Adding A Sponge To An Existing Charcoal Filtration System

[Scates11]

I am doing a fish-in cycle in my tank, I now know that this is not the best way to go about cycling a tank but I rushed into it and did my research after so I have 4 different Molly species (1 of each) in my 36 gallon bowfront tank.

Sorry in advance if this is a tired topic but I could not find anything matching my question...

As I do more research I am realizing that the build up of bacteria is crucial in getting the tank cycled. My kit came with a standard charcoal filtering system with a pump but it seems these filters need to be changed every couple of weeks. There is not much room in front of the existing filter (1/2") but if I can cut a sponge to size that would fit is this a good way to keep the good bacteria flowing in the tank while changing my charcoal filter every couple of weeks?

I have had the tank running for 10 days and am doing 25% water changes every 3-4 days. I bought the cheap test strips that dont give me ammonia readings but I have taken my water to the lfs several times to get it tested and they always say "it's perfect"....this seems funny due to the fact that I am very early in the cycle but perhaps they just want to sell fish.

Any advice or tips would help, thanks in advance.

 

[thereverendturtle]

Liquid test kits are better than the strips. Sorry I know that's not your question.
As for the filter, what type is it? If you can fit a piece of sponge, that would be very beneficial.

 

[La.La]

As I do more research I am realizing that the build up of bacteria is crucial in getting the tank cycled. My kit came with a standard charcoal filtering system with a pump but it seems these filters need to be changed every couple of weeks. There is not much room in front of the existing filter (1/2") but if I can cut a sponge to size that would fit is this a good way to keep the good bacteria flowing in the tank while changing my charcoal filter every couple of weeks?

Just rinse the filters with your tank water (not tap water) when doing a water change. You don't have to replace the sponge/filter pads monthly.

 

[La.La]

heres a good thread on the subject with an explanation.

http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/411155-filter-media/page__hl__+rinse%20+filter#entry3460533

 

[Scates11]

Liquid test kits are better than the strips. Sorry I know that's not your question.
As for the filter, what type is it? If you can fit a piece of sponge, that would be very beneficial.

I am going to pick up the liquid test kit tomorrow.

I am not sure what brand of filter it is...the best way to describe it is a cartridge filled with the charcoal and surrounded by a white filter pad. It is one unit and cant be taken apart or cleaned seperatly that's why i was hoping I could add a little sponge just before the filter so that when i change the filter I dont loose all the good bacteria build up. Hope my description was good enough, not sure how else to say it i'm still trying to get the lingo down lol. Thanks for your reply!

 

[thereverendturtle]

Ok. Typical hang on the back filter.
The amount of carbon in those is really useless. What I've done in the past, is cut a slit in the top of the media cartridge and filled it with ceramic bio-filter rings, after dumping the carbon. This allowed me to keep a good colony of bacteria going and being able to change the filter pad when they get to the point they need to be replaced.

 

[Scates11]

Ok. Typical hang on the back filter.
The amount of carbon in those is really useless. What I've done in the past, is cut a slit in the top of the media cartridge and filled it with ceramic bio-filter rings, after dumping the carbon. This allowed me to keep a good colony of bacteria going and being able to change the filter pad when they get to the point they need to be replaced.

Seems to be a good idea, I am still thinking of getting a whole new filtration system in the next few weeks and but the issue to bed all together. I hope my carbon filter will last till then cause i fear changing things now will screw my cycle up...I am only 13 days in at this point and am just starting to get some elevated Amonia readings (.25-.50) and have not seen a trace of Nitrite yet.

Thanks again for the input it is very much appreciated!

