Questions About Planted Tank

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Hoopla

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I know I posted about my stocking questions just a few topics down but I also have questions on planted aquariums. So, when I decided I wanted fish I did a ton of research on the fish and not much on the plants.. I recieved a tank with all the old gravel substrate and thought the plants would do just fine with it in there... I now wish I would have just replaced the substrate with something more suitable, especially since I have Cory cats that like to dig around.
KdGmA5u.jpg

Here is a pic of my tank as of now! I am dosing the water with Co2, Iron, and plant nutrients but my Corys are sensitive to Co2 dosing so I think it might be better to put new substrate in? Since my tank is all set up it would be a task.. so how would you all go about fixing this problem? Should I start cycling a 10 gallon to transfer the fish to while I work on the big tank? Is there any way at to add substrate to a tank without having to take out water or remove fish? Should I just stick with what I have? (It also might be good to note that I'm on a budget for a while since I spent a lot starting the tank)
 
I have changed the substrate in my tanks several times (varying tanks). It is a lot of work but not impossible, and as you mention cories you definitely should change to sand. Cories need to sift the substrate through their gills, and this is not possible with gravel. Gravel (even non-sharp gravel) is also harder on their mouths and barbels.

Play Sand is the least expensive but most ideal substrate you can get. One bag (25kg) will easily do this tank, with some to spare. I dond't know where you are, but in NA both Lowe's and Home Depot carry Quikrete Play Sand (I use this). Whatever you get, do not get white (bad for fish) but dark; most play sand is a mix of black/buff/grey/white or similar.

It is better to move the fish out to a temporary tank; this means you will not be rushed, and not worrying about the fish. Pulling out the gravel means uprooting the plants and removing the decor, and all this will make a considerable mess. I've always removed the fish.

Briefly, this is how to do it. Siphon water from the existing tank (you can do a partial water change first, this helps) to fill the temporary. It is better to have some substrate in the 10g; a 1/2 inch layer of the play sand is fine. Move the decor to the 10g (just place it in, no need to aquascape), and lay the plants on the surface. You should be able to move the filter over, and maybe the heater--just be careful of the heater as in a smaller tank they can sometimes overheat the water. Net over the fish. Now the 10g should be fine to run for the day, or overnight if needed; this is the advantage of a temp tank.

Drain the main tank completely, then scoop out the gravel (I usually toss this out into the back garden as if I am removing it I won't want it again for fish). Clean the tank glass inside. Rinse the play sand (this is admittedly the worst part of this task) in batches and dump it in the empty tank. When you have it done, do the aquascaping with the hard decor. Add a few inches (6 or so) of fresh water, plant the plants, then drain out the water (it will be impossible to see through after all this). When ready to fill with fresh water, run it into a bowl or similar object on the sand to avoid stirring it up more. If you do any re-acquacaping it may dirty the water again, so you can drain it and refill. When satisfied, add conditioner. Move the filter and heater back. If all is OK, I do a 50% partial water change on the temporary tank now, to get the fish acclimated to the new tank water. Sometimes I just net the fish over, sometimes I net them in to a bucket of half tank water, and fill it from the new tank, then net them into the new tank. This depends upon the species, and assumes your parameters will be close.

On the plant nutrients...is the CO2 diffused CO2, or a liquid carbon supplement? And what is the iron and plant nutrients brand? I may have comments when I know; not all of these products are at all "safe" for fish.

One thing I would recommend for those beautiful sword plants...substrate fertilizer tabs. I use Seachem's Flourish Tabs, and they are remarkable. This might even remove the need for liquid additives which is better for the fish.

Byron.
 
I have changed the substrate in my tanks several times (varying tanks). It is a lot of work but not impossible, and as you mention cories you definitely should change to sand. Cories need to sift the substrate through their gills, and this is not possible with gravel. Gravel (even non-sharp gravel) is also harder on their mouths and barbels.

Play Sand is the least expensive but most ideal substrate you can get. One bag (25kg) will easily do this tank, with some to spare. I dond't know where you are, but in NA both Lowe's and Home Depot carry Quikrete Play Sand (I use this). Whatever you get, do not get white (bad for fish) but dark; most play sand is a mix of black/buff/grey/white or similar.

It is better to move the fish out to a temporary tank; this means you will not be rushed, and not worrying about the fish. Pulling out the gravel means uprooting the plants and removing the decor, and all this will make a considerable mess. I've always removed the fish.

