TEST DRIVING THE BIORB AND BIUBE

Dragonslair

Dragon.
Retired Moderator ⚒️
Joined
Jun 19, 2002
Messages
2,209
Reaction score
7
Location
Durham. England.
I have been doing some research with a fish centre which stock a number of different aquariums and livestock. I say livestock, simply because this centre is only one of a few that are licenced to sell some rare terrapins.(over £400.00 each!)
It also houses a large range of aquatica "stuff". So I asked the manager if I could "test drive" the BiOrb and BiUbe and find out the pros and cons.
There was no problem.
The two aquariums are designed for the beginner, or so the blurb leads you to believe. It comes complete with its own media and filter and lamp and if you go for the tropical version it's own special heater mount and 50W heater.
Sounds good so far. The two units are similar except for the shape. BiOrb as the name suggests is ORB shaped(round to you and me) and the BiUbe is TUBE shaped. It is lightweight.
Now to breakdown the individual components.
It is neither my intention to condone nor condemn these units. I will simply give you my own personal point of view and you, the reader must decide if if want to use them.
So once the unit is unboxed and all the parts are exposed, you simply put them together. The light which is a sealed 10W halogen unit, the air pump-a small sealed unit and the orb/ube and heater, the media, uplift tube and chemical/mechanical pack. It comes with clear easy to follow instructions.
The very first thing you notice about these units are that they are very light. The reason is because it is made of acrylic. This is the danger, the surface scratches quite easily and once filled with water you run the risk of the unit cracking/splitting if moved. The supplied media is of man made construction and is designed to look like small rocks. It has been designed to be the biological filtration, to house the beneficial bacteria, and therefore has a large surface area in a small area. Each piece of media is quite sharp, hence when you place the media in the units or taking them out, it must be done by hand and not tipped or scooped. The surface of the units would be badly scratched.
The chemical and mechanical part of the filtration is covered by a "service kit" that you buy every 4-6 weeks. Works out quite expensive. Inside this kit is about a tablespoonful of zeolite and a tablespoonful of carbon and a course sponge pad. Included also with the kit is a sachet of stress coat and stress zyme. (teaspoonful of each) but nicely packaged.
The idea of the filtration process is by uplift bubbles, like an undergravel system. In this instance, water is drawn through the media(stone lookalike) into the chemical/mechanical unit(service pack) and by means of air bubbles through an uplift tube the water is returned back into the unit. The blurb tells you that the biological part of the filtration(stones/media) is not cleaned and therefore the bacterial colonies don't get washed away.
What the instructions don't say is to clean and disinfect out all the equipment supplied before assembly otherwise you will introduce some nasties into the water.
It tells you after 24 hours you can introduce your first fish! :rofl:
Personally in my opinion this is not a unit that I would introduce to a beginner.
Whilst it might look, "cool" or "high-tech" in an executive office or a minimilist's house, it is nothing more than a glorified fish bowl.
I thought that we have moved on from those days, and we would treat our tankmates with a little more respect.
The units are designed for the purpose of keeping fish but at what cost, both to the keeper and to the fish themselves.
If you are going to spend that amount of money for either an orb/ube, i would suggest that you go for a traditional glass aquarium. They come in many shapes(not orb or tube shaped) but many other shapes and designs and are more robust for the first time fishkeeper.

If you have any questions I'll be happy to try and answer them for you. OR if you are an ORB/UBE owner you may want to let us know your experiences with these units and let us know if you feel that its suitable for a beginner.
 
I've never looked into these before as them seemed quite small, and, like you said, basically a glorified bowl. But I'm curious, how easy is to change out media, the lightbulb, to clean (vacuum gravel), feed the fish, etc. How many gallons are each supposed to hold? When you filled them, did that hold true? What is the actual size of one of them? All part of educating people on these products.
 
Quite a mouthful of questions there MAM!
I'll try and answer them. The media is messy to clean as you need to take out the fish and put them elsewhere. Then you need to grab handfuls of the media out and rinse them, put them aside until you clear it all out of the base-which is a small round flat plastic tray. Then you need to flush out the orb/ube until the rest of it is clean. Remember you can't just turn the orb on it's side to flush it out. Unlike a glass bowl that has some strength, with it being acrylic the sides will crush inwards and can crack. Once cleaned, the media must be hand fed back into the orb/ube. That is why the instructions tells you that the media does not need cleaning!
Changing the lightbulb is relatively simple. You need a cross-head screwdriver to undo the light holder on top of the light casing and pull out the old bulb and replace the new bulb. Remember with all halogen bulbs, you must never handle the bulb with bare hands, you need latex gloves.
The maximum water is 30 litres for the standard orb or 60 litres for the large orb. The 30 L is 320kg when filled. There is a 3 inch air space between the neck of the orb and the fill mark.
Max number of fish are 10 guppy sized fish once the full cycling process is completed.
 
Dragonslair said:
The 30 L is 320kg when filled.
hmmmm :p

Some conversions for you

30 Litres = 6.6 Imp Gallons - 7.7 US Gallons

60 liters = 13.21 Imp Gallons - 15 US Gallons

Jon
 
Dragonslair said:
I didn't weigh the unit Jon, just took it from the info. pack. B)
LOL, just pointing out the typo, hope they make tanks better than they proof read :) . And I thought the conversions would be useful to those accross the pond.

Jon
 

Most reactions

Back
Top