780 Litre Tank

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ricbea

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Good morning all,
 
So after a 2 day delay the tank is in!!! 
winner.gif

 
Pics will follow, I am generally a fairly calm person but right now I am like a 6 year old at Christmas. Final decision is made the tank will be stocked with fish from lake Malawi.
 
I look forward to comments and criticism on how the tank develops, any help or suggestions will be greatly accepted.
 
Richard.
 
Here is a picture with my faithful but crazy hound Max. She wanted to get in and well i dont know what
 

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So today has been a touch busy, my thanks go to the 4 guys who stepped up and helped to get the tank in the house. No easy task considering we had to lift it up 1.55m just to get to the window ledge. Here are a few pictures from the day. Hopefully i will post some water stats and the like a bit later this evening. Building blocks.jpg
Base was made up from 12 concrete blocks placed equally across 2 rows, then 1 inch desk laid on top followed by 1inch polystyrene.After tank was positioned my daughter Ella decided she wanted to go for a swim, (no water). Ella goes swimming.jpg
Next was getting some plastic egg crate type material down on the glass for protection. The rocks followed shortly after. Rocky egg carton.jpg
Missed the next photo, too excited and forgot. So we come to the filling stage. I was undecided how to do this, in the end put a bucket in the tank and let the water overflow, this I feel was the best option as it kept the disruption to the sand down to a minimum. Waterfalls.jpg
 
 
The set up of the tank is as follows:
2 external filters Eheim classic 600 and Eheim professional 3 350. I did want both the same but my LFS didnt have 2 of each. Ah the difference between the classic and pro models.  Professional, prime it and turn on instant start, classic, prime it and turn on then shake it around magic wand (without the magic). It took ages to get it started, got there in the end, so its all good.
 
Lighting. I went for 2 LED lights with dual lighting. They were expensive but they look great and really give off some good light on max setting. Soft light is really very effective as well.
 
Heater. I plumped for a hefty Eheim  that is suitable for 600-1000 litres.
 
Airpump. Haven't decided if I will use it yet or not. APS 400.
 
Substrate. 54kg of white sand 0.4mm.
 
Overall, I am very happy with how the day has gone and relieved it is in and set up. Now it is time to go through cycling the tank. I am hoping it will be ready for Christmas but if not so be it.
Will post a picture of the finished tank in a few minutes.
 
Rocks. Quite a mixture of these and around 80kg. 

And as promised the grand unveiling of my new tank.
 
complete tank.jpg
 
I am now not so certain if there are enough rocks. There is an absolute stack of room inside so I may decide to add more depending on feedback.
 
 
More rocks! I'm just speaking from aesthetics point of view lol....it's so cool, I wish I could have a tank that big!
 
Hi jag,
Thanks for taking the time to post. I didn't think there were enough rocks in there. I will go hunting on the weekend for more and upload pics after. The truth is I have never a done a tank like this before (I am more of the planted type and let them grow wild) and really do not have much of a clue when it comes to how something should look. I did check out that the fish need lots of caves and hidey holes which this does.
Richard. 
 
Hi All,
The tank water has cleared beautifully, this was taken approx. 12 hours after I turned on the filters.
12 hours later.jpg
The difference between 12 hours is astounding. I have noticed a couple of dead spots in the flow of the water around the tank, I hope that when the tanks is populated these will be negated by the movement of the fish. As I said before I have never set a tank like this before and I would like to understand how to keep the flow good without creating sand storms in the water.
 
I have to say I feel very happy with how the tank is progressing and even the wife is warming to it! If you could have heard her when i brought it home...
 
I have run the first set of tests on the water parameters using a water test set from Tetra, where I live in the Czech Republic it is just not possible to get the favoured API kit. It is somewhat frustrating for me as a lot of the kit I would like to buy I am not able to get unless I import it and the price goes off the scale.
 
I tested pH, GH and KH results as follows:
 
pH = 8.1
GH = 21°
KH = 11°
 
Temperature of the water out of the well was 15°c and is now at 25.9. I have set it 27. After it reaches that temp I will start the cycle. Unfortunately I am unable to buy ammonia over here so it will have to be done food and lots of testing, unless....Somebody knows another way and would care to help me out please.
 
Thanks for reading,
Richard.
 
Hi Richard; you asked me some questions via PM, so I will respond here.  First was on the water parameters...no problem with these numbers for Lake Malawi fish.  Regular partial water changes of half the tank weekly should keep things fine.
 
I would add more rocks though, a lot more.  If you can build them up across the back of the tank at least mid-tank if not higher, it would be better, and leaving "caves" as best you can.  I don't know how many cichlids you intend, but most rift lake aquarists recommend more rather than few with mbuna, so having a rock wall of sorts will be better.  Make sure you silicone the rocks in place to each other (dry obviously) to avoid collapse which would break the tank.
 