Briefly, this is how to do it. Siphon water from the existing tank (you can do a partial water change first, this helps) to fill the temporary. It is better to have some substrate in the 10g; a 1/2 inch layer of the play sand is fine. Move the decor to the 10g (just place it in, no need to aquascape), and lay the plants on the surface. You should be able to move the filter over, and maybe the heater--just be careful of the heater as in a smaller tank they can sometimes overheat the water. Net over the fish. Now the 10g should be fine to run for the day, or overnight if needed; this is the advantage of a temp tank.

Drain the main tank completely, then scoop out the gravel (I usually toss this out into the back garden as if I am removing it I won't want it again for fish). Clean the tank glass inside. Rinse the play sand (this is admittedly the worst part of this task) in batches and dump it in the empty tank. When you have it done, do the aquascaping with the hard decor. Add a few inches (6 or so) of fresh water, plant the plants, then drain out the water (it will be impossible to see through after all this). When ready to fill with fresh water, run it into a bowl or similar object on the sand to avoid stirring it up more. If you do any re-acquacaping it may dirty the water again, so you can drain it and refill. When satisfied, add conditioner. Move the filter and heater back. If all is OK, I do a 50% partial water change on the temporary tank now, to get the fish acclimated to the new tank water. Sometimes I just net the fish over, sometimes I net them in to a bucket of half tank water, and fill it from the new tank, then net them into the new tank. This depends upon the species, and assumes your parameters will be close.

On the plant nutrients...is the CO2 diffused CO2, or a liquid carbon supplement? And what is the iron and plant nutrients brand? I may have comments when I know; not all of these products are at all "safe" for fish.

One thing I would recommend for those beautiful sword plants...substrate fertilizer tabs. I use Seachem's Flourish Tabs, and they are remarkable. This might even remove the need for liquid additives which is better for the fish.

Byron.
First of all, thank you so much for this info.. I'm glad to know I wouldn't have to cycle a 10 gallon and delay the process further. I am using liquid Co2- Seachem brand. Same for the iron and nutrients. Would I need to use the Seachem flourite substrate? Or would just sand and the flourish tabs work? Would I need to add anything Co2 wise?

I think I want a dark sand anyways, it looks nicer in my opinion. I would have to go purchase a 10 gallon which is fine because they sell them at Walmart for $15 and after this I could use it as a QT tank or a new betta tank.

Also, I know that this is a bit off topic but with the sand, can you clean the tank with the gravel vac or will it suck up the sand too much? I may want to add some carpet plants also.. what do you recommend? Also any cheapish light options? I don't think mine is strong enough, I'm not sure what's it is because I got it with the tank so I don't have packaging
 
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I'll take your questions in reverse order as the first is the longest explanation. :-(

Also, I know that this is a bit off topic but with the sand, can you clean the tank with the gravel vac or will it suck up the sand too much? I may want to add some carpet plants also.. what do you recommend? Also any cheapish light options? I don't think mine is strong enough, I'm not sure what's it is because I got it with the tank so I don't have packaging

I don't usually touch the sand, though it is possible to run the water changer just above the surface if there is a lot of detritus. But organics in the sand (all the fish excrement, uneaten food, plant matter) is your prime source of nutrients particularly CO2 (I'll come back to this) so it is best to leave it alone. Under wood, rock or decor there will be dead spots, but these should be left alone as you also need de-nitrification for a healthy aquarium.

The light is a big topic...is it tube, bulbs (screw-in) or LED? If tubes or bulb, is anything printed on the tube/bulb itself? How many of each?

Carpet plants can be tricky. With cories, you want open areas anyway so they can dig into the sand (they love this, seeing them upended with their heads half buried and sand flying out the gills is fun). I use chain sword or pygmy chain sword for some smallish substrate plants, though not true carpet plants. I'll attach a photo of my 40g flooded Amazon forest tank with the chain swords, one large sword, and lots of floating plants. Floaters are necessary to dim the light (these are all forest fish) and they are very fast growing so they use a lot of nutrients and are "ammonia sinks."

I think I want a dark sand anyways, it looks nicer in my opinion. I would have to go purchase a 10 gallon which is fine because they sell them at Walmart for $15 and after this I could use it as a QT tank or a new betta tank.

The play sand |I use is quite dark dry, but under water and the tank lighting it lightens. But that is OK...fish do not feel comfortable over white. I tried black once, but it was terrible; every speck of stuff showed up, and it was a very
dark grey anyway. The play sand is very similar in appearance to sands in the Amazon.

It is good to have a 10g spare.