 

[Mikey1]

Ok. Typical hang on the back filter.
The amount of carbon in those is really useless. What I've done in the past, is cut a slit in the top of the media cartridge and filled it with ceramic bio-filter rings, after dumping the carbon. This allowed me to keep a good colony of bacteria going and being able to change the filter pad when they get to the point they need to be replaced.

great idea,

i do not use any carbon in any of my tanks, its over rated and IMO useless (unless you are removing meds from the water), if i use a hang on the back filter i do just as you do, or i use TWO foam inserts instead of one foam and one carbon

 

[supershamus]

Ok. Typical hang on the back filter.
The amount of carbon in those is really useless. What I've done in the past, is cut a slit in the top of the media cartridge and filled it with ceramic bio-filter rings, after dumping the carbon. This allowed me to keep a good colony of bacteria going and being able to change the filter pad when they get to the point they need to be replaced.

great idea,

i do not use any carbon in any of my tanks, its over rated and IMO useless (unless you are removing meds from the water), if i use a hang on the back filter i do just as you do, or i use TWO foam inserts instead of one foam and one carbon

Absolutely agree re the carbon. I also have never used it in more years than i care to remember. Lie! did use it once to remove some sort of white spot med years ago.

 

[eaglesaquarium]

Liquid test kits are better than the strips. Sorry I know that's not your question.
As for the filter, what type is it? If you can fit a piece of sponge, that would be very beneficial.

I am going to pick up the liquid test kit tomorrow.

I am not sure what brand of filter it is...the best way to describe it is a cartridge filled with the charcoal and surrounded by a white filter pad. It is one unit and cant be taken apart or cleaned seperatly that's why i was hoping I could add a little sponge just before the filter so that when i change the filter I dont loose all the good bacteria build up. Hope my description was good enough, not sure how else to say it i'm still trying to get the lingo down lol. Thanks for your reply!

You've basically got the general idea. BTW, the reason that your readings are still good is because of the volume of water compared to the amount of fish in the tank. Keep your feedings small and fairly infrequent (every other day is sufficient, certainly no more than 5 times a week at this point - more food = more ammonia), keep up with the water changes.

I also greatly suggest that you invest in two things: first, a liquid test kit, and second a 5 ml syringe (available at any drug store).


If you are cheap, like me, you can really stretch the API test kit by doing this simple trick. The ammonia test calls for 5ml and 8 drops of solution. You can double the length of time that the test kit lasts by using the syringe to measure out only 2.5 ml of water into the tube (rather than relying on the line on the tube), and use only 4 drops, instead of the 8 drops. (Half the tank water requires half the solution to get a proper reading.)
The nitrite test calls for 5ml and 5 drops. So, I use only 3ml of tank water and 3 drops (one drop for each ml of tank water, just keep that ratio, and things will work just fine, and save you quite a bit of money, especially when you consider how much you need to test during a cycle.

I'd recommend doing at least a 50% water change each week, during this process, in addition to the regular changes during the week. It is a lot of work, but having the fish all survive with no ammonia poisoning during the process and living to a ripe old age, will greatly help.


Next question: What genders are your mollies? Do you have all males, all females or a mix - and do you know how to tell the difference?

With livebearers (including mollies) it is best to have at least 2 females for every 1 male, usually 3 or 4 is better to spread the attention of the males out and to reduce the stress on the females. Another option is to stick with all males - going all females usually backfires, as inevitably one of them ends up being pregnant and in a few weeks, you'll have some babies and some males might survive.... also sometimes the males are slow to mature and what appears to be a female in the pet store, turns out to be a male in your tank.


Final issue that you could definitely benefit looking into: Is your water hard or soft? Mollies don't require salt as is often stated, but they can tolerate much higher levels than most other "freshwater" fish. They DO REQUIRE hard water - the higher the mineral content of the water, the better the health of the mollies long term. If you have hard water in your tap, great. If not, things could get complicated if you try to add some minerals to the tank. For now with the cycle though, just focus on the ammonia/nitrite above ALL else.

 

[Scates11]

Liquid test kits are better than the strips. Sorry I know that's not your question.
As for the filter, what type is it? If you can fit a piece of sponge, that would be very beneficial.

I am going to pick up the liquid test kit tomorrow.