On the cycling issue, I am not a fan of using ammonia or similar, so I would suggest a bacterial supplement.  Dr. Tim's One and Only if you can get it, or Tetra's SafeStart (this is Dr. Tim's previous version), or even Seachem's Stability (I have used this on occasion).  I normally "silent cycle" with live plants and the first fish, but here plants may not be feasible.  Though having said that, Vallisneria is a good plant for rift lake tanks as it is native to these lakes and will thrive with the harder water.  Mbuna might nibble it a bit, but that is providing an essential part of their diet, and the Vallisneria will likely keep pace.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Byron.
 
I never knew that you had to silicone the rocks together, but it makes sense now that I think about it!! Things are looking great, and Vallis will grow like crazy, so it should look great in a tank this big! If you wanted some plants.
 
Hi Gents,
 
Thank you both for your comments, wow so many rocks...I thought i was under stocked on them but, well okay I guess i need another ~200kg to build across the back (and there goes my back on Saturday) but you know what I don't mind. The tank needs to be right. Byron, this is why it is important to ask questions, you jolted my memory on a product i bought called Easy start by easy life, it is a bacterial combi system that is basically the same (I hope) as the products you mentioned above. I will try that and see where it leads me.
I just searched the plant Vallisneria and to my surprise there is a LFS some 15 minutes away from that stocks it, guess where I am going on Friday afternoon?
 
I did quite a lot of research into the fish I wanted to populate this tank with now I am in somewhat of a quandry. Let me explain- With my GH being at 20° it has actually excluded several of the types of fish that I wanted to have. Does a difference of 5° make a massive difference? It is a wish list and of course I understand that I wont be able to have them all and further I am guessing there will be some natural selection that occurs with survival of the fittest and all that. 
My intention was to take the stocking level to 65 fish which when all fully grown would equate to 245". Following the research I did on stocking levels of these fish and overstocking to nullify aggression was deemed acceptable. Your thoughts on this would also be greatly accepted.
 
Electric yellow lab,      10-15°
Giraffe Cichlid,            12-30°
Kadango                     10-20°
Lavender Mbuna         5-20°
Peacock Cichlid           10-15°
Red Top Hongi            10-20°
Red Zebra                   10-15°
Sunshine Peacock       10-25°
Yellow Tail Acei            5-15°
 
The mix of was based on aggression levels and i matched via a matrix i found on the net. These fish should all play nicely together.
 
pH will not be an issue but the GH i fear will be, as always any advice will not only be welcomed but will also be heeded.
 
Thanks in advance,
Richard.
 
I prefer to let the more experienced rift lake cichlid aquarists comment on the species with respect to compatibility, numbers, and water parameters.  My only foray into rift lake fish was way back in the early 1980's and there is more information and data available now.  You have (from the numbers) fairly hard and basic water which I do not feel is going to cause problems here, but I will bow to the more experienced if they should disagree.
 
Byron.
 
Hi All,
 
Byron you mentioned in a previous post the "silent cycle", i have done some reading on that this evening after work. Am i to understand correctly that I can put fish into the tank without having run a cycle? This may seem like a ridiculous question but I really do not want to mess this up! The reason I ask this is that all posts i see say don't run a fish-in cycle but rather go for a fish less cycle.
Tomorrow i am going to a shop that sells Valliseria and will be (hopefully) be returning with some to put into the tank. I added the Easy start yesterday evening ~24 hours ago and have an ample supply so following instructions on the bottle I will continue to add as required. 
This really is a very exciting time for my 6 year old ("ahem" and me) and of course if i can go a quicker and safe way to adding my desired fish to the tank then I would of course love to take that route.
 
Richard.
 
ricbea said:
Hi All,
 
Byron you mentioned in a previous post the "silent cycle", i have done some reading on that this evening after work. Am i to understand correctly that I can put fish into the tank without having run a cycle? This may seem like a ridiculous question but I really do not want to mess this up! The reason I ask this is that all posts i see say don't run a fish-in cycle but rather go for a fish less cycle.
Tomorrow i am going to a shop that sells Valliseria and will be (hopefully) be returning with some to put into the tank. I added the Easy start yesterday evening ~24 hours ago and have an ample supply so following instructions on the bottle I will continue to add as required. 
This really is a very exciting time for my 6 year old ("ahem" and me) and of course if i can go a quicker and safe way to adding my desired fish to the tank then I would of course love to take that route.
 
Richard.
 