I am using liquid Co2- Seachem brand. Same for the iron and nutrients. Would I need to use the Seachem flourite substrate? Or would just sand and the flourish tabs work? Would I need to add anything Co2 wise?

First, stop using Flourish Excel (the so-called liquid carbon). This is glutaraldehyde, a highly toxic disinfectant [read here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glutaraldehyde and this is only part of the story]. It will kill some plants outright; it can kill algae if overdosed (deliberately), but it also kills bacteria, and if strong enough, all life forms. There is no reasonable need to put this in a tank with fish. Everything added to the water, from conditioner to plant additives to medications, etc, gets inside the fish naturally, into the bloodstream and internal organs. What manufacturers say is "safe" is not. Just because the fish don't turn belly up doesn't mean they are not being affected, and this substance is deadly toxic.

CO2 is not something normally needed anyway. The decomposition of organics primarily in the substrate produces a fair bit, along with fish and plant (and some bacteria) respiration. The key is to balance this with light and plant species that are suited to the light. Light intensity drives photosynthesis, provided the 17 nutrients are present in sufficient quantity. My tanks are fairly well planted, and I have moderate lighting so 7 or 8 hours a day is max for the light before the CO2 becomes depleted to the degree that algae can take advantage.

I tried Flourite substrate, no good. And it is very sharp, too sharp for cories (I had to remove mine, with serious problems, they did recover over sand). The substrate tabs for the large swords do make a big difference.

We need to know your GH, KH and pH of the source water, presumably tap. These you should be able to get from the water authority,m check their website. Aside from the fish issues particularly with GH, this is one source of minerals for plants.

Byron.
 

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I'll take your questions in reverse order as the first is the longest explanation. :-(



I don't usually touch the sand, though it is possible to run the water changer just above the surface if there is a lot of detritus. But organics in the sand (all the fish excrement, uneaten food, plant matter) is your prime source of nutrients particularly CO2 (I'll come back to this) so it is best to leave it alone. Under wood, rock or decor there will be dead spots, but these should be left alone as you also need de-nitrification for a healthy aquarium.

The light is a big topic...is it tube, bulbs (screw-in) or LED? If tubes or bulb, is anything printed on the tube/bulb itself? How many of each?

Carpet plants can be tricky. With cories, you want open areas anyway so they can dig into the sand (they love this, seeing them upended with their heads half buried and sand flying out the gills is fun). I use chain sword or pygmy chain sword for some smallish substrate plants, though not true carpet plants. I'll attach a photo of my 40g flooded Amazon forest tank with the chain swords, one large sword, and lots of floating plants. Floaters are necessary to dim the light (these are all forest fish) and they are very fast growing so they use a lot of nutrients and are "ammonia sinks."



The play sand |I use is quite dark dry, but under water and the tank lighting it lightens. But that is OK...fish do not feel comfortable over white. I tried black once, but it was terrible; every speck of stuff showed up, and it was a very
dark grey anyway. The play sand is very similar in appearance to sands in the Amazon.

It is good to have a 10g spare.



First, stop using Flourish Excel (the so-called liquid carbon). This is glutaraldehyde, a highly toxic disinfectant [read here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glutaraldehyde and this is only part of the story]. It will kill some plants outright; it can kill algae if overdosed (deliberately), but it also kills bacteria, and if strong enough, all life forms. There is no reasonable need to put this in a tank with fish. Everything added to the water, from conditioner to plant additives to medications, etc, gets inside the fish naturally, into the bloodstream and internal organs. What manufacturers say is "safe" is not. Just because the fish don't turn belly up doesn't mean they are not being affected, and this substance is deadly toxic.

CO2 is not something normally needed anyway. The decomposition of organics primarily in the substrate produces a fair bit, along with fish and plant (and some bacteria) respiration. The key is to balance this with light and plant species that are suited to the light. Light intensity drives photosynthesis, provided the 17 nutrients are present in sufficient quantity. My tanks are fairly well planted, and I have moderate lighting so 7 or 8 hours a day is max for the light before the CO2 becomes depleted to the degree that algae can take advantage.

I tried Flourite substrate, no good. And it is very sharp, too sharp for cories (I had to remove mine, with serious problems, they did recover over sand). The substrate tabs for the large swords do make a big difference.

We need to know your GH, KH and pH of the source water, presumably tap. These you should be able to get from the water authority,m check their website. Aside from the fish issues particularly with GH, this is one source of minerals for plants.

Byron.