I am not sure what brand of filter it is...the best way to describe it is a cartridge filled with the charcoal and surrounded by a white filter pad. It is one unit and cant be taken apart or cleaned seperatly that's why i was hoping I could add a little sponge just before the filter so that when i change the filter I dont loose all the good bacteria build up. Hope my description was good enough, not sure how else to say it i'm still trying to get the lingo down lol. Thanks for your reply!

You've basically got the general idea. BTW, the reason that your readings are still good is because of the volume of water compared to the amount of fish in the tank. Keep your feedings small and fairly infrequent (every other day is sufficient, certainly no more than 5 times a week at this point - more food = more ammonia), keep up with the water changes.

I also greatly suggest that you invest in two things: first, a liquid test kit, and second a 5 ml syringe (available at any drug store).


If you are cheap, like me, you can really stretch the API test kit by doing this simple trick. The ammonia test calls for 5ml and 8 drops of solution. You can double the length of time that the test kit lasts by using the syringe to measure out only 2.5 ml of water into the tube (rather than relying on the line on the tube), and use only 4 drops, instead of the 8 drops. (Half the tank water requires half the solution to get a proper reading.)
The nitrite test calls for 5ml and 5 drops. So, I use only 3ml of tank water and 3 drops (one drop for each ml of tank water, just keep that ratio, and things will work just fine, and save you quite a bit of money, especially when you consider how much you need to test during a cycle.

I'd recommend doing at least a 50% water change each week, during this process, in addition to the regular changes during the week. It is a lot of work, but having the fish all survive with no ammonia poisoning during the process and living to a ripe old age, will greatly help.


Next question: What genders are your mollies? Do you have all males, all females or a mix - and do you know how to tell the difference?

With livebearers (including mollies) it is best to have at least 2 females for every 1 male, usually 3 or 4 is better to spread the attention of the males out and to reduce the stress on the females. Another option is to stick with all males - going all females usually backfires, as inevitably one of them ends up being pregnant and in a few weeks, you'll have some babies and some males might survive.... also sometimes the males are slow to mature and what appears to be a female in the pet store, turns out to be a male in your tank.


Final issue that you could definitely benefit looking into: Is your water hard or soft? Mollies don't require salt as is often stated, but they can tolerate much higher levels than most other "freshwater" fish. They DO REQUIRE hard water - the higher the mineral content of the water, the better the health of the mollies long term. If you have hard water in your tap, great. If not, things could get complicated if you try to add some minerals to the tank. For now with the cycle though, just focus on the ammonia/nitrite above ALL else.

Wow this is some great information. I did get the API liquid test kit and it has been great to get true readings. I am not sure the sex of the mollies nor do I know how to sex them myself but that would be helpful as well. I live in Phoenix AZ. and our water is very hard so that part should not be an issue.

Thanks again for the info!!

 

[Scates11]

I just bit the bullet and bought the Aqua Clear 70 so I did not have to worry anymore. It says its good for 40-70 gallon tanks and mine is only 36 but I figured overkill is better than not enough filtration.

 

[thereverendturtle]

I just bit the bullet and bought the Aqua Clear 70 so I did not have to worry anymore. It says its good for 40-70 gallon tanks and mine is only 36 but I figured overkill is better than not enough filtration.

That's a great filter. I have a 50 that I've been using since 1991, and it was used when I got it. As for media, I would suggest two bags of the ceramic rings and a sponge. Keep the carbon, incase you ever have to medicate and need to remove it from the water when done.
If you post pics of your mollies, we can sex them for you. We just need side shots.

 

[Mikey1]

I just bit the bullet and bought the Aqua Clear 70 so I did not have to worry anymore. It says its good for 40-70 gallon tanks and mine is only 36 but I figured overkill is better than not enough filtration.

thats a great filter, good choice,

use TWO sponge inserts in it instead of the recommended one sponge, one carbon

 

[Yanks15]

+1 on the AC!

Thanks,
Steve