29 Gallon Build

[showjyr]

Got the concept, will have to buy a mid quality skimmer and see what i can do with it. Again any suggestions on a skimmer? I'm pretty lost on whats junk and whats good.

By threaded taps I assume you mean the type used for making threads in a hole so a bolt can be screwed in. If thats what you mean, then by all means yes.....I've got a few kicking around. Why?

Ok, before the hole saw I've got to figure out what size line and bulkheads I'll use. Any suggestion on a good quality pump so I can figure out my line sizes? I'm thinking about 300-400GPH through my sump should do and I'll make up the rest with a larger Koralia or maybe a closed loop.

Great site for PVC I'll probably be buying a lot of my stuff from them. Bookmarked it.

 

[SkiFletch]

Cause if you have a smaller tap (say 1/4" NPT thread) you can drill out the old small air-inlet, thread in a 1/4"x1/4" NPTxbarb fitting in there and get lots of extra airflow. Make sense? Doesn't have to be leak-free as it's on the inlet and underwater, just need the threads to help hold the barb in position. If you're gonna mod it, just about any cheap skimmer will work, tbh, I've read some good things about people modding the cheap CPR, or Jebo skimmers.

As for a pump to use, if you want 300GPH at around 4' of head (distance from top of water level in sump to top of water level in display), your best bet in the States would prolly be a Danner Mag 3. Marinedepot.com has some good prices on the danner line (under the powerhead section). Just remember, your overflow and the return pump need to be matched. Also keep in mind that 300GPH through the sump on a 20g tank is a LOT of turnover. Most people only use around 100-200gph for that size display tank

 

[showjyr]

Oh I see, didn't even think of that. Hate to say this with all the help you've given on moding one but I may just bite the bullet and buy a good one first time around. After all I'm spending $300 on a light why not just buy a skimmer that will get the job done well. What do you(or anyone else) recommend? Don't forget my total volume is only gonna be 30gal and it has to fit in a 10gal.

Maybe your right about moving that much water through the sump. I'll probably shoot for 150-200gph.

Lights: Are mine a good choice? Lights link Is there another in that price range that would be better?

 

[SkiFletch]

Hehe, lol no worries, maybe somebody else learned from it As for a good small skimmer that you can run in-sump, AquaC Remora, and the Tunze 9002 would give you the smallest footprint and still get the job done, while something like an ASM Mini-G or a Reef Octopus 110 would really get the job done, but might be a little oversized for your 10g tank. The bigger ones would clearly take up almoast the entire sump...

Edit: And as for the lights, that one works really well, although I've always been a little more fond of the Sunpod fixtures as far as smaller halides are concerned. Not as compact, but the LEDs are a nice feature

 

[chrissaysyes]

Hehe, lol no worries, maybe somebody else learned from it

Your efforts were not in vain, going to get to work on meshmodding my CPR next week

 

[showjyr]

Managed to track down both skimmers on Ebay. They think they are both designed as hang on skimmers and I assume I could just hang them in the sump, correct? Would the AquaC Remora fit in my 10gal? It says minimum tank depth is 12.75 inches.

I too like the Sunpod lights but have heard they can be a little noisy. As for having led's I'm thinking about running 2 cold cathodes, one blue, and one UV. It should really show off the colors with UV. My only concern with the Aqualight is that it is magnetic ballast. Do they get that much hotter and consume more power than electronic ballasts?
It's down to those two lights and I want to order tomorrow.


My list of stuff from Marine Depot:

Mag 2 pump
bulkheads (3/4 drain and 1/2 return)
flexible PVC (3/4 drain and 1/2 return)
Loc-line (1/2, Y adapter, 2-5 jet nozzles, screw in for bulkhead)
barbed inserts(1 for drain bulkhead, 1 for return bulkhead, 1 for mag pump to PVC)
Aqualight Advanced 150w or Sunpod 150w (undecided)
AquaC Remora or Remora Nano (if the first one will fit-bigger is better)

 

[SkiFletch]

Yeah, you could fit the remora inside or outside your sump, either way. The tunze is designed to go in-sump. And the coralife, although it's designed as an HOB, I'd never run it that way as they are a little notorious for going "nuts", overflowing, and spilling on your floor.

Both the Sunpod and the Aqualight are magnetic ballasted. In fact, all 150watt ballasts are magnetic. 175watt ballasts can be either magnetic OR electronic (as can 250s or 400s), but 150s are all magnetic. Magnetic ballasts get HOT! My dual 175watt magnetic ballast got so hot it burned my carpet . They also consume more energy to light the bulb. It's true that magnetics are less efficient than electronics, but they also drive the bulb a little more and give more light. Not enough to overcome the inefficiency though... In the low-wattage areas we hobbiests are concerned with, the efficiency difference between electronic and magnetic ballasted halides is probably negligable (so long as your electric costs are ~$0.10 to $0.13 per kWH). Magnetic vs electronic is really only a worry if you're thinking about going up to 400-1000watt halides or if you're gonna light a warehouse. Make sense?

Add to your parts list a checkvalve for the return side

 

[showjyr]

I ended up going with the Tunze Nano skimmer because of size, quality, design, and price. Hope it's turns out to be a good skimmer.

I already had the check valve in my cart but forgot to list it. I ordered everything on my list plus the check valve, different skimmer, and I went with the Aqualight advanced because of size and I like being able to adjust the height.

Now I just have to order 2 hole saws(different sizes), some black acrylic for my floating weir, go pick up a new 20gal and 10gal, and get some clear acrylic to make my refugium baffles .

I've already spent $575 and that was just at Marinedepot.com.

 

[SkiFletch]

Heh, not cheap is it. Make sure you're checking on craigslist for any and all of this stuff. I know Vermont may not be the most bustling of places, but you might find somebody sellin what you're lookin for nearby

 

[showjyr]

I'm on Craigslist all the time. That's where I found my currently up and running 55gal freshwater for cheap and made a great deal on a 155gal BF with custom built stand, sump, and every other little part.

My biggest challenge is going to be finding corals but as you said in the pm I may have to do some traveling or join a frag exchange. I checked out your local store and they've got some nice stuff.....guess I'll have to start fitting corals into my budget, they cost a small fortune.

 

[SkiFletch]

Heh, yeah they do. All the more reason to have a stable tank before you add them

 

[showjyr]

Hey while you're here now just thought I'd ask. Thinking back to when you said a 29 was a bear to aquascape did you mean because of the height?

On a side note are you getting dumped on yet? I think we're supposed to get hit pretty bad.

 

[SkiFletch]

Well, we got dumped on a bit last night... But now its raining. We're in the rain/snow alternating pattern here. Next cold snap though and I'm sure that lake's gonna open up and dump on our heads. Lake's still in the 40s

And yes, the 29 is a bear cause it is so much taller than it is wider. Think about trying to stack rocks... Hard to build a base with a small footprint

 

[showjyr]

Haha, lake effect snow! Glad I'm a good distance from any huge body of water.

Guess I'll stick with the 20 long then, darn.

Got another Q for you though. As I should be getting a router and table saw for Christmas it should be much easier to make my floating weir. Just wanted to know if you had any thoughts on the size, number/depth of teeth, when it comes time to make it? You know my flow/line size so was hoping you could shed some light.

 

[SkiFletch]

Well, for the lower flowrates you're talking about, you should really only worry about making the weir as big as it needs to be to house/hide the plumbing. As for teeth, what thickness of acrylic are you gonna be getting? The thicker stuff can have closer teeth, but the thin stuff can break easily if you make the teeth too close together.

Also, do you know the table saw trick to making teeth?