I couldn't find the GH or KH anywhere online... I tested the pH of the tap water and it is around 7.6-7.8 after sitting overnight. I've attatches a picture of the label on the tube light... I only have one
 

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I couldn't find the GH or KH anywhere online... I tested the pH of the tap water and it is around 7.6-7.8 after sitting overnight. I've attatches a picture of the label on the tube light... I only have one

Good, the light is easy to deal with. You want a Life-Glo T8 tube that is the length of the present tube. Make sure it is T8 [not T5 which will not fit]. You can get the Hagen "Glo" tubes in many fish stores, or online. The Life-Glo is ideal for planted freshwater tanks. It is the strongest light you can get in T8 tubes, and it is exactly the best spectrum. I assume this is the 29g tank mentioned in your other thread, so the tube is probably a 24-inch (measure it, or take it with you). I have this (one 24-inch T8 Life-glo) over each of my two 29g tanks. It is minimal light, but workable. My swords are fine.

As for GH, call your municipal water people. They should be able to tell you. Or you can take a sample of your tap water to a reliable fish store to test for GH and KH. If you do, insist they give you the test number, not some vague "moderate soft" or similar, this means nothing.

Byron.
 
Good, the light is easy to deal with. You want a Life-Glo T8 tube that is the length of the present tube. Make sure it is T8 [not T5 which will not fit]. You can get the Hagen "Glo" tubes in many fish stores, or online. The Life-Glo is ideal for planted freshwater tanks. It is the strongest light you can get in T8 tubes, and it is exactly the best spectrum. I assume this is the 29g tank mentioned in your other thread, so the tube is probably a 24-inch (measure it, or take it with you). I have this (one 24-inch T8 Life-glo) over each of my two 29g tanks. It is minimal light, but workable. My swords are fine.

As for GH, call your municipal water people. They should be able to tell you. Or you can take a sample of your tap water to a reliable fish store to test for GH and KH. If you do, insist they give you the test number, not some vague "moderate soft" or similar, this means nothing.

Byron.


Woo school has been really kickng my butt... I did manage to switch to sand substrate!
J2K4S62.jpg

The water is still a bit cloudy from the change and the glare is bad so sorry about that. It took 6+ hours to do it unfortunately I think I'll have to do it over. In a heat of the moment decision I thought I would add potting soil underneath the sand. Well it turns out the soil I had had lots of wood in it. It floated to the top of the water and on top of the sand, making it look dirty. So that really sucks. But on a good note, my corys do seem to love the new sand! My family says I should just keep the tank like this but it looks so ugly to me that's im willing to put in the extra work.

Thank you for all your help!
 
I rather like that as it is. The plants will fill in and be very natural. You might look for some floating plants to complete it.

The light, is that a Life-Glo tube? It looks reddish.

One issue with soil is high ammonia, very high, during the first few months. If you pH remains acidic (below 7) ammonia changes into basically harmless ammonium, but if the pH is above 7, be vigilant.
 
I rather like that as it is. The plants will fill in and be very natural. You might look for some floating plants to complete it.

The light, is that a Life-Glo tube? It looks reddish.

One issue with soil is high ammonia, very high, during the first few months. If you pH remains acidic (below 7) ammonia changes into basically harmless ammonium, but if the pH is above 7, be vigilant.

I've been thinking about floating plants but im afraid they will get in the way of tank maintanence. I actually had to get an aqua-glo tube because no shop in my town carries life-glo. I do still want to try to find that light. The light itself is not red at all, the pic makes it look that's way and the sand kind of reflects the light to look reddish if that makes sense. I still think I want to redo it because it looks dirty to me
 
I've been thinking about floating plants but im afraid they will get in the way of tank maintanence. I actually had to get an aqua-glo tube because no shop in my town carries life-glo. I do still want to try to find that light. The light itself is not red at all, the pic makes it look that's way and the sand kind of reflects the light to look reddish if that makes sense. I still think I want to redo it because it looks dirty to me

OK, on the light...can you take the tube back? It will not work, the plants will weaken and may even die. Aqua-Glo is about half the intensity of the same size Life-Glo, and is high in the red and blue wavelengths but has no green. This does turn the tank a reddish-purplish, no matter what else. I know, I've used them, and similar. Do you still have the light in photo 1? It would likely be better for now. Life-Glo can be bought online for less, depending where you are. I just received a shipment of 8 LG tubes for half the price in stores, even with the minimal shipping. This gives me two years of lighting for the tanks that take these 24-inch tubes.

