ro water?

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pomme

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i have just got my ro unit and attached it to the hma and it is sort of hissing?

does it always do this or is it letting out of the gas?

also is it best to discard the first few gallons that it makes?
 
Its probably just an air lock that should go in a few hours. I would run the first 5 gallons to waste.
 
I'm hoping what you have is in fact ro/di? If not, you really need to add a di stage to your system or you are going to end up with a lot of algae.
 
yeah i think it is, what you mean by the di bit?

mine has a three stage pod, with i think 2 pods which take out the bits of different sizes, and then a carbon pod. is this alright?
 
DI -- deionization -- filters are normally comprised of a color changing resin that turns from black to rust colored when exhausted. It is the final stage and for reef tanks the most important filtration stage. Many use ONLY DI for their water, however, the fairly pricey cartridges last much longer if you use RO first, and that is why most use RO/DI units. You don't want DI for drinking, but you do for your tank. Do some research and make sure you have DI, if not add a DI stage to your system, it's fairly straightforward and whoever sold you your unit should make that possible, or even swap the whole thing for you.
 
I don't know. I can't figure out that site at all and in any case don't see a model that conforms to what you typed (typos maybe??) Unless it is this one:
http://www.devotedly-discus.co.uk/our_filt...dhma80_spec.htm

If so, then no, it will not work. You need to get TDS to zero, and this says "will not affect TDS".

If you don't have a TDS meter, get one and fill a cup of water and make sure it tests at zero.

Even then, you may want to post the link to the exact filter you got and ask in one of those forums. I'm skeptical because that is a freshwater fish site, and that could mean what they are selling might not work for you.

But "Zero TDS is zero TDS" is the slogan at reefcentral.com, so if your water tests 0 tds then you should be fine.
 

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