The idea behind what is now being termed "silent cycle" is that the aquarist does not do any deliberate "cycle" but rather allows the nitrifying bacteria to establish naturally.  However, this takes anywhere from 2 to 8 weeks normally, and is driven by the amount of ammonia added to the system.  With the silent cycle, live plants are used to take up the ammonia/ammonium from the fish.  There are some essentials that must be followed.  To begin with, there must be a reasonably good growth of live plants, and some of these must be fast growing species.  Floating plants are ideal here, as being at the surface they have good light, and can assimilate CO2 from the air (what we term the aerial advantage), since CO2 is likely to be more plentiful in the air compared to the CO2 that may be in the water.  It also takes four times longer for submersed plants to take up CO2 from the water as it does emersed from the air.  Floating plants are naturally fast-growing plants because of these advantages (light and CO2).  Stem plants are fast growers, but here they may take longer to settle down and they depend upon CO2 in the water, and sufficient light has to reach them.  Vallisneria is a fast-growing plant, as are Amazon swords, and there are some others; but again, you need to make sure the plants are settled and have started growing.  Light and other nutrients also impact submersed plant growth.
 
Once you have the plants established, you can add fish.  It is best to start small, much as you would once a tank is "cycled" by the fishless method, and for the same reason.  You don't want to overwhelm the system with ammonia.  The ammonia produced by the first fish will be taken up by the plants.  Studies have shown that plant uptake of ammonia/ammonium is faster than the uptake by Nitrosomonas bacteria.  The latter will still establish, but generally slower that they would without the plants.
 
Plants, like all animals, need nitrogen which is a macronutrient, and most aquatic plants prefer nitrogen in the form of ammonium.  The ammonia produced by fish respiration and the breakdown of organics is released into the water; it can be present in one or both of two forms, ammonia (NH3) or ammonium (NH4).  Ammonia and ammonium exist in equilibrium, but the pH determines which will predominate; in acidic water, ammonium predominates, whereas in basic pH water it is reversed.  Plants take up either, and when it is primarily ammonia, this diffuses across the cell membrane and combines with a hydrogen ion (H+) to convert to ammonium.  Ammonia is also combined with stored carbohydrates to form amino acids used to synthesize proteins.  Aquatic plants actually take up a great deal of ammonia/ammonium.  Provided the fish load is not too great to start with, there will be no detrimental effect on the fish.  Our hobby test kits for ammonia will not show ammonia above zero throughout.
 
Another benefit to this process is that unlike the nitrifying bacteria cycling, with live plants there is no nitrite produced, so that aspect of cycling is simply non-existant.  Nitrate is also absent, though this will or may appear in time as the nitrifying bacteria do establish.  There is really nothing to take this up, though this can occur by de-nitrification primarily in the substrate but also the filter.  There are also some bacteria in the substrate that use nitrate and produce oxygen.  Planted tanks using the low-tech or natural method should have very low nitrate, sometimes even zero using our test kits.  
 
The nitrifying bacteria will still establish, this is natural in any body of water.  But you will not be able to detect it, and more to the point, neither will the fish.  Provided the plants are sufficient and the fish load is initially small, there is no better method of cycling new tanks.
 
In your situation, Vallisneria will certainly help in "cycling."  Depending upon how many fish you introduce and how rapidly, a good stand of Vallisneria might handle everything.  But I would use a bacterial supplement here, just as a sort of failsafe.  I've done this myself whenever I have set up a new tank with perhaps not that many plants, or a lot of fish.  In 15+ years I have never had cycling issues when using the live plant method, and I always have the water surface covered with floating plants.
 
Ask if anything is unclear.
 
Byron.
 
I'm going to ask a question for my own curiosity lol. Would you still recommend this method in a cichlid situation, such as this?? Seeing as cichlids are very territorial and establish a pecking order, wouldn't it be best to add all the fish at once similar to a schooling species?? Just curious.
 
jag51186 said:
I'm going to ask a question for my own curiosity lol. Would you still recommend this method in a cichlid situation, such as this?? Seeing as cichlids are very territorial and establish a pecking order, wouldn't it be best to add all the fish at once similar to a schooling species?? Just curious.
 
Yes, I agree.  I previously suggested that Richard get advice from the rift lake cichlid aquarists here, on the species and numbers.  I would hoep they include advice on this very point of adding all or select species the same time.
 
That was the idea behind my mentioning the bacterial supplement.  I don't know how many fish might go in initially, nor do I know the extent of the Vallisneria.
 
I've torn my tanks down several times, most recently to replace the fine gravel with play sand.  I have seven tanks, including a 70g, 90g and 115g, so this is quite a day's work for the larger tanks.  Replacing the substrate, and sometimes the filter media at the same time, is putting all your reliance on the plants.  Plus of course there will be some nitrifying bacteria on the chunks of wood that go from the old to the new tank without rinsing.  I've done this enough that I have a good idea what I can or maybe cannot get away with, which is when I sometimes (but certainly not always) decide to use the bacterial supplement.
 
Byron.
 

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