Floating plants that are substantial are essential, frankly, for the fish we keep that all come from rather dim waters and "expect|" floating plants or overhanging marginal vegetation (which floating plants replicate nicely). You want something like Water Sprite, as opposed to the tiny floaters like duckweed which is indeed a mess. I have Water Sprite, and Water Lettuce, and Frogbit. Water Sprite is my favourite, and the best floater. The dangling roots provide food (microscopic critters) for fish, and hiding places for some including fry. Plus they use a lot of nutrients, helping with water quality.

What do you mean by "redo" it?

Byron.
 
OK, on the light...can you take the tube back? It will not work, the plants will weaken and may even die. Aqua-Glo is about half the intensity of the same size Life-Glo, and is high in the red and blue wavelengths but has no green. This does turn the tank a reddish-purplish, no matter what else. I know, I've used them, and similar. Do you still have the light in photo 1? It would likely be better for now. Life-Glo can be bought online for less, depending where you are. I just received a shipment of 8 LG tubes for half the price in stores, even with the minimal shipping. This gives me two years of lighting for the tanks that take these 24-inch tubes.

Floating plants that are substantial are essential, frankly, for the fish we keep that all come from rather dim waters and "expect|" floating plants or overhanging marginal vegetation (which floating plants replicate nicely). You want something like Water Sprite, as opposed to the tiny floaters like duckweed which is indeed a mess. I have Water Sprite, and Water Lettuce, and Frogbit. Water Sprite is my favourite, and the best floater. The dangling roots provide food (microscopic critters) for fish, and hiding places for some including fry. Plus they use a lot of nutrients, helping with water quality.

What do you mean by "redo" it?

Byron.

No I can't return the bulb but I will order the Life-Glo tube online. It sucks and puts me out some money but I can't do anything else about it. I've already been using the tube for about a week. I'll put the coral tube back in for now.

I mean I will probably be taking the substrate out again and replacing it with just sand, if I can't get the soil to stop resurfacing. I've been gravel vaccing every day just to get rid of the top layer of soil that keeps getting on top of the sand.
 
No I can't return the bulb but I will order the Life-Glo tube online. It sucks and puts me out some money but I can't do anything else about it. I've already been using the tube for about a week. I'll put the coral tube back in for now.

I mean I will probably be taking the substrate out again and replacing it with just sand, if I can't get the soil to stop resurfacing. I've been gravel vaccing every day just to get rid of the top layer of soil that keeps getting on top of the sand.

I don't know your store, but if you could exchange the Aqua-Glo for a Life-Glo they might do it if they get some LG. If they carry the AG they might normally have the others in the series. The Life-Glo is the only one really useful, I have tried all of them.

As for the soil issue...this is what often occurs. One way to avoid this (allegedly, I've never tried soil but have read this) is to use the dry method (or is it wet method?) I won't try to explain it, as frankly I cannot remember, but several authors do recommend it. No fish go in the tank for six months, which allows the ammonia and other issues to settle out without risking fish.

It also matters what the "soil" actually is. Some of the preparations people use can be loaded with nutrients which are helpful in a garden but frankly quite deadly in an aquarium. Anything in the soil leeches into the water, and nutrients for terrestrial plants are not the same as for aquatic plants.

Soil is the one substrate I have never even considered doing, and I doubt I ever will, due to the risks and the lack of benefit. The only benefit to soil is immediate CO2 (occurring from the organics in the soil decomposing); with inert substrates (sand or gravel) it takes a few months for the organic load in the substrate (from fish excrement mainly) to reach the level of soil initially, but aside from this there is no benefit, and some risks as I said. The nutrient value of soil is exhausted by one year. Diana Walstad, who basically introduced the aquarium world to soil substrates, admits in her book and articles that after one year, any inert substrate will be comparable to soil (considering nutrient value), and the soil after that has to be replaced to maintain its effectiveness. So, I ask, why bother?

The sand and soil will mix in time, and could be quite messy. May not be safe for cories either, thinking of the bacterial issues that soil could harbour.

Byron.
 
I don't know your store, but if you could exchange the Aqua-Glo for a Life-Glo they might do it if they get some LG. If they carry the AG they might normally have the others in the series. The Life-Glo is the only one really useful, I have tried all of them.

As for the soil issue...this is what often occurs. One way to avoid this (allegedly, I've never tried soil but have read this) is to use the dry method (or is it wet method?) I won't try to explain it, as frankly I cannot remember, but several authors do recommend it. No fish go in the tank for six months, which allows the ammonia and other issues to settle out without risking fish.

