frogbit. Or allow the stem plants to grow across the surface. Stay with the Flourish Comprehensive once a week, careful not to overdose.
 
The last question was for a timer for aquarium light. I'm doing my research. Not sure where to start. Google. Cheers
 
According to the manual (link in post #34), this tank has a NovoLux LED tube. Juwel's website this is 6500K. Unlike other Juwel LED's there would appear to be just one NovoLux LED.


Timer - Juwel sell a timer for this tank & tube, it has two dimming phases but it is likely expensive.

But I use timers like this and this I assume similar products are available in New Zealand
 
According to the manual (link in post #34), this tank has a NovoLux LED tube. Juwel's website this is 6500K. Unlike other Juwel LED's there would appear to be just one NovoLux LED.


Timer - Juwel sell a timer for this tank & tube, it has two dimming phases but it is likely expensive.

But I use timers like this and this I assume similar products are available in New Zealand
These still only switch on and off...no gradual turning up of the light, or turning down of the light before bed.

NOTE that recreating a sunrise isn't usually necessary, unless the tank is in a room with no access to daylight. Normal, natural sunrise will occur for the fish.
Sunset is a slightly different matter, because we have out lights on when it goes dark.
That said, turning them off (suddenly) is not as stressful as one might think. Those who have spent time in the tropics will appreciate the natural rapidity of nightfall. That said, turning the lights on, in a previously darkened room, is not stress-reducing for fish. ;)
 
The fancy timer Juwel make to go with NovoLux tubes does have a sunrise and sunset dimming function, but that's all. It's not got the multiple settings like other lights discussed on the forum.
 

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