So Many Things Going Wrong!

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fluffycabbage

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ok brief rundown:
tank 1 - hospital tank
tank 2 - 80l tank
tank 3- 180l tank

yesterday transferred mr and mrs black molly to tank 3 after being in tank 1 for approx 1 month with unknwown condition which seems to have got better after various treatments.
today, betta in tank 2 developed white mouth. poss fungus? has spread quickly during day.
put salt and melafix in tank 2 (putting 5 juve corys in main tank to avoid salt)
yesterday 1 neon tetra in tank 2 dies, pale.
today found 1 neon dead on floor near tank. most neons appear pale in colour (red pale, blue paler than normal)

tank 3, female black molly develops shimmys, so moved her to 80l tank which is already salted. immediate improvement but notice pale whitish/blue spots all over body


Not sure what do to in tank 2 any more with sick betta, sick molly, sick neons..... (currently pimafix and salt in there)
 
have woken this morning to an almost dead betta (gonna put him out of his misery, he must be suffering), a dead panda cory, and some neons looking pale. molly still has strange spots all over. back into the hospital tank.
(and all this on my birthday :-( )

water stats amm 0 nitrite 0 nitrate 2.5 ph 7.5 oxygen fine temp 25c
 
I'm interested as to why your nitrates are so low. Generally speaking, nitrates should be between 5-20ppm, depending on how heavily planted your tank is. I've only heard of nitrates being below 5ppm when a tank is VERY heavily planted (almost more plants than fish).

In my experience, the white spots you're describing sound suspiciously like ich, especially when combined with her "shimmys" (sounds like flashing). Do the spots look like someone sprinkled table salt on the fish? The easiest and most efficient way to treat ich is to gradually crank the heat up on the affected tank (assume that if one fish in the tank has it, the others do too, it just isn't manifesting yet) and leave it there for two weeks. During the first week, do every other day 15% water changes, vacuuming the substrate EXTREMELY well. The heat causes the ich spores to detach from your fish and fall to the substrate, where they lie in wait to infect another fish (or the same one). The gravel vacuuming every other day will remove any ich spores laying on the gravel, preventing re-infection. The second week of raised temperature is to make sure the ich is completely gone. Ich cannot survive in temperatures greater than about 82F. When you raise the temperature, make sure to provide extra aeration (via an air stone or by lowering the water level in the tank so that the waterfall of the filter disrupts the surface more and releases more oxygen), as higher heat decreases the oxygen content of the water.

Neons pale in color when they are stressed. I've only ever heard of neons trying to escape a tank because the ammonia levels were too high.
 
sounds like neon tetra disease to me for the neon's to me
i don't think there is a cure for that
if you have that many fish ill i would look for
what is causing it it looks like its something that cant
be detected by water testing
 
well spotted i to would like to know how
low you get the nitrates that low in a mature
tank it sounds like the filter is not working properly
 
i dont know why theyre that low, theyre the same in the main tank, both planted but not heavily.
im beginning to wonder if i need to buy some fresh testing kits.

here are pics of mr B over 24hrs, and the molly currently.

P1050522.jpg

P1050640.jpg

P1050664.jpg


P1050663.jpg
 
i dont know why theyre that low, theyre the same in the main tank, both planted but not heavily.
im beginning to wonder if i need to buy some fresh testing kits.

here are pics of mr B over 24hrs, and the molly currently.

P1050522.jpg

P1050640.jpg

P1050664.jpg


P1050663.jpg


i would say the last one is white spot but as for the others i am stumped
i would of said mouth fungus but for it to spread like that i don't know
what are you using to test your water with not strips i hope
 
we had whitespot a long time ago, and its nothing like that was, unless there are different types?

it looks like mouthrot doesnt it but it spread and basically killed him in 24hrs, so i guess viral/bacterial. just concerned for the other fish now.
 
we had whitespot a long time ago, and its nothing like that was, unless there are different types?

it looks like mouthrot doesnt it but it spread and basically killed him in 24hrs, so i guess viral/bacterial. just concerned for the other fish now.


Oh im using salifert liquid tests. :good:
 
good test kits are they in date
i have had them go out of date
and produce a wrong test before today
 
Looks like a bad strain of columanris to me.

How big are the spots.
Do they look a greyish white with a red centre. Or a circling of red on the outside of the spot.
Fish can get columnaris spots.
 
Looks like columnaris to me. But need to know the size of the spots.

Columnaris can also show itself on the mouth, cheeks, head region. A bad strain will sort to rot the face away.
http://www.flippersandfins.net/flexibacter.htm

http://www.articledepot.co.uk/article-29320.htm
 
do you mean on the molly wilder? theyre a bit bigger than whitespot spots, and seem to be getting a slightly fluffy appearance.
ive read the articles, thanks. whats odd is that with the betta i was treating with myxazin for 5 days because i noticed a slightly white patch on his side after adding some pygmy cories. i can only assume its come from there, and that maybe the net was contaminated or something coz the mollies were still in the hospital tank then, not in the 80l.

aargh. crisis or what? im wondering if i should treat both tanks even though i cant see any evidence of it in the 180l yet??

i dont have any myxazin left, but i do have some eSHa 2000 fungus finrot and bacteria treatment - would that work or am i better off using interpret?
 

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