It also matters what the "soil" actually is. Some of the preparations people use can be loaded with nutrients which are helpful in a garden but frankly quite deadly in an aquarium. Anything in the soil leeches into the water, and nutrients for terrestrial plants are not the same as for aquatic plants.

Soil is the one substrate I have never even considered doing, and I doubt I ever will, due to the risks and the lack of benefit. The only benefit to soil is immediate CO2 (occurring from the organics in the soil decomposing); with inert substrates (sand or gravel) it takes a few months for the organic load in the substrate (from fish excrement mainly) to reach the level of soil initially, but aside from this there is no benefit, and some risks as I said. The nutrient value of soil is exhausted by one year. Diana Walstad, who basically introduced the aquarium world to soil substrates, admits in her book and articles that after one year, any inert substrate will be comparable to soil (considering nutrient value), and the soil after that has to be replaced to maintain its effectiveness. So, I ask, why bother?

The sand and soil will mix in time, and could be quite messy. May not be safe for cories either, thinking of the bacterial issues that soil could harbour.

Byron.

In that case I will definetly be redoing the tank and just using sand. I shouldn't have put the soil in the tank on an impulse but I guess we all make mistakes. I'm just going to order the bulb on Amazon because they don't sell it at the shop I got the aqua glo at. Thank you for all your help
 
In that case I will definetly be redoing the tank and just using sand. I shouldn't have put the soil in the tank on an impulse but I guess we all make mistakes. I'm just going to order the bulb on Amazon because they don't sell it at the shop I got the aqua glo at. Thank you for all your help

You're very welcome. I suspect you're not finished yet.

Several years ago on another forum, I was convinced to try sand, and now I have play sand in all my tanks (and today wouldn't have anything else). After this, a couple of members convinced me to try an enriched substrate, claiming it would do this and that, blah, blah. So I gave in. Terrible mistake. After two years, I tore it up and replaced it with play sand. Plants grew no better with the expensive stuff, and it was sharp and damaged my cories (they recovered over sand). Then I was pressured into doing soil, but I resisted. I did however read a lot, got Diana's book, joined her forum, etc, but nothing convinced me it would be any better so I held firm.

We tend to forget just how sensitive an aquarium is to processes of biology and chemistry. What works in nature in a basically endless space (compared to an aquarium) will frequently spawn a number of serious issues within the closed confines of even the largest aquarium. The less we interfere, the less can go wrong. I have 8 tanks in my fish room now, and even with basically identical factors (plants, substrate, filtration, lighting, fish load) it is sometimes amazing just how different the tanks run biologically.

Byron.
 
You're very welcome. I suspect you're not finished yet.

Several years ago on another forum, I was convinced to try sand, and now I have play sand in all my tanks (and today wouldn't have anything else). After this, a couple of members convinced me to try an enriched substrate, claiming it would do this and that, blah, blah. So I gave in. Terrible mistake. After two years, I tore it up and replaced it with play sand. Plants grew no better with the expensive stuff, and it was sharp and damaged my cories (they recovered over sand). Then I was pressured into doing soil, but I resisted. I did however read a lot, got Diana's book, joined her forum, etc, but nothing convinced me it would be any better so I held firm.

We tend to forget just how sensitive an aquarium is to processes of biology and chemistry. What works in nature in a basically endless space (compared to an aquarium) will frequently spawn a number of serious issues within the closed confines of even the largest aquarium. The less we interfere, the less can go wrong. I have 8 tanks in my fish room now, and even with basically identical factors (plants, substrate, filtration, lighting, fish load) it is sometimes amazing just how different the tanks run biologically.

Byron.

I had a free day today so I went ahead and did the whole process of replacing the substrate again, this time with just sand! It was a lot of hard work but I'm so happy I did it. The tank is just how I envisioned it to be! The water is still a bit cloudy from the sand but here's a pic:
qR0kXkk.jpg

I ordered the life-glo bulb online so that should be here in a few days! I also rinsed my filter (in tank water if course) and cleaned the mechanisms, so now my filter us running much better than it was before. I know I didn't mention this but I was worried I might have to get a new one!

Thank you so much for your help, I couldn't have done it without you! I'm in love with my tank, and I'm pretty proud since it is my first one :) My corys also seem to like it, they have been rooting around in the sand a lot! I've learned so much and I can't wait to begin my next project already... rescaping my brother's newt tank.